New

Pepper picking rules

 Pepper picking rules


Some of the nuances of pepper picking cause lively controversy among gardeners. Some bury the seedlings, others are categorically against it. There is an opinion that peppers cannot be transplanted at all, they must be sown immediately in separate pots. How, then, is it correct to dive peppers? Maybe it's easier to grow them without this procedure?

What is a dive and is it possible to dive peppers

The word "pick" has two meanings. The very first, which previously referred to tomatoes, is root pinching during transplantation. In this sense, pepper cannot be dived. It has a long taproot that is unlikely to recover from damage. Seedlings and grown pepper seedlings should be transplanted by transshipment together with a clod of earth, without disturbing the roots.

Video: what we lose by breaking off or pinching the root from seedlings

Gradually, the meaning of the word "pick" expanded. If earlier it was used, speaking only of tomatoes, now it has spread to all plants that we grow through seedlings. In the modern sense, "dive" means to plant seedlings from a common container in separate pots. If such a meaning is meant, then peppers can be dived.

When to dive peppers

Here the opinions of gardeners differ. Traditionally, seeds are sown in one common bowl, and seedlings are planted when 1-2 true leaves appear on them. But there are extremes that require or allow this rule to be violated:

  • you need to dive in the cotyledon stage, when the first real leaf just appeared, if:
    • the seeds are sown too densely, the seedlings have covered the ground like moss, do not allow each other to grow, they are cramped;
    • for sowing, containers are used with a depth of less than 5 cm, and the roots have nowhere to grow;
  • you can postpone the pick until 3-4 true leaves appear in the case when the peppers are sown in a deep bowl (soil layer - 7-10 cm), they rarely ascend, everyone has enough space and soil.

Favorable days for picking according to the lunar calendar

Not all vegetable growers are guided by the lunar calendar when growing seedlings. Meanwhile, it has long been proven that the night star strongly affects the movement of fluids on Earth - for example, it causes ebb and flow. On a waxing moon, the water rises, peaks at the full moon, then declines, descends to its lowest level at the new moon. Plants also have a liquid - cell sap.

Knowing about such a cycle, we can conclude that it is necessary to dive peppers when the moon is growing, when all the juices tend to the leaves and stems - then it is not scary to touch the roots. Have time before the full moon, then the peppers will be in new pots at their peak and will quickly start growing.

If you transplant peppers on a growing moon, they will be in a more spacious container at the peak of their development and will quickly start to grow.

After a full moon with a waning moon, you can also transplant. However, the forces are already leaving the aerial part, the juices go to the roots, the transplanted plants can hurt and not grow for a long time. They will develop more slowly than those transplanted on the growing moon, and will yield to them in yield. On the new moon, picks are strictly prohibited. At this time, all vital forces are concentrated in the roots and the slightest damage can lead to the death of the seedling.

Usually peppers are sown in February, a pick is done at the end of February or March. For these periods, it is worth studying the calendar of lunar days for 2019:

  • the new moon falls on February 5 and March 6, that is, these days cannot be transplanted;
  • the moon grows on February 6-19 and March 7-21 - these are favorable days for transplantation;
  • the moon decreases from February 20 to March 5, as well as from March 22 to April 4 - you can transplant, but it is undesirable.

If you are late with sowing and picking, then under the ban on April 5 (new moon), and then again 2 weeks of favorable days of the growing moon follow.

I have never used the lunar calendar for gardeners. It turned out that it is not so easy to find reliable information about favorable days for a pick. Each site, each article has its own data. It also takes into account which signs of the zodiac the moon passes through. According to some, it is necessary to transplant under the signs of the earthly elements (Virgo, Taurus, Capricorn), others believe that Sagittarius patronizes the peppers, etc. I used a simple calendar of lunar days - it is the same for everyone. If I ever want to grow according to the lunar calendar, I'll just look at the sky in the evening. If the moon is in the form of the letter "C", then it is aging, that is, decreasing, and if it looks like "P" without a stick or "C" in the other direction, it is a growing moon.

The aging (waning) moon looks like the letter "C", the growing moon looks like "P", if you substitute a stick

How to dive peppers at home

Prepare the ground first. You can buy it in the store or compose it yourself:

  1. Mix 1 part turf or garden soil and 1 part compost (humus).
  2. For looseness, add sand, vermiculite, old sawdust. When wet, the prepared soil mixture should not stick together into a lump.

    In order for the seedlings of peppers to grow well, a soil is prepared from several components: garden soil, humus, sand

  3. To enrich it with phosphorus, potassium and trace elements, add and mix wood ash: 2 cups per 10 liters of soil.
  4. If you do not want to face diseases and pests already during the growth of seedlings, then warm the earth in the oven, microwave until steaming, or spill it with boiling water.

Video: how to ignite the earth in the microwave

A solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin-M, which is often watered on the soil during planting, will not destroy the eggs of whiteflies, aphids and ticks. These drugs are only suitable for the prevention of disease. But after warming up with Fitosporin-M, you need to water it in order to populate the sterile soil with beneficial bacteria.

Peppers do not like to be disturbed by their roots, and these plants cannot be transplanted 2-3 times, like tomatoes. Therefore, dive the seedlings immediately into a spacious container. Disposable 500 ml glasses or pots of similar capacity are welcome. Drainage holes are required.

Pepper picking takes place in several stages:

  1. Peppers are watered 2-3 hours before transplanting.
  2. The cups or pots are partially filled with soil mixture so that there is room for the root with a lump of earth.
  3. With a teaspoon, fork or other convenient tool, dig in a pepper seedling, sinking to the very bottom of the container and grabbing more soil.

    If the peppers were originally planted not in a common bowl, but in small cups, then transplanting them into a large container will be easier, since they are well removed from the glass along with an earthen lump

  4. Taking out the pepper from the common bowl along with the soil on the roots, without shaking it off, place it in a new container and sprinkle it with soil mixture.

    After transplanting the pepper into a new container, sprinkle it with earth and compact the soil around the stem

  5. Water the sprout.
  6. If the soil has subsided, add more soil.

Video: picking peppers

To deepen or not to deepen

Quite recently, there was one categorical answer to this question - peppers should not be buried! However, more and more videos appear on the Internet in which gardeners with many years of experience deepen the peppers and even sprinkle / sprinkle them with earth. At the same time, everything grows beautifully, blooms and bears fruit.

Some gardeners, when planting in the garden, deepen the peppers to the cotyledons

She herself was sure that the peppers should not be buried. They have a root collar, and if you cover it with earth, the peppers will not grow and bloom. For me, this was a fact, because once I transplanted indoor hot peppers to the garden bed, and for some reason it went deep into the depths: either the soil was not compacted badly, or the cats were buried by arranging a toilet. That bush sat all summer, as if knocked down, did not grow and did not die.

In addition, I knew that peppers do not form adventitious roots, like tomatoes, there is no sense in burying them. Indeed, I have never seen the adventitious roots of peppers. And I don't grow them every year. But this summer I have planted 5 varieties. They ascended, I swooped them down (did not deepen), dropped them off. The bushes bloomed well and set fruit. Once I went to harvest and on the peppers the Orange Beauty, already hung with large fruits, found aerial roots in the lower part of the stems! Perhaps this phenomenon occurs on modern varieties of peppers, and they need to be buried.

Video: potted pepper gave adventitious roots

There is one as yet indisputable argument against burying peppers. This culture is slow-witted, it grows very slowly (we sow peppers in the very first winter). If they are also deepened, then the harvest will have to wait much longer than indicated on the seed bag. The plant will redirect all juices to root formation, the aboveground part will freeze for 1-2 weeks, and will stop growing. This is not scary if the peppers are grown in the south, in a long and warm summer, or the seeds are sown in December-January and are still far from planting. But most of the Russian gardeners live in a harsh climate, they do the sowing on time, there is no time to wait for the pepper to grow extra roots, and there is no need for anything.

In the southern regions, where the summer is long, or with very early planting of seeds, peppers can be dived with deepening if adventitious roots appear on the stems

So, decide whether or not to deepen the peppers on an individual basis. If the sprouts are stretched out, then you have to do this, but it is better not to allow stretching. After all, everyone, even southerners, wants to harvest early.

How to feed peppers after picking

After transplanting peppers, our task is to help them grow quickly. Growth stimulants contribute to good adaptation in a new place, they are also called vitamins for plants:

  • biohumus under the Florizel brand for tomatoes and peppers - added to irrigation water, which is used for transplanting, spending 30 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water;
  • eco-gel - sprayed on the leaves immediately after planting, consumption - 25 ml per 2 liters of water;

    Eco-gel is an agro-ecological activator of root formation

  • Epin-Extra helps any culture to cope with a stressful situation, in our case, with a transplant. Dilute 1 ml in 5 l of water and spray over the leaves;
  • Energen Extra (powder in capsules) - the contents of one capsule are dissolved in 1 liter of water and the peppers are sprayed.

Use one of the drugs or buy any other stimulant in the store - there are a lot of them on sale today. Transplanted peppers will only need full nutritional supplements after 2 weeks. For such a period and even longer, they will have enough food available in the soil.

Fertilizers before budding should contain more nitrogen, less phosphorus and potassium. It is convenient to use universal ready-made seedling formulations (for example, Fertika). Prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. tablespoons of fertilizer and 10 liters of water and water the seedlings. If you keep seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse, then you can use natural infusions of mullein (1:10), bird droppings (1:20), nettle (1: 5).

How to grow peppers without picking

In order not to transplant peppers during the seedling period, you can sow them immediately in half-liter glasses or pots. The procedure is as follows:

  1. The earth is prepared as described above. The seeding depth is about 1 cm.
  2. Two seeds are placed in one container (in case one does not rise).
  3. The cups with crops are covered with foil or glass and placed in a warm place (+ 25–28 ° C). Seedlings usually appear in 5-7 days, some varieties can make you wait up to 2 weeks.

    To make the sown pepper seeds rise faster, they are covered with plastic wrap.

By the way, earlier it was strongly recommended: if both seeds sprout, remove one sprout. Now many gardeners grow two seedlings in a pot and plant them together - two per hole. When sowing two seeds in a pot, they should be placed not side by side, but at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other, and the planting density on the garden bed should be no less than indicated on the package.

If you plant the peppers two at a time in a pot too close together, one sprout will have to be removed.

Further cultivation without picking implies the usual care of the seedlings:

  • positioned on a south-facing window. The duration of daylight hours is 10-12 hours (it is observed in most regions no earlier than February 20, therefore, if the peppers are sown earlier, additional lighting is necessary, otherwise the plants will stretch out);
  • water as the soil surface dries up;
  • feed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers once every two weeks from the moment the first pair of true leaves appear.

Video: an alternative way of growing peppers without a pick - in a snail

Pepper seedlings can be grown both with a pick (transplant) and without it. During a dive, the root should not be pinched. The transfer of the seedling itself into a larger container must be carried out very carefully so as not to injure the roots and stem. It is undesirable to deepen the plants. Correctly carried out picking will provide an incentive for the further successful growth of seedlings.

[Votes: 7 Average: 4]


Picking is a procedure that gardeners use to stimulate the growth of healthy, strong seedlings.... It is the transplanting of grown seedlings from a large total capacity into individual pots with a complete replacement of the substrate.

Picking is also necessary in cases where the seeds are sown immediately in separate containers. - special cassettes with cells. They are small in size and contain little land, so as they grow, the plants are transplanted into larger containers. This facilitates the subsequent planting of seedlings in open ground.

Some gardeners believe that picking only harms the seedlings, injuring their root system.... Others talk about the need for the procedure, as it increases the space for root development and improves the absorption of moisture and nutrients by the plants.

In the absence of a pick, the grown seedlings suffer from a lack of oxygen, their roots are intertwined, and the accumulation of excess moisture in the container provokes rotting of the root system.

Pros and cons of the procedure

The advantages of picking:

  • providing free space for the development of the root system
  • the ability to immediately select strong and healthy seedlings and get rid of the weak and sick
  • stimulates the growth of a strong stem to ensure better plant survival in the beds
  • increased yields, as strong and healthy seedlings are the key to a good harvest in the future.

Disadvantages of the procedure:

  • plants are stressed, weak specimens die
  • the likelihood of transmission of diseases from affected seedlings to healthy ones
  • labor intensity.

In case of violation of the timing of the pick plant development may slow down.


When to pick pepper seedlings

The diving process is quite laborious and requires a special approach. An important point is the knowledge of exactly when it is best to dive. The earlier the picking is carried out, the faster and easier the seedlings of peppers will take root in the new place.

This procedure is best carried out at the moment when the seedlings have two or three true leaves.

The activity of the sun's rays increases, the seedlings quickly reach for them. There is no need to miss the moment, waiting for it to stretch too far, or more than 4 leaves will appear. By this point, the plant has already formed a root, and picking at this moment will cause him severe stress.

But rushing is also extremely dangerous for peppers: before the appearance of real leaves, the sprouts have very weak roots. For this reason, many seedlings do not take root and dry out.

Important! The peppers do not dive when the cotyledon leaves appear, they wait for the real ones to grow.

Lunar calendar

Many gardeners are conducting a dive of seedlings, taking into account the favorable days according to the lunar calendar, and the effect of the lunar phases on the plant:

  • New moon.During this period, the accumulation of all life-giving force occurs in the roots. It is better to refrain from transplants.
  • Waxing Crescent . The root system redirects all the nectar up the stems. There is an active growth and prosperity of plants. It is at this moment that you need to engage in a dive of sweet pepper. Even if the root system is damaged during transplantation, the plant survives.
  • Full moon. All food is found in the upper portions of the crops. Gardeners prefer to pause all work with plants.
  • Waning moon. All juices from the tops begin their movement back to the roots. This period is considered neutral, the dive for bell peppers goes well.

In addition to the position of the moon, there are fertile signs, neutral and infertile. The period of stay of the Moon in Libra, Scorpio, Taurus is considered favorable for a dive. The days when the Moon is in Pisces, Aries, Virgo, Sagittarius, Gemini are considered an unfavorable period for picking pepper.


How to dive correctly

Gardeners recommend using the lunar calendar to determine the best time to dive for tomato bushes. Now we will directly consider the basic process of how to dive tomatoes correctly. Watering tomato seedlings before diving.

The well-known vegetable grower Alexander Ganichkin recommends watering the seedlings abundantly a few hours before the start of the process in order to facilitate your work and increase the elasticity of the plants. Watering earlier, as well as immediately before replanting, will not be correct. In the first case, the soil will be dry, and so it is possible to damage the root during extraction, and in the second case, the adhesion of earthy clods will occur, and there will be a high probability that the stem will break. Such options do not suit us, so we water, wait 2-3 hours and proceed.

We fill the prepared container for transplantation with soil. Ganichkin recommends not to immediately use a large container for small plants, it is better to take small cups of 100-150 ml. Here, plants can develop without harm for another 2-2.5 weeks, then they will definitely need to be dived into a container of a larger volume again. Picking immediately into a large container is not recommended for reasons of the fact that a small root system cannot cover the entire volume provided at once, therefore, various kinds of fungi can begin to successfully develop in the ground. The process of transplanting into large volumes is no different, therefore, having mastered the pick once, you can repeat it without any problems.

First, we dig out the plants from the box with a clod of earth. Remember that this must be done carefully. You can use any handy object: someone does the digging with a pencil or sushi stick, someone is helped by a teaspoon - choose what is convenient for you.

The second step is to separate the plants. It is safe to use a toothpick. Try to touch the seedlings with your hands as little as possible, especially the leaves. It is not necessary to completely clear the ground of roots - this way the plant will better tolerate a transplant.

A picking can be accompanied by pinching off a part of the central root, but at an early stage this root is so small and thin that in 90% of cases it will be damaged during the transplantation process, therefore, at this stage, shortening of the root can be neglected. If you pinch off too much, then the tomato will subsequently slow down its growth and will use all its strength to restore the root system. This works beneficially when you have overgrown seedlings, and for "babies" it becomes an unnecessary brake on their development.

Then we place each plant in a well in a prepared container. It should be planted with a deepening to the cotyledon leaves themselves - this way you will stimulate the formation of a branched root system. We crush the soil around the plant a little.

Immediately after picking, tomato bushes need to be watered. The repeated diving of tomato bushes is carried out in the presence of 2 true leaves in a large container or, if there is a lack of space, in the same boxes, only with the replacement of soil and a row spacing of at least 15 cm. The process is similar to that described above. The grown tomatoes also go deep into the ground up to the initial leaves. The tool for the formation of holes for tomato seedlings.

Although picking is not the most time-consuming process, some gardeners do without it completely. Growing tomatoes at home without picking is quite possible, and the seedlings are not at all worse than picking.

Everyone who grows tomatoes using this method claims that the process of adaptation of plants when planted in the ground is faster and more painless. In this method, in comparison with the classical method of growing home seedlings, differences arise already at the first stage of sowing seeds.
In this case, tomatoes are sown immediately in separate containers, so you need a sufficient number of them, you also need a relatively large space to accommodate all the seed. If you have a heated greenhouse, then this method is perfect. The choice of the required container is not limited, the main thing is that there are drainage holes in it. Therefore, it is also worth taking care of the availability of a pallet.

The soil for tomatoes should be loose and fertile. Because you will use the soil throughout the entire cultivation of seedlings, then before packaging it in a container, you need to carry out a disinfection process (you can simply ignite it in the oven).

In each container with moistened soil, 3-5 germinated seeds are placed to a depth of not more than 1 cm, then watered from a spray bottle. Seedling care is standard.

When the plants sprout and grow a little, they need to be thinned out, leaving 2 of the most viable in each glass. At the same time, it is recommended not to tear out unsuccessful seedlings, but carefully cut them off.

As the tomato seedlings grow without picking, so that the root system is formed well, you need to gradually pour the earth into the container. When picking, we deepened the plant when transplanting, and here we use the addition of soil to the level of the leaves.

In the future, you will need to leave only one plant in each pot. If the seedlings turned out to be strong, it is not necessary to throw away the extra bush - transplant it into a separate container, let it develop further.


Favorable days for picking pepper seedlings in March 2021

You should not start picking pepper seedlings if the plants have only cotyledonous leaves. In such seedlings, the roots are still poorly developed, there is only a main root that is not able to take root after transplantation.

What is pepper picking and is it obligatory to do it?

The need to pick a pepper creates problems for beginners. If the seeds were sown immediately in separate pots, then this operation is not necessary. Such seedlings will develop without problems until the time comes for disembarking to a permanent place.

When and how to dive pepper seedlings in 2021

When 2-4 true leaves appear, the peppers can dive... This will happen no earlier than after 2 weeks after sprouting, so plan to dive pepper seedlings according to the lunar sowing calendar 2021..

Best days to dive peppers in 2021

In March 2021 the number of works associated with the garden is increasing, you need to pay attention to the seedlings that were sown in February. The seedlings have grown, and it is required pick.

The best days in March 2021 to dive peppers are:

  • 1, 2, 7, 8, 22, 23, 26, 27, 29 numbers.

In April 2021 the seedlings of peppers should already be developing in their individual pots, but we will cite the most favorable April days for pepper picks:

  • April 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 18, 19, 23, 24, 25, 26.

Important! On April 27, the Earth's satellite will be in the Full Moon phase. On this day, you can not do any work related to seedlings.

In May 2021, according to the lunar calendar, favorable days for picking pepper seedlings are:

  • 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 20, 21, 22, 23 numbers.

How to dive peppers - step by step instructions

When deciding how to dive peppers and when, novice gardeners often overlook the need for careful preparation for this procedure. Before you start diving, you need to prepare a stock of soil, containers, study the technology of how to dive pepper seedlings.

Before diving the peppers into cups, it is important to prepare a nutritious loose mixture, one third consisting of organic matter - humus, compost, peat. Garden soil (two-thirds of the total volume) and sand (a liter jar per bucket of mixture) are added to the base. Add 1.5 tablespoons of superphosphate to a bucket of prepared soil, a tablespoon of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate each. Prepared in advance and equipped with drainage pots with a capacity of 200 ml are filled with soil.

Pepper picking is carried out using the following technology:

  1. The seedling is carefully removed from the seedling container with a clod of earth, it is recommended to use a spoon or stick
  2. In the pot where the sprout will be transplanted, a deepening is made, its walls are compacted with a finger or a stick
  3. Water is poured into the recess
  4. The seedling is placed in a hole and gently squeezed the soil at the base of the stem, the roots should not bend up! It is not worth deepening the plant. Peppers do not form adventitious roots; when deepened, the stem rots
  5. At the end, the seedlings are watered at the root, if necessary, soil is poured into the cups to eliminate the formed pits

If the basic rules on how to dive peppers and when it is better to do it have been followed, the seedlings will recover in a week and fresh green leaves will indicate that the roots have begun to grow.

How to care for pepper seedlings after a pick?

After the peppers have been dived into separate containers, the seedlings are placed in a warm, slightly shaded place for several days. Bright light can lead to wilting of the ground part of the seedlings, which will delay their growth. However, it is still better to put the pots in the place where the seedlings grew before transplanting - this way it will be easier for them to adapt. In this case, the role of the shade can be played by sheets of paper installed between the source of natural light and the pots.

Water the peppers after the top layer of the soil has dried 2-3 times a week, in the first days after transplantation, their number can be increased. 2 weeks after the pick, when the roots are restored, fertilization begins with an interval of 7-10 days and the nutrient solution is prepared from the following components (for 5 liters of water):

  • 10 g of potash fertilizers
  • 15 g phosphoric
  • 5 g nitrogen

With the onset of heat, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers alternates with the introduction of organic matter.

  • Better to use a green infusion of nettle sprouts.
  • The bucket is half filled with weed, a liter of mullein is poured into it and a glass of ash is poured in.
  • Fill the bucket with warm water, close the lid tightly and leave to ferment for 5-7 days.
  • The resulting green tea is diluted with water 1 to 10, 100 ml of the working solution is poured under one plant.

Fertilizing with microelements, which are applied twice a month, will also be useful for peppers after diving,

  • for this, in a bucket of water, dissolve 2 g boric acid, copper sulfate and potassium permanganate and 1 g zinc sulfate,
  • Stir well and add 50 ml of solution under one plant.

If the cultivation of pepper takes into account the requirements of the plant, then an excellent harvest will be guaranteed, in addition, you can increase the yield if you know how to form the pepper correctly. When deciding how to dive peppers and when, it is important for novice gardeners to carefully study all aspects of this procedure. Pepper is a capricious culture that does not tolerate careless handling, only with delicate and competent care after transplanting can you get viable seedlings that will give a rich harvest.

Conclusion

It is not difficult to cut the peppers, you just need to choose the suitable days and age of the seedlings, and also act very carefully. With good care, the seedlings will quickly begin to grow after the end of the pick, and you will get strong seedlings that can give a decent harvest.


The most optimal days for picking seedlings in May 2020

In almost every household, you can find peppers, tomatoes and eggplants in the garden. These cultures are very popular, because they contain many useful substances, they have a wonderful taste and you can cook the most delicious dishes and preservation with them.

When to dive tomato seedlings in May 2020?

The problem of how to dive tomatoes appears after sowing crop seeds for seedlings. The culture is one of the fast-growing ones, and it is worth preparing for intermediate transplants long before the first tomato seedlings appear. Summer residents need to stock up on separate containers, soil and patience.

Approximate timing of when to dive tomato seedlings, come in 2-3 weeks after sowing the seeds. At this time, the first true leaves appear in plants. If the plants are weak, the timing is shifted by a week or two, so as not to injure the already fragile root system.

Second pick recommended for tall and medium-sized varieties of tomatoes. It is carried out 3-4 weeks after the first. Tomatoes do not need a third pick. The exception is when the seedlings are stretched.

Auspicious days of picking tomato seedlings in May 2020

The timing of when to dive tomatoes, the lunar calendar for summer residents for 2020 provides for almost every month.

The most favorable days for picking tomato seedlings:
Unfavorable days of picking tomato seedlings:

If it was not possible to transplant tomatoes during the indicated periods, you can do a dive on any other day, except for new and full moons. It is believed that, being in these cycles, the moon negatively affects the growth of vegetable crops. You can get more detailed information in expanded form if you read how to choose alternative days if, for one reason or another, an event on a favorable day does not work out (at the end of this article).

Another advice from experienced gardeners sounds like this - you should not massively transplant seedlings, since it is necessary to dive the tomatoes at the moment the seedlings are fully prepared for the procedure. At the first transplant, it is necessary to choose the strongest plants, and leave the weak ones for growing in an old container.

The next pick of tomatoes should begin at the moment of inhibition of plant growth. If no new leaves appear on the plants within a week, it needs more space and nutrients.

How to dive tomatoes - algorithm of actions and rules

Sooner or later, every summer resident who grows vegetables, the question arises - how to dive tomatoes? It is known that without this operation it is practically impossible to get strong and healthy seedlings. Transplanting into a more spacious container allows you to increase the root mass of plants, increase their adaptive capacity.

Rules for picking tomato seedlings

There are not so many ways to dive tomatoes at home and, regardless of the method of planting and growing, sowing time and other factors, the procedure must obey the rules:

  1. Before diving, it is necessary to water so that the soil in the container with seedlings is moistened, so it will be easier to remove the root system of a young tomato without damaging it
  2. It is impossible to roughly pull the plant out of the soil. There is an opinion that cutting off some of the roots stimulates the growth of new ones, but this is not entirely true. Only the central root can be shortened - if the lateral processes of the root system are damaged, after transplanting the tomatoes will first direct their forces to the formation of a new suction system, and only then will they start growing
  3. Each subsequent container for seedlings should be 3-5 cm wider and twice as deep as the previous one. It is filled with soil similar in composition to that in which the seedlings grew. So it adapts faster, the roots will begin to grow faster.
  4. The basic rule of how to dive tomatoes into cups or pots is to deepen them by a third of the stem height. This will prevent over-stretching of the seedlings. In addition, a recessed planting stimulates the formation of additional roots.

When a tomato is picked, the standard technology is used - the plant is removed from the soil and placed in a deep hole. Before filling the root system with soil, a little water is poured into the hole. Such a procedure will help the roots to straighten and take an adequate position. Then the soil is squeezed around the plant with your fingers.

The sequence looks somewhat different, like diving tomatoes if they are stretched out. It is unlikely that it will be possible to deepen them to the desired height without bending the stem, so the stem is laid in a spiral, gradually filling it with soil. The top of the seedling with two or three pairs of leaves can be left on the surface.

  • Our site has a very interesting and detailed article, how to dive tomato seedlings correctly: detailed instructions for different ways.
  • But some vegetable growers are wary of the picking process, prepared for them article, how to grow tomato seedlings without picking at home.

When to dive pepper seedlings in May 2020?

You should not start picking pepper seedlings if the plants have only cotyledonous leaves. In such seedlings, the roots are still poorly developed, there is only a main root that is not able to take root after transplantation.

What is pepper picking and is it obligatory to do it?

The need to pick a pepper creates problems for beginners. If the seeds were sown immediately in separate pots, then this operation is not necessary. Such seedlings will develop without problems until the time comes for disembarking to a permanent place.

When and how to dive pepper seedlings in 2020

When 2-4 true leaves appear, the peppers can dive... This will happen no earlier than after 2 weeks after emergence.

Best days to dive peppers in May 2020:

If it was not possible to transplant the peppers during the indicated periods, you can dive on any other day, except for new and full moons. It is believed that, being in these cycles, the moon negatively affects the growth of vegetable crops. You can get more detailed information in expanded form if you read how to choose alternative days if, for one reason or another, an event on a favorable day does not work out (at the end of this article).

How to dive peppers - step by step instructions

When deciding how to dive peppers and when, novice gardeners often overlook the need for careful preparation for this procedure. Before you start diving, you need to prepare a stock of soil, containers, study the technology of how to dive pepper seedlings.

Before diving the peppers into cups, it is important to prepare a nutritious loose mixture, one third consisting of organic matter - humus, compost, peat. Garden soil (two-thirds of the total volume) and sand (a liter jar per bucket of mixture) are added to the base. Add 1.5 tablespoons of superphosphate to a bucket of prepared soil, a tablespoon of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate each. Prepared in advance and equipped with drainage pots with a capacity of 200 ml are filled with soil.

Pepper picking is carried out using the following technology:

  1. The seedling is carefully removed from the seedling container with a clod of earth, it is recommended to use a spoon or stick
  2. In the pot where the sprout will be transplanted, a deepening is made, its walls are compacted with a finger or a stick
  3. Water is poured into the recess
  4. The seedling is placed in a hole and gently squeezed the soil at the base of the stem, the roots should not bend up! It is not worth deepening the plant. Peppers do not form adventitious roots; when deepened, the stem rots
  5. At the end, the seedlings are watered at the root, if necessary, soil is poured into the cups to eliminate the formed pits

If the basic rules, how to dive peppers and when it is better to do this, have been observed, the seedlings will recover in a week and that the roots have begun to grow will be evidenced by fresh green leaves.

How to care for pepper seedlings after a pick?

After the peppers have been dived into separate containers, the seedlings are placed in a warm, slightly shaded place for several days. Bright light can lead to wilting of the ground part of the seedlings, which will delay their growth. However, it is still better to put the pots in the place where the seedlings grew before transplanting - this way it will be easier for them to adapt. In this case, the role of the shade can be played by sheets of paper installed between the source of natural light and the pots.

Water the peppers after the top layer of the soil has dried 2-3 times a week, in the first days after transplantation, their number can be increased. 2 weeks after the pick, when the roots are restored, fertilization begins with an interval of 7-10 days and the nutrient solution is prepared from the following components (for 5 liters of water):

  • 10 g of potash fertilizers
  • 15 g phosphoric
  • 5 g nitrogen

With the onset of heat, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers alternates with the introduction of organic matter.

  • Better to use a green infusion of nettle sprouts.
  • The bucket is half filled with weed, a liter of mullein is poured into it and a glass of ash is poured in.
  • Fill the bucket with warm water, close the lid tightly and leave to ferment for 5-7 days.
  • The resulting green tea is diluted with water 1 to 10, 100 ml of the working solution is poured under one plant.

Fertilizing with microelements, which are applied twice a month, will also be useful for peppers after diving,

  • for this, in a bucket of water, dissolve 2 g boric acid, copper sulfate and potassium permanganate and 1 g zinc sulfate,
  • Stir well and add 50 ml of solution under one plant.

If the cultivation of pepper takes into account the requirements of the plant, then an excellent harvest will be guaranteed, in addition, you can increase the yield if you know how to form the pepper correctly. When deciding how to dive peppers and when, it is important for novice gardeners to carefully study all aspects of this procedure. Pepper is a capricious culture that does not tolerate careless handling, only with delicate and competent care after transplanting can you get viable seedlings that will give a rich harvest.

When to dive eggplants in May 2020?

Auspicious days for diving eggplants in May 2020

The best days in May 2020 to dive eggplants are:

Picking seedlings into pots

  • Eggplant boxes are placed in a warm place at a temperature of 24 - 26 ° C.
  • After 2 days, the soil is sprayed on top with water at the rate of 3 tablespoons of water per box, so that a crust does not form and the seedlings rise easily and amicably.
  • On the 5-6th day, they closely monitor the appearance of seedlings and, as soon as the seedlings rise, the box is placed on the sunniest and lightest window sill with a temperature of 14-16 ° C.
  • Such a regime is needed for a short time (6 - 7 days), so that the seedlings do not stretch too much and give strong roots.
  • Then the temperature is gradually increased during the day in sunny weather up to 23 - 25 ° С, in cloudy weather up to 18 - 22 ° С, at night 16 - 17 ° С.
Leaving before the appearance of two real leaves

Seedlings in the box grow until two true leaves appear - about 30 - 35 days after germination.

  • During this period, the seedlings are watered once a week.
  • Try not to overflow, otherwise the plants will be affected by the black leg.
  • The temperature of the irrigation water should be 25 - 28 ° C, it is advisable to use settled water.
  • Top dressing of seedlings before picking is done once a week with a solution of calcium nitrate (for 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons).
  • After 2 - 3 days, the boxes are turned to the window frame (to the glass) so that the illumination of the seedlings is uniform.

Seedlings readiness for picking

Seedlings in the phase of two true leaves are ready for transplanting (picking).

  • Such large seedlings are easier to replant and take root better than seedlings transplanted in the cotyledonous leaf phase.
  • 2 - 3 hours before the pick, the seedlings are watered. Seedlings cannot be selected from dry soil, since the soil will crumble from the roots, and after watering it remains.

Choosing pots for picking

The best sizes of cups or pots for seedlings are 8 × 8 or 10 × 10 cm.

  • They are filled with the same soil mixture as for sowing seeds.
  • Then it is poured with a warm nutrient solution (in 10 liters of water we dilute 1 glass of liquid mushy mullein or 1 tablespoon of urea and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride).

The picking process itself and further care

When you make sure that the pots are completely tamped down with a damp potting mix, then make a depression in the middle and plant the plant in the soil up to the cotyledonous leaves.

  • The unpicked eggplant seedlings in pots are placed on the windowsill, while cover the window glass for 1 - 2 days with a newspaper to create moderate lighting.
  • The main care of seedlings is watering, feeding, hardening and temperature conditions.

Far from all summer residents, eggplant seedlings are exemplary. What are our main mistakes when growing eggplant seedlings? What could be wrong? Read about all possible mistakes to avoid them in your practice HERE.

What to do if you cannot plant seedlings on an auspicious day?

Auspicious and alternative days

For many gardeners and truck farmers, it is important not only to plant at the correct seasonal time, but also to choose an auspicious day according to the lunar calendar for this. But what if, for one reason or another, the event does not work out on an auspicious day?

- It is best to choose alternative days.

To do this, you need to know the principles by which the lunar calendar is compiled.
In the modern classification of lunar calendars, it is customary to distinguish three types of the lunar calendar:
  • the calendar, determining favorable days for working with plants by moon phases
  • the calendar, which determines favorable days according to the zodiac sign (The phases of the moon are taken into account, but its position in the signs of the zodiac is of decisive importance.

From the point of view of modern astrology, the phase state of the moon is just an aspect of the moon and the sun, while in all the ancient lunar and lunisolar calendars that served the first agricultural states, the countdown is based on the phases of the moon.)

  • and the so-called lunar-bio-zodiacal (signs of "leaves", "fruits", etc.) which, if you think about it, is actually a slightly veiled calendar of the lunar phases.

Auspicious day Is the day with the greatest sum of favorable factors for a given plant species.

Now back to the question we started with:

How do I find an alternative day?
To do this, it is enough to know two simple rules:

  • The growing moon, let's say, "patronizes" the growth of the aboveground parts of plants and fruits (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, strawberries, etc., trees and shrubs, so it is better to plant these plants when the moon is growing).
  • The waning moon "patronizes" the growth of the underground part of plants and fruits (root crops); therefore, root crops and petioles rooted in the current season are best planted with a waning moon.
  • On the days of the full moon and new moon, it is better not to plant anything, and it is advisable not to carry out any work with the plants at all.

  • The position of the Moon in the signs of the zodiac also affects the further "fate" of plants.
  • In this sense, signs are divided into fertile and infertile. Aquarius is generally considered a sterile sign for plants (when the Moon is in the sign of Aquarius, it is better not to plant fruiting plants).

Simplified, fertility depending on the position of the Moon in the signs of the zodiac can be arranged in descending order as follows:

  1. calf,
  2. Cancer,
  3. Libra,
  4. Scorpio,
  5. Fish,
  6. Capricorn

Important!

  • Only fertile signs are listed here.
  • Try to plant fruiting plants when the Moon is in these signs.

When to plant celery seedlings in 2021

To enjoy the harvest to the fullest, it is necessary to take care of the timely planting of the crop even in winter. The fact is that celery has a long growing season (in early varieties, about 120-150 days, mid-ripening and late-ripening - about 170-180 days). And if it is too late to sow the seeds at home, the seedlings will not have time to grow to the proper level by the time they are planted in open ground.

When to plant celery seedlings? Both the root and petiole varieties are sown, as a rule, already in February. However, it is important to remember that conditions in our country vary greatly, for example:

  • In the southern regions (Krasnodar Territory) - you can sow a crop even at the end of January, at the beginning of February.
  • In the middle lane (Moscow region) - sowing is done a little later, in the middle or end of February.
  • In Siberia, in the Urals, in the Leningrad region - it is better to take your time and sow celery in the first half of March.

Sowing dates for celery according to the lunar calendar

You can choose the sowing time not only according to the climatic features of the region, but also according to the cycles of the moon. So, according to the lunar calendar 2021, the following suitable and unsuitable dates can be distinguished:

  • Favorable days for sowing root celery:
    • in January: 1, 2, 3, 24, 29
    • in February: 2, 5, 7, 8, 9, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
    • in March: 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 15
    • in April: 1, 19, 22, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 30.
  • Favorable days for stalked celery:
    • in January: 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
    • in February: 1, 5, 6, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 28
    • in March: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 15, 20, 21
    • in April: 15, 17.
  • Unfavorable days:
    • in January: 12, 21, 22, 28
    • in February: 11, 27
    • in March: 12, 28
    • in April: 11, 26.


When to plant pepper seedlings in the ground

With the development of 7-8 leaves in the seedlings and the formation of large buds, if at this moment the seedlings reach a height of 20-25 cm, you can start hardening it. First, the seedlings are placed for 7-10 days at a temperature of 16-18 ºC, and then the temperature is lowered to 12-14 ºC. To do this, open the vents, windows in the room or take out the plants to the balcony, loggia or veranda, exposing them to direct sunlight. The duration of such sessions is increased every day, and two or three days before planting in open ground, the seedlings are left outdoors overnight, protected from too cold air. Hardening takes about two weeks.

At the time of planting seedlings in the ground, the seedlings should already have 8-9 leaves and several formed buds, and the average daily temperature in the garden should not fall below 15-17 ºC. The site before planting seedlings should be prepared: dig it up on a shovel bayonet and level it. Humus and peat are introduced into clay soil. The holes are placed at a distance of 50 cm from one another, keeping the row spacing of 60 cm. A tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is placed in each hole and mixed well with the soil. The depth of the hole should accommodate the roots of the seedling without bends, and the root collar, after embedding, should be flush with the surface of the site. The seedlings are transferred into the holes along with an earthen clod, the hole is filled in half so that the bulk of the roots is covered with earth, then about a third of a bucket of water is poured into the hole, and when it is absorbed, the hole is filled with soil to the top.

Unlike tomato seedlings, pepper roots, damaged during the pick, recover very slowly, and because of this, the seedlings are transplanted into open ground 2-3 weeks later. As a result, the whole point of growing seedlings is lost. In addition, many seedlings simply die after a dive. To avoid the picking procedure, it is advisable to sow the seeds of this culture in separate vessels - 2-3 seeds in each.

You can use plastic cups to sow peppers for seedlings, and when the seedlings become cramped in them, transplant them into a larger container along with an earthen clod using the transfer method.By avoiding injuries to the root system of seedlings when diving, you will not waste valuable time and protect the seedlings from stress.

It is undesirable to use the soil in which vegetables grew for growing seedlings for two reasons:

Seedlings require a looser and more permeable soil than adult plants

In the garden soil, larvae of pests and pathogens can persist.

But if you add a baking powder, for example, sand, to the garden soil, and then subject the resulting soil mixture to sterilization, then it is quite possible that pepper seedlings will develop well in it. Before sowing, the sterile soil mixture should stand in a warm and dark place under the film for at least two weeks so that beneficial microflora can develop in it. Indeed, during sterilization, not only harmful, but also beneficial microorganisms die. Do not forget to fertilize the soil before sowing.

The growth of pepper seedlings may be stalled due to a violation of the conditions of detention or errors in care. For example, if the indoor temperature drops below 15 ⁰C or if you keep the container of seedlings on a cold windowsill. Nighttime temperatures should be at least 20 ⁰C, and daytime temperatures may be higher. And so that the roots of the seedlings do not freeze, put a sheet of foam plastic under the container with the seedlings.

You can stimulate the development of the root system by weekly feeding the seedlings with humate dissolved in warm (25-30 ⁰C) water: strong roots better absorb nutrients from the soil, and the seedlings begin to grow rapidly.

For the normal development of seedlings, good lighting is required, and if there is little natural light, place an artificial light source above the pepper container.

It does not matter at all what kind of fertilizers you feed the seedlings. The main thing is that these compositions contain the components necessary for the development of seedlings.

The first top dressing, which is applied before picking the seedlings, must necessarily contain nitrogen and phosphorus. Urea, Foskamide, ammonium nitrate or fermented mullein are used as nitrogen fertilizers, and superphosphate is usually used from phosphates.

When the time comes for the second feeding, the seedlings will need more phosphorus and potassium (potassium salt or potassium sulfate), and they will need less nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

For the third top dressing, you can use such ready-made fertilizers as Nitroammofoska, Agricola, Kemira, Gumi, Kristalon.

Of the early varieties of sweet peppers with yellow and orange fruits, the best are Lemon Miracle, White Gold, Barguzin, Bagration, Big Mama, Yellow Bell, Bugai, Golden Miracle, Golden Calf, Oriole, Blond, Golden Jubilee, Orange Bull, Sun and others. Of the hybrids, the following varieties are more popular: Orange Lion, Indalo, Brother Fox, Orange Fox, Orange Miracle, Gemini, Nemesis.

Of the red-fruited early varieties, Health, Mustang, Agapovsky, Nafanya, Smile, Zaznayka, Litsedei, Sorvanets, Akkord, Junga, Chardash, Funtik, Eroshka and others are widely in demand, and of the hybrid varieties with red fruits, the most fruitful are Buratino, Fidelio, Filippok Love, Samander, Husky.

There are many varieties of early peppers, but when choosing, you need to take into account that zoned varieties will develop faster, hurt less and give better yields than varieties that are not intended for cultivation in your region.

Take a 2 liter plastic bottle, lay it on its side and cut the top third horizontally - the seedling container is ready. You can make several small holes at the bottom to drain excess water and place the bottle on a plastic tray.

You can make a cylinder out of newspaper: roll it up in several layers, wrap it around a half-liter jar and secure the free edge with paper clips or staples so that the cylinder does not unfold. Place the cylinders on a pallet, put some sphagnum on the bottom of each container, fill the glasses with soil and sow pepper. When planting seedlings in the ground, you do not have to remove them from the newspaper cylinders: in wet soil, the newspaper will quickly get wet and spread, and since the cylinders have no bottom, they will not interfere with the rooting of seedlings.

Pepper seeds marked F1, which you purchase from the store, will give you a first generation hybrid with strong varietal characteristics. Hybrid plants are characterized by high yields, increased resistance to negative environmental influences, and they react little to inappropriate growing conditions. However, if you want to get seed from these hybrids, you should know that the second generation of the hybrid will be less productive, and varietal characteristics may be lost.

Varietal pepper may not have as high a yield as hybrid pepper, but its seeds retain varietal characteristics in the second, third and subsequent generations. In addition, varietal pepper seeds are cheaper and are available in a much wider assortment than hybrid seeds.

In addition to fungal diseases (fusarium, black leg, gray rot and late blight), pepper seedlings can also be affected by more dangerous viral diseases (stolbur and tobacco mosaic). The danger of a viral infection is that it cannot be defeated. However, the development of both fungal and viral pathologies can be prevented.

In order for the seedlings to grow healthy, you need to prepare the seeds for sowing and disinfect the soil, which may contain insect larvae and harmful microorganisms. The seeds are disinfected for 15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin-M, then washed with clean water and dried.

The soil mixture into which you will sow pepper can be frozen in a winter garden, calcined in an oven at a temperature not exceeding 90 ⁰C, steam under a lid in a water bath, or spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate. The soil is prepared a month before sowing, and after disinfection, it is stored in a cold, dark place under the film.

At home, seedlings can be affected by aphids, thrips, whiteflies and spider mites that migrate to seedlings from indoor plants. To ward off pests, keep pepper seedlings near aromatic plants such as marigolds, lavender, onions, garlic, or mint.

The presence of aphids is indicated by the curling leaves. Whiteflies - tiny white moths - most often attack seedlings in a greenhouse. Both aphids and whiteflies feed on plant sap and leave sticky marks on the leaves, which can later become covered with a black bloom of a sooty fungus.

Thrips are also dangerous sucking pests. In places of thrips bites, colorless or yellowish spots remain on the leaves, and colonies of larvae can be seen on the underside.

Spider mites appear on seedlings in conditions of low air humidity. Signs of the presence of mites are the thinnest cobwebs and tiny bites on the leaves.

It is advisable to plant pepper seedlings in open ground when return frosts have passed, and the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 15 ⁰C. If the seedlings are ready for transplanting, the soil has warmed up enough, but according to the forecast, night frosts are expected, spill the holes with hot water, plant the seedlings and cover the bed with lutrasil or a film stretched over a metal frame. Such a shelter will protect young plants from a sharp drop between day and night temperatures.

This should not be done either in a greenhouse or in a vegetable garden, because sweet and bitter peppers can become dusty. As a result, the bitter pepper will remain bitter, and the sweet pepper fruits will acquire a bitter taste. Sometimes the result of such cross-pollination affects only in the second generation, that is, in the fruits that have grown from the seeds of the over-pollinated plants.

If the weather is calm during flowering, cross-pollination may not occur, but nevertheless, in order to avoid spoiling the taste, planting sweet and bitter peppers should be placed as far apart as possible.

In hot pepper seedlings, the stems are thinner, and the leaves are darker and much narrower than in sweet seedlings. Sweet pepper seedlings look more powerful and squat, and garden bitter pepper seedlings are taller. But these are general differences. Sometimes the difference can be difficult to grasp, since there are many varieties of both one and another species, which can be quite different among themselves.


Watch the video: Pizza Challenge with Baby Aria!