Agastache seeds - How to proceed
Korean Agastache seeds, how to produce them?
• Korean Agastache seeds are harvested after the ears have bloomed.
• The ears on the stems must be browned.
• Pick them when they are really brown
• Leave them to dry, on a grid or on a curtain, in a dry, ventilated and shaded place.
• Generally 1 week of drying is sufficient
The gardener's advice:
The flowering of Korean Agastachios begins in July, the first spikes will begin to "naturalize" in the middle of summer, these are the ones that are best favored, before autumn, when the temperatures are still very mild.
How to store the harvested Agastache seeds?
• Dry them.
• Then keep them in a dry place and protected from light
What is the germination period?
• The answer is not precise this time, even indeterminate.
• Some testimonies confirm that the seeds remain germinating for a few years
• Other testimonies indicate the opposite.
How many seeds per gram?
• about 1000 seeds per gram
Emergence time after sowing Agastache seeds?
• Between 1 and 2 weeks
Korean Agastache in the kitchen?
• The leaves are perfect for flavoring salads, or other salad-based recipes.
• Korean agastache is also used as a tea. He is credited with soothing cough warts.
• In infusion, Korean agastache is also digestive. It is found in herbalism.
How to make sprouted seeds?
The use of sprouted seeds dates back to over 2000 BC The recipe for Essene bread made from seeds of sprouted wheat was bequeathed to us by a people living in Palestine at that time. There is also evidence that sprouted soybeans were used as early as the 2nd century in China. After being forgotten, the sprouted seeds return to our plates. What is germination used for? How to proceed ?
Sprouted seeds, what are they?
These are seeds of vegetables, legumes, cereals or oilseeds that have undergone germination, that is, the resumption of development of the embryo contained in this seed. Indeed, the seed is maintained in a state of latency by so-called “inhibitory” factors. These prevent the action of various enzymes contained in the seed whose role is to allow the growth and hatching of the germ. The objective of germination techniques is to remove these inhibiting factors and then to support the development of the seed.
The stages of germination
The first stage is called pre-germination or soaking: it involves allowing the seeds to soak in water overnight or even 24 hours. This step is fundamental in order to remove these famous “inhibiting factors”. They should then be rinsed thoroughly to get rid of them as they are harmful to digestion. They are part of the "anti-nutritional factors of the plant" like phytic acid, a compound which associates with minerals and therefore makes them hardly available to our body.
In general, even apart from the germination technique, it is advisable to soak legumes, and even oil seeds (almonds, walnuts, etc.) before consuming or preparing them because this improves their digestibility.
The second step so-called germination takes place following the seeds between the 2nd day and the 5th day. During this, the enzymes of the seed, finally freed of their inhibiting factors, will come into action and predigest the large molecules present in the seed. For example, some of the starch or gluten contained in the seed will be broken down into compounds that are much more easily digestible for the human body.
Different parameters such as temperature and ventilation are strategic for a successful technique. In general, ideal temperatures range from 19 ° to 22 ° C or even 24 ° C. Germination times range from 2 days to 6 days for legumes and grains and can be up to over a week for vegetables.
After germination, the seeds should be stored in the refrigerator and consumed promptly (within 5 days).
Update on the risks of contamination of commercial sprouts
In Europe, incidents in 2011 in Germany and France halted the development of the sprouted seeds market. Indeed, following the ingestion of seeds contaminated with a virulent strain of Escherichia coli, nearly 50 people died in Germany and many people were hospitalized in France and Germany. However, it should be noted that the seeds in question were intended for the garden center and had no authorization for food use!
Following these incidents in 2013, European regulations (1) were put in place to regulate the production of sprouted seeds and finally give the maximum guarantees to the consumer. Establishments can only produce sprouted seeds if they have obtained approval following a mandatory inspection (monitoring compliance with hygiene rules). New requirements have also been defined with regard to traceability, the importation of producers of sprouted seeds as well as for the microbiological controls to be carried out on the seeds.
Can we germinate all types of seeds?
It is best to use organic seeds that are free from pesticides.
One could consider using seeds reserved for food use, for example conventional lentil seeds, but the failure rate will be quite high. Indeed, they undergo cleaning by abrasion which interferes with their germination power.
Be careful, some vegetable seeds such as tomato or eggplant contain toxic products and should not be germinated.
It is strongly recommended not to use vegetable seeds because they are most of the time protected by a coating of chemical residues.
What are the most consumed sprouted seeds?
Alfalfa seeds (another name for alfalfa), and green soybeans (mung beans) commonly known as bean sprouts are particularly popular. The sprouted seeds of lentils, chickpeas, leeks, radishes are also widely consumed.
If you've never tried Moringa seeds, you are about to discover a food extremely rich in health benefits. The seeds indeed have many virtues, including:
- Prevention and fight against diabetes
- Blood pressure regulation
- Stabilization of cholesterol
- Helps in weight loss
- Reduction of fatigue
- Improved sleep
Choosing the right Moringa seeds
To benefit from all these benefits, it is important to choose your Moringa seeds well. At Moringadoo, we offer 100% natural seeds, which you can order directly online: you can choose to take 1 packet of seeds, or as a cure of 1 month, 3 months, and 6 months.
How to consume Moringa seeds?
Moringa produces pods on its branches: these contain the seeds.
To consume the seeds and improve your well-being, it's very simple:
- Take a seed in your hand
- Remove the brown shell.
- bite into and swallow the seed.
You only need to consume 1 to 2 seeds per day at the start. Then, you can increase up to ten seeds per day over time.
The seeds should not be consumed by pregnant women. In addition, it is advisable to eat them after a meal (breakfast, lunch, snack, or dinner).
Absorbent paper or coffee filter?
When the seeds have been washed well, they should be dried. Avoid paper towels, as the seeds stick to them and it's inconvenient.
The coffee filter is the best accessory for Bruno Fournier: "After washing, we collect the small mass in the colander and we pour it into a coffee filter, more solid and less sticky than the absorbent paper. Then, it is enough to close the filter with a small clothespin or a paperclip. , before hanging it in a shelter or on a washing line, if it is dry. In about 72 hours, the seeds are dry. "
Be sure to write down the name of the variety before hanging the coffee filter.
You can move on to germination. For this step, you just need a glass (or more), cotton pads and aluminum foil. There are also seedbeds, sold commercially.
- Place the seeds in the moistened cotton disc and open in the middle, then the latter in the bottom of the glass.
- Cover with pierced aluminum foil.
- Place everything in the dark and. Wait. The important thing is to maintain humidity on the cotton throughout the germination period; a sprayer can be useful.
- After a few days, the seeds will have germinated. Better yet, with sunflower it will only take a few hours.
The germination cup, phthalate-free, enamelled, allows you to germinate your seeds
Germline, specialist in natural products, has imagined a germination cup specially designed for seeds with mucilage. Its base is made of enamelled stoneware and the grid is in honeycomb plastic. Guaranteed without BPA and phthalates, it promotes completely neutral germination. This germination cup is therefore a guarantee of high quality for the seeds to be germinated and provides excellent results. There is no risk of rot since the seeds do not suffocate from humidity. In addition to being simple to use and easy to wash, this bowl is very aesthetic and can perfectly add a decorative touch to your home. There are all kinds of seeds to sprout. These are particularly tasty and give a special aroma to your dishes. Once you have tried, they will quickly be essential.
Kidney bean diseases and what to do?
The bean can be more or less susceptible to diseases and parasitic attacks. We must react quickly and monitor them constantly.
The diseases of the bush bean :
- Fat: the fat can be recognized by the oily and yellow spots that appear on the foliage. It usually appears after a wet period, then hot. Preventive treatment with Bordeaux mixture is very effective.
- Anthracnose : It is easily identified by the brown or black spots that form on the leaves. Persistent varieties are much less prone to this disease. If your plants are infected, spray them with Bordeaux mixture or horsetail before pods form.
- Rust : it manifests itself by the appearance of pustules on the inner side of the leaves. Brown spots can also form on the pods. To avoid rust, space the rows of beans for better aeration which limits the attack of fungi. Affected plants will be removed, but do not put them in the compost. A decoction of horsetail remains quite effective as a preventive treatment, especially at the end of the season, when the bean is more vulnerable. You can, in the event of a really serious attack, use a fungicide clearly marked: "use authorized in the garden".
Pests of bush beans :
- The seedling fly
- Tetranic: it is a mite
- Bean weevil: the larvae develop in the grains. As the cold is capable of killing them, the beans must be put in the freezer for 5 days after dehulling.
- Root aphid
- The slug and the snail
- The black bean aphid: in this case you will have to tear off the feet invaded by black aphids. To avoid them, plant nasturtiums next to them.
To avoid most of these pests and pests, you can plant basil nearby, which is a technique that works very well.
For the slugs and flies, put ferramol on the soil around the seedlings. Do not hesitate to add nettle manure to strengthen the young plants.
For acarians, the best is to bring in the culture aids, consumers of mites. It is also necessary to reduce watering a little and mulch and if the soil is really too dry, proceed by misting.
To move away aphids, install marigolds near the feet.
Even more plantations: