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Pachistakhis: home care, reproduction, signs and superstitions, photo

Pachistakhis: home care, reproduction, signs and superstitions, photo


Houseplants

Pachystachis (lat.Pachystachys) - a genus of evergreen flowering plants of the Acanthus family, which includes about 12 species growing in the subtropical and tropical regions of America and East India.
In indoor floriculture, the pachistachis yellow species has been known since the 19th century, but it is still not a very frequent guest on our windowsills. Translated, the word "pakhistakhis" means "thick ear" or "thick thorn": the inflorescence of these plants is a dense ear. We call pachistakhis "golden candle" or "golden shrimp".

Planting and caring for pachistachis

  • Bloom: from February to October.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light.
  • Temperature: during the active growing season - the usual temperature for a dwelling, during the rest period - within 18-16 ºC. The lower temperature threshold is 10 ºC.
  • Watering: during the period of active growth - regular and abundant, during the period of rest - moderate to scarce.
  • Air humidity: increased. It is recommended to keep the plant on a pallet with wet pebbles.
  • Top dressing: from spring to autumn - 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants in liquid form. In winter, it is enough to apply top dressing once every six weeks.
  • Rest period: from mid-autumn to late winter.
  • Transfer: at the end of winter: young plants - annually, adults - once every 3 years.
  • Cropping: regular, at the end of the growing season.
  • Reproduction: cuttings, less often seeds.
  • Diseases: root rot, as well as refusal to bloom and loss of attractiveness as a result of improper care or violation of conditions of detention.
  • Pests: spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, thrips and whiteflies.

Read more about the cultivation of pachistachis below.

Botanical description

Pachystachis yellow is an evergreen shrub 90 to 20 cm high with dark green oval, slightly wrinkled and pointed at the ends leaves up to 10 cm long.White tubular two-lipped flowers of pachistachis up to 5 cm long with yellow bracts are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences up to 10 cm long During flowering the bracts remain fresh and attractive.

Pachistachis care at home

Growing conditions

The indoor flower pachistachis is a warm and light-loving plant, it needs bright diffused light for normal growth and development, therefore the best place for a flower in an apartment is the northeastern windows. On the southern windowsills, the pachistachis should be shaded from direct rays at least at noon, when the sun is especially hot.

Under natural growing conditions, the lower temperature threshold for pachystachis is 10˚C, but a long stay at this temperature leads to loss of leaves, therefore, at home, the dormant period should take place at a temperature of at least 16 ˚C. In summer, the pachistachis plant normally tolerates the temperature natural for our latitudes. Outdoor vacations - on the terrace, in the garden or on the balcony - will benefit the plant, but only if you arrange for it to be protected from rain, wind and drafts.

Watering and feeding

Watering pachistachis during the growing season will need regular and abundant watering (depending on the air temperature, once every 3-7 days), and during the rest period - moderate to scarce, if the pachistachis spends the winter in conditions of low air temperature. If you do not have the opportunity to place the plant in a cool room for the winter, then water it as usual.

The pachystachis leaves, which sink and hang from thirst, will tell you that it is time to water the plant. However, it is better not to wait for such hints, but to water the soil in the pot as soon as its top layer dries.

Water to moisten the substrate is used thawed, passed through a filter or settled for a day. The water temperature for irrigation should be 1-2 degrees warmer than in the room.

Caring for pachistachis at home involves the application of fertilizers. Pachystachis is fed during the period of active growth 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer, which is introduced as a solution into a pre-moistened substrate. You can fertilize pachistachis and organic matter, for example, a solution of mullein or chicken manure, which is sold ready-to-eat in specialized stores. If pachistachis does not rest in winter, feed it with a mineral complex once every 1-1.5 months.

In the photo: Growing pachistachis at home

Transfer

Young pachistachis are transplanted annually in spring, until flowering begins. For adult plants, the pot is changed no more than once every three years. For pachistachis, an earthen mixture of equal parts of peat, leafy soil, humus, sod land and coarse river sand is needed. The soil must be disinfected two weeks before transplanting, heating in the oven or spilling with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. At the bottom of the new pot, you must first lay a layer of drainage material, and the flower should be cut off before transplanting. The pachistachis prepared for transplantation is transferred from the old pot to a new one, after which the voids are filled with a soil mixture, the substrate is compacted and watered. For several days after transplanting, the plant must be protected from the sun.

Pruning

The flower is cut regularly, otherwise it will become unattractive due to the bare shoots in the lower part. When and how to prune pachistachis? The shoots of the plant are cut at the end of the dormant period, leaving only 10-15 cm of them. The cuttings can be used as cuttings for propagation.

Pachystachis bloom

Pachistachis blooms from February to October. You can, of course, make it bloom in winter, but this will require additional lighting. Funny ears of pachistachis resemble aphelandra inflorescences, which is not surprising, only in pachistachis they are more elongated. They attract yellow bracts that do not fade for several weeks in the inflorescence. And the flowers themselves - spongy, light, almost white - fall off very quickly, after 3-4 days.

Flowering problems can only arise if the plant lacks light. Old, elongated and bald pachystachis in the lower part of the shoots form a small number of inflorescences, and flowers form only on young shoots, therefore, if you want to get more inflorescences, force the plant to branch.

Pachystachis begins to bloom at an early age: in some cases, the cuttings bloom within a couple of months after rooting.

New pachystachis inflorescences branch off from wilted inflorescences, so flowering can last for quite a long time. Nevertheless, it is advisable to remove faded spikelets for preventive and hygienic purposes.

Reproduction of pachistachis

Most often, for reproduction of pachistachis, a vegetative method is used - cuttings. As we already wrote, shoots cut during spring haircut can be used as cuttings. How to propagate pachistachis?

You will need apical cuttings with two internodes and two pairs of leaves. For rooting, which takes place most successfully at a temperature of 22 ˚C, cuttings are cut into a container with water. In the process of growing roots, leaves may fall off the cuttings, and to prevent this from happening, the leaf plates should be shortened in half. But even if in this case the leaves fall off, do not despair: after planting in the ground, new leaves will appear at the top of the cutting.

In the photo: Blooming pachistachis

Cuttings are also rooted in a loose substrate of equal parts of leafy soil, humus, peat, turf and perlite. A plastic bottle cut from the top is filled with a soil mixture, and a cut of the planted cuttings is treated with Kornevin before planting in a bottle with a substrate. To create a greenhouse effect, the top of the bottle with the handle is covered with a film, which is removed from time to time so that the handle can breathe. Or you can put on the lower part of the bottle, into which the handle is planted, its upper part and fix it with tape, and for airing, simply unscrew and remove the lid. Keep the cuttings under bright, diffused light.

Problems with rooting pachistachis usually do not arise: roots grow even in cuttings that have lost leaves. When the cuttings acquire a root system, plant them in an amount of 3-4 pieces in a low and wide pot: in the form of a bush, pachistachis looks much more attractive. And don't forget to pinch the tops of the stems from time to time.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and their treatment

When growing pachystachis in heavy soil, abundant and frequent watering can lead to stagnation of water in the roots and damage to the plant by root rot. Examine the root system of the pachistachis, and if it is not completely rotted, remove the affected areas, hold the roots in the fungicide solution and plant the plant in a fresh, more suitable substrate. However, it is not always possible to save a plant from this fungal disease, even if you reduce watering and at first use a solution of a fungicidal preparation to moisturize the substrate.

To prevent root rot from developing, monitor the state of the substrate in the pot: it should be loose and light. And be sure to drain the water that has flowed into the pan after watering.

If you are keeping the pachistachis pot on a pallet of wet pebbles, set it up so that the drain holes of the pot are not submerged in water. Water should saturate the substrate with moisture, and not stagnate in it.

In the photo: How to grow pachistachis

All other troubles arise in pachistachis from improper care or as a result of non-compliance with the conditions for its cultivation.

  • For example, if a flower has fallen leaves, this is an indication that you did not water it enough or kept it in a draft.
  • Curled leaves and dry tips are a sign of too low room humidity.
  • Strongly elongating stems, lack of flowering and small leaves indicate that pachistachis suffers from a lack of light.
  • Slow development and growth retardation mean that it is time to change the substrate in the pot, and the shoots that are bare in the lower part hint that the pachistachis needs rejuvenation - a short pruning.

Pests and the fight against them

Most often, indoor pachystachis are affected by mealybugs, scale insects and spider mites. All of them feed on the plant cell sap. If you notice white cotton-like lumps or small yellow dots on the leaf plates in the axils of the leaves, take action immediately. The scale insects and scale insects must be removed from the plant with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Ticks are not so easy to detect due to their small size, but a thin web is a sign of their presence, in addition to pinpoint bites on the leaves. Wash the pachystachis in the shower, protecting the substrate from soapy water, then let the plant dry and process the leaves with Aktellik or Fitoverm. It is better to spray pachystachis outdoors.

Occasionally pachystachis are occupied by whiteflies and thrips, which also feed on cell sap. Control measures for these pests are the same as for ticks, scale insects and worms.

Types and varieties

Description of the most commonly grown at home yellow pachystachis (Pachystachys lutea) we gave at the beginning of the article, but sometimes two more species can be found in the room and greenhouse culture:

Pachystachis red (Pachystachys coccinea)

Basically a greenhouse plant, since this species reaches 2 m in height.Its bright green, sometimes covered with burgundy stains, leaves up to 40 cm long are located on short petioles. The bracts are also green, and the elongated tubular red flowers are similar to the feathers that once adorned hats. Because of the flowers, this species is called the "Cardinal's Guardsman".

In the photo: Pachystachis red (Pachystachys coccinea)

Pachystachis spikelet (Pachystachys spicata)

A species that is grown mainly in botanical gardens and is a rare member of the genus in home collections. It has dark green leaves up to 25 cm in length and bright red flowers, collected on a cone-shaped bracts. Some experts consider pachystachis spikelet not as an independent species, but as a variety of red pachistachis, but there is still no clarity on this issue.

In the photo: Pachystachis spicata (Pachystachys spicata)

Pachistachis - signs and superstitions

Pachistakhis is credited with magical properties: it fills the house with vitality, has a beneficial effect on the human nervous system, that is, it has a calming effect on hyperactive people and at the same time activates passive household members. The yellow color of the bracts of pachystachis has a positive effect on the relationship between spouses, helping to smooth out conflicts and develop compromise solutions.

Some omens are also associated with pachistachis. For example, if, with normal care, the plant suddenly began to fall off the inflorescences and dry the leaves, this portends trouble with relatives or relatives. But the unexpectedly bright color of the bracts is a sign of an upcoming pleasant event. The pachistakhis presented as a gift is a wish for happiness in your personal life, which, as they say, always comes true.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Acanthus
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful Flowering Acanthus Plants on P


Arrowroot - home care, signs and superstitions, types and reproduction

The arrowroot has gained particular popularity in floriculture - a flowering plant that surprises with its decorativeness as if leaves painted with patterns. The flower was born on the territory of the West Indies and the tropics of South and Central America, and the name was given in honor of the doctor and botanist B. Marant.

The exotic flower is suitable for keeping in any room due to its diminutive size. Growing this representative of the Marantovs at home can sometimes cause difficulties for beginners, but if you follow the simple rules for caring for the arrowroot, it will delight you with bright green leaves for a whole year.


Ripsalis how to transplant correctly

Plants are transplanted as needed, after 3-5 years. Ripsalis roots are weak, they do not need to be deeply buried, shallow pots are used for transplanting

Stems are fragile and brittle, transplant plants should be done carefully

The main condition for the selection of soil is that it is loose, neutral or slightly acidic. A mixture of turf, plant residues, sand and peat is suitable for this purpose. A drain is placed in the bottom of the pot.

During the growing season, once every 15-30 days, plants should be fed with fertilizers for cacti, diluting it in half the norm according to the instructions. Excessive nitrogen is contraindicated in woody cacti.


Home care

The unpretentious epiphyte native to Brazil is less capricious than other types of succulents and cacti. There is an important nuance - a flower pot with a plant cannot be moved to another place and even turned unnecessarily. Rhipsalis blooms worse, it can shed its buds, like the Rozhdestvennik, who also does not like "moving" to a new place. The features of growing a forest cactus are described below.

Location and choice of flowerpot

Helpful information:

  • optimal zone - with bright, diffused lighting, but without the scorching sun
  • Ripsalis flower grows well in western and eastern rooms
  • you can hang the pots with the original epiphyte near the window or fix the decorative structure on the wall. A good option is a graceful stand with high legs, which is placed closer to the light.
  • it is important that the room is not very hot, the temperature fluctuates depending on the season of the year, but in any case, not higher than + 24 ° С
  • you need to think about whether it will be convenient for the hostess to spray the plant, to provide a free approach to the flower without moving the flowerpot during the procedure
  • the flowerpot needs a wide and not very deep one in order to neatly distribute fragile roots. Drainage holes are an important element, in the absence of which the liquid will stagnate.

Where to place the plant

Three important requirements:

  • bright place with the possibility of light shading, diffused lighting
  • lack of drafts and dampness
  • the indoor temperature meets the requirements for a particular season.

Two more important rules:

  • There should also be a convenient approach to the flowerpot: you will often have to spray the epiphyte, and if placed in an uncomfortable place, there will be a risk of a more rare procedure due to discomfort.
  • A cactus with long, fragile shoots should not stand in an area where households often move. In some species, the length of the stems reaches 1 m or more, with careless movement it is easy to damage the elements.

Soil and drainage

In nature, the epiphyte does not need a dense substrate for good growth. In a dwelling, Ripsalis grows well in loose soil: a soil mixture is suitable for cacti and succulent plants. The acidity level is neutral. some charcoal on the bottom is good protection against root rot.

A drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, clay shards prevents the accumulation of liquid after irrigation. Thickness - up to 2 cm. You need a flowerpot with holes in the bottom (3-5 holes) so that moisture gradually flows out and the earthen lump is not too dense.

Planting and transplanting

The growth rate of an exotic cactus is average, moving to a larger flowerpot is required no more than once every 24–36 months. The transplant is carried out only at the end of the flowering period. A pot of medium depth, wide enough.

The root system is fragile, you can not shake the substrate from the underground part. When transplanting, only the transfer method is used. After moving the flower, the soil is slightly moistened, they put the flowerpot in a permanent place, make sure that households do not touch the plant, there are no rays of the hot sun on the shoots.

Visual video - instructions for transplanting Ripsalis:

Content temperature and humidity

Like many species from tropical countries, Ripsalis does not tolerate excessive dryness in a room. High humidity creates an unsuitable microclimate for people, constant humidity at a level of 75% and above can harm health, provoke the development of dampness and fungus. What to do?

  • For good growth and development of a forest cactus, it is useful to spray the plant every two to three days in the warm season.
  • You can pour water into the pan, leave the flowerpot for a couple of hours to absorb the liquid. Next, be sure to pour out the water, let the remaining liquid drain. You need to act carefully, move the flower pot less.

Watering and spraying

From April to September, when the ripsalis throws out flowers, watering is abundant enough so that the soil does not dry out. Closer to winter, moisture is reduced, and during December - February, water is added infrequently, but the substrate should still be moderately moist.

Lighting and supplementary lighting

In summer, the exotic species requires diffused light. Forest cactus does not like dark rooms, grows poorly, does not bloom.

In winter, ripsalis is moved to a room where the temperature is lower than usual: at + 14 ° C ... + 16 ° C. Moderate lighting, additional lighting is not required: the plant has a dormant period.

Top dressing and fertilizers

To increase the nutritional value of the soil, liquid products for the Cactus family are used. The optimal period for top dressing is from April to the end of August. Frequency - every 14-16 days.

The increased nitrogen content interferes with the ejection of buds, often leads to unaesthetic yellowness of the stems.

Flowering and resting period

With good care, adherence to the growing season and dormancy, the forest cactus has enough strength to eject multiple small buds. The small inflorescences are funnel-like or bell-shaped, with colors pink, yellow, white and color variations such as greenish-white buds. Flowering zones are located along the entire length of the stems, there is no long peduncle, like Amaryllis, Hippeastrum, Amazonian lily and Clivia. Rhipsalis pleases the eye with spectacular flowering for a month or more.

Pruning

  • Ripsalis will look neat with timely hygienic pruning. There are no requirements for crown formation: the plant should look slightly "disheveled".
  • The stems of a forest cactus are fragile, it is easy to damage the elements. For this reason, it is not necessary to pinch the shoots, especially since the central stem is absent in most species, the stems grow directly from the root region.
  • Thinning twigs, removing rotten, sick, dried out elements, not only gives an exotic plant an aesthetic appearance, but also prevents the spread of diseases to other areas. During the procedure, they act carefully, unscrew the damaged elements at the joints of the segments. If the stem is completely damaged, then carefully unscrew the entire shoot.
  • With hygienic pruning, old elements are reduced by a third of their length.


The nuances of pruning and crown formation

Scindapsus is a liana that reaches more than 10 meters in indoor conditions. It can be grown as an ampelous plant. Its stems are weakly branched. With the help of scindapsus, walls are decorated, columns or circular supports are wrapped. It is advisable to plant several cuttings in a pot in order to get a row of lashes.

You can plant several shoots with different leaf colors in a flower pot on a leg, grow not as a liana, but in the form of a hanging ampelous bush. When the lashes reach the desired length, all growth points on them are drowned out by pruning, due to this additional tillering occurs. If you put a vase on a column, you can create a beautiful ampelous plant.


Photos of pachistachis

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What secrets are kept by long-growing trees - signs

The problem of old trees, which take up a lot of space on the site and become an obstacle to the growth of young seedlings, periodically overtakes every gardener. Someone trusts the work of professionals, someone on their own is trying to destroy the unwanted giant.

However, you should not rush to uproot long-growing plantations, because there is a popular belief that a tall tree hanging over a house serves as a living amulet for its owners. All advice is based on Russian omens.

There is another reason when the tree should be left untouched. This principle applies to cases when a person buys a plot that already had owners, with old buildings that have been standing for more than a dozen years. If you want to preserve the building, carefully examine everything that grows around. Do not hesitate to invite a magician or witch to help you.

Old trees can become a haven for the ordeal of the soul of an innocently murdered or suicide person. By disturbing it, you can incur anger.

The tree planted by the previous owners may turn out to be a protective talisman of the house from damage and the evil eye or the penetration of otherworldly entities.

Long-lived tree plants are able to tell about the events that they found. By hiring a clairvoyant specialist, you can get a chance to uncover the secrets of the acquired land. Who knows, maybe you will find treasures hidden under a tree or help an innocent soul find freedom and get rid of the ghostly existence between worlds.


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