Phlox care in autumn
Unpretentious and unpretentious phloxes can grow without any care and attention from the gardener. However, they are able to reveal their decorative qualities as much as possible only if there is appropriate competent care, one of the most important conditions of which is the autumn preparatory measures.
Features of wintering phlox
Phloxes are quite cold-resistant and survive cold snaps up to -15 ...- 20 ° C without losses. If there is a snow cover with a height of about half a meter, then they are not afraid of frosts down to -35 ° C. In the southern regions, this flower culture hibernates without any shelter, but in the north it is worth taking care of its insulation, otherwise the bushes will freeze out.
Optimal timing of work on the preparation of phlox for the winter
Preparatory work begins approximately 2-3 weeks before the arrival of the real winter frosts. Specific dates are determined by weather and local climatic conditions... Our country is quite large and the climate on its territory is significantly different, therefore, phlox preparation is carried out at different times before winter:
- in the northern latitudes, considered a zone of risky farming, it is necessary to deal with flower beds before the beginning of October;
- the milder continental climate of the middle zone allows work to be carried out a little later - until the third October decade;
- The warm autumn of the southern regions allows postponing of leaving measures until November.
Late varieties of phlox bloom before cold weather, but care for them must be completed earlier
Root zone processing
By and large, autumn care should be started immediately after flowering ends. The soil in the flowerbed is kept in order, weeds are constantly weeded out and the surface layer is loosened in order to improve air access to the roots. Since the root system of phlox is very superficial, it is necessary to dig up no deeper than 2-3 cm... A 3–4 cm layer of mulch (from mowed grass, humus, straw, etc.) will protect against the formation of a hard earth crust.
In case of dry autumn weather, phloxes must be watered, spending about 18–20 liters for each m2... If there is enough natural precipitation, then there is no need to additionally moisten the plantings. Excess moisture can lead to the development of putrefactive infections. After each watering, the soil under the bushes is loosened a little.
In order for the plant to gain strength for wintering, it must be fed... At the end of the season, exclusively phosphorus-potassium compounds are used, which contribute to the better development of the root system. Such fertilizers are suitable (per 1 m2):
- superphosphate (30–35 g) and potassium sulfate (15–20 g) or wood ash (100–150 g);
- potassium monophosphate (34-40 g);
- any special autumn complex with a minimum nitrogen content.
Fertilizers without nitrogen are used in autumn.
Dry granules are evenly scattered over the previously well-moistened soil, and then carefully covered with a rake.
In autumn, nitrogen-containing fertilizing should not be used, as this can provoke unnecessary growth of the aboveground green mass.
Autumn pruning technology
Phloxes are perennials, but their shoots die off with the arrival of cold weather. Leaving the stems until spring is not recommended, since fungal spores persist on them and insect pests settle in for the winter. Pruning is done in two ways:
- Under the very root, leaving hemp no more than 1–2 cm. In this case, the risk of further spread of diseases and pest infestation is minimal.
- Pruned to about 10–20 cm. The remaining stems are believed to contribute to snow retention. But pathogens and insect larvae can remain on them.
I always cut phlox to the ground. There is already enough snow in Siberia, so there is absolutely no need to leave protruding stems. I must burn the cut plant material in order to prevent the spread of dangerous pathologies.
Most often phloxes are cut to the ground, leaving hemp no higher than 1–2 cm
Treatment of phlox in the fall from diseases and pests
Preventive treatment is carried out after pruning, and not only the remaining stems are sprayed, but also the ground around them. You can use one of the following tools:
- Bordeaux liquid (3%);
- copper chloride (1%);
- Fitosporin-M - 5 g per 10 liters;
- Fundazole - 10 g per 10 liters.
Treatment with fungicidal preparations should be carried out at an air temperature of about +16 ... + 18 ° C, otherwise these agents will be ineffective.
Shelter phlox for the winter
In a warm climate, for successful wintering, phloxes need a layer of mulch (10-12 cm) of dry foliage, humus, needles, peat, etc. .). Warming measures are carried out with the onset of a stable cold snap with sub-zero temperatures.
In the south, it is enough to mulch phloxes for the winter
You can not use polyethylene or roofing felt to insulate a flower bed, since the root system of plants can be blown out by a sudden thaw.
Video: autumn care for phlox
Competent and timely autumn preparation of phloxes will serve as a guarantee of their successful wintering and subsequent lush flowering.
Stages of autumn care
The timing of the autumn events depends on the climate and when determining them, you need to focus on the weather conditions. Caring for phlox in the fall can be divided into successive stages:
- late September - early October - preventive treatment of plants and soil against fungal infections and crop pests
- after 1.5-2 weeks - the introduction of complex dressings
- October 10-30 - pruning bushes
- mulching after pruning
- shelter of the plant for the winter.
Planting and transplanting phlox
August - early September is a great time to divide and transplant phlox. During this period, the plants tolerate all operations quite easily. It happened that I dug out a bush and left phloxes for a while in the far corner of the site, in order to then decide their fate. Phlox quickly mastered there and continued to bloom. This once again confirms the vitality of the phlox. The advantage of the summer-autumn period is the elimination of mistakes in choosing a variety. In the spring, it is more difficult to avoid re-grading. Especially when phlox bushes grow side by side in the same row.
Phloxes need to be rejuvenated from time to time. How often depends on the characteristics of a particular bush. The fact is that over time, the rhizome not only grows strongly, but also becomes denser. It becomes like a bump, inside which a large amount of dying tissue accumulates. A heavily overgrown bush weakens and blooms poorly. You can rejuvenate it by dividing it into several parts and cutting off the central part.
It is best to plant phloxes or their divisions in planting pits filled with a soil mixture of loam, peat, sand and humus. They are immediately tamped down easily and well spilled with water to eliminate voids. If this is not possible due to lack of time, bad weather or other reasons, then sand and humus are added to clay soils, and humus and clay (loam) to sandy soils.
I make sure to immediately mulch the soil under the newly planted phlox. Usually dry or plucked grass. The grass crushed with a lawn mower must be pre-dried. When planting the delenki, I tie it to a support. Shoots usually do not shorten, and they continue to bloom.
Features of autumn pruning of clematis, depending on the year of life
Depending on the age, the pruning is slightly different.
Let's consider these features in a little more detail.
ON A NOTE. Clematis is cut in the first frost.
In the first year, all clematis are cut at a level of 0.25 m from the ground (or 2-3 buds).
Subsequent years of life
In the future, the crop is pruned in accordance with the varietal characteristics (pruning in accordance with the type of flowering).
Anti-aging pruning for 3 and 5 years
Once every few years, clematis of the first and second groups are thinned out. For the first group, this is done every 3 years, and for the second - once every five years. In this case, the shrub is cut at the root.
What to do if phlox froze in winter?
If for some reason your flowers could not successfully overwinter, then you can try to save them. We recommend saving phlox in the following way: cut out the middle of the bush with a sharp knife, making the edge of the bush 2-4 cm thick.
And fill the middle of the bush with a universal nutrient substrate (fertile soil) and process it with Epin. This method stimulates dormant kidneys and promotes phlox resuscitation.
- We hope this method helps, and phloxes will delight you again!
How to store cannes in winter
In order for the tubers to winter safely, they need to provide a comfortable environment. Cannes can be stored in several ways:
- in the basement, cellar or refrigerator in the form of dried tubers
- at rest in a flower pot
- as a houseplant.
In all cases, the tubers are carefully dug out with a sharp shovel so as not to damage the roots. This is done in dry and warm weather.
How to store cannes in a basement or cellar in winter
The leaves of the plant are pruned to a height of 15-20 cm, the tubers are slightly shaken off, but the soil is not completely removed. Then they are dried under a canopy in the fresh air, after which they are placed in a wooden box filled with moist peat mixed in equal proportions with sand and sawdust. A box with tubers is stored in the basement and cellar with an air temperature of 5-7 ° C and a humidity of no more than 60%.
About once a month, the tubers are inspected and slightly moistened the substrate as it dries. If rotten places are found on the tuber, the affected area is cut to healthy tissue and sprinkled with crushed coal.
How to keep cannes at rest
To keep the cannes in a pot, you do not need to cut the aboveground part. If the plant is too tall, it can be shortened a little. Cannu is dug out together with an earthen lump and placed in a fairly voluminous flower pot. The plant is kept on a veranda or insulated balcony. The air temperature in the room should be in the range of 12-15 ° C.
Cannu is watered once every 2 weeks. In this case, it is important not to flood the plant, otherwise the roots will rot.
How to store cannes in winter at home
For the winter, the canna can be turned into a houseplant. This requires a spacious container, garden soil or a mixture of sand, peat and sawdust (in a 1: 1: 1 ratio) and a sunny windowsill.
Dried flowers and dead leaves are removed from the canna, the bush is carefully dug up and, together with an earthen lump, is transferred to a container with suitable soil. The flower is placed in a well-lit place (for example, on a windowsill).
Cannu is rarely watered (once every few weeks). In autumn, it is recommended to feed the plant with a complex mineral fertilizer for indoor flowers. Then it will continue to bloom until December.
Around the end of December, the canna begins a dormant period, which lasts 1.5-2.5 months. At this time, the leaves and stems dry out, and after the end of the dormant period, new leaves are formed. When the canna is "sleeping", it is not fed, it is watered only occasionally and a little, when the soil dries out very much.
In the second half of April, the flower begins to gradually harden: during the day it is kept on the balcony or in the veranda. Cannu is transplanted into the ground when warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts has passed (in the middle lane - in the second half of May).
How to store cannes tubers in the refrigerator
Cannu can also be stored in the refrigerator, but this method is unpopular among flower growers. In autumn, the tubers are dug up, washed from the ground under running water, kept in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 24 hours, then dried. Then each tuber is wrapped in paper and placed in the vegetable storage compartment. Tubers are periodically checked for disease.
Now you know how to keep Cannes in winter. Choose the method that you like best and follow the basic storage rules. Then next season, charming cannes will again decorate your flower bed with their tall stems, wide leaves and bright flowers.