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Hanging beds - effective plant elevations

Hanging beds - effective plant elevations


Creation of artificial elevations on their plots: pyramids, containers and "hanging beds" to increase the yield

Many summer residents and gardeners have plots with a very limited area. And for this reason, they are forced to put up with both a small number of plantings and modest yields of garden crops. At the same time, some land owners have already accumulated such a positive experience in using the land, which allows them to get significant yields from the same area due to the weakening of the cold coming from the soil.

They achieve such results by creating various kinds of artificial elevations on their plots: pyramids, containers and so-called "hanging beds".

In the first case, which is used more often than others, pyramid is made either round or rectangular in shape and includes from 3 to 5 tiers (see Fig. A). The vertical walls of each tier are made from various scraps of wood materials, container boards or pieces of slate, and the bottom of each tier is covered with fertile soil containing compost and mineral fertilizers in accordance with the requirements of the crop to be grown. In the center of the pyramid, so that the soil warms up not only from above by the sun, but also from below, various wastes (wood, garden, garden, cardboard, paper, etc.) are laid, mixed with barren soil and emitting heat during decomposition.

Diagrams of the device of pyramidal (A) and suspended (B) beds for plants:
1 - bulk pyramid; 2 - soil mixture; 3-4 - plank walls; 5 - plants; 6 - pipe; 7 - holes for water; 9 - supports; 10 - boxes; 11 - clamps.

I learned from the experience of small gardening site owners who use these pyramids. Most often, they grow strawberries and potatoes on such structures, and often also beans, peas and beans, which, climbing up cords fixed on a pole driven in the center, add beauty to the site. At the same time, all crops, heated from below and from above and blown by the winds, feel quite comfortable, do not get sick and give yields that are 2-3 times higher than usual. For example, gardeners N. Gromova and V. Saenko were able to bring the harvest of strawberries and potatoes up to 0.5 kg and up to 20 kg from 1 m² of land, respectively, and they do not consider this result to be the limit.

It should be noted that, although the soil of such pyramids freezes in winter, it thaws noticeably earlier in spring, and this makes it possible to plant plants and get harvests earlier than in ordinary beds.

Various capacities (see B) - wooden boxes, old barrels, as well as plastic bags, etc. In the first case, the boxes are fixed with clamps on a pipe driven into the ground and having holes for water, and in the second and third cases, a similar pipe is inserted into a barrel or bag installed vertically. All three types of containers are filled with fertile soil, in which plants are planted in the first case in the corners, in the second - in the side holes, and in the third - in the cruciform slots.

Judging by the experience of gardeners N. Vasin and P. Golovin, the best results are achieved when growing cucumbers, strawberries and potatoes in such containers in a soil mixture containing compost, garden soil and sand in a ratio of about 2: 1: 1.

I will especially note that all three crops, warming up well from the inside from the walls and soil, and also from above with the sun, not only give yields that are many times higher than usual, but also, protruding from the containers outward, give the site a very attractive look with their greenery and flowers.

The third way to more efficiently use the space of the suburban area is suspension of small containers (pots, pots, plastic containers, etc.) filled with nutrient soil on fences, walls of outbuildings or greenhouse rails using wire or twine. Most often, peppers, green crops and flowers are grown in such containers. Experience shows that to reduce the number of watering of these plants, it is very effective to lay sphagnum moss on the bottom of containers, which perfectly accumulates moisture and has bactericidal properties.

According to the gardener N. Vasin, the "hanging bed" made by him from long boxes suspended in a glass greenhouse occupied by tomatoes, provided an area saving of 6 m² and allowed to get pepper yields that were almost 1.5 times higher than usual.

I also used this method: I grew pumpkins in plastic containers suspended from a household block. At the same time, the lashes of pumpkins spread along the transverse slats, they are well heated and bear fruit without taking up the garden area. Good results are also obtained by wrapping pumpkins around any supports: poles, fences, trees, etc.

Anatoly Veselov, gardener


↑ What types of insects can appear on the site

The list of "garden ants" includes the following insects: black garden, yellow garden, red forest and house ants. Let's consider their main qualities:

↑ Red Forest

The ant is large, about 1 cm long. The family of these insects is built up huge anthills, in which several tiers go underground. Harm to humans and the garden: ants breed aphids, spread and protect them. Leaves and fruits of plants are eaten, especially from fruit bushes and trees.

↑ Black garden

Garden insects of this species, on the contrary, are very small. In length, the goosebumps reaches only 4-5 mm. The color of the shell is almost black. Despite their size, black garden ants breed aphids better than other species. Harm: in addition to eating fruits, berries and leaves, they can eat all the seeds sown in the soil in the spring.

↑ Earthen (yellow) garden

Earthen creeps are even smaller than black garden creeps, only up to 0.5 mm in length. Large workers, as they loosen the soil well, eat the larvae of small insect pests. But, they build huge anthills, which go deep into the ground for several tiers. Such construction damages the roots of shrubs and trees if the anthill is located nearby. Earth ants do not breed aphids. But to eat berries and fruits - they are great hunters for this.

↑ Brownie

This goose bump is also called the ship ant. Having settled on the site, he soon moves into a house, a greenhouse, a barn. Doesn't build an anthill. This small pest (only 2.5 mm in length) eats everything that it comes across on its way.


Features of growing strawberries

The methods of caring for strawberries on vertical and horizontal pipe ridges practically do not differ from the agricultural technology of traditional crop cultivation. They consist in watering, feeding and combating pests and diseases, and strawberries planted in this way practically do not need weeding.

Variety selection

When choosing strawberries for growing in pipes, you should focus on varieties with long fruiting periods. These can be remontant varieties:

  • Albion
  • Queen Elizabeth II
  • Moscow delicacy
  • Evie 2
  • Diamond
  • Temptation.

They are attractive for the following features:

  • early ripening of berries
  • disease and pest resistance
  • re-fruiting at the end of summer
  • harvest of annual plantings.

Ampel varieties of strawberries are perfect for growing in pipes. This is a kind of remontant garden strawberry, characterized by a long mustache. Young rosettes are capable of forming berries even without rooting. In addition to high yields, these varieties are distinguished by excellent decorative properties. Landings are a cascade of leaves and shoots, which are strewn with bright berries and delicate inflorescences.

Rosettes of ampelous strawberries can form berries even without rooting

Planting seedlings

Strawberry seedlings can be planted while filling the pipes with soil or at the end, when the structure is fully assembled, secured and watered. For planting, healthy strawberry seedlings are selected, the roots of which are recommended to be dipped in a mash made of equal parts of clay and manure. This treatment will help the plant retain moisture better. A vertical depression is made in the soil, where the roots are placed, making sure that they do not bend. The root collar of the seedling is placed at ground level.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in the planting holes so that the root collar is at ground level

Between strawberry seedlings (with vertical planting - at the bottom of the structure), it is recommended to plant marigolds that can scare off harmful insects.

Seedlings can not be transplanted into every planting hole. This arrangement will make it possible to root the young shoots that are formed, to renew and rejuvenate the planting of strawberries.

Watering

It is necessary to water the crop often, as the soil in the pipes dries out quickly. Determine the need for moistening according to the condition of the soil in the planting holes. Watering is carried out through a narrow pipe, which must first be filled with water to the top (when placed vertically), and then gradually give moisture to the plants.

Waterlogging should be avoided. It leads to the spread of fungal infections.

Top dressing

Fertilizing strawberries planted in pipes differs from fertilizing plants grown in the usual way:

  • The soil in the pipes is quickly depleted, so the plants need frequent and effective feeding. They must be carried out at least once a week.
  • On beds made of PVC pipes, liquid fertilizing is preferable, which must be combined with watering. The nutrient solution is poured into the irrigation pipe and through it gets to the plant roots. To prepare a liquid top dressing, you can use complex fertilizers or dilute organic matter with water (the recommended proportion is 1:10).

Pest and disease control

Strawberries planted in PVC pipes can be attacked by such pests:

  • Colorado beetle,
  • weevil,
  • whitefly,
  • strawberry mite,
  • slugs,
  • snails.

Sufficient light and moderate watering will prevent the spread of snails, slugs and millipedes. If the named pests have spread en masse, then the plantings must be treated with Metaldehyde (according to the instructions). A solution of Karbofos (50 g per bucket of water) will help to cope with strawberry mites, weevils and whiteflies. Treatment with these preparations is best done after harvest.

When attacking strawberries by the Colorado potato beetle and May beetle larvae, chemical preparations are not recommended, since they all have a long duration of action and are unacceptable for quickly ripening berries. These pests must be collected by hand.

Growing strawberries in PVC pipes is not only a simple and economical but quite practical way to get a good harvest. And the garden plot will amaze with its originality and uniqueness.


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