Deadon Savoy Cabbage: How To Grow Deadon Cabbages

Deadon Savoy Cabbage: How To Grow Deadon Cabbages

By: Mary Ellen Ellis

The Deadon cabbage variety is a striking, late season savoy with an excellent flavor. Like other cabbages, this is a cold season vegetable. It will get even sweeter if you let a frost hit it before harvesting. Deadon cabbage growing is easy and will provide you with a tasty, versatile cabbage for fall and early winter harvest.

Deadon Cabbage Variety

The Deadon cabbage variety is really more of a partial savoy. It is similar to the cultivar known as January King, with leaves that are not as crinkly as a savoy but not as smooth as a ball head variety.

Like savoy types, Deadon leaves are tender and more delicate than they appear. They are easier to eat raw than the smooth, thick leaves of a ball head cabbage and have a lovely sweet flavor. You can easily enjoy the leaves fresh in a salad, but they also stand up to being pickled in sauerkraut, stir fried, or roasted.

The color of Deadon savoy cabbage is also unique. It grows as a striking purplish magenta color. As it unfurls its outer leaves, a lime green head reveals itself. This is a great eating cabbage but can be decorative as well.

How to Grow Deadon Cabbages

Deadon cabbage growing is simple if you follow the general rules for cabbages: fertile, well-drained soil, full sun, and regular watering throughout the growing season. Deadon takes about 105 days to mature and is considered a late cabbage.

With a long maturity period, you can actually start these cabbages as late as June or July, depending on your climate. Harvest the heads after the first one or two frosts, as this will make the flavor even sweeter. In milder climates you can start Deadon in the fall for a spring harvest.

Watch out for pests in the summer. Cutworms, flea beetles, aphids, and cabbageworms can be damaging. Blast aphids off leaves with a hose and use row covers to protect against larger pests. The Deadon variety is resistant to the fungal disease fusarium wilt and fusarium yellows.

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Deadon Cabbage Variety – Lærðu um Deadon Cabbage Growing

Deadon hvítkál fjölbreytni er sláandi, seint á vertíðinni með framúrskarandi bragð. Eins og önnur hvítkál er þetta grænmeti með köldu tímabili. Það verður enn sætara ef þú lætur frost berast á það áður en þú uppskerur. Auðvelt er að rækta Deadon-hvítkál og veita þér bragðgott, fjölhæft hvítkál fyrir haust og snemma vetraruppskeru.


Several types of caterpillar live only on Brassicas and can strip a young plant to the midribs in a short time. They are different species, but have the same feeding habits and can be dealt with together. Entomologists call them the Cabbageworm complex. They include:

Imported Cabbageworms - The larvae of the white butterflies often seen flying around the garden.

Cabbage Loopers - These arch their bodies as they move along and may sometimes also feed on tomato, cucumber, and potato. The adult is a nocturnal brown moth.

Cabbage Webworm- These are easy to spot with their tan body and four strips running along the length of the body. These webworms are found nestled on the margins of leaves.

Diamondback Moth- This cabbageworm feeds off the mustard and cole family, including cabbage and broccoli. The moth is brown with hints of yellow.

The caterpillars of all of these species may be found chewing their way across Brassica leaves. If you have only a few plants, hand picking is the best way to go.

If you have a whole field then a spray of B. T. is most often recommended.

Parasitic wasps and other predators will kill a lot of caterpillars if given the chance, but not if you start spraying poisons. Encourage them with the usual pollen and nectar bearing flowers. Red Cabbage is not as attractive to caterpillars as the green, though it is more attractive to aphids.

Image: R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company Slide Set, R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company,

Wendy Van Wagner, the owner of In the Kitchen Cooking School, along with Joe Meade, an instructor at the school, teach you how to make lacto-fermented sauerkraut with a Harsch fermenting crock.

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Requirements for Growing Cabbage in Containers


Do not place the container at a shady spot, as it will slow down the growth of the plant. Adequate sunlight is necessary if you are looking for large heads. Six or more hours of direct sunlight a day can do wonders for the cabbage growth! If the sunlight is intense in your region, you can also grow cabbage in partial sunlight.

With cabbages, you need to be a little careful with the soil. A quality, light potting mix, which is rich in humus and slightly clayey is going to do wonders for its growth! Cabbages grow best in moist soil, so choosing a substrate that holds some moisture, but also drains well, is always a good idea. Adding 1/4 part peat moss or coco peat in the potting mix is going to seal the deal! You can also use homemade potting soil, the recipes are here!


Watering cabbages regularly is the key, as they require moist soil to grow well. Do make sure that you’re never letting the soil grow dry when the seedling is maturing. The best way is to check the topsoil with your finger. If it’s dry 1 inch, water the plant. Overwatering also impedes its growth, which must be avoided.

Cabbage Root Maggot

This small (1/4") gray fly lays its eggs in the soil at the base of Brassica plants. When the larvae hatch they work their way down to the roots and tunnel into them. They live in the roots for 3 - 4 weeks and then go in to the soil to pupate. If enough maggots get into a root they will severely stunt or kill the plant (they also make root crops inedible).

Usually the first symptom of infestation is that the plant wilts in sunny weather, even though it has lots of water. If this occurs, examine the root for the small white maggots, which look like small grains of rice.

This the worst Brassica problem I have encountered and prevention is much easier than trying to cure infested plants. The easiest way to deal with these pests is to use row covers, which prevents the fly getting near enough to the plant to lay eggs.

An effective control is to use 6˝ squares (or disks) of foam carpet backing. You cut a slit to the center of the square and put them around the stem. These work very well, because the foam can expand as the stem enlarges. These disks not only make it harder for the fly larvae to get into the root, but also provide refuge for predatory beetles that eat the eggs and larvae. These disks have achieved 70% control, which is as good as most pesticides. You don’t have to eliminate all of these maggots. Some damage is tolerable as long as it doesn’t seriously affect the crop.

Image: Mary Ann Hansen, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,

Wendy Van Wagner, the owner of In the Kitchen Cooking School, along with Joe Meade, an instructor at the school, teach you how to make lacto-fermented sauerkraut with a Harsch fermenting crock.

Watch the video: These Are The Wonderful Health Benefits Of Savoy Cabbage