7 ways you might not know about planting potatoes
Potatoes are the second bread, therefore, planting is taken seriously, because the yield depends on the method and place of burying the tubers.
Under the straw
Since autumn, the land is plowed so that the roots of the grass remain outside. If this method is not used for the first time, the soil is dug with the straw that has served the season. With this approach, in the spring, the summer resident will have moist, loose soil, generously fertilized with humus. Tubers are simply laid out on it, observing a distance of 35-40 cm between root crops. The planting potatoes are covered with a twenty-centimeter layer of straw on top to inhibit the growth of weeds and retain moisture in the soil. Also, there is no need for loosening and hilling. Dry stalk flooring can be added instead of straw. The disadvantage of this method is the spread of rodents under the substrate.
Under the film
The film is spread directly on the ground or pulled over the frame. The plowed and fertilized area is covered with dark polyethylene, in which cross-shaped cuts are made in a checkerboard pattern. The length of the cut is 10 cm. A sprouted tuber is placed in each hole. Due to the fact that the dark surface attracts sunlight, the soil under it quickly warms up, potato seedlings actively develop and grow. If early varieties are used, the crop is harvested at the end of July. Before harvesting, the branches of the plant are mowed and the film is rolled. Then they collect a bountiful harvest from the ground, since the method promotes the development of a branched root system. This method frees from weeding and hilling plantings, but in a dry summer it makes watering difficult.
The method is suitable for areas that need to save space, and for summer cottages with unfavorable conditions - the bags move freely to places that are more successful this season. Small breathable bags are suitable for the method. Their edges are bent and filled with nutritious soil to a height of 20-25 cm. Several germinated tubers are planted in the soil and covered with a twenty-centimeter layer of earth. A soft container is placed in a sunny, windless place and strengthened to avoid falling. As the potatoes grow, the edges of the bag are folded back, filled with soil, watered. Being in bags, tubers do not rot even in a rainy summer, they do not need to be weeded and huddled, but you should stock up on a sufficient amount of fertile soil.
Under the shovel
The site is pre-plowed, then planting begins. To make the rows even, a rope is pulled across the site, fixed on pegs. Along this line, after 30-35 cm, holes are dug, tuber and fertilizers are laid in them. When a new depression is formed, the excavated soil goes to cover the seedling in the previous one. After passing the row, the "marking" is rearranged by 70 cm and a new one is started. Finish the planting by leveling the area with a rake in order to retain moisture. The resulting plantation is weeded, watered and loosened during the summer. It is important for this method to choose a planting time so that the soil has time to warm up, and the spring moisture has not left. Moreover, its main drawback is the inability to assess the condition of the soil in a rainy or dry summer.
Into the ridges
With clay or waterlogged soil, potatoes are planted in self-made elevations - ridges. They are cut by a mechanized method or formed by hand when planting at a distance of 70 cm. In the hole at the top of the ridge, fertilizing is applied and the tuber is planted. When the potatoes rise, they spud it several times, remove the weeds. When carrying out such a procedure manually, skill is required so as not to damage the roots, therefore, most often it is carried out using technology.This method provides aeration and oxygenation of the root system, increases the availability of sunlight, and minimizes manual labor. But it involves the frequent use of chemicals against diseases and pests.
Near the wall
A layer of humus is poured onto the support on the south side, into which the tubers are planted. When the shoots begin to grow, a layer of soil is poured in, imitating hilling. The bed turns out to be high and warm. Potatoes grow well and require only regular watering. A significant advantage of this method is that there is no need to plan a place on the site for a potato plantation. You can use the area near the house or fence, where, as a rule, nothing grows.
In a barrel
Planting in deep containers forms a multi-tiered root system with a large number of root crops. Plastic or metal containers are suitable as containers, and even car tires stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the barrel is cut out and holes are drilled in the walls - for better air exchange and removal of excess moisture. Fertile soil is poured to a height of 20 cm. Several tubers are planted so that they do not interfere with the neighboring ones. As the shoots grow, add earth. Additional, sprouted root crops are placed on the poured layers in order to increase productivity and maximize the use of the area of u200b u200bthe container. Since the concentration of seedlings is high, the soil in the barrel is regularly flavored and watered. There are about a hundred methods of planting potatoes, so each gardener chooses the most suitable one for his area or tries several and compares the yield.
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TOP 8 methods of planting potatoes: traditional and innovative methods
Potatoes are a vegetable crop, the planting of which marks the last spring month. By the way, how do you plant potatoes? If this question puzzles you, if you still think that there is only one method of implementing this ubiquitous garden phenomenon, then you have come to the right place. There are many ways to throw potato tubers into the ground. So much so that you have to think carefully about which one to choose.
Planting potatoes in spring in bags and boxes
You can also plant potatoes in spring and in barrels, boxes and even bags. To implement this method of planting potatoes in your area, you need to install containers for vegetables in a lighted place. Further, the landing process itself occurs according to the following principle:
- A layer of humus with a height of 30 cm is laid out on the bottom of the container
- Potato tubers are laid out in a layer of humus
- 4-5 tubers are placed in each container at a distance of 25 cm from each other
- From above, the planting is covered with earth, then humus and compost
- Potato plantings are well watered.
With this method of planting, you can achieve a fairly good harvest. The main thing is that, as the shoots germinate, the summer resident does not miss the moment and timely pours the peat mixture into the container. It is necessary to water containers with potatoes several times throughout the summer. And the most important thing is not to miss the watering periods at the time of the budding culture. It will be possible to harvest potatoes after the spring planting after the buds have faded.
Planting potatoes in the spring in sawdust
For germination of potatoes, many summer residents actively use the method of immersing planting material in sawdust. In this case, sawdust for sprouting potatoes must be wet. Today, it is quite easy to purchase such material in pet stores. To plant potatoes on sawdust, you must first steam them and then cool them. After that, the prepared material must be laid out on the bottom of the plastic container with a layer of about 2 cm. On top of the sawdust layer, carefully lay out the potato tubers quite tightly and always down with their eyes. Then a layer of sawdust is again laid on top of the tubers and the procedure is repeated several times. As soon as everything is finished, you need to cover the container with potatoes with plastic wrap and put it in a sunny place. Periodically thereafter, it is necessary to check the potato sprouts and prevent the sawdust from drying out. To prevent the latter from planting potatoes, you need to spray with a spray bottle. As a rule, many summer residents use this method of sprouting potatoes on the eve of spring planting. Well, as soon as the time comes for planting the sprouted potatoes, it remains only to carefully translate the material and also carefully plant it in the summer cottage. Moreover, the sawdust from under the potatoes can later be used for mulching the earth.
Planting potatoes in the spring according to Fokin
Some gardeners have tried out on their own experience another effective method of planting potatoes. This idea belongs to the engineer-inventor Fokin. It was this man who came up with the idea of planting potatoes in an unconventional way using a special tool. In appearance, it resembles a cane with a round device, where two boards are cut in at a distance of 12 cm. To plant potatoes in the spring in this way, you need to do this: press on the stop and make holes in the ground with a tool at a distance of about 25 cm from each other and at about the same distance from the edge of the garden. By applying force, the depth of the hole can be changed, but this is if the potato tubers are too large. This method has several advantages. firstly, a summer resident can independently plant a vegetable in the ground in the spring. Secondly, for filling potatoes, you do not need too much soil, therefore, the maximum access of oxygen to the roots is ensured.
Planting potatoes in spring on agrofibre and under film
One of the best ways to plant potatoes in the spring is to plant them under film. In this case, the vegetable must be planted in a smooth way, that is, after planting, it is imperative to level the soil with a rake. After that, you should already pull the film over the landings. By using the film, the ground warms up well, moisture is retained in it and potato sprouts are reliably protected from frost. The only drawback of this planting method is that polyethylene does not allow oxygen to pass through, therefore, it is recommended to ventilate the planting plant from time to time to avoid overheating. The same is true for growing potatoes on agrofibre or spunbond. For this, agrofibre is spread on the ground. In the places where potatoes are planted, cuts are made with a cross, into which the potatoes are then embedded.
More details about another unconventional method of planting potatoes in the spring will be discussed in this video. If you liked the material, be sure to leave your comments.
Characteristics of potatoes
Potatoes are divided according to the length of the growing season:
- for early, forming a harvest in 80-90 days
- medium early, tubers are harvested in 100-115 days
- medium, the harvest of which takes a period of 115-125 days
- medium late, with a growing season of 125-140 days
- late, the formation of the crop of tubers which takes more than 140 days.
The length of the warm season determines the group of potato varieties that are preferred in the region. It is pointless to grow late potatoes in areas where the warm season lasts 2-4 months. But the division into groups does not solve the issues of the quality of the crop and its use for preparing various dishes.
Within each group, priority is given to varieties that differ in economic (taste, starch content, pulp color) and biological characteristics (yield, keeping quality, shape of tubers, resistance to pests and diseases, etc.). Each variety corresponds to botanical characteristics (stems, leaves, flowers, etc.), according to which, in the field, it is possible to clearly separate varieties and remove the variety.
In the Russian Federation and the CIS, more than 2000 varieties of potatoes have been bred, but about 200 zoned varieties and hybrids are actively used in planting. There is still no universal variety that does not depend on climatic and soil conditions. In order to be with your fresh potatoes throughout the warm season, 2-4 varieties are planted in the garden with the desired economic characteristics of different ripening periods (early middle ones, etc.).
There are a few rules to follow when buying seed potatoes. One of them is not to buy stuff from random vendors. Packaged seed potatoes. © Seed Savers
Surely there are many ways to grow potatoes early, we present to your attention three of the most popular and proven ones.
Landing under the ridges
This is not the best way, it allows you to start planting work no earlier than the soil warms up to 8 degrees. But even a week stolen from rough weather matters. The combs need to be cut in the fall, since if you do this in the spring you will have to wait until they warm up in the sun. After the snow melts, the top layer of soil on autumn hillocks heats up quickly.
We put a layer of organic material in the groove between the two ridges - preferably rotted manure, but if it is not there, compost or rotted straw will come off. Lay the potatoes on the organic layer with their sprouted eyes upwards, slightly pressing them into the surface of the substrate, and sprinkle them with a thin layer of humus, about 2-3 cm. Take the upper, well-heated layer of earth from the surface of the soil and sprinkle our planting with a layer of 5-8 cm.
The remaining soil from the ridges will be used as the soil warms up for hilling potatoes. Hilling will have to be done more than with conventional cultivation as the potatoes germinate. At the end of the season, the entire ridge will move to the potatoes.
Northern weather is insidious, frosts are possible after the emergence of seedlings. Cover the planting with lutrastil or agrofibre, if you have enough of them, if not, put the tops in the groove and sprinkle with earth from the ridges. When the frost has passed, and the sun comes out, she will stretch herself up.
Planting potatoes under the covering material
Spunboard or agrofibre can be used as a covering material for early planting of potatoes. They easily protect plants at minus 5 degrees, and denser and more expensive varieties can keep the temperature even lower. They are lightweight and easy to use, they allow heat and moisture to pass through, and they have been used for many years. Their only drawback is the cost - after all, in order to cover a potato field, a lot of material is needed.
Before planting potatoes, it would be good to warm up the soil. To do this, cover the soil with cardboard, old newspapers, or even better with black plastic wrap or black agrofibre. If we plant the tubers in pre-warmed soil, we will save a few more days.
Growing potatoes under straw
The beauty of this method is that it does not require loosening the soil. You can make shallow grooves or slightly loosen the soil with a rake, but many gardeners don't even do that.
The potatoes are laid out on the heated soil in even rows and sprinkled a little with heated soil, rotted humus or compost. A layer of hay or last year's straw 20-30 cm thick is laid on top.The advantages of such planting of potatoes are obvious:
- If necessary, to collect young potatoes, you do not need to dig out the entire bush, on which there will be many more small, not edible tubers. It is enough to stick your hand into the straw and collect as many tubers as you need, and of the desired size.
- Harvesting is very easy - you just need to turn the straw over with a pitchfork.
- It is much easier for sprouts to germinate through straw than through soil.
- No weeds, therefore we get rid of weeds.
- Straw holds moisture well, watering will be significantly reduced.
- Straw, continuing to slowly rot, will provide potatoes not only with warmth, but also with useful substances.
There were also some drawbacks here, but they are not as significant as the advantages:
- In windy areas, the straw will have to be fixed somehow so that it is not scattered by the wind.
- You need to take straw somewhere, you may have to buy it, and this is additional material costs.
- An area filled with straw will look ugly. I think you can survive this.
The yield of potatoes depends largely on the method of planting.
Standard Shovel Landing (Traditional or Flat)
- The plantation dug up in the fall is harrowed with a rake, leveling the surface as much as possible.
- Rows are marked with a rope, given that the average distance between them should be 0.7 meters.
- With a shovel, they dig a hole up to 8 cm deep, into which a handful of ash and the same amount of humus are poured.
- Lay the tuber sprouts up and cover it flush with the soil surface.
- The interval between the holes is kept at 30 cm.
Watch the video! Planting potatoes under a shovel
Important! This method is considered unsuitable if the site is characterized by high humidity due to aquifers close to the surface. It is also not recommended in the presence of significant elevation differences that cause the accumulation of atmospheric precipitation in the lowlands.
Dutch Ridge Planting Technology
In areas with heavy loamy soil, as well as with a close location of groundwater, the technique of planting potatoes in pre-prepared ridges is used.
- They are poured in the direction from north to south with a height of at least 15 cm, the width of which varies in the range from 35 to 45 cm. The distance between the ridges is 0.7 meters.
- The holes are made at the top of the ridge at intervals of 30 cm.
- During hilling, the soil is taken from the aisles, excluding damage to the plants.
Important! This method is not practiced on light sandy loam soils, which dry out quickly, slowing down the growth of plants.
In warm regions, in areas with light sandy loam soils without signs of a close location of aquifers:
- In the fall, trenches are dug up to 25 cm deep, maintaining an average distance of 0.7 m for honey.
- Pour dry grass with a layer of about 10 cm, add a little rotted manure and ash.
- In the spring, the tubers are placed in these furrows at intervals of 30 cm and covered with soil.
- After watering, mulch the surface with chopped straw.
- You can cut trenches to a depth of 15 cm and in the spring, laying in them rotted compost with a layer of up to 5 cm.
This method allows you to retain moisture for longer, providing the tubers with good conditions for germination.
The method of the American scientist Mitlider is based on the arrangement of permanent beds about 45 cm wide and 80 cm apart.
Important! When preparing the site, only the soil of the beds is subject to digging, and the aisles remain intact.
If you want to strengthen the edges of the beds in the presence of slopes, wicker, wooden, brick or plastic fences are installed around the perimeter.
Important! The tubers are planted on the beds in two rows, maintaining a checkerboard pattern. A handful of compost and ash, a matchbox of complex fertilizers are placed in each hole. This technology provides a good harvest.
Watch the video! Planting potatoes according to the Meatlider method
Introducing the Gulikh method in your garden:
- It is necessary to plan the site into squares, the side length of which is 1 m.
- A hole 10 cm deep is dug in the center and a seed tuber is laid down to it sprouts down, sprinkling with soil.
- A roll of rotted manure with a diameter of 0.3 meters is laid around the hole.
- When seedlings appear above the surface, soil is added to the center of the bush, pressing the stems to the ground in the direction from the center to the edge of the square. Repeat this action several times.
- The result is the formation of a large number of tubers.
Planting under straw or a layer of mulch
It is possible to get a good harvest of clean and practically rotten-free potatoes if:
- From autumn, a thick layer of straw or dry grass without seeds is laid on the plantation.
- In the spring, tubers are placed in the compost that has begun to re-heat, maintaining a distance of 0.7 m between the rows, and 0.3 m between the plants.
- Another layer of straw is poured on top, adding it several more times as needed.
Watch the video! Comparison of planting potatoes under mulch straw and the traditional method in the same garden
- The beds prepared for planting are covered with black agrofibre, which is securely fixed at the edges.
- Cut openings taking into account the recommended distances, under which a shallow hole is carefully formed and the tubers are planted.
- You can use cardboard.
- With this planting, weeding and frequent watering will not be required.
Important! You can grow potatoes using a variety of containers filled with soil - boxes, bags, barrels. This method allows you to harvest in areas with poor or excessively moist soil.
Unconventional ways of planting potatoes
There are many such methods, and every year restless gardeners try to come up with something else new. With these methods of planting potatoes, they try to minimize and care for them.
Planting potatoes under straw or in straw
The popularity of this method is growing every year, despite the fact that it has both active supporters and equally ardent opponents. The main advantage of the method is less effort expended on growing potatoes, plus an improvement in the structure of the land after such planting. Therefore, it is especially often used on heavy or virgin lands.
There are also disadvantages - many say that tubers are often damaged by mice, and not everyone has the required amount of straw for large potato plots.
Usually, the tubers are laid out directly on the ground, slightly pressing them, and covered with a 10-20 cm layer of straw. When shoots appear through the straw, it is reported, this is done several times during the summer. This method does not require additional watering, as well as feeding. Hilling is done with straw. Instead of straw, you can also use hay, grass cuttings and other plant waste.
An important modification of this technique is that it is combined with the trench method of growing potatoes. Today this method is considered the most versatile.
Watch the video below - material on planting potatoes under straw.
This technique resembles the traditional one, but it attempts to greatly facilitate labor and time in preparing the land and planting potatoes. Potatoes are placed directly on loose soil prepared in autumn, fertilized with ash and lightly watered. Then the earth is thrown on it from the adjacent aisles. As the shoots grow, hilling is carried out from the passages with their deepening. The harvest is quite comparable to the traditional one, but less effort is made. Watch a detailed video on how to do this.
Planting potatoes under a black film
You can also use a non-woven black material instead of a film. The material is simply spread on the selected area, fixed at the edges. Then cuts are made into which tubers are laid to the appropriate depth (9-12 cm) and sprinkled with soil. According to the technology, no hilling or weeding is needed. In reality, the bushes bulge out as they grow, and the potatoes turn green, so a little hilling is still necessary. But for early plantings, the method can be interesting. Below you can watch a video about this technique.
Growing potatoes in box beds
This method requires a very laborious initial preparation, but then the care is minimal. First, box beds are built from boards, slate, bricks and everything that is at hand. The principle of their construction is similar to the manufacture of warm beds. Then they are filled with a variety of organic materials mixed with humus. Finally, tubers are planted in them, usually in a checkerboard pattern in two rows. Hilling, weeding and feeding are not required, watering as needed, but usually minimal. It is argued that the yield of potatoes under such conditions is an order of magnitude higher than with the traditional method. The main disadvantage is that the method is only suitable for small landings.
Below you can watch a video on this topic.
Planting potatoes in barrels, buckets, bags and other containers
This method came from the so-called Chinese technology. It stated that only 3-4 tubers can be put on the bottom of the barrel and covered with fertile soil as the shoots grow. By the time the shoots grow to the edges of the barrel and fill it with earth, the entire barrel will be filled with ripe tubers. In fact, tubers grow only in the top layer of the earth, equal to 40-50 cm. And the yield, thus, is similar to the traditional one.
Nevertheless, growing potatoes in all kinds of containers can be successfully used with a shortage of land. Packages or sacks of potatoes can be placed on any inconvenience, and thus grow a few more additional buckets of potatoes without much effort. Since weeding, hilling and feeding with this growing method is also not required. Watch the video about this original way of growing potatoes.