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Hydrangea paniculata: description of varieties with photos, planting and care, reproduction and pruning

Hydrangea paniculata: description of varieties with photos, planting and care, reproduction and pruning


Garden plants

Hydrangea paniculata (lat.Hydrangea paniculata) is a species of the genus Hydrangea of ​​the Hortensia family, common in nature in Japan, China and southern Sakhalin. This attractive and fast growing crop is widely used in landscaping.

Planting and caring for panicle hydrangea

  • Bloom: from mid-June to October from four to five years of age.
  • Landing: in the spring before the buds swell or during the period of leaf fall.
  • Lighting: bright light or partial shade.
  • The soil: fertile, neutral, without admixture of lime or other alkalis, clayey soils or red earth are preferred.
  • Watering: plentiful and regular: the soil in the near-trunk circle should be moist at all times.
  • Top dressing: fertilizers are applied 4 times per season: in early spring - organic matter with a high nitrogen content, during the budding period and in the middle of summer - full mineral fertilizer, and in the fall - potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
  • Cropping: sanitary and formative pruning, and, if necessary, rejuvenating is carried out at the end of March.
  • Reproduction: most often by layering and cuttings.
  • Pests: aphids, spider mites, root nematodes, snails.
  • Diseases: white and gray rot, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, septoria, chlorosis, ring spot virus.

Read more about growing panicle hydrangea below

Botanical description

Panicle hydrangea is a shrub or tree up to 10 m high with shallow roots, the distribution area of ​​which significantly exceeds the projection of the crown. The leaves of the panicle hydrangea are ovoid or elliptical, up to 12 cm long.The honey inflorescences are densely haired broad-pyramidal panicles up to 25 cm long and consist of large sterile flowers up to 2.5 cm in diameter, the greenish-white petals of which gradually turn pink, and small fruitful white flowers with early falling petals. For the first time, panicle hydrangea blooms at the age of 4-5 years. The fruit is a capsule, cracking at the top when ripe, with numerous small, but extremely viable seeds.

Planting panicle hydrangea in open ground

When to plant

The best planting material is four to five-year-old seedlings that take root well and can bloom already in the year of planting. Panicle hydrangea is planted in the spring, before the start of sap flow, or during leaf fall. Saplings planted in spring will almost certainly bloom soon, but if planting is carried out in autumn, it is necessary to insulate the plant's near-stem circle for the winter.

Paniculata hydrangea can grow in partial shade, but in the bright sun its flowering will be more magnificent and longer. It is very important that the plant is protected from strong cold winds.

The soil hydrangea paniculata prefers a fertile, neutral reaction, without any traces of lime or other alkaline compounds, because of which it can bloom poorly at best, and simply die at worst. Keep in mind that the roots of the plant spread far from the trunk, so do not add chalk, dolomite flour or ash to the soil 5-6 m in diameter from the intended planting site. Do not plant bulbous flowers in this space that require annual digging of the soil - tulips, gladioli, hyacinths. Brown peat, coniferous soil or sawdust can be added to acidic soil to neutralize it. Hydrangea paniculata grows poorly in sandy soil.

How to plant

The landing site is prepared in advance. The pit for the panicle hydrangea should be spacious: depending on the size of the seedling, from 50x50 to 80x80 cm at a depth of 40 to 60 cm.The distance between two hydrangeas or between the hydrangea and other plants should be 2.5-3 m.Pour into the hole 2- 3 buckets of water so that the moisture saturates the ground well. The next day, fill the pit almost to the top with a mixture of fertile soil, sand, peat and humus (2: 1: 2: 1), adding 25 g of urea and potassium sulfate and 65 g of superphosphate to it and mixing thoroughly. Let the soil settle and settle.

The roots of seedlings are slightly pruned before planting, and in tree-like forms of panicle hydrangea, annual shoots are also shortened, leaving no more than 3-5 buds on them. Only the seedlings of large-leaved hydrangea are not cut, since the flower buds of this plant are located at the ends of the shoots.

Lower the root system of the seedling into the hole, spread its roots and dig in the plant so that the root collar is just above the surface of the site. Water the seedling well, and when the water is absorbed and the soil settles a little, the neck will be where it belongs - at the level of the surface of the site. Mulch the near-stem circle of the seedling with needles, leaf humus or sour peat and shade the plant from the bright sun at first.

Hydrangea paniculata care

Planting paniculata hydrangea and caring for it is not laborious. Garden hydrangea can grow near highways and in other unsuccessful places, but if you want to see it in its best shape, do not neglect the implementation of simple plant care measures.

Paniculata hydrangea, like other species of the genus, is extremely hygrophilous, so the soil in its near-stem circle should be slightly moist all the time. Do not let the soil dry out on hot days. Water the plant once a week, pouring at least 3 buckets of water under each adult bush. It is good to add potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation from time to time. In order to keep moisture in the soil as long as possible, the trunk circle is regularly mulched with leaves or sawdust.

The panicle hydrangea is fed four times per season. In early spring, at the very beginning of sap flow, organic matter is introduced into the soil - a solution of mullein or bird droppings, for example. The next top dressing is carried out during the budding period: a solution of 35 g of potassium sulfate, 35 g of superphosphate and 25 g of urea in 10 l of water is introduced into the near-stem circle - this amount is enough to fertilize 1 m². In the middle of summer, hydrangea is fertilized with a solution of 25-35 g of granular complex mineral fertilizer in a bucket of water. Consumption - 2-3 buckets per adult bush. The fourth top dressing is applied when preparing the plant for winter: in this case, a special fertilizer for hydrangeas that does not contain nitrogen is used.

Correct pruning of hydrangeas, which is usually carried out at the end of March, is very important to form the perfect bush or tree. Forming a bush, leave from 5 to 10 developed shoots and shorten them to 3-5 buds. The rest of the shoots are cut to the base. The old hydrangea is subjected to rejuvenating pruning, shortening all shoots to 6-7 cm from the surface of the earth: the next year the old plant will give young shoots.

Hydrangea paniculata, like any other plant, can be affected by diseases or pests. Most often, powdery mildew and aphids give her trouble. To get rid of powdery mildew, you need to treat the plant several times after 10-12 days with one percent Bordeaux liquid or a solution of 20-25 g of Fundazole in 10 liters of water. Ordinary garlic will help to cope with aphids: 250 g of chopped cloves are poured with a bucket of water, insisted for two days, after which they add 50 g of grated laundry soap to the infusion, dissolve it, stirring, and process the bush, trying to make the solution wet not only the upper one, but also the underside of hydrangea leaves. Garlic infusion treatments should be carried out once a week until the aphids disappear. If the garlic does not cope with the task, you will have to resort to the help of acaricidal drugs - Akarin, Aktar or Aktellik, for example.

With the onset of cold weather, panicle hydrangea in Siberia and the Urals needs shelter. Sometimes it is necessary to cover the hydrangea in the middle lane, if weather forecasters predict a frosty and snowless winter. The root zone is covered with a layer of rotted manure, peat or dry leaves at least 20 cm thick.As soon as it snows, throw a snowdrift under a bush or tree.

Reproduction

Most often, panicle hydrangea is propagated by cuttings and layering. The cuttings with 4-5 buds remaining after the spring pruning are placed for two days in a weak Kornevin solution, after which they are planted on the school garden, deepening the lower cut into the loose acidic soil into two buds. Cuttings of panicle hydrangea must be protected from the bright sun, and the soil in the garden should be regularly moistened, not allowing it to dry out. As soon as young leaves appear on the cuttings, the shading is gradually removed. For the winter, cuttings must be covered with spruce branches. Next summer, it is better to remove the first peduncles so that the plant directs all its forces to build up the root system. Cuttings are planted in a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years.

It is very easy to propagate a panicle hydrangea by layering: in the spring, a low-growing shoot of a young plant is bent to the ground, pinned to it and the place of fixation is covered with fertile soil or peat. Throughout the season, the layers are watered, covered with spruce branches for the winter, and the next spring it is separated from the mother plant and transplanted to the school garden for growing.

Varieties

We are sometimes asked to list the "names of paniculate hydrangeas", the most popular in the culture and at the same time the least capricious to care for, and also asked to recommend varieties of panicle hydrangea for the Moscow region. Actually, any variety of this species is winter-hardy enough for moderately frosty winters, but in conditions of abnormal cold weather they all need shelter of the root zone.

We offer you the best varieties of panicle hydrangea.

Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora (large-flowered)

A shrub that over time takes the form of a tree up to 3 m high. Differs in later flowering than other varieties. Collected in broad-pyramidal inflorescences up to 30 cm long, large sterile flowers of this variety - creamy when blooming, pure white in full bloom, and then pinkish - become greenish-red closer to autumn. The life span of plants of this variety is about 30 years;

Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Fraz

The plant is up to 150 cm high and has a crown of the same diameter. The inflorescences are large, similar to lilac clusters. The flowers are creamy at first, then they turn pink, and by the end of flowering they become dark red. On one bush, there can be snow-white and bright crimson flowers at the same time. Plants of this variety are able to withstand frosts down to -29 ºC;

Hydrangea paniculata Phantom

Plant up to 2 m high with a crown diameter of the same size. The inflorescences of this variety are large, dense, round-pyramidal. The flowers are light cream in color when blooming, but over time they become pinkish;

Hydrangea paniculata Pink Diamond

Inflorescences of this variety, up to 30 cm long, consist of creamy white flowers, which gradually acquire a dark pink, almost red color;

Hydrangea paniculata Limelight

A plant that is extremely popular among designers because of its strong shoots, easily withstanding heavy greenish inflorescences, which turn white in bright sun and pink by the end of flowering. The leaves of this variety, green in spring and summer, acquire a lilac hue in the fall;

Hydrangea paniculata Pink Lady

A fan-shaped shrub up to 2 m high with a spreading crown, straight brown shoots that acquire a reddish tint by autumn, and white inflorescences up to 30 cm long.Over time, a slight blush appears on the fragrant white flowers, then the flowers gradually turn pale pink;

Hydrangea paniculata Magic Candle

A plant with a spreading crown and large pyramidal inflorescences of light cream-green fragrant flowers, which turn pink in summer and crimson by autumn;

Hydrangea paniculata Weems Red

A plant with conical inflorescences up to 35 cm long, exuding a honey aroma. During the season, the flowers turn from white to pink, and at the end of flowering - deep red;

Hydrangea paniculata Diamond Rouge

Compact upright shrub with inflorescences up to 40 cm long, the flowers in which are first white, and then acquire a rich crimson-red color;

Hydrangea paniculata Sunday Fries

A dense compact bush with red-brown shoots, leaves pubescent along the veins and white flowers, which turn lilac-pink by the end of summer;

Hydrangea paniculata Pinky Winky

A variety that was bred more than 10 years ago, but still has not lost its popularity. This is a small tree or bush with a broadly rounded crown and shoots that grow up to 30 cm annually. Powerful stems bear paniculate inflorescences of white flowers, which change color to pink-purple during the season;

Hydrangea paniculata Melba Fraz (Fraz Melba)

A new variety, which is a tall bush with maroon shoots with a brown tint and dense pyramidal inflorescences 45-55 cm long, consisting of milky white flowers, gradually acquiring at first a pale pink, and by the end of flowering a rich wine-red hue.

In addition to those described, such varieties of panicle hydrangea are grown in culture: Silver Dollar, Little Lime, Kiushu, Bobo, Tardiva, Presox, Unique, Floribunda, Matilda, Darts Little Dot, Brussels Lace and others.

Hydrangea paniculata in landscape design

Hydrangea paniculata, due to its loose conical inflorescences, brings airiness to the landscape. It is justified to grow it next to mock orange, lilacs and spireas, since its lush inflorescences replace the wilted flowers of these shrubs. Combinations of panicle hydrangea with clipped plantings of boxwood, spirea or cotoneaster are spectacular: this combination can revive any corner of your garden. And curly varieties of panicle hydrangea will help create decorative verticals on the site, for which the hydrangea is planted near the walls of buildings or large trees, away from drafts. Such plantings attract the eye not only during the flowering period, but also in autumn, when the leaves of the hydrangea acquire a variegated color.

Recently, it has become popular to grow panicle hydrangea in large tubs or containers in well-fertilized moisture-absorbing soil. In this case, it is possible to ensure that inflorescences of different colors open on one bush. To do this, you need to divide the soil in the flowerpot with a partition into two parts and plant a hydrangea in each. When watering one half, iron salts are added to the water so that the inflorescences turn blue. Aluminum alum will help strengthen the blue pigment. When watering the other half, use just standing water.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Hydrangea
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Information about Garden Plants
  6. Information on Perennial Plants
  7. Shrub Information

Sections: Garden plants Perennials Flowering Shrubs Plants on G Hydrangea


Hydrangea Phantom: photo and description

There are many different types of hydrangeas. Each of them is unique and beautiful in its own way. However, one of the most beautiful varieties is Phantom panicle hydrangea. This variety is very popular among gardeners. This is due to its delicate sweet aroma, which spreads a great distance from the plant itself, and the beauty of its blooms.

  1. Description of the panicle hydrangea Phantom
  2. Frost resistance, drought resistance
  3. Disease and pest resistance
  4. Hydrangea breeding methods
  5. Planting and caring for the Phantom panicle hydrangea
  6. When to plant Phantom hydrangea
  7. Preparing the soil for the Phantom hydrangea
  8. Selection and preparation of planting material
  9. Algorithm for planting panicle hydrangea Phantom
  10. Phantom Hydrangea Care
  11. Watering
  12. Top dressing
  13. Mulching and loosening the soil
  14. Pruning
  15. Preparing for the winter of a panicle hydrangea Phantom
  16. Shelter for the winter hydrangea Phantom
  17. Diseases and pests, methods of control and prevention
  18. Hydrangea Phantom in landscape design
  19. Conclusion
  20. Testimonials

Types of hydrangea

The genus hydrangea includes 52 species. The most popular is large-leaved, with about 600 varieties.

Types of hydrangeas for Russian gardens:

  • paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata Siebold)
  • treelike (Hydrangea arborescens)
  • large-leaved or garden (Hydrangea macrophylla)
  • petiolar (Hydrangea petiolaris).

Other common types:

  • oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia)
  • groundcover (Hydrangea heteromalla)
  • ash (Hydrangea cinerea)
  • Sargent (Hydrangea sargentiana)
  • serrate-leaved or serrate (Hydrangea serrata).

Our article is devoted to the panicle type of hydrangea, its differences, features. This species belongs to the hydrangea family. Its origin is Japan and China, and its natural range is limited to warmer Asian countries. Paniculate hydrangeas shed their leaves for the winter - they are ovoid, dark green in color, pointed. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow for a short time. This species blooms the last of the year, is easy to grow, does not require shelter regardless of the height of the plant.

The landing site should be as sunny and warm as possible. The soil should be fertile and permeable, slightly acidic - it also needs to be watered regularly. For feeding hydrangeas, it is better to use preparations containing calcium and organic fertilizers.


Hydrangea: species and varieties. Photo and description

East Asia is the birthplace of hydrangea. In the wild, hydrangea can be found in America of both hemispheres. Hydrangea was introduced to European countries at the beginning of the fourteenth century. England and France immediately appreciated all its merits.

According to one version, the flower took its name from the Latin language, in particular from the word hortus-garden. According to another version, the name came from Princess Hortense, the sister of Emperor Charles. The Latin name Hidrangea, hydrangea received for its moisture-loving nature. And translated into Russian it means a vessel filled with water.

Hydrangea has more than 70 species:

  • tree-like,
  • paniculate,
  • large-leaved,
  • rejected,
  • oaky,
  • petiolate
  • and even a ground cover.

In Russia, flower lovers grow tree and panicle hydrangea... Little by little, garden plots began to conquer large-leaved and petiolate hydrangeas.

The simplest and most low-maintenance - tree hydrangea. It's hard to say where this name came from. Its branches are not at all like tree trunks. All branches grow from the ground. This hydrangea does not need shelter, it grows and blooms on the shoots of the current year.

  • Variety Annabelle, which is most famous, probably grows in every flower lover in her garden. The variety is over 200 years old. It was bred in the USA in the village of Anna, from which it got its name. There the bushes reach 5 meters. Our bushes are 1.5 m high, up to 3 m in diameter. Greenish-white thyroid inflorescences, up to 25 cm in diameter, do not change their color during the season. The color of the inflorescences cannot be changed by changing the acidity of the soil. Many years ago, when planting, we, not knowing anything about the hydrangea, buried nails under the bush. But, of course, no color change was achieved. The shrub is fast-growing, frost-resistant, withstands frosts up to 40 degrees.
  • Incredible considered the best variety. Its beautiful inflorescences have a diameter of as much as thirty centimeters. At first they are lemon, but gradually turn white. Its foliage is matte green. The bush reaches a height of one and a half meters.
  • Variety Invisiblespirit ideal for the Moscow region due to its amazing winter hardiness. So the translation of its name from English "invincible spirit" accurately reflects its unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. The bushes of this variety are small in themselves, they reach no more than a meter in height. Inflorescences, very refined, dark pink, thirty centimeters in diameter.
  • Pink Annabelle and Bella Anna, these varieties also change their color. First they are white and then pink. But according to some sources, the pink color lasts no more than a week. Whether this is true or not, I do not know, but I will not risk it.

Only the classic Annabelle variety grows in my garden. And it seems to me that for an ordinary summer cottage, one voluminous bush of a tree-like hydrangea is quite enough.

My heart is given panicle hydrangea... It could also be called tree-like because its trunks are like small trees. But it got its name from the shape of the inflorescences that resemble panicles. Many varieties of panicle hydrangea differ in height, from dwarfs to giants, in the shape of inflorescences from dense spike to light openwork, in the type of flowers.

Their colors are varied: white, pink, red, changing with the season. Moreover, they also grow on the shoots of the current year. They are unpretentious in leaving. Resistant to frost. You don't need to cover them.

  • Variety polar bear no wonder it has such a name. This large bear reaches a height of up to two meters, and its inflorescences reach up to 45 cm in length. By autumn, its creamy flowers change color to pink.
  • Variety Phantom... Even higher, up to three meters. Does not bend from the wind. It was not for nothing that they called it a "phantom". Striking with bright white giant dense inflorescences, which by September become pink with a delicate tint with an amazing aroma
  • Variety Bobo considered a dwarf variety, it is no higher than 80 cm. A strong bush that does not require a garter with lacy airy inflorescences. Inflorescences closer to autumn change their color, and from white they turn soft pink, similar to vanilla ice cream
  • Have Pinky Winky varieties inflorescences with sharp tips, similar to a mouse's tail. Will definitely put in this 2020 year. Since this year is the year of the mouse. Also, this variety changes its color. From white, its inflorescences gradually turn crimson.
  • Great Star - this is a high grade, up to two meters. Its flowers look like helicopters, with a wonderful aroma.
  • Variety Earle Sensation even taller, blond, handsome, up to two and a half meters in height. It blooms in late June with white flowers, which then turn soft pink and crimson in September. This is a real "early sensation". At the same time on the bush inflorescences are white, pink and crimson. An amazing scent completes the charm of this hydrangea.

I talked about the varieties that I liked. But each variety of panicle hydrangea is beautiful in its own way. The head is dizzy from the variety of varieties. And all are suitable for our region. It is simply impossible to make a choice.

The first place in beauty among hydrangeas rightfully takes Sadovaya or large-leaved hydrangea... It has large, large, textured leaves. Hence its name. It prefers only acidic soil, grows on shoots of past years and necessarily requires shelter. This variety blooms in the second year. Frost resistance is increasing every year.

Large-leaved hydrangea in the garden

They make a shelter above it, depending on the weather in October-November, with spruce branches, then put a frame, a box can be placed, cover with two layers of lutrosil.

  • Cover with a sheet of slate on top. Instead of slate, you can cover the lutrosil with a film, but without fixing it on both sides, so that there is air access. The main thing is that you cannot cover the hydrangea early as it can withstand temperatures of -5 degrees in autumn.
  • But in spring it is impossible to remove the shelter early, as with late spring frosts at a temperature of -5 degrees, the bushes can freeze.
  • It is necessary to remove the shelter gradually, the main shelter in May, when the threat of frost has passed. But even under a difficult cover, the bushes may freeze and not bloom.

Therefore, some gardeners plant a garden hydrangea that is already growing in pots, and when cold weather sets in, they water it abundantly and store it in the basement until spring. Most garden hydrangeas are very difficult to grow on their own plots. Previously, only gardeners from warm southern regions could boast of beautiful flowers.

But, finally, in 2003, winter-hardy varieties were bred - a series of varieties Endless Summer. Large-leaved hydrangea Endless summer “blooms on the shoots of previous years” and “on the shoots of the current year”. Thus, if some of the shoots freeze, the hydrangea will still bloom. This hydrangea blooms most of the summer. It fades and re-ties the buds.

Garden hydrangea is the only hydrangea that changes color depending on the pH of the soil. On more acidic soils, the inflorescences turn blue, blue, purple. On alkaline - pink and red. There are special fertilizers for blue or red hydrangeas. By adding them to the soil, we change the acidity of the soil and achieve the desired color. But since hydrangeas like acidic soils, you should not especially abuse fertilizers to increase the alkalinity of the soil.

Petiolate hydrangea - This is a liana, reaching 3 m. It blooms in June-July with pinkish-white flowers. She does not need to be covered and cut off, but for some reason I have never met her on the plots.


Varieties

A special pleasure for the gardener is choosing varieties, trying, comparing, making discoveries and being an experimenter of some kind. And there really is plenty to choose from.

  • Diamant Rouge - low grade with lush red-pink flowers. The color of the flowers changes from a faded green to red. The shrub grows up to 120 cm in height, blooms profusely and for a long time.

  • Summer Snow - a low-growing variety with very dense inflorescences, they remain white almost until the end of flowering. The height of an adult plant is 80 cm. Created in one of the most famous Dutch nurseries Alex Schoemaker.

  • "Dentel de Gorron" - has a cone-shaped inflorescences, the color varies from snow-white to dark pink variations. The leaves of the shrub are also bright, oblong, pointed in shape. This snow-white variety is considered one of the most popular among gardeners.

  • "Unique" - the dark leaves contrast with the white flowers, which have a pale pink cast. It is also a fairly popular variety, characterized by unpretentiousness and ease of care.

  • "Pearl of the Festival" - the bush grows up to 1.5 meters, has a compact rounded crown. It is distinguished by its moderate vigor, early flowering (mid-June). The flowers will initially be creamy and then white, bordered with a greenish-pink gradient.

  • Daruma - the variety is distinguished by a vertical fan-shaped shape, small and delicate inflorescences, a height of no more than one and a half meters. At the beginning of flowering, the flowers are soft cream, then the color turns into a confident pink.
  • "Confetti" - a variety with white and light pink flowers, pleases with flowering from July to September, grows up to one and a half meters.

  • "Selection" - a tall and powerful bush, the height of the shoot can even reach 3 m. The inflorescences are large, broadly conical. The plant begins to bloom in July, continues to bloom until mid-autumn.

  • Magic Starlight - a shrub with a compact rounded crown shape, the young shoots of which are red-brown in color. Flowering lasts from June to September.

  • Prim White - white hydrangea with a graceful inflorescence shape, blooms in June, earlier than all other panicle hydrangeas. Perfect for creating mixed plantings with other perennials.

  • Skyfall - the small height of the shrub gets along with rather large panicles. The inflorescences are really very large and conical. The bush is compact, the color is gaining quickly.

  • "Big Ben" - the bush can grow up to 2.5 m, spreading in shape, symmetrical, its inflorescences are fragrant, conical. The variety is distinguished by high winter hardiness.

  • Strawberry Blossom - a variety with white flowers that turn pink towards the end of the season. A branched bush with very strong branches, blooms already in the year of planting and blooms until October.

The list goes on, there are a lot of varieties. Some people mistakenly classify them as paniculata - for example, the Anabel variety refers to tree hydrangeas.


Hydrangea paniculata care

Planting paniculata hydrangea and caring for it is not laborious. Garden hydrangea can grow near highways and in other unsuccessful places, but if you want to see it in its best shape, do not neglect the implementation of simple plant care measures.

Paniculata hydrangea, like other species of the genus, is extremely hygrophilous, so the soil in its near-stem circle should be slightly moist all the time. Do not let the soil dry out on hot days. Water the plant once a week, pouring at least 3 buckets of water under each adult bush. It is good to add potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation from time to time. In order to keep moisture in the soil as long as possible, the trunk circle is regularly mulched with leaves or sawdust.

The panicle hydrangea is fed four times per season. In early spring, at the very beginning of sap flow, organic matter is introduced into the soil - a solution of mullein or bird droppings, for example. The next top dressing is carried out during the budding period: a solution of 35 g of potassium sulfate, 35 g of superphosphate and 25 g of urea in 10 l of water is introduced into the near-stem circle - this amount is enough to fertilize 1 m². In the middle of summer, hydrangea is fertilized with a solution of 25-35 g of granular complex mineral fertilizer in a bucket of water. Consumption - 2-3 buckets per adult bush. The fourth top dressing is applied when preparing the plant for winter: in this case, a special fertilizer for hydrangeas that does not contain nitrogen is used.

Correct pruning of hydrangeas, which is usually carried out at the end of March, is very important to form the perfect bush or tree. Forming a bush, leave from 5 to 10 developed shoots and shorten them to 3-5 buds. The rest of the shoots are cut to the base. The old hydrangea is subjected to rejuvenating pruning, shortening all shoots to 6-7 cm from the surface of the earth: the next year the old plant will give young shoots.

Hydrangea paniculata, like any other plant, can be affected by diseases or pests. Most often, powdery mildew and aphids give her trouble. To get rid of powdery mildew, you need to treat the plant several times after 10-12 days with one percent Bordeaux liquid or a solution of 20-25 g of Fundazole in 10 liters of water. Ordinary garlic will help to cope with aphids: 250 g of chopped cloves are poured with a bucket of water, insisted for two days, after which they add 50 g of grated laundry soap to the infusion, dissolve it, stirring, and process the bush, trying to make the solution wet not only the upper one, but also the underside of hydrangea leaves. Garlic infusion treatments should be carried out once a week until the aphids disappear. If the garlic does not cope with the task, you will have to resort to the help of acaricidal drugs - Akarin, Aktar or Aktellik, for example.

With the onset of cold weather, panicle hydrangea in Siberia and the Urals needs shelter. Sometimes it is necessary to cover the hydrangea in the middle lane, if weather forecasters predict a frosty and snowless winter. The root zone is covered with a layer of rotted manure, peat or dry leaves at least 20 cm thick.As soon as it snows, throw a snowdrift under a bush or tree.


Hydrangea Identification - Garden Basics

Are you wondering why your hydrangea isn't blooming? Wondering when and how to prune your hydrangea? These are important questions, but no one can give the right answers until you know what kind of hydrangea you have. This post will help you identify your hydrangea. It does not name the varieties, but identifies the hydrangea variety.

It is always a good idea to keep plant names as it makes it much easier to find the correct information about the crop in the future. But life happens, and people often lose the name of the plant.

Hydrangea macrophylla, also called large-leaved hydrangea

Types of hydrangea

There are several types of hydrangea, and they all do not withstand the same growing conditions. The type is based on the genetics of the plant - which species was used to develop the plant. Here is a short list of the types that will be discussed in this post.

Macrophylla (Bigleaf) Type

Hydrangea Macrophylla was bred using mainly Hydrangea macrophylla and Hydrangea serrata ... Its common names include large-leaved hydrangea, French hydrangea, lace hydrangea, and mop hydrangea. In warmer climates where it grows well, it is a very popular hydrangea due to its blue flowers, and it also produces white, pink and purple flowers. The term macrophylla means large or long-leaved.

Arborescens (smooth) Type

Smooth type bred using hydrangea Hydrangea arborescens ... It is commonly referred to as smooth hydrangea, snowball hydrangea, or Annabelle hydrangea. The term snowball comes from the fact that this type has the largest white snowball, similar to flower heads. Another common name, Annabelle, should really not be used as it confuses people into thinking that all smooth hydrangeas are Annabelle, which they are not. Hydrangea arborescens , and this name should only be used when referring to it.

Hydrangea arborescens (smooth hydrangea) by Robert Pavlis

Paniculate Type

This group of plants has genes Hydrangea paniculata ... The common name - panicle hydrangea - refers to the shape of the flower head. Instead of being round, it is shaped like a cone.

Historically, the most popular variety in this group is called Hydrangea paniculata "Grandiflora". The name has been shortened to PG hydrangea, using the first letters of paniculate and large-flowered. This plant has become so popular that some people incorrectly call all types of panicle hydrangeas PG. This leads to a lot of confusion. A plant labeled PG may or may not be Grandiflora. You never know what you're going to get with a PG.

Hydrangea paniculata "In the spotlight" by Robert Pavlis

Climbing type

Hydrangea petiolaris and Hydrangea anomala are very similar species known as climbing hydrangeas. H. petiolaris much more popular in the garden than H. anomala .

Oak Leaf Type

Oak-leaved hydrangea, or oak-leaved hydrangea - Hydrangea quercifolia ... There are a number of varieties and it can be easily identified by its leaves.

Hydrangea ordinary, oak-leaved hydrangea, by Robert Pavlis

Hydrangea identification

The following hydrangea identification process is divided into two parts. The first part (green) is designed so that you can identify the hydrangea without knowing anything about its flowers. This is very helpful if you are trying to figure out why your plant is not blooming.

The second part (blue) works through an identification process using colors. You can use this section to verify the ID that you provided in the first section.

Start with the Plant Characterization section. Go through this section until you get your ID, then skip the rest of the section.

If you know what flowers look like, check the Identify by Flower Characteristics section and verify your ID.

In most cases, the following process works. There are always exceptions in the plant world, but your plant is hardly one of them. If you have an exception, let me know in the comments.

Identify by plant characteristics

Growth habit

Hydrangeas have three different types of growth.

  • If the plant is climbing, then it will be climbing hydrangea - this is not difficult.
  • If the hydrangea is a single-stemmed tree, this plant is of the paniculate type.
  • If the plant is a bush, go to the Leaf Shape section.

Leaf shape

  • If the sash is shaped like an oak, as shown in the picture below, it is an oak leaf.
  • If the leaf is not oak-shaped, go to Leaves Per Node.

Hydrangea oakleaf, Robert Pavlis

Number of outputs per node

A node is the point on the stem where one or more leaves attach. Note the older and larger leaves on the stem as new small leaves at the stem tips grow differently. Look at all the stems, as the number of leaves can vary from stem to stem. Young paniculate and poorly grown may not have 3 leaves.

  • If at least one node on a plant has 3 emerging leaves, it is a paniculate type.
  • If none of the nodes have 3 leaves, go to the length of the petiole.

3-leafed nodule looking down the stem, Hydrangea paniculata, Robert Pavlis

Petiole, length

A petiole is a short stem that connects the leaf to the main stem; check the length of the petiole on some older leaves. Ignore the smaller leaves at the tip of the branch, as the petiole is still growing.

  • If most of the older petioles are more than 1 inch long, it is probably a woody type.

Hydrangea arborescens with long petioles, Robert Pavlis

  • If most of the older petioles are less than 1 inch in length, it is probably a macrophylla.

Hydrangea macrophylla with short stalks by Robert Pavlis

Identify by color characteristics

Climbing hydrangea and oaky hydrangea are easily identified by the above plant characteristics, therefore they are not included in this section.


Watch the video: How To Grow Hydrangea Plant from Cuttings. Hydrangea Propagation