Garden strawberries Honey: planting and growing in the open field and under the film. Disease and pest control
There are many types of garden strawberries (strawberries), however, the Khoney variety has long and firmly won the attention of gardeners. He not only has many positive qualities, but also serves as the subject of heated debate between his supporters and opponents. Whether it is worth planting this variety on your site is up to you.
History and characteristics of the variety
The Honey variety is no longer a newcomer to the market. It was bred in 1979 in America, it has been known to gardeners for a long time, but it was registered in the State Register of Breeding Achievements only in 2013. Long-term studies of the variety were carried out in the North Caucasus Federal Scientific Center for Horticulture, Viticulture, Winemaking, after which this plant was recommended for cultivation in the Central, Central Black Earth and North Caucasian regions of Russia.
Honey strawberry bushes are distinguished by straight, powerful stems and large leaves
The Honey bushes are erect and vigorous, with dark green leaves without shine. The berries are conical in shape with a neck. Juicy pulp with sweet and sour taste, no aroma.
The large fruits of the Honey Strawberry have a rich color and a well-defined neck.
If you are going to read about this variety in the State Register, do not look for the strawberry plant, it is not there. And Khonei, and Festivalnaya, and the well-known Zenga Zengana are varieties of garden strawberries, and strawberries are just the colloquial name of delicious berries, which has deeply entered into everyday life.
Since the Honey strawberry was obtained from two selected varieties - the mid-season, but very productive American Holiday and the early-maturing British Vibrant, it inherited the best qualities of both parents. This variety has the following positive characteristics:
- Early ripeness. The first fruits appear at the end of May (the north of the planting, the later, the period can vary within 1-2 weeks), the return of the fruits is amicable, lasts about half a month or a little more. Plants bear fruit once a season.
- Large-fruited. The berries weigh on average 16-18 g, but there are also larger ones, up to 30-35 g, especially in the first and second years of fruiting.
- High yield - up to 400-500 grams of berries from a bush or 105-115 kg from a hundred square meters. Fruits are formed in clusters of 10–12 pcs.
- Dense consistency of berry pulp and, as a result, good keeping quality and transportability. Some gardeners note that Honey can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week, that is, from one trip to the country on the weekend to the next, fruitful bushes will provide you with fresh berries. This is the advantage of the variety over sweeter and softer ones.
- High resistance to negative environmental factors. The variety tolerates well both winter frosts (it is possible not to cover it in winter in the southern regions), as well as droughts and heat, since it forms a powerful bush with a rich, large leaf rosette and developed roots.
- Versatility of use. This strawberry can be used to prepare a wide variety of stocks for the winter: preserves, jams, compotes. The latter will be perfectly stored and will not boil over due to the presence of acid in the fruits, as well as due to the good density of the berries.
Dense Honey Berries will keep intact in jam
Among the disadvantages of the variety, the most often mentioned are:
- The tendency of bushes to be affected by verticillary wilting.
- Sour taste of fruit. There is an explanation for this: berries contain a very large amount of vitamin C (67.6 mg per 100 g of fruits), so they are extremely useful fresh.
Video: Honey strawberry harvest ripens
Growing varieties in the open field
The Khonya variety does not require special measures for cultivation and care during the flowering and fruiting period.
Requirements for planting material
To achieve good yields, you should purchase quality planting material from a trusted vendor. Random purchases will give one result: you will spend time and money (compost, growth stimulants, etc.), risking not getting what you expected. Therefore, the first rule: approach responsibly when purchasing bushes for breeding.
Strawberry seedlings should have firm roots and brightly colored leaves without damage.
Even when purchasing seedlings in a nursery or from a breeder, pay attention to the condition of the seedlings: the roots should be elastic, not lethargic or dry, and the leaves should be free of spots and deformations. Wrinkled, folded foliage indicates that there is a tick on the plant and should not be acquired. Ideally, strawberry seedlings should have 5-6 rich green leaves and horns (annual shoots) 8-10 mm thick. Since the fruit buds of this variety are laid late, at the end of summer, the seedlings planted in the fall will have time to grow them, therefore, they will bear fruit the next year.
Site selection and soil preparation
For planting in the spring, plants are usually purchased, and in the fall they planted their own, divorced from the mother bushes. When planting strawberries in open ground, you should take into account the following points:
- It is better to prepare a garden bed for autumn planting in 2-3 weeks so that the earth settles and does not shrink after placing the bushes. Otherwise, the root collar of plants will be exposed and they may die. Before digging, fertilizers are applied at the rate of a bucket of humus, 70 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium nitrate per 1 sq. m.
- Strawberry prefers light soil - chernozem with an admixture of loam or sandy loam. Excess nitrogen is undesirable, plants will either fatten, giving an abundant leaf rosette to the detriment of the crop, or will burn out from ammonia. Fresh manure can be applied under the future bed in late autumn, and rotted manure - in the spring.
- The plant does not like cold winds and excessive moisture, therefore, it is better for it to choose well-drained soils with groundwater occurrence no closer than 1 m to the surface. This may be the south side of buildings, fruit tree plantations. An excellent option is a plot with a slight slope to the south.
- The best predecessors are garlic, onions, sorrel, peas, beans, radishes, corn. After nightshade and pumpkin, strawberries should not be grown. She doesn't like both the predecessor and fennel. Simultaneous planting along the edges of the plot or in the aisles of lettuce, spinach, parsley (scares away slugs), carrots will help scare off pests and promote better growth of strawberries. Onions, garlic and marigolds will help ward off the nematode.
The combination of onions and strawberries in the garden is beneficial for both plants.
Sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil. Planting strawberries after them is impossible, the site requires restoration within three to four years.
Planting garden strawberries
Disembarkation is carried out only in cloudy weather or in the evening. It is especially important to remember this when planting in spring, otherwise the bright sun will quickly destroy the plants. In addition, you need to pay attention to the following techniques:
- If a bush with an open root system is planted, then the roots are shortened to 10-12 cm and dipped in a nutritious mash made of clay, water and mullein. But since strawberries do not like to be disturbed during transplantation, the best option would be to plant plants with a closed root system (in special pots). So the bushes will not hurt and take root much faster. When planting in spring, to ward off pests, the roots can be treated with a salt solution, taking 40-50 grams (two tablespoons) in a bucket of water.
If the seedlings were grown in pots, then the roots of the plants are less injured when planting and the seedlings will take root faster.
- Planting pattern: 50-60 cm between rows, 20-25 between plants. It should not be forgotten that Khonya has large bushes, they should be given more room for growth and development, therefore, planting in a two-line way with a distance of 40 cm between lines and 15 cm between plants is not suitable for this variety.
- The planting hole is dug with a depth of 12-15 cm and of such a diameter that the roots of the plant are conveniently located in it, usually 25 cm. At the bottom of the hole, a small elevation is made from the soil mixed with complex fertilizer, the plant is set up vertically, the soil is poured almost to the top, watered 1 -1.5 liters of water and fill the hole completely. After that, the earth is compacted so that the plant, if pulled slightly, does not pull out.
The roots of the seedling need to be spread over an earthen mound so that they do not bend up
- When planting strawberries, make sure that the root collar is flush with the ground.
The root collar of the bush after planting and compaction of the soil should be flush with the ground
- It is recommended to mulch strawberry plantings with foil, sawdust, straw and other materials. In this case, the garden bed is watered again and covered with a layer of mulch about 10 cm thick. This agrotechnical measure will significantly reduce water consumption for irrigation, improve soil aeration due to its protection from drying out and help fight weeds. If the bed has not been mulched, planting strawberries is watered after 3-4 days and the soil is loosened, preventing the formation of a crust.
A layer of mulch protects the beds from drying out, slows down the growth of weeds and creates a barrier for slugs
Video: preparing seedlings for planting in the ground
Further cultivation is not laborious. The fertilizers applied under the bedding will be enough for two years, especially for those gardeners who prefer to do without the use of chemicals. It is recommended to feed strawberries three times a season with a solution of mullein (1 part to 10 parts of water) or chicken manure (1 to 20). It will also be useful to add ash (glass to bucket). It is better to refuse chemical fertilizers, since the berries are used fresh, right from the garden, and many gardeners grow crops for children and grandchildren.
Environmentally friendly cultivation of strawberries is necessary if the crop is eaten fresh immediately after harvest
Particular attention should be paid to soil moisture. This variety is responsive to frequent but moderate watering and does not like waterlogging.
Growing under film
To get a harvest two or even three weeks earlier, Honey strawberries can be planted under a film shelter:
- Plants are planted in autumn according to the usual pattern or slightly thickening in a row (20 cm between bushes).
- In the spring, a frame is made of arcs 50 cm high in the aerial part, on which the film is attached during the period when the strawberries begin to give their first leaves (in the south), and no later than mid-April in the central regions.
- Twine is pulled between the arcs so that the shelter does not sag. On the one hand, along the bed, the film is sprinkled with earth, and on the other, a wooden plank is screwed horizontally at a height of 20-25 cm, behind which the edges of the film will be wrapped when airing. It is better to lift the film from the north side, since on very hot and sunny days this shelter will also save you from the scorching rays.
- Watering is carried out 2-3 times a week, after which the soil is mulched.
- Be sure to ventilate the beds, otherwise in a humid and warm environment, spores of diseases, for example, gray rot, will quickly multiply.
- On fine days during the flowering of plants, the film is turned off almost completely so as not to interfere with insects pollinating strawberries.
- Remove the film after harvesting. In the next two to three years, strawberries in this garden are grown in the usual way without shelter.
The simplest film shelters allow you to accelerate the return of fruits by half a month
Video: foil shelter for strawberries
Honey shrubs bear fruit for four, maximum five years. Therefore, after you have acquired this variety, you should take care of the planting material for the future. Garden strawberries are propagated in three ways:
- rosettes that grow from a mustache;
- dividing the bush;
The first option is optimal for the Honey variety, because it is this strawberry that gives strong antennae with strong and viable rosettes. To acquire planting material, the following steps should be taken:
- Choose a large, healthy plant. It will be uterine. It is advisable that the bush grows at the edge of the site, where it is convenient to arrange pots or other containers for seedlings.
A powerful mother plant capable of producing many strong first-order rosettes
- To preserve the strength of the mother bush, all peduncles must be removed from it. There will be no berry harvest on it, but the rosettes (seedlings) will receive more nutrition from the main plant.
- You can simply root the sockets in the ground in the garden, but in this case, they need to be transplanted to a permanent place after abundant watering and with a large clod of earth, transshipment.
Rosettes rooted next to the mother bush will need to be moved to a permanent place so as not to thicken the planting
- Water the mother plant and care for it like the rest.
- When the bush begins to start up a mustache and the first rosettes from the mother plant (first order) form at their ends, you need to carefully monitor the appearance of roots. At this time, cups or pots with moistened soil or nutrient mixture (earth + peat + humus) should be substituted under the sockets.
When the roots appear at the outlets, you need to fix them in pots and wait for rooting.
- Young plants must be fixed so that they do not crawl out of the container with the growth of the mustache.
- As soon as the rosette is rooted and the next mustache begins to start, it should be cut off. For seedlings, it is better to take outlets of the first order. In addition, the mustache weakens the seedlings.
- When the rosette gives two or three fresh leaves, it can be separated from the mother bush and kept in a pot until transferred to a new place, not forgetting about sufficient watering and feeding.
By dividing the bush, they not only multiply, but also rejuvenate the plantings. The maternal, exhausted and aged plant is not taken for planting, but daughter bushes are separated, with leaves and roots of a lighter shade. Divide the bushes that are two or three years old.
Getting seedlings from seeds is usually a laborious and time-consuming procedure. Both seeds during germination and tiny seedlings need a special temperature regime, frequent ventilation, and hardening. It makes no sense to breed with seeds a variety that reproduces well with tendrils.
Diseases and pests of the variety
The Honey variety has an average immunity to diseases. An exception is verticillary wilting, which can affect plantings in warm, humid summers.
This fungal disease can manifest itself in different ways depending on the composition of the soil and weather conditions. The instant form affects the plants within a few days, the latent ailment may appear in a year or two.
Drying of the lower leaves is one of the characteristic signs. Plants are depressed, stunted, acquire a reddish tint and die. But even those bushes that do not die will look stunted and will not give good harvests. The fight against verticillium is possible, but its prevention is much more effective, and it consists of simple measures:
- Purchase healthy seedlings.
- Observe the crop rotation. Mustard and legumes as precursors, as well as siderates (vetch, lupine), help prevent the disease especially well.
- Carry out preventive spraying with Fundazol or biological products Trichophyte, Fitosporin before flowering.
This attack is also caused by the spread of fungal spores, the mycelium of which covers the berries with a fluffy coating. To prevent the disease from hitting strawberries, especially in a greenhouse, you need to follow these precautions:
- Choose the right landing site. Sunny, well-ventilated, without stagnant groundwater close to the earth's surface is the best option.
- Avoid thickening plantings.
- Avoid waterlogging of the soil.
- Mulch only with fresh mulch. Remove all last year's plant residues from the site and burn, because it is in them that pathogens winter.
- Spray with boric acid and potassium permanganate (2 g per bucket of water). This is both prevention and treatment at the first sign of illness.
Those who like to drink juice from young strawberry leaves are not uncommon in the beds, but you can fight them with folk remedies and agrotechnical measures:
- Do not thicken the planting.
- Water regularly, mulch, feed the plants so that they quickly gain strength, then they are not afraid of pests.
- Planting onions in the aisles, aphids do not like it.
- If the pest overcomes the plants, treat the strawberries with ash infusion (two glasses per bucket) with the addition of liquid soap.
Variety Honey - early ripening, chemical methods of pest control are not suitable for it.
Naked slugs are a serious problem for gardeners, as pests that go out to feed at night love ripe berries. Slugs eat holes in the fruit and completely spoil their presentation. And many people grow the Khonya variety for sale.
The following measures help to get rid of slippery pests:
- Pollination of strawberry plantings with sifted ash.
- Sprinkling between rows with sawdust, dry sand.
- Spray with a solution of vinegar and water (1 to 6).
Among gardeners, it was noticed that slugs are not indifferent to beer; there is a method of luring slugs in a container with a foamy drink.
Photo gallery: the main diseases and pests of the Honey Strawberry
Reviews of the gardeners who have tested the variety are more positive than negative.
If you are looking for an early ripening, cold and heat resistant, transportable strawberry variety - pay attention to the American selection of Honey. Perhaps this particular plant with pleasant sweet and sour fruits and eye-pleasing emerald leaves was lacking in your garden or berry.
Rate the article:
(0 votes, average: 0 out of 5)
Share with your friends!
Strawberry Lambada: a description of the berry variety and the rules of crop care
Strawberry Lambada: variety description, photos, reviews
Another strawberry variety developed by Dutch specialists is the Lambada strawberry. This variety is designed for those gardeners who grow strawberries in large areas, but do not always have time to care for a strawberry plantation. Other characteristics of Lambada strawberries, yield, ripening times and main positive qualities will be discussed below.
Breeding history of the variety
Dutch breeders have developed this strawberry variety for several years, gradually crossing among themselves some well-known strawberry varieties with the best characteristics of yield, disease and cold resistance. gardeners from around the world.
Photo of strawberry Lambada
This berry crop was recommended by the originators for cultivation in private farmsteads. It is not recommended to grow it on an industrial scale because of the average yield and a short keeping period of the harvested crop.
Strawberry Lambada: main characteristics and description of the variety
The Lambada strawberry variety is considered to be very early in terms of ripening of berries - the first ripe fruits can be harvested in the second decade of May, and the harvest is fully harvested no later than the last days of May.
Strawberry Lambada - video
Lambada bushes are tall, spreading. The foliage is large enough, but not too much, slightly wrinkled, dark emerald in color. The bushes produce strong, powerful stalks that grow taller than the leaves, so ripening strawberries will always be clean. The bushes develop a large number of whiskers, which is very important for those farmers who plant this variety annually.
The flowering of the Lambada variety is abundant, the flowers are large, with white petals and a yellow core.
Ripe fruits have a rounded-conical shape, not always the same. The size of the berries is larger than average, their weight is about 40 g. The color is deep red. The pulp is quite dense, has no voids, white specks, its color is bright red, with a pleasant strawberry aroma.
Important! In one place, the Lambada strawberries bear fruit well for 5 seasons, in the future the fruits become smaller, therefore, these berry plants must be transplanted to a new place.
The harvested crop is of universal use, the berries are eaten fresh, jam, jams or compotes are cooked. It can be frozen for the winter, while the taste of the fruit does not deteriorate.
However, the harvested berries do not tolerate transportation well, excreting juice. At the same time, the taste of the fruit deteriorates during transportation.
Bushes of the Lambada variety are highly resistant to cold weather and can withstand frosts down to -30 degrees Celsius. If the winters in the region are more severe, then the strawberry plantation should be covered.
Strawberry varieties! • Zephyr • Eliane • Marmalade Lambada strawberries are resistant to most diseases affecting other varieties of this berry crop, including verticillary wilt, heart rot, brown rot and brown spot.
Lambada strawberry yield
This variety has been zoned for cultivation in most Russian regions outdoors. A large number of ovaries form on the bushes, as a result, up to 2 kg of ripe delicious berries can be harvested from each bush, the sugar content of which is much higher than that of many other varieties of this berry culture.
A high yield is achieved from this strawberry already in the second season after planting.
Diseases and pests
Strawberries Lambada have a fairly high immunity, so the bushes practically do not get sick:
- verticillary wilt
- rotten heart
- brown rot
- brown spot.
However, resistance to powdery mildew for this variety is below average. Therefore, it is required for preventive purposes to treat bushes in spring and autumn with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.
Strawberry Lambada: cultivation techniques
Although these strawberries can be planted by dividing bushes and growing seedlings from seeds, but the most popular among farmers is planting Lambada with a mustache, which is formed in large quantities from the bushes of this berry crop. Important! Usually, the Lambada strawberry variety is propagated with a mustache at the end of summer, when the berries have been harvested for a long time.
The rosettes rooted from the mustache, you need to select those that are closest to the mother bush (usually only the first ones are taken for transplanting, the rest are removed). A site for planting such outlets is preliminarily prepared, it should be well-lit by the sun's rays, even and fertile enough.
If the soil is not too loose, river sand and humus are added to it. When planting seedlings, their hearts should not be buried - they should be 3-5 cm above the soil surface.
Since the Lambada bushes do not grow very much to the sides, the distance between the seedlings in a row is made no more than 0.4 m, and the row spacing should be such that it is convenient for the summer resident to care for the strawberry plantation.
Strawberry Lambada - photo
After planting, water the plants abundantly at the root, while trying to keep moisture out of the foliage. A layer of mulch should be laid around the bushes to prevent the soil from drying out quickly. Peat chips, humus, straw or well-rotted sawdust can be used as a mulching material.Important! Do not put fresh mullein or sawdust under the strawberry bushes.
Lambada strawberry care
Further care for the Lambada strawberry variety is pretty standard:
- watering the beds is carried out as the topsoil dries up. During the flowering period, the number of waterings is reduced to avoid the likelihood of fungal diseases. Water for irrigation should be settled and warm
- after each watering, be sure to loosen the soil around the bushes, while removing weeds
- this garden strawberry is practically not susceptible to most diseases, therefore it is recommended only to carry out preventive spraying of plants against fungal diseases and observe the irrigation regime. Of the pests, the Lambada variety is annoyed by birds and slugs.
- At the beginning of autumn, the foliage is cut off from the bushes, the last dressing containing phosphorus and potassium is applied. Also, for preventive purposes, plants and soil should be treated with a 2% solution of Bordeaux liquid. In regions with severe winters (with frosts below -30 degrees Celsius), the strawberry plantation is covered with spruce branches before the onset of cold weather.
How to properly care for strawberries
Feeding strawberries Lambada
Fertilizing is one of the important points in the care of this strawberry variety. The formation of ovaries, the size and taste of the berries and the preparation of the bushes for winter depend on how timely the fertilizers are applied.
Strawberry dressing is applied in the spring, during the growth of bushes, during the flowering period and after harvest. No fertilizer should be applied while the berries are ripening.
In the spring, mineral complex fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are applied under the bushes. This berry culture also responds well to the introduction of organic matter - to the introduction of infusions of cow manure, bird droppings and greenfinches.
Many gardeners feed strawberries and wood ash infusion once a season.Interesting! • How to get rid of aphids on currants You can combine top dressing "at the root" with fertilization "on the leaf", since this strawberry absorbs some of the minerals well through the foliage.
Advantages and disadvantages of the Lambada variety in comparison with others
The main advantages of the Lambada strawberry variety include:
- increased resistance to frost
- resistance to most diseases typical for other varieties of this berry crop
- great taste of ripe berries
- the bushes bear fruit even with a strong thickening of the strawberry plantation
- plants do not require special care
- berries are for universal use.
However, some of the disadvantages of the variety should also be mentioned - the fruits do not tolerate transportation well, they are not stored for a long time, and the bushes can be affected by powdery mildew, therefore it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of plants with special preparations.
Strawberry Lambada: reviews of those who planted
Some of the reviews of gardeners who grow Lambada strawberries in their garden plots should be cited.
Irina, 39 years old, Ryazan:
“This is not the first season I have been growing Lambada strawberries on my plot. I would like to note the good yield of this variety, undemanding to growing conditions, good formation of whiskers, high resistance to frost, therefore in my region I cover bushes for the winter only with straw or foliage. "
Natalia, 48 years old, Volgograd:
“Of all the early varieties of strawberries that I grew in my garden, I settled on the Lambada strawberry. In our region, the first berries of this strawberry appear already in mid-May, with regular fertilization from each Lambada bush, I collect at least 2 kg of ripe sweet strawberries. I partially freeze the harvest for the winter, cook delicious and aromatic jam, which my homemade people really like. "
Tatyana, 55 years old, Ulyanovsk:
"I would like to note the high resistance of this strawberry to disease and frost, therefore in our region the Lambada bushes in my garden grow without shelter and do not freeze, and are practically not affected by any diseases."
Oksana, 40 years old, Voronezh:
“I would like to note some of the advantages of the Lambada strawberry that grows in my garden. Even when it is impossible to thin out the bushes from the whiskers, a large number of ovaries still form on the bushes, and the yield from the thickening of the beds does not decrease. "
Marina, 52 years old, Engels:
“Early ripening of fruits, good taste, rather high yield - these are the main advantages of Lambada strawberries. And if the harvested crop could bear transportation well and could be stored for a long time, this berry culture would be just perfect. "
Among the many varieties of strawberries with early fruit ripening Lambada is one of the best due to the large size of berries, good taste and high yield. Therefore, this Dutch-bred strawberry has been popular with gardeners around the world for decades.
Hello dear gardeners and gardeners! My name is Olga Ivanovna, I am a summer resident with great experience. I love my garden with all my heart. I take constructive criticism with interest, I am always ready to discuss any questions.