Spirea trimming video - when and how to trim spirea
Ornamental shrubs are very convenient plants. They look good and require little maintenance. The main thing for them is pruning, which we will now do.
Why prune spireas?
First, the appearance is unpresentable in spirits after flowering. Secondly, the more you cut off the spirea, the more magnificent it becomes, this is natural. Moreover, if you prune the spirea somewhere in the middle of July, then by September it blooms again. You can simply cut the seeds off the spirea, or you can give it any shape.
And can I somehow incorrectly cut the spirea?
No, spirea is absolutely unpretentious. Absolutely! Spirea pruning is done depending on your desire. You can give the shape of a ball, you can give the shape of a triangle, you can - a square. Spirea is used for making hedges. If the branches are thick and dry at the bottom, it is better to prune them to thin out the plant a little. These spireas are distinguished by the fact that they bloom on new shoots that will grow now. The main thing is not to forget that white-flowering spirea (Japanese gray spirea) blooms on last year's shoots.
This, as I understand it, is she?
This is a gray spirea that blooms somewhere in mid to late May, early June. Therefore, you need to cut it off immediately after flowering. Immediately. Here the cut branches have already thickened and began to grow again. And in the spring it will be a gorgeous white bush. Now let's look at the spirea, which was trimmed a month ago.
Handsomely! Those. do you shape the spirea into a ball?
Yes, the shape of a ball, and, as you can see, the shoots will bloom again in a week. Spirea is a plant that can be pruned at any time.
Do you need to fertilize or perform any disinfecting procedures with spirea?
A small top dressing is recommended after each trimming.
So, and how to feed the spirea?
Mineral fertilizers. Complete. But a little. Although spiraea are mostly unpretentious plants, the species such as gray spirea are often attacked by snails. To prevent this from happening, treat it with phytosporin or phytoverm until the leaves appear, and repeat this procedure after flowering.
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The genus Spirea has from 80 to 100 species and each has its own name. In Russia, spirea has been called meadowsweet since ancient times. Varieties differ in the shape of inflorescences, a variety of color shades, and the type of leaves. The name of this plant comes from the Greek word speira (bend). Indeed, the slender shoots gracefully curve to form beautiful shrubs of lush green mass and vibrant flowers across the surface of the bush. Spirea is a perennial plant, so every year new branches appear and the bush becomes thicker. In some cases, without proper care, it rises above human height. This is an absolutely unpretentious plant. Unless with a lack of lighting, the color saturation of the inflorescences is slightly less, but even this does not detract from their beauty.
All spireas can be divided into two groups - spring-flowering and summer-flowering. Those that bloom in spring, after hibernation, resemble clumsy mastodons. Their flowers appear on two-year-old shoots. The latter begin to bloom in the middle of summer. Inflorescences are formed on young shoots of the first year or on new lateral processes of the second year. Last year's branches coarsen and subsequently dry up. Also differ in shades of inflorescences. Summer flowers have pleasant pink and red hues.
In the spring, before everyone else, it blooms and begins to delight the summer resident Spirey Gray - the most popular flower due to its unpretentiousness and grace. Many experts still argue: are Spirea flowers or a shrub? Spirea Gray, like a rose, is a harmonious combination of both properties. This magnificent shrub is so lush that a neighbor passing by will not be able to see anything through it. The shoots of the spirea are powerful and flexible, dense and dense inflorescences of small white flowers are formed on the tops of the branches. And when the whole bush blooms, it looks a lot like a lush wedding veil. It is not for nothing that the people call her "the bride". The incomparable honey scent attracts bees, bumblebees and other insects that contribute to pollination.
Here are some more spring flowering varieties. Thin, graceful branches of Spirea Sharp-toothed, also called Arguta, are scattered in all directions. It has small, green leaves with jagged edges that resemble a saw. Looks very harmoniously alone on the lawn. The flowers are white, up to 8 mm in diameter, in numerous umbellate inflorescences tightly fitting the shoots. This shrub grows rather slowly - about 20 cm per year. Alpine Spirea, Thunberg Spirea also bloom in the spring. They are all similar to each other, but differ only in the shape of the leaves and the size of the inflorescences.
Japanese spirea was bred by Japanese and Chinese gardeners many centuries ago. It is a small shrub with bright, pink flowers and inflorescences. Japanese spirea blooms for about 2 months. The leaves are bright green, but they change their color closer to autumn. It tolerates frost well.
Various hybrid varieties with all sorts of color shades, bush sizes, leaf shapes and structures have been created over the years. For example, Spirea Bumalda is a hybrid between Japanese and white spirea with a shade of flowers from pale pink to dark red. It is a short shrub, only 70 cm, with a spherical crown and erect branches. Leaves are smooth, up to 8 cm in length. The flowering time is about 2 months.
Billard's Spirea is a frost-resistant hybrid between the spreading Douglas Spirea and Ivolistnaya Spirea, has wide leaves 10 cm long, felt from below to the touch, and smooth above. It blooms after July and before the first frost. It takes root well in shaded areas, but blooms more abundantly in more illuminated areas.
Pruning spirea in the fall: a diagram. Spirea care in autumn
Very often, on personal plots, you can see a beautiful ornamental shrub - spirea. Sometimes it is a lonely flowering bush, and in some cases it is a whole ridge in the form of a hedge. Most often, white spirea is found, but there are a lot of modern plant varieties. Like any ornamental plant, spirea requires special care. If you decide to get one, then you should know what to do with the spirea in the fall. This is what will be discussed in our article. You will find out how to cut spirea in the fall and according to what scheme.
How and when to trim spirea
Someone transfers pruning to the spring, so as not to injure the shrub before wintering, other gardeners believe that the autumn haircut, on the contrary, increases the plant's resistance to low temperatures. According to professionals, the procedure is effective in any season. Each gardener himself determines when to cut meadowsweet, based on his own capabilities and the condition of the shrub. The benefits of pruning:
- the bush is well ventilated
- a thinned plant gets more sunlight
- the density of the bush increases (important when forming hedges)
- strengthens immunity to infections and pests
- the appearance of the bush improves
- pruning stimulates green mass growth and bud formation.
The plant responds positively to shearing regardless of the variety and growing season. If you remove faded shoots in July, early flowering varieties will delight you with re-flowering in September. In total, there are 3 types of shrub pruning: formative, rejuvenating and preventive. An autumn haircut is carried out no earlier than 15 days before the onset of frost, so that the cut sites have time to tighten, in the spring - before bud break.
|Forming a bush||A haircut can be carried out from the second or third year, so that the meadowsweet has a well-groomed appearance, cut the shoots protruding from the total green mass every year. Make sure that the maximum length of cut stems does not exceed a third of the length of the annual growth. From the age of 4 or 5, cut the shoots in half.|
|Spirea rejuvenation||Annual (moderate) rejuvenation is carried out every 2 or 4 years (preferably in the first half of September). Cut off all stems 25–35 cm from the ground. If necessary, when the plant is more than 7 years old, you can radically rejuvenate the bush by cutting it onto a stump (leave short stems with two or three buds).|
|Preventive pruning (against diseases and pests)||Prune all wilted, dry, and diseased branches to a healthy bud. Also, shoots that have not overwintered are subject to cutting, carry out the procedure as early as possible so that they do not take food from young branches.|
Aging or neglect of meadowsweet can be judged by the presence of a large number of old branches and the almost complete absence of young growth. In critical cases, when the plant is severely affected by the disease, remove the branches to the level of the root collar, without leaving even short stumps. Buds from damaged parts of the bush will give weak and thin shoots. Check out the technology and pruning scheme in the fall:
- strong, young stems of the past or current year do not need to be completely cut, shorten them. An exception is extra shoots growing inside the crown.
- the lifespan of the shoots is 5 years, remove the old branches completely. On each shrub, regardless of the variety, there should be more young branches than old ones, then the plant will be the most attractive and resistant to various adverse factors
- on young stems, remove non-lignified tips, and also cut off any dried inflorescences.
It will take several years to form a really beautiful bush. In order not to get confused in the types of cropping, use the universal scheme. For the third season after planting, leave 5 or 6 of the best branches, remove the rest completely. After the first flowering, cut off only weakened and old shoots, you will get a strong and reliable base for the future shrub.
Pruning early flowering varieties
The flowering period occurs in May, in rare cases it begins from the first days of summer, inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the last year, they are located along the entire length of the shoots. Plants tend to grow a very large number of shoots, which is why they require the obligatory cutting of some of the branches. In autumn, remove (up to the root collar) at least a quarter of all shoots.
Do not forget that flower buds are laid on the shoots of the current year. In order not to spoil the appearance of meadowsweet, cut off annual increments by a third of the length, such a procedure will be the key to more lush flowering. Cut branches with weak branching in half, remove a third of the length from each side stalk. In the spring, only frozen branch tips can be removed.
Pruning »late-flowering varieties
The flowering period is July-August, buds are formed on growing branches. Numerous observations show that the more shoots are removed from such varieties in the fall, the more luxuriant the bush will be for the next season. Cut off all weak branches completely, and in spring or early autumn, remove excess shoots, leaving no more than 3 buds of stumps.
Meadowsweet, blooming in summer, responds very well to moderate rejuvenation. However, these varieties age faster than early flowering varieties, so critical stump pruning will not give the desired result. Do not wait for the strong aging of the bush, since after 13 years, decorativeness is rapidly lost, uproot it, plant a young seedling of the same variety.
Care after pruning
Remove debris and weeds around the bush, water the plant and apply fertilizer. Be careful, complex feeding is recommended at the beginning of the growing season or until mid-summer. In the fall, it is advisable not to apply fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers, the bush is preparing for a dormant period, and additional feeding will disrupt this process. In extreme cases, when the plant is weakened from the disease, add a phosphorus-potassium mixture under the root according to the instructions.
How to care for spirea
Spirea, regardless of its variety, is a rather unpretentious plant that can grow in one place for decades. It does not require transplants, does not need frequent watering and tolerates frost well. I do not cover the spireas, except that I sprinkle the roots with dry foliage, just in case of severe frosts.
Like any plant, spirea needs sunlight and air access to the roots, so it should not be planted in dense shade. It is best to choose a place that will be illuminated by the sun in the morning. The northern corners of the garden are not for spirea.
The spirea needs to be weeded - both for air access to the roots, and simply so that the grass does not spoil the decorative effect of the shrub. After weeding, the soil must be loosened, only carefully so as not to damage the roots.
If the summer is dry, the spirea needs to be watered, but this should be done infrequently - about once a week. It is not necessary to fill the shrub too much, the roots of the spirea do not like excessive moisture.
This, perhaps, boils down to caring for the spirea. As I said, the plant is unpretentious, and will feel great even with minimal maintenance.
By the way, it should be canceled that not only flowers, but also leaves look very decorative in spirea. Given their variety of shapes, colors and sizes, even those bushes that have already faded look great if their crown is beautifully shaped and pruned with a sharp pruner. Spirea bushes can take any, the most diverse form. It all depends on the pruning.
Landing - how to do everything on time?
Spiraea is best grown using cuttings.... Weak shoots grow from seeds, do not take root well and do not bloom abundantly enough. Hybrid varieties may not emerge at all.
You need to prepare for planting at the end of summer. For cuttings, take annual shoots with a slightly hardened bark. Cut 10 centimeters into pieces so that 3 or 4 leaves remain on them. If there are side shoots on the branch, they must be cut in half, and the leaves from the main trunk must be removed completely. For initial rooting, you can plant the cuttings in plastic containers, for example, from plastic bottles or in another suitable container and cover them with transparent caps, you can from the same bottles or a glass jar.
Planting an annual spirea shoot
Place these containers in the garden, in the shade and keep until the onset of cold weather. Spirea loves moist soil, so it is necessary to periodically moisten the earth in cups. In late autumn, when the garden will be preparing for winter, but the frost has not yet come, you need to dig in the already slightly rooted cuttings somewhere in a convenient place. How to mulch and cover with a box so that the snow covers the seedlings in winter like a fur coat and does not freeze. In the spring it will already be possible to transplant ready-made seedlings for permanent residence.
Japanese spirea can be propagated by layering using exactly the same technology as ordinary garden strawberries. A young shoot with leaves is taken and pressed to the ground so that one or more buds are in the ground. Attach it with something so that the tip of the branch looks up. By the fall, roots will grow from the buds in the ground and it will be possible to transplant a ready-made bush to another place. After the final planting, the spirea should be watered abundantly. The soil around the roots must be loosened for better oxygen access to the roots and covered with mulch on top so that weeds do not develop and interfere with the growth of spirea.
SPIRIA JAPANESE "MACROPHILLA"
Japanese spirea "Macrophylla" Spiraea japonica Macrophylla
The most powerful and fastest growing variety of Japanese spirea. One of the best decorative deciduous spirits. Reaches up to 1.5 m in height and 1.5 m in diameter.Differs in large, up to 20 cm long and 10 cm wide, swollen wrinkled leaves, which, when blooming, are purple-red, later green, and in autumn acquire golden yellow tones ... If in May, when budding, this shrub is cut to 6-10 cm from the soil level, then the young growing shoots all summer in the upper part will have a constantly bright color, resembling flowers from a distance. Pink flowers in small inflorescences are lost among the variegated foliage. Blooms from late July to mid-August. It belongs to the group of summer flowering spirits. The flowers are pale pink. Flowering begins in July and lasts until cold weather. Starting from the fourth year, it is recommended that every spring cut the entire upper part of the bush at a height of 30 cm from the ground. Growing fast. Requires a formative and rejuvenating pruning every few years.
It develops better in full sun or in partial shade. It blooms weakly in the shade, and the shoots lignify more slowly. It tolerates all garden soils, but prefers fertile moderately moist, drained soils of slightly acidic and neutral reaction more. Landing in places protected from the wind. The planted plants require shading from the bright sun. Annual spring pruning is recommended to keep the bushes more compact and to form stronger shoots.
In the first years of life, and especially in the year of planting, it is advisable to cover all spireas, regardless of the species. With age, the plants become more hardy, their winter hardiness increases, and, if the climate permits, shelter can be abandoned. In case of frost damage, spiraea quickly recovers due to its high shoot-forming ability. But flowering in such a year will be weak. In our climatic zone, the best natural insulation is snow. But due to the fact that winters in recent years have become more and more unpredictable, it is necessary to protect the plant from the influence of snowless frosts. Before the onset of frost, it is advisable to loosen the soil around the bush, and then sprinkle it, pouring a mound about 20 cm high into the center.For this purpose, it is better to bring the earth from the garden, and additionally mulch the trunks with peat or well-decomposed compost. Tie the branches so that they do not break under the weight of the snow, and bend them to the ground, having previously laid burlap, leaves or other insulating material under them. In this position, the shoots are fixed with metal brackets, and then the entire structure is covered with a layer of insulation. Only with the onset of stable cold weather, when the plant finishes its growing season, can we begin to shelter it. If all the steps to prepare for winter are performed correctly, wintering will go well, and in the spring there will be abundant and lush flowering.
It is used for single and group plantings, borders, creating edges and tree-shrub groups, tamping taller bushes. It makes a spectacular impression in the ridges, as a hedge. A curtain of spirits of different species and varieties will allow to extend flowering from May to September, and the use of varieties with decorative leaves will make such a composition elegant throughout the season, including late autumn. Large group plantings of spirea, lilacs and mock-mushrooms with tamping bulbs, lilies of the valley, primroses, astilbe, and curb summers are spectacular. Such a group of plants will be blooming and very decorative from early spring to late autumn. In the near-trunk circles of the spirea, carpets of ground cover perennials will be appropriate: a brilliant dark green periwinkle, a yellow-motley saxifrage of a shady, painted ash-tree. Looks good with conifers, other spireas, barberries, cinquefoil, lavender, St. John's wort, etc. Excellent border plant. It is used to create low hedges, complex flower gardens, alpine slides.