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Afelandra - a capricious tropican

 Afelandra - a capricious tropican


Afelandra attracts with its bright appearance and original, long-flowering inflorescences. However, it is difficult to maintain it at home: the plant is quite whimsical to moisture, soil, temperature and other factors of care. Therefore, only those who have the time, opportunities, and most importantly - the desire to please this flower will be able to enjoy its beauty.

Origin and appearance

Afelandra (Aphelandra) is a genus of flowering plants of the acanthus family. Looking at the large, variegated leaves and bright inflorescences, it is easy to guess that this plant was brought to our latitudes from the tropical and subtropical forests of Brazil. Depending on the species, Afelandra is a herbaceous plant or shrub and reaches a height of up to 2 meters in tropical climates with high humidity and frequent torrential rains.

Afelandra looks spectacular due to contrasting leaves and bright bracts

The name of the genus comes from the Greek words aphelos - simple and andros - male, since the flowers of the plant have simple unicellular anthers. The natural diversity of species and varieties is so great that information on their number varies widely: from 40 to 200.

Table: external distinguishing features

Life formHeight at homeStemsLeavesInflorescences and flowersFlowering duration
Evergreen shrub
  • 30-150 cm.
  • Reaches the highest mark in 6-10 years with good care.
Erect
  • Large, rigid, oppositely arranged.
  • On the green background of the leaf blade, bright white stripes stand out along the middle and lateral veins, creating a clear white pattern.
  • Leaf shape is oval-elongated, with a pointed edge.
  • Length 20-22 cm.
  • The flowers are collected in spike-shaped tetrahedral inflorescences, the length of which is 12-15 cm.
  • The decorativeness of the plant is given not by the flowers themselves, but by their bracts.
Depending on the species, conditions and care, Afelandra blooms from a week to 2-3 months.

Video: caring for afelandra at home

Varieties

Afelandra retains the main external features regardless of the species. However, you should pay attention to some specific features of common varieties.

Table: varietal differences

ViewVarietyThe formFlowersFlowering duration
Aphelandra golden, or orange (Aphelandra aurantiaca)An evergreen shrub without a leaf pattern, grows up to 1.2 mBright orange with green bractsFlowering is short-term, no more than a week
Afelandra Retzlya (Aphelandra aurantica var.roezlii)Orange redBloom every 7-8 months, but bloom no more than a week
Protruding Afelandra (Aphelandra squarrosa)The original species is a powerful shrub up to 1.3 m high, therefore, its low-growing varieties are more in demand for growing at home.YellowBlooms from May-June to November
Louise (Louisae)Compact design, reaches a height of 40 cm.
LeopoldiiCompact design, height from 30 to 50 cm
Denmark (Dania)The most compact variety of bulging aphelandra flowers - about 30 cm
Fritz PrinslerThe compact variety with the brightest veins on the leaves
Aphelandra tetragonaShrub variety, sometimes it can reach 2 m in height; green leavesScarletFrom early summer to October

Photo gallery: species diversity of Afelandra

How to care

Afelandra is very decorative, but quite exacting to the growing conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to know her habits and constantly create an acceptable microclimate.

Important! Paired with other indoor plants, this flower may not get along. The best neighbors are tropical plants.

Table: optimal home conditions for afelandra

SeasonTemperatureHumidityLightingAirLocation
Spring-summer
  • It is preferable to keep the plant at air temperatures of 22-25 ° C.
  • It is useless to care for Afelandra and hope for its bloom if the ambient temperature is kept below 20-22 ° C.
  • Afelandra needs high humidity, so daily spraying of a flower from a fine spray bottle is a must.
  • If dry air prevails in the room, the pot with the plant is placed in a vessel with moistened peat, moss or expanded clay.
  • Bright, diffused, as Afelandra is quite light-requiring.
  • Afelandru, standing on the south window, should be protected from the midday sun.
It is imperative to ventilate the room, avoiding drafts.It should be taken out into fresh air, protected from precipitation, direct sunlight and drafts.
Autumn-winter
  • Avoid temperature extremes and do not allow the mercury column to fall below + 18–20 ° C.
  • The minimum temperature is +16 ° C.
  • Without losing the quality of flowering, the plant can withstand temperatures of +13 ° C for a week.
  • As an exception, protruding aphelandra can be noted, which not only tolerates temperature drops to +10 ° C, but also blooms more effectively in such conditions.
  • Bright, diffused. No shading required.
  • Daylight hours should be at least 8 hours. The missing time must be provided with the help of additional artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps.
  • Airing is necessary.
  • It is better to remove the plant from the windowsill during this period to avoid temperature extremes.
  • It is best to place the plant pot on the west or east window.
  • Eliminate drafts.

Watering

In the warm season, the aphelandra is watered abundantly, usually 3-4 times a week. The soil must be constantly moist.... But at the same time, it is important to ensure that the roots do not rot. Afelandra is also responsive to moisture in the air, it needs to be sprayed frequently, preferably daily, but at least every 2-3 days. During flowering, spraying is reduced - it can be done once every 7-10 days.

If you put a pot with a plant in a tray with wet expanded clay or moss, spraying can be halved.

In the cold season, if Afelandra winters in a cool place, watering is not stopped, but it is usually done no more than 1-2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen lump does not dry out. Excess water for afelandra is as dangerous as the drying out of an earthen coma. If the heating system dries up the air, continue spraying the leaves.

It is better to use soft melt or rainwater for irrigation. In the absence of such an opportunity, you can take a filtered one.

Top dressing

Top dressing is carried out with the onset of spring and until autumn, taking breaks of two weeks... Complex organic and mineral fertilizers for flowering plants are used as fertilizers. The concentration is maintained as usual, as indicated on the package. During flowering, it is advisable to fertilize Afelandra once every 7-9 days. Since the flower requires organic-rich soil, they continue to carry out occasional feeding in the autumn-winter period - once every 1-2 months.

Complex mineral fertilizer Agricola for flowering plants is also suitable for Afelandra

Flowering and dormant period

If you adhere to all the rules of care, Afelandra will definitely bloom in late summer or early autumn. However, during the flowering period, she spends a lot of energy. In order for the plant to please with the original inflorescences for the next year, the wilted flowers must be cut off immediately.

Afelandra can form seeds. But this significantly depletes the plant and may even lead to its death.

The resting period in Afelandra is not pronounced. It begins after flowering and lasts until April-May. However, during the winter rest, the plant also looks decorative. It does not shed leaves and, accordingly, needs watering, light, feeding and fresh air.

Planting and transplanting

Priming

The main requirement for the soil for Afelandra is lightness and looseness. The following substrate options are suitable:

  • clay-sod, peat soil and sand (2: 1: 1);
  • leafy, peaty soil and sand (6: 3: 2);
  • leaf, turf, peat, humus and sand (4: 1: 1: 1) with the addition of charcoal and bone meal;
  • ready-made universal substrate;
  • hydroponics;
  • hydrogel.

After self-compiling the mixture, it must be sterilized to destroy pests and a variety of pathogenic flora. At the same time, this can be done without much difficulty at home:

  • pour the prepared soil mixture into a container (pan);
  • place it in an even larger pan so that there is 3-5 cm of free space between the walls of the containers;
  • fill half of this space with water;
  • cover a large container filled with water and put it on the stove;
  • after boiling water, reduce the fire to a minimum and sterilize the soil for 1.5 hours.

Pot

The choice of container for planting depends on the size of the plant and the tastes of the grower. For larger plants, it is better to purchase heavier ceramic pots than plastic ones, this will provide stability. The pot must also have a drainage hole and a tray.

The main requirement is to match the size of the pot to the root system. It should fit pretty tightly into the pot. The abundance of free space for roots often negatively affects the quality of flowering and can even provoke its absence.

Transplant rules

Young plants under the age of 3 years grow especially actively, therefore they need an annual transplant.. Adult afelandras should be replanted every 3-4 years.... The optimal period for this is the beginning of the growing season (April-May). You can determine the need for transplanting by the roots protruding to the surface, or, conversely, they can look out through the drainage hole of the pot.

The protrusion of the roots of Afelandra on the surface of the earthen coma is a signal for transplanting

The most painless transplant method for a plant is transshipment. In this case, the root system is not damaged and the plant takes root faster in a new pot, which should be 2–4 cm larger than the previous one.

Transshipment procedure:

  1. For a day or two, it is advisable to water the plant in order to avoid shedding the earthy coma.
  2. Place the plant on the paved floor. By tapping on the walls of the pot, separate the earthen lump. Help push him out of the pot with a wooden stick.
  3. Separate the drainage from the edges of the roots or trim off parts that have grown into the drainage material.
  4. Remove some dirt from the top of the coma.
  5. Examine the roots for damage and disease. If the plant is healthy, continue handling.
  6. To ensure good air exchange and retain moisture in the soil, it is necessary to put expanded clay drainage on the bottom of the pot.

    The optimal amount of expanded clay drainage is 1/4 of the pot

  7. Pour a little substrate on the bottom, tamp.
  8. Put an earthen lump with roots in the pot.
  9. Pour the substrate between the walls of the pot and the earthen lump, crushing it with a wooden stick.
  10. Top up the soil to the desired height.
  11. Drizzle lightly.

If Afelandra has reached a huge size and transplantation is impossible or impractical, you can replace the top layer of soil in the pot annually, or grow a new plant from a shoot or cuttings.

Solution of problems

On non-observance of the rules of caring for Afelandra, she, as a rule, reacts quickly and negatively.

Table: care errors and how to fix them

External manifestationsThe reasonsSolutions
Drying of the tips of the leaves or the appearance of a brown borderLow air humidityIncrease humidity by increasing the frequency of spraying, placing the pot on a pallet of damp moss or expanded clay, or installing an electric humidifier in the room
Falling leavesInsufficient humidity and lack of lightIt is almost impossible to restore the bush in such cases; you will have to update it by cuttings
Drying out of the root systemIncrease watering and keep the ground moist
Too cold waterUse room temperature water for irrigation
Drafts, temperature differences during winter ventilationMove the plant to a protected location
Direct sunlight on the leaves (sunburn)Shade (for example, with tulle)
  • Slow growth,
  • loss of decorative qualities,
  • crushing leaves,
  • lack of flowering.
MalnutritionFeed the plant with mineral fertilizers
The appearance of dark spots on the leavesExposure of the plant to direct sunlight or insufficient ventilation of the room
  • Shade or rearrange the plant;
  • ventilate the room, avoiding drafts.
Pulling a plantInsufficient lighting
  • Rearrange to a more illuminated place;
  • if necessary, provide artificial supplementary lighting.

The most problems can be caused by fungal lesions to the flower, such pests as scale insects, mealybugs and aphids, and with dry indoor air - spider mites. Most often, contaminated soil becomes a source of disease, and pests populate the flower with improper care.

Table: Disease Treatment and Pest Control

Diseases and pestsSigns of defeatThe reasonsRemedies
Leaf moldIt affects the leaves with dark spots
  • Waterlogging;
  • transfer of spores of the fungus to the soil.
Remove affected leaves and treat the plant with a fungicide
Verticillus fungusWilting leavesSpreads through the soilGet rid of the problem plant
Decay of the base of the stemsDark putrefactive spots at the base of the stemsExcess moisture in the soilLet the soil dry out and treat the plant with a fungicide solution
Red spider miteThe leaves have turned yellow, there is a cobweb under themExcessive dry air
  • Spray with systemic insecticide;
  • increase air humidity.
Shield and false shieldLight dots along the veins of leavesIntrusion of pests into the ground or through other plants
  • The leaves of the plant must be wiped with a soapy sponge and sprayed with an insecticide solution;
  • after a week, repeat the treatment to destroy the larvae.
MealybugCotton-like plaque on the leaves
  • Mild defeat is easy to deal with. With a soft brush or cotton swab dipped in soapy water, clean the plant from worms and the white cotton-like secretions they form, and then spray it three times with an interval of 7-10 days with a solution of green soap (10-15 g per 1 liter of water), tobacco infusion , infusion of garlic or decoction of cyclamen. A good effect is given by alcohol treatment or treatment with a pharmacy tincture of calendula.
  • In case of severe damage, in addition to destruction by hand, spray at intervals of 7-14 days with one of the following preparations: Aktara, Biotlin, Calypso, Confidant, Konfidor, Mospilan, Tanrek, Fitoverm.
Aphid
  • Accumulation of insects on young shoots;
  • their deformation.

Propagation by cuttings

This is the most affordable and effective way to reproduce Afelandra at home. To implement it, you need to follow several sequential steps:

  1. Prepare wet sand or a mixture of sand and peat soil.

    A mixture of sand with peat soil is a good soil for cuttings

  2. Cut off young shoots 15–20 cm long (current year growth) from the top of the flower or cut pieces of the stem with two growth points, but not less than 7 cm.
  3. Treat them with growth stimulants in very low concentrations (according to the instructions). Processing is carried out in a darkened room at a temperature not higher than 20-23 degrees (at 28-30 degrees poisoning of cuttings occurs). In this case, glass, porcelain or enamel dishes are used.
    Tip: A mixture of a stimulant with vitamin C or vitamin B1 enhances root formation of cuttings and growth of shoots.
  4. To deepen the cuttings into the prepared soil by 3-4 cm.

    Afelandra cuttings need to be buried in the ground by 3-4 cm

  5. Bottom heating equipment can be used to speed up the rooting process.At home, it can also be an ordinary battery on which a plank, warm floor or other heat source is installed, capable of maintaining a temperature in the root environment within the range of 21-25 ° C. Heating can be provided using a regular container of water and an aquarium heater. The main thing is to monitor the temperature!
  6. To maintain a humid microclimate, it is recommended to cover the cuttings with a plastic bag, a cut bottle, or place them in plastic buckets. Open for 5-10 minutes a day for airing.

    A greenhouse for cuttings can be made from plastic buckets and film.

  7. Expect the emergence of roots: from the apical shoots, the period will be 15–20 days, 30–40 days - for cuttings cut from the stem.

    Apical stalk of Afelandra takes root for 15–20 days

  8. Prepare the soil for transplanting cuttings (a mixture of equal parts of leafy soil, peat, humus and ½ part of sand).
  9. Plant the rooted cuttings in separate 10-12 cm pots.

    Rooted stalk of Afelandra is planted in a pot 10-12 cm in diameter

  10. Provide bright diffused light and a temperature of at least +25 ° C for the further full development of the plant.

Florist reviews

Afelandra propagates by apical cuttings, rooted in water. But the new plant grows very slowly, because it needs high humidity, sun, the earth must be constantly moist, but not wet. For any misses, the aphelandra dry and fall off the leaves. By the spring, I had almost bare stems. And in the summer, on the balcony, the plant came to life, new leaves began to grow. But still, the flower is very troublesome, before you start it - think about it.

STatianahttp://indasad.ru/forum/28-razmnozhenie-komnatnich-rasteniy/1896-kak-razmnozhaetsya-afelandra

Every spring, I root aphelandra apical cuttings in a very simple way: I cut the cuttings, immediately plant them in a small pot with prepared soil, water and put it in a transparent plastic bag for two weeks. Then I open it a little, if the plant does not wither, it means that after two or three days it can be put on the windowsill. Try it - you will definitely succeed!

beehttp://indasad.ru/forum/28-razmnozhenie-komnatnich-rasteniy/1896-kak-razmnozhaetsya-afelandra

This houseplant is prized for its large, beautiful leaves and lush bloom in the fall, when most of the other houseplants have already faded. Blooming with large yellow or golden flowers can last almost two months. However, this is a very difficult crop for indoor cultivation, as it requires special care and attention. Afelandra is a large-leaved and fast-growing plant.

verus'kahttps://otvet.mail.ru/question/26861413

Video: features of growing acanthus

The exotic beauty of Afelandra beckons and catches the eye. However, before purchasing a plant, you should weigh the pros and cons. After all, it is possible to achieve decorative leaves and luxurious flowering from this beauty only in the case of careful daily care. If you have enough time and desire to make her comfortable, Afelandra will definitely reciprocate.


Afelandra: species, care, reproduction, pests and diseases

The capricious beauty Afelandra is very picky for growing at home, since few manage to create the tropical climate to which she is accustomed in her homeland. Although, if you try, you can get a beautiful plant with hard leaves as a reward, a distinctive feature of which is that the veins on the front side are cream or silver in color.

Of the large number of types of aphelander, the protruding aphelandra is best suited for indoor keeping (aphelandra squarrosa). This undersized houseplant has large, ivory-veined leaves and bright yellow flowers, collected in inflorescences.

The most common varieties are A. squarrosa Louisae and A. squarrosa Dania, which are popular in indoor floriculture.

Afelandra orange or golden (A. Aurantiaca) - another bright representative of Afelander - has orange flowers with oval-shaped leaves.

Afelandra tetrahedral (A. tetragona) can sometimes reach a meter in size. It is a plant with leaves 30 cm long and 15 cm wide with scarlet flowers with green bracts.

To grow a beauty at home, you need to know that the reaction to conditions that do not suit her will be the immediate shedding of the leaves.

To prevent this from happening, you must:

First, to find a place where it would be warm and light, but at the same time do not forget that if direct sunlight falls on the leaves of the afelandra, the plant may get burned. Therefore, you need to find an opportunity to protect it from direct sunlight, for example, if it is on a windowsill, then you can shade it with tulle.

Secondly, you need to remember that the optimal temperature for its content will be + 18-25 ° С, but not lower than +16 ° С. Afelandra will immediately react to drafts and a sharp temperature drop by dropping the leaves. In winter, you will need to ensure that the beauty has enough daylight: for this, you need to create additional artificial lighting using fluorescent lamps.

Thirdly, since the tropics are the homeland of Afelandra, it needs high humidity. To do this, it must be frequently sprayed with soft water (every 2-3 days). During flowering, spraying is reduced - it can be done once every 7-10 days. Also, the soil in which the plant grows should be moist. But at the same time, it is important to ensure that the roots do not rot. Afelandra is watered up to 3 times a week in summer, and no more than 1 time a week in winter.

During flowering, it is advisable to fertilize Afelander. For this, fertilizers are used for flowers. They are brought in once every 7-9 days. A sod soil mixture is suitable as a soil. Afelandra blooms between spring and early autumn. If we take specifically the bulging aphelandra, then it blooms in the summer and so that next year it is just as beautiful, it is necessary after the end of flowering to remove the heads of old inflorescences and place the plant in a room with a temperature of 11-13 degrees, occasionally spray the leaves with warm water, create the plant has good illumination, and water it moderately.

To give the aphelandra a more decorative shape, you can pinch it: for this, remove the buds from the upper shoots. If, after flowering, you do not remove the inflorescences, then seeds will form. If you need seeds, then it is better to leave the bloom on the flower until February-March, until the seeds ripen in the box. Although aphelandra is a perennial plant, it is usually replaced every 2 years by re-growing it.

With the onset of spring, new shoots are formed at Afelandra, which are used for reproduction. But before that, you need to take care of buying a small pot and preparing a soil mixture from sod land and river sand at the rate of 4: 1.

Cut off a young shoot with a growing point and three to five healthy leaves about 9-10 cm from the top and place in prepared soil. Carry out abundant watering and keep the future flower in a room with an air temperature of +24 degrees. In about a month, the shoot will grow up and it will need to be transplanted into a larger pot and already adhere to the basic recommendations for caring for the aphelandra.

Reproduction of the protruding Afelandra

The protruding Afelandra can be propagated by seeds. Seeds are planted immediately after harvest. To do this, take the soil in the following composition: peat substrate + leafy earth + peat + humus earth + sand. If possible, add mineral fertilizers to the soil. For the seeds to sprout better, the pot can be covered with a plastic bag and it is advisable to provide the bottom heating of the pot. The main condition that must be observed is to provide the necessary air humidity and monitor the air temperature. The roots appear after half a month or even later.

Afelandre's illness and problematic moments

Afelandra wilting occurs when the plant is exposed to a draft. If the surface of the leaves begins to brown, it means that a lot of light gets on the plant: it is necessary to moderate the illumination. Sometimes the leaves turn brownish due to the fact that the room is not ventilated and the plant does not have enough clean air. In this case, you can rearrange the afelandra to another room, where there will be a more favorable atmosphere.

Small leaves on the new plant indicate that the aphelandra lacks mineral fertilizers, it should be fed. In the absence of flowering, the plant is also fed. Well, if the leaves fall off, then the plant is experiencing a lack of moisture and excess heat. In this case, the plant can be moved to a room with a lower temperature.

Of the pests most dangerous for Afelandra are scale insects, scale insects, aphids.


Houseplants alphabetically: names and photos | The letter a

Allamanda is not very widespread. This plant can only be purchased from specialist stores and garden centers. It is best to buy allamanda in spring or autumn.

The final notes of the bright, blooming garden belong to perennial autumn asters. Their lush bloom cannot be stopped even by the first frosts. Under the warm rays of the autumn sun, the thawed buds open again ...

Unpretentious asters of all kinds of colors and shades are the real queens of autumn flower beds.
The annual aster is grown in a seedling and non-seedling way.

In the latest catalogs of the well-known German seed companies Setimex and Benary, new series (groups) of cut asters are presented, which are distinguished by increased terry, stability during transportation, as well.

At first glance, Astilba is a rather hassle-free culture, but in order to "please" it, so that it blooms expressively and magnificently for many years, you need to know some tricks.
We present to your attention a calendar of astilba care works for each month.

At home, abutilone reaches one and a half meters in height. This houseplant is very decorative and graceful. Abutilone leaves resemble maple leaves, which makes an ornamental plant for home and comfort even more attractive.

The name is derived from the Greek "agauos", which means "amazing", "noble", "wonderful", "excellent", and it is named after Agave - the daughter of one of the most ancient mythical kings.

The name of the genus "Aglaonema" in translation from Greek means "aglaia" - "shine" and "nema" - "stamen" - due to the presence of shiny stamens in some species. Aglaonema is prized because of the beautiful decorative variegated leaves with an intricate pattern. When purchasing aglaonema for home gardening, you can be sure that it will always delight the eye with the freshness of green leaves. Caring for the plant is very simple, it is not at all demanding on lighting, so even a novice florist can successfully cope with its cultivation.

Adeniums stand out in a large group of "domestic" plants for their exoticism - small trees or shrubs, with thick trunks, shiny or velvety leaves and large flowers from white to dark crimson.

Venus hair (maidenhair) is a capricious, but very beloved plant by many. Despite its whimsical nature, hair venus, or maidenhair, is one of the most popular indoor plants.

Azalea is a flower of passion! In the east, this flower is considered a symbol of female beauty. White, scarlet, lingonberry, coral, dark purple azalea flowers delight with their tenderness and variety of colors

An evergreen shrub with green and variegated leaves and long hanging flowers. The word "akalifa" originated in ancient times. This is what the ancient Greeks called nettles. But the great Linnaeus, working on his plant taxonomy, preferred to call the nettle Urtica, which means "stinging", and the name of akalif, which remained ownerless, went to the genus of plants from another family.

Alocasia is one of the most magical plants. leaf shape and color attract attention, the plant seems dangerous, bright and immediately remembered for its unusual appearance.

If you want to hint to a man that he is not just a friend for you, give him amaryllis.

Pineapple is interesting in that some of its species are excellently grown as a houseplant, and it pleases the eye of flower growers, decorating any room. Some species can even produce fruits, although they are not edible and are rather small. But the main charm of pineapple is not in the fruit, but in its magnificent rosette of leaves.

Anthurium is an exotic plant. As it is not called - and a flower of love, and a flamingo flower, and a flower symbolizing the masculine principle.

A representative of the cactus family, with stems up to 2 meters in length, for which it received the name "rat tail".

Asparagus takes greenery and ineradicable zest for life. At the same time, he is absolutely indifferent to enthusiastic views, eulogies and other manifestations of attention. Give him a lot of light and a spacious pot, and looking at his green riot, you will certainly say: "Life is good!"

The second name of this plant is Kostenets nesting, the British call it more poetically: Bird's Nest Fern - which means "fern is a bird's nest." This plant of the fern family is rather large: its xiphoid leaves reach 60 cm in length. Asplenium, like a true fern, loves shade and moist air. As an epiphyte, Asplenium is accustomed to be content with marginal, but loose and breathable soils.

The capricious beauty Afelandra is very picky for growing at home, since few manage to create the tropical climate to which she is accustomed in her homeland. Although, if you try, you can get a beautiful plant with hard leaves as a reward, a distinctive feature of which is that the veins on the front side are cream or silver in color.


We grow weltheimia at home - what is important to know

In order for the demanding Tropicana not only to grow, but also to be able to lay a peduncle, it must be provided:

  1. A dark place during the dormant period (spring-summer), and good lighting in autumn and winter, during the growing season.
  2. In summer - temperatures up to + 22 ° С, and from November to spring - no higher than 10-12 ° С heat.
  3. Moderate watering along the edge of the pot, and scanty in summer, when the bulb is resting.
  4. Top dressing once a month with fertilizers for bulbous - only during the flowering period.

Another nuance concerns planting the bulb - it cannot be completely buried in the soil. The tip (about 1/3) should remain above the surface of the substrate. For planting, use a mixture of sand, leaf and sod land in equal proportions. Weltheimia is most often propagated by bulbs.


Description

Andalusian horses are of medium height. At the withers, they are no higher than 155-160 cm. The body is compact, massive, with a beautiful smooth curve. The head is medium-sized, neat, well-defined large almond-shaped eyes. These are born horses, so the legs of these animals are light, thin, but not long. The hooves are strong and massive.

These thoroughbred horses are mesmerizing as they move. They are very graceful, sophisticated, and have a high stroke. Therefore, it is not in vain that they say that the Andalusians do not go, but dance.

  1. Mostly gray in color.
  2. Dark brown Andalusian horses are rare.

The head is especially beautiful in this Spanish breed. The eyes are large and dark, and the mane is very thick and long. A bushy horse tail complements this beautiful image. This allows the Andalusians to differentiate themselves from the competition.

Attention! The main farm for breeding these animals is considered to be a military horse farm in the Spanish province of Andalusia. In this country, horses are considered a national pride.


Strawberry care calendar from spring to autumn.

Strawberries (garden strawberries) are a rather capricious culture.Therefore, it must be carefully looked after from early spring to late autumn.
If you decide to grow strawberries, then approach this consciously. It is necessary to understand that this is a responsibility, the seedlings after planting require a lot of care and work.
We will tell you what work and at what time you need to carry out.

They begin to take care of the strawberry garden even before the snow completely melts (usually in March), and they finish work with the onset of frost.


When the first warm days come and the snow partially melts from the beds, the strawberries are covered with plastic wrap or agrofibre. This will allow you to get an early harvest of berries.

The covering material is placed on arcs so that an air gap remains between it and the plants. Note: the greater the volume of air under the shelter, the lower the temperature the strawberry bushes can withstand.

As soon as the snow completely melts, the bed is cleaned: the dried leaves and flower stalks are removed, the remains of the mustache are cut off with scissors. Young rosettes are planted in the places where the dead bushes grew.

After the restoration of the beds, preventive treatment for diseases and pests is carried out.

When the ground thaws, the soil is loosened in the strawberry garden. This will keep the moisture accumulated during the winter in it. At the same time, the bushes are slightly huddled so that the root system begins to grow faster.

April


If you plan to plant strawberries in the spring, do so as early as possible. In April, the weather is different: sometimes in the middle of spring there is still a dense layer of snow, and sometimes at this time the buds are already in full bloom. Therefore, when setting a suitable planting date for strawberries, they are more guided not by time, but by weather conditions.

When the strawberries start to grow, the plantings are mulched with organic matter or a special mulching film. During the period of massive foliage growth, a second preventive treatment against diseases is carried out.


Garden strawberries grown in tunnels are ventilated daily so that the plants do not overheat under the rays of the spring sun. In the morning, one or both ends are slightly opened, and closed at night.

Strawberries grown in the open field are covered with spunbond at night, since return frosts in spring (and sometimes even a drop in temperature to 1 ° C) can destroy the plants.

During the flowering of strawberries, strawberry weevils may appear on it. The bushes are sprayed with garlic infusion or other folk remedies for pest control.

May is often dry. For the proper development of plants and the formation of fruits, the strawberry garden is regularly watered. In the second half of May (depending on the region and weather), early strawberries begin to bear fruit. The crop is harvested in a timely manner, then watering is carried out after picking ripe berries.

If at this time there are frequent heavy rains, the plants protect against rot and powdery mildew. And also, if necessary, weeds are weeded.

In May, garden strawberries begin to actively release whiskers, which take a large amount of nutrients from the plant. If you grow strawberries for berries, and not for reproduction, then the antennae should be removed regularly.

By correctly adjusting the number of whiskers on the bushes, you can get both planting material and a good harvest of berries.


Harvesting. To prevent the berries from getting dirty and rotting, black non-woven material is laid under the bushes or shavings are poured. This helps to protect garden strawberries from gray mold and weeds.

Also in June, strawberry rosettes are rooted in separate cups or cassettes. Such plants will be ready for transplanting to a new location in 2-3 weeks.


After the end of fruiting, all old, diseased and damaged leaves are removed from the bushes. The garden is well watered, the soil around the bushes is loosened and all unnecessary mustaches are removed from them.

In July, strawberry mites can settle on strawberry bushes. Leaves are cut from damaged plants and burned. Then the entire bed is sprayed with water (about 60 ° C) or a hot solution of potassium permanganate.

If other insect pests appear on the plants, strawberry bushes are sprayed with biological insecticides. You can also resort to folk remedies. In addition, during this period, strawberries are often affected by spotting, powdery mildew, gray rot.
New strawberry beds continue to be planted in July! It is necessary to plant as soon as possible so that the plants have time to gain strength for wintering.

August


At the end of summer, on a strawberry bed, the soil is deeply loosened and complex fertilizer is applied: 1 tsp each. under each bush. Until the end of the month, they finish planting the mustache, the bushes are regularly watered.

In the second half of summer - early autumn, you should take care of timely watering of the strawberry garden

September


Flower buds are forming this month, from which berries will emerge next year. Therefore, it is important not to forget to water the plants in September.

October


In October, favorable conditions are created for plants that will help them to winter well. To do this, water the beds, loosen the soil, remove weeds. Strawberry bushes are covered with peat, humus or compost.

November


When the topsoil (to a depth of 5-7 cm) freezes, the beds are mulched. This will prevent the plants from being pushed out of the ground. To trap the snow, brushwood, Jerusalem artichoke leaves, raspberry or corn stalks are placed on top. In this form, strawberries overwinter.

Thanks to the correct and timely work on the care of the strawberries, you will be able to grow a healthy plant and harvest a good harvest of sweet berries. Follow these guidelines and you will succeed!


* AFELANDRA

Something strange is happening with the aphelandra. The leaves turn yellow and dry up, curl up. And the stalk folds to one side, with difficulty holding the leaves, and what is left of flowering.
Help fix the situation.

Yes, aphelandra loves partial shade, as well as spraying 2 times a day, and good watering is necessary so that the earthy clod does not dry out, but also does not float like in a swamp. It is practically impossible to make it bloom after the purchase, if it does not die, it will regularly drop its leaves, almost she will not like it. A false palm tree will remain.
Capricious horror.

Siu, all that is left of the flowering is to urgently remove, check if the roots are not flooded. And spray more often, she loves moisture very much.


Diseases and pests

Gaillardia is not susceptible to disease, but bad weather or excessive moisture in the soil can provoke fungal damage to the culture.

Fungal diseases Characteristic Means of struggle
Gray rot Damages the lower leaves of the plant and gradually spreads to the stem. Topaz ”,“ Strobi ”,“ Maxim ”,“ Abiga-peak ”,“ Alirin B ”,“ Glyokladin ”(depends on the degree of damage).
White rot Represents yellowish spots on both sides of the leaf plate.
Powdery mildew It appears as a cotton bloom on the leaves.
Spotting Looks like grayish spots on the plant.

When pests (whiteflies or aphids) appear on the bushes, I advise you to treat them with "Decis" or "Akellik" preparations.


Watch the video: Um pouco sobre hibisco, afelandra, flor de maio e samambaia alfinete aspargo alfinete