Correct planting and caring for zucchini in a greenhouse
Zucchini are early ripening vegetables of the pumpkin family. The culture is unpretentious, but, despite this, it loves an abundance of light and moisture. Despite the resistance to low temperatures, experienced gardeners recommend growing zucchini in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
Benefits of growing in a greenhouse
The advantages of this type of cultivation include the following:
- gentle taste qualities;
- reduction maturation time;
- the rise yield;
- opportunity growing early varieties on an industrial scale;
- high profitability;
- low probability damage by pests and diseases.
Zucchini varieties recommended for greenhouses
Bush hybrids are best suited for greenhouses. They are not only distinguished by increased productivity and excellent taste, but also take up quite a bit of space. The most common are:
High-yielding early maturing variety. Fruits are medium in size. The pulp is quite dense with a delicate taste. Suitable for both conservation and fresh use.
Refers to early maturing varieties. It has oblong white-green fruits. The pulp is dense, without a bitter taste. Used for making soup, stews, canning.
High-yielding, early ripening variety. Fruits are medium in size, smooth. The pulp is greenish-white, tender, dense, juicy.
Dates of planting seedlings in a greenhouse
Experienced gardeners have noticed that the timing of planting seedlings in greenhouses is different. They directly depend on the place of growth:
- for Moscow the optimal time for disembarkation is May 5-10;
- for Siberia - May 15-20;
- for the Krasnodar Territory - April 10-15.
Basic requirements for a greenhouse
Both polycarbonate greenhouses and conventional film greenhouses are suitable for growing zucchini. If it is supposed to be grown in winter, then in this case the greenhouse should be on a foundation and covered with glass. The optimal size is 45-50 sq. meters. The height doesn't really matter. For ventilation, the greenhouse is necessarily equipped with vents. In a glass-covered greenhouse, a wood-burning stove or electric boiler can be used for heating. A greenhouse covered with polycarbonate can be heated with heat heaters.
Biofuel is especially loved by zucchini. It warms the roots of plants well and acts as a top dressing that improves the growth of seedlings. To prepare it you will need:
- rotted mullein or pig manure;
Mix the mullein with straw in the same amount, stack it in a heap, poured abundantly with water and left alone under a film cover for 3-4 days... Then, in the greenhouse, the upper part of the soil is removed, biofuel is laid in a thin layer and a layer of soil is poured on top. The resulting cushion releases carbon dioxide, which warms the roots of the plants and promotes good growth and better palatability of the squash.
It is best to grow zucchini seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are planted in early March. Before sowing, the seeds must be prepared:
- Pour hot water over the seeds. The water temperature should be + 45-52 degrees. Withstand for 5-7 hours.
- Dip in ice water for 2 minutes. This procedure is performed in order to prevent fungal diseases.
- Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and leave for 48 hours in a room with a temperature of at least 23 degrees. It is necessary to keep the fabric moist all this time.
When the seeds have passed the preparation stage, we proceed to planting. For planting zucchini, you must prepare a special soil. For this we need:
- garden land - 7 parts;
- peat - 5 parts;
- mullein - 3 parts;
- ash - 150-200 grams;
- superphosphate - 30-40 grams;
- ammonium nitrate - 25-40 grams.
It is better to plant the seeds in peat pots, as the marrow seedlings do not tolerate transplanting well.
The diameter of the pot should be from 10 cm. The planting depth is no more than 3 cm. You can plant 2 seeds in the pot. After germination, leave one stronger sprout. When planting, it is recommended to fill the pot with soil only half. After planting, the seeds are lightly watered to ensure good contact with the soil. Before the first shoots appear, the room temperature should be + 26-28 degrees.
After the sprouts appear, the seedlings are transferred to a bright room with a temperature: in the daytime - + 17-18 degrees, and at night - + 12-14 degrees. This temperature regime is observed for 4 days to allow the seedlings to grow stronger. Then the temperature is maintained during the entire growing period, depending on the weather conditions:
- in cloudy weather - + 21-22 degrees;
- in sunny weather - + 26-28 degrees;
- at night - + 17-18 degrees.
10-12 days after planting, the earth should be poured into peat glasses. In this case, gently twist the stem like a corkscrew. So that only the lower leaves remain on the surface.
It is recommended to water the seedlings as the soil surface dries.
Care must be taken to ensure that the soil does not dry out and there is no over-watering. Improper watering can lead to stem and root rot.
If the seedlings are grown on a windowsill, it is important to consider the following lighting features:
- sill located on the south side, does not require additional lighting;
- west, east side - daylight hours at least 11 hours;
- north side - installation of additional lighting is required.
When 3-4 leaves grow on the seedlings (after 20-25 days), it is transplanted into greenhouses. It is recommended to warm up the greenhouse a little before planting seedlings. Disembarkation is performed using the square-nest method. Between the rows there should be 50-72 cm. The well is watered well with water, seedlings are planted and sprinkled with earth to the first leaves. After transplanting seedlings, the temperature in the greenhouse should be within 14-15 degrees. Ventilate with great care so as not to significantly drop the temperature.
For plants to grow strong and give a rich harvest, proper care is necessary, which in turn will prevent zucchini diseases. It is important to observe the following rules:
- Plants should be watered with water at room temperature. (+ 19-24 degrees) not often, but abundantly. In late April - early May, increase the amount of watering and the frequency of airing the greenhouse.
- Do not create high humidity in the greenhouse. Zucchini don't like that.
- Top dressing should be done every 10 days. For feeding, 1.5-2 liters of fresh cow dung are diluted in 10 liters of water.
- Bush should not pinch and shape.
- To reduce moisture evaporation, the soil surface sprinkle with sawdust or peat.
- Frames are removed from greenhouses as soon as the frost stops.
- If the bush is very dense, part of the leaves in the middle of the bush should be cut with a knife. This will provide additional air penetration and facilitate access to flowers for insects that pollinate the plant.
When harvesting, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:
- The crop should be harvested when the fruits reach a length of 20-25 cm and 8-10 cm in diameter (45-50 days after transplanting).
- Stop watering 7 days before harvest. This will prevent the zucchini from becoming too watery.
- In the midst of ripening zucchini is recommended collect every two days.
- Remove deformed fruitsto maintain the strength of the plant.
- Overripe zucchini are removed to enable the formation of new ovaries.
- When collecting fruits it is important not to damage them. If damaged, they lose their appearance and shelf life is reduced.
On various forums, gardeners leave their feedback and comments. Here is some of them:
Stanislav. I am very pleased with the greenhouse method. Zucchini are almost immune to disease. We harvest from the very beginning of spring and right up to late autumn.
Raisa. I see no reason to plant zucchini in a greenhouse in the form of seedlings. I plant the seeds and they quickly catch up with the seedlings. The rest of the greenhouse is happy.
Vitaly, Krasnodar. He built his business on growing marrow in greenhouses. It is not difficult to grow, there are not many costs. I recommend to everyone…
Observing these simple recommendations, it is quite easy to grow zucchini in a greenhouse. In addition this method does not require large investments, therefore it can be a good business for gardeners and bring significant profits.
How to plant, grow and care for tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse
The tomato is considered a common vegetable, which is cultivated by almost all gardeners. Most often it is planted in the open field, but sometimes you have to plant it in greenhouses. Before you start growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to understand the peculiarities of their planting.
- 1 Advantages and Disadvantages of Growing Tomatoes in a Greenhouse
- 2 The best varieties of tomatoes for greenhouse conditions
- 2.1 Eagle heart
- 2.2 Konigsberg
- 2.3 Abakan
- 2.4 Golden domes
- 2.5 De Barao
- 3 How to choose and prepare seeds for germination
- 3.1 Selection
- 3.2 Preparation
- 4 Optimal time for sowing and planting seedlings
- 4.1 To an unheated greenhouse
- 4.2 In a room with heating
- 5 Sowing and growing seedlings
- 6 Technology of planting tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse
- 6.1 Preparing the room
- 6.2 Preparing the soil for planting
- 6.3 We form beds for planting
- 6.4 Transferring shoots to the greenhouse
- 6.5 Preparing seedlings for planting
- 6.6 Picking seedlings
- 6.7 At what distance to plant seedlings
- 7 How to care for seedlings
- 7.1 Watering
- 7.2 Top dressing
- 7.3 Tying tomatoes
- 7.4 Formation
- 7.5 Passionate
- 7.6 Protection against diseases and pests
- 7.7 Do I need to huddle tomatoes
- 8 Secrets of growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse
- 9 Conclusion
History of growing zucchini Black handsome
Zucchini variety Black Handsome was obtained by domestic breeders S.V. Maximov and N.N. Klimenko. Since 2006, at the request of the originator - Agrofirm "POISK" Black handsome was included in the State Register and recommended for greenhouse cultivation in the North-West and Volga-Vyatka regions and cultivation in open ground in the Central and Central Black Earth regions.
On the territory of Russia, the Black Handsome has been grown for almost 15 years and has managed to gain popularity among gardeners.
Narrow-leaved lavender varieties
Today, many varieties of narrow-leaved lavender are known, which differ in height, bush shape, degree of aroma, flowering time, flower color. Most of them were bred in England, France, Spain. However, there are several excellent varieties, both of domestic origin and from neighboring countries, zoned in various regions of Russia.
Lavender narrow-leaved Munsted (Munsted, Munsted) was bred in 1916 by the famous English garden designer Gertrude Jekyll. This variety does not grow tall - only up to 30-40 cm. Very fragrant flowers are painted in a rich blue-violet tone and appear in July-August.
Munsted is an extremely beautiful low-rise variety
Hidkot (Hidcoat) - one of the most popular varieties of lavender in the world, narrow-leaved, was named in honor of the estate of its originator, Englishman Lawrence Johnston. Reaches 30-60 cm in height and about 1 m in diameter. Possesses a very persistent pleasant aroma. Its deep purple flowers look extremely decorative against the background of dense blue-green foliage. In climates with warm mild winters, this plant remains evergreen.
Hydcote is one of the most popular varieties in the world.
Folgate lavender bush with a dense spherical crown usually grows up to 30-70 cm.Its petals, painted in a violet-blue hue, shimmer in bright light, due to which these flowers look very beautiful when cut. This variety has a fragrant, sweet aroma. Flowering begins early, in late spring or early summer. Folgate narrow-leaved lavender is most often used in cooking. A significant drawback - in the open field, it does not tolerate the winters of the middle climatic zone.
Blue-violet folgate flowers shimmer in bright light
The flowers of the Buena Vista variety have an unusual color: dark purple calyxes and violet-blue corollas. This is a medium-sized lavender (50-60 cm). Due to its re-flowering, late spring and early autumn, as well as its high oil content, it is actively cultivated for industrial purposes.
In the color of the flowers of the Buena Vista variety, two tones are combined
Dwarf Blue (Dwarf Blue) is a compact (up to 40 cm), frost-resistant variety of narrow-leaved lavender. Delicate purple flowers look beautiful against a background of silvery green leaves. Resistant to air pollution and therefore suitable for decorative purposes in urban gardens. Can be planted in pots and containers. Blooms in June-July. It tolerates cutting well.
Delicate purple Dwarf Blue is resistant to air pollution and great for urban plantings
Elagans is a group of lavender varieties with a narrow-leaved height of 30-60 cm.Ellagance Pink has pale pink flowers, Ellagance Ice has dark blue or snow-white, Elagance Sky has purple-violet, at Ellagance Purple - rich lilac. They are grown mainly for decorative purposes.
Elagans Ice will surprise you with a snow-white color
A variety of domestic selection, bred in the Krasnodar Territory. It was entered in the State Register in 1962. This is a low-growing variety, the height of the bush does not exceed 30 cm. The dense twigs, forming an almost spherical crown, are covered with gray-green leaves. Numerous bright inflorescences of violet-lilac color adorn this lavender in June-July. Great for growing in all regions of Russia.
Voznesenskaya 34 is a popular industrial variety of domestic selection
The originator of the variety is the Crimean Research Institute of Agriculture. It was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation in 2014. Recommended for growing in the North Caucasus region. Plant height - up to 60 cm, crown shape - semi-spreading. The flowers of this variety of narrow-leaved lavender are painted in light lilac tones. It is characterized by mid-maturity and high content of essential oils. It is considered not too winter hardy.
The narrow-leaved lavender variety Stepnaya is famous not only for the beauty of the flowers, but also for the high content of essential oil.
Early ripe lavender, created by breeders of the Crimea on the basis of the Stepnaya variety. The date of inclusion in the State Register is 1980. The height of the bush is average (30-60 cm), the corolla of the flowers are light purple, the calyx is gray-green. Due to its high yield and good winter hardiness, the variety has established itself as an industrial variety. An additional positive feature is septoria resistance.
Early - winter-hardy and early flowering hybrid of the Stepnaya variety
A hybrid of narrow-leaved lavender, obtained by Crimean breeders as a result of crossing the varieties Druzhba, Stepnaya and Hemus. Included in the State Register of the Russian Federation in 2000, zoned for cultivation in the North Caucasus region. Grows to 69-70 cm in height. Late-ripening variety. The flowers are dark purple. Excellent for seed propagation. The results of variety trials showed that Isida's parameters for the collection of essential oil were even higher than that of Stepnaya.
Isida retains most of the traits when propagated by seed
How to grow cucumbers indoors ↑
For cultivation in greenhouse conditions, only the seedling method is used. It guarantees a harvest earlier than when planted with seeds.
For planting, 25-day seedlings are used.The timing of planting it varies depending on the type of greenhouse.
Strong seedlings - a guarantee of high yields
Seedlings are planted on the ridges with a two-line tape. The optimal distance between rows is 50-60 cm, between ribbons - 80 cm, and in a row between plants - at least 20 cm.
For planting seedlings, a cord and a scoop are used, with the help of which the planting holes are formed. Organo-mineral mixtures are added to each hole, after which they are poured with water. The pot of seedlings is immersed in the resulting mud and covered with soil. Planting cucumbers in the greenhouse is completed with mulching, which prevents evaporation of moisture from the soil and the formation of a soil crust.
Fresh cucumbers are a storehouse of nutrients
Cucumbers are often compacted with Peking cabbage, lettuce, and onions.
It should be noted that plant stems need additional support. For this purpose, wire or cord trellises are used, which are stretched at a height of 150-200 cm along the direction of each row. A week after planting, a string is attached to the trellis above each plant, which is tied to the plant with a free loop at a height of 10-15 cm above the soil level.
The technologies for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse and open field are somewhat different. Compliance with all the rules guarantees a decent harvest.
greenhouses early production is possible, not only greenhouse using frames. Cucumbers grown in film greenhouses will please with a good harvest. This method will require certain costs for the construction of a closed soil structure. Getting early production is worth it, however.
In film greenhouses, seeds of early maturing cucumbers of self-pollinated varieties and hybrids are used. The soil of autumn is being prepared. For the favorable development of cucumbers, it must be fertile and loose. For this, organic fertilizers are applied. In order to prevent diseases, measures are taken to disinfect the soil.
In the spring, the mineral Takoy is introduced in front of the high ridges. fertilization method of growing in a film will allow the greenhouse to improve the drainage properties of the soil. Plants will be strong and disease resistant.
To speed up early production in greenhouses, cucumbers are pre-planted with home-grown seedlings.
event This falls on the second decade of March beginning or April. In the phase of four true potted leaves, the seedlings are ready for planting. At the same time, the soil should warm up to fifteen degrees Three. Celsius is four plants per square meter - with a meter of density, double-row ribbons, planted in a greenhouse in cucumbers.
In this case, the landing pattern is interdule:
- the next distance is one hundred centimeters
- row spacing in fifty - centimeter strips
- between the holes in a row - fifty centimeters.
Cucumbers are grown in a vertical or trellis method.
There are several of them, and they are all used by gardeners:
Sowing is carried out in March on windowsills or heated greenhouses. Since the seeds are small, only lightly sprinkle them with soil on top. Spill containers with the addition of potassium permanganate and cover with foil.
Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. After that, the film is gradually removed. They dive in the phase of 4-5 true leaves in separate pots. They are planted in open ground when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.
Stratification within a month increases seed germination. Left in the garden after flowering, plants can produce abundant self-seeding. Such plants bloom for 3 years.
- Division of the bush.
Mature bushes over 5 years old are divided in spring and autumn. Spring division is preferable after the plants start growing. The rhizome is cut into pieces with a shovel or sharp knife. Each should have 3 buds. Plant immediately, watering abundantly.
Autumn division is somewhat difficult, because the birch rose blooms in August - September. Sufficient time is required for rooting so that the delenki have time to take root before the cold weather.
- Renal renewal.
Apply in spring, when the shoots reach 5 cm. The buds are cut out together with a piece of rhizome at the base of the bush. They are planted in boxes every 7 cm, the soil around is compacted. At first, they shade with shields. After rooting, they are planted in open ground.
- Green cuttings.
Carried out at the end of June, when the shoots have grown sufficiently. Cut the cuttings into 3 buds and root them in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Keeping the soil moist. In August, they are transplanted into open ground.
The last two methods of reproduction are the most laborious, but they give more planting material. Whatever method of reproduction takes place, in the first winter, it is better to cover the transplanted plants with spruce branches, because their root system is still weak.
Bone stern is not only popular with people, but also attracts a large number of multi-colored butterflies. Plant this unpretentious flower in your garden and admire its beauty for many years!