The Ultimate Guide To Growing Tomatoes: A List Of Tomato Growing Tips
By: Heather Rhoades
Image by fotokostic
Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable to grow in the home garden, and there’s nothing quite like sliced tomatoes on a sandwich when picked fresh from the garden. Here we have compiled all of articles with tomato growing tips; everything from the best way to plant tomatoes to information on exactly what do tomatoes need to grow.
Even if you’re new to gardening, that’s okay. Growing tomato plants just got easier with Our site’s Ultimate Guide To Growing Tomato Plants! Soon you’ll be on your way to harvesting loads of tasty tomatoes for sandwiches, salads and more.
Choosing the Types of Tomatoes You Will Grow
- Learn The Difference Between Non Hybrid Seeds And Hybrid Seeds
- Tomato Varieties & Colors
- What Is An Heirloom Tomato?
- Seedless Tomato Varieties
- Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
- Miniature Tomatoes
- Growing Roma Tomatoes
- Growing Cherry Tomatoes
- Growing Beefsteak Tomatoes
- What Are Currant Tomatoes
Where to Grow Tomatoes
- How To Grow Tomatoes In Containers
- Growing Tomatoes Upside Down
- Light Requirements For Tomatoes
- Growing Tomatoes Indoors
- Ring Culture Of Tomatoes
Start Growing Tomatoes in the Garden
- How To Start Tomato Plants From Seed
- How To Plant A Tomato
- Planting Time For Tomatoes
- Tomato Plant Spacing
- Temperature Tolerance For Tomatoes
Caring for Tomato Plants
- How to Grow Tomatoes
- Watering Tomato Plants
- Fertilizing Tomatoes
- The Best Ways To Stake Tomatoes
- How To Build A Tomato Cage
- Mulching Tomato Plants
- Should You Prune Tomato Plants
- What Are Suckers On A Tomato Plant
- Pollinate Tomatoes By Hand
- What Makes Tomatoes Turn Red
- How To Slow Tomato Plant Ripening
- Harvesting Tomatoes
- Collecting And Saving Tomato Seeds
- Tomato Plants End Of Season
Common Tomato Problems & Solutions
- Common Diseases In Tomatoes
- Tomato Plants With Yellow Leaves
- Tomato Blossom End Rot
- Tomato Ringspot Virus
- Wilting Tomato Plants
- No Tomatoes On Plant
- Bacterial Speck On Tomato Plants
- Tomato Early Blight Alternaria
- Late Blight On Tomatoes
- Septoria Leaf Canker
- Tomato Curling Leaves
- Tomato Curly Top Virus
- Tomato Leaves Turning White
- Sunscald On Tomatoes
- How To Prevent Tomato Cracking
- What Causes Tough Tomato Skin
- Yellow Shoulders On Tomatoes
- Tomato Hornworm
- Tomato Pinworms
- Tomato Blights
- Tomato Timber Rot
- Tomato Plant Allergies
This article was last updated on
Read more about Tomatoes
Ultimate Guide: The 5 Secrets to Increasing Fruit Size in Tomatoes
Growing the biggest tomatoes you possibly can is traditionally a rite of passage, something that fledgling gardeners learn over the course of years of gardening.
Year after year, they improve the soil.
Carefully tend their plants.
They miss a major pest or disease issue, or fail to fertilize correctly.
They have smaller harvests some years.
They have total crop failures other years.
Eventually, these gardeners gain the experience and touch that they need to grow the biggest, juiciest, finest tomatoes in town and they become the new standard, rather than an occasional victory.
If you’ve been trying your hand in the tomato garden and are still struggling with growing the biggest tomatoes you’ve ever seen, then give this post a go and don’t forget to share it with other struggling gardeners!
Successfully Plant Tomatoes
To have the best chance at successfully planting and growing tomatoes, place tomato transplants in the garden after the last average frost date in your area. Although seeds can be directly sown in the garden and plants can be grown to maturity in warm areas, most successful tomato gardeners buy transplants or start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before their average last frost date. Plant small bush tomato varieties 24 inches apart and larger varieties, especially sprawling indeterminate plants, 36-48 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart.
To give tomato transplants the most chance of success, plant them deep so that half the plant is underground. This planting depth is unique to tomato plants because unlike other vegetable plants, tomato plants can form roots along their stems. The extra roots help anchor the plant and provide more opportunity for water and nutrient uptake, which is especially helpful when starting with tall, leggy transplants.
To give tomato transplants a better chance for more successful growing, cut off the transplant's bottom leaves and set the root ball in a planting hole deep enough so that only the top cluster of leaves is showing above ground. If the transplant is exceptionally tall and leggy, take a trowel and dig a 4- to 6-inch deep trench in the soil. Lay the plant sideways in the trench and turn the uppermost portion of the stem vertically so the top cluster of leaves pokes out of the soil. This helps to straighten the plant.
Determinate Vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes
Once you start gathering information about growing tomatoes, you will probably notice that many cultivators and gardening experts refer to the different tomato types as being either determinate or indeterminate.
I admit that when I first started growing tomatoes this difference confused me quite a lot, but the truth is that there is nothing complicated about it.
The terms are used to differentiate the “bushy” types of tomatoes from those which grow for an indeterminate time.
In fact, determinate tomatoes have the characteristic of developing a determined number of inflorescences and stop their growth as soon as they reach this limit. Determinate tomato plants usually reach about 4 feet in height, most of the times they don’t need any support and are typically preferred by those who want to grow tomatoes in pots or indoors.
The downside of this tomato type is that they develop all the crop at once, usually in a matter of weeks after blooming and die soon after harvesting.
If you decide to grow a determined variety, remember that you should not prune your tomato plants as pruning can interfere with the growing process and reduce your yield.
Indeterminate tomato types, also called “vining” tomatoes, have an indeterminate growing period. In fact, these plants will continue growing throughout the season, will bloom continuously and will produce fruits from early summer until the first frost.
Many gardeners recommend this type to be grown in the garden, but the truth is that I highly recommend growing an indeterminate type regardless of the space you have or of where you want to grow your plants. Indeterminate tomato plants adapt well to pots and can also be grown indoors.
Indeterminate tomatoes will need a form of support, such as a stick or a tomato cage, to help them stand upright.
The best part is that you will have a constant crop, with flowers, unripe fruits and fully ripe fruits on the same plant.
How to Plant Tomatoes at Home
There's nothing more satisfying than harvesting fruit from a plant you took care off!
Tomatoes are adaptable plants which you can easily grow in a pot or a small patch of land. Aside from okra, this is something that any beginner plantita or plantito can grow.
The benefits of tomatoes
Tomatoes contain the antioxidant lycopene, which reduces your risk of heart disease. According to Healthline, they are also rich in “vitamin C, potassium, folate, and vitamin K.” Vitamin C not only boosts your immune system, it also helps manage high blood pressure and prevent iron deficiency. Vitamin K helps with blood clotting, potassium protects against kindey stones and reduces risk of stroke, and folate is needed in creating red and white blood cells.
Where to get tomato seeds
Similar to other veggies, seeds can be bought in small packets from your local grocery store, or you can harvest your own from your store bought tomatoes—simply scoop the out the fruit and allow them to dry.
How to plant tomatoes
Tomatoes can be planted directly on the ground or in a pot. The Department of Agriculture notes that the best times to plant them in the Philippines is from “September to January in hilly areas, and from November to February in lowland areas.” This is because tomatoes grow best in cooler climes however, since tomatoes are adaptable, they can still survive the heat of summer months.
You’ll need rich loam that irrigates well to plant tomatoes. For best results, go with soil with organic compost, which makes for good fertilizer. If you’re planting your tomatoes in a pot, make sure that its bottom has holes where excess water can flow out, lest you get pestered by root rot.
1. It’s best to start out in seedling trays or small pots when growing tomatoes. As these plants are food to many critters and birds, so starting them out in a safe area (or indoors) where they have ample access to sunlight and water will make things easier for you.
Make sure that your soil is damp before putting in the seeds and pushing them in around one centimeter (1 cm.) deep. One potlet/tray well per seed will do. Afterwards, cover the hole with soil and moisten it with water.
2. Once the seedlings shoot up, water them in the morning and allow them ample sunlight—but not so much that they’ll wilt.
3. Allow your tomatoes to grow up until around 10 to 12 inches before “hardening them off.” Hardening off means gradually exposing your seedlings to the environment where they’ll soon be transferred in. Tomatoes, like many plants, need time to adjust. Skipping this step my cause your plant to die.
Hardening off can take around one to one-and-a-half weeks. The Department of Agriculture advises that you “expose the seedlings up to 10 o’clock in the morning and increase the duration every day until the seedling can withstand the heat of the sun the whole day.” Make sure to keep an eye out for signs for drooping or wilting!
4. Prep the soil where you’ll be transplanting your tomato seedlings. Plow or dig into it, and take out weeds or pests. It’s important that the soil you is aired out to promote better irrigation for your plants.
5. Thirty (30) days from planting, you can now transfer your hardened off seedlings into their permanent pots or garden corner. You should only place one seedling per pot (a two-gallon container will work), or if you're planting them directly into the ground, make sure that each seedling is least 50 centimeters apart. The roots should be buried at least 5 cm deep, or depending on how tall your plant is.
6. Your transplanted seedlings may be a bit maselan for the next few days: make sure to give them shade until the can recover.
Watering your tomato plant
Water your tomato plants daily in the morning, but at the height of the dry season, you may want to water them twice a day, especially when temperatures hit the higher 30s. During this time, you may also want to afford your plants shade—a banana leaf or a used tarp will do. Make sure that your plants also have ample air circulation.
Given the right conditions, your tomato plants will flower and eventually produce tomatoes
“55 to 65 days after transplanting, or 15 to 20 days from flowering.” Best harvest the fruits once they’re shiny and red.
Buying and Storing TomatoesThe Spruce / K. Dave
" data-caption="" data-expand="300" data-tracking-container="true" />
You don't have to grow your own tomatoes to experience the crop at its best. In fact, going to your weekly farmer's market and selecting prime produce gives some people the same gratifying experience. When choosing tomatoes, select ones that are free of bruises and yield only slightly when pressed with your fingers. If you're buying tomatoes to use later on, select harder fruit and allow them to ripen on your kitchen counter. And a cardinal rule: Never refrigerate tomatoes. Doing so makes them mushy and tasteless—if you need to save a sliced tomato, simply place it in a dish on your counter and cover it with plastic.
Tomato Common Diseases And Pests
- Speck and spot: cause dark patches on the leaves, stems, and fruits. Both diseases are bacterial and very similar between them.
- How to solve: avoid watering the leaves and change the location of the plants if possible. A generous amount of mulch around the plants might help.
- Early blight: causes dark brown spots on the leaves, but this time the spots are produced by a fungus.
- How tosolve: follow the indications above.
- Late blight: causes dark green or purple-brown spots on the leaves and stems.
- Howto solve: avoid watering the leaves and use mulch to prevent infection.
- Cutworms: green or brown caterpillars that eat young plants, especially during the nighttime.How to solve: cut the weeds and maintain a clear area around the plants. Installing barriers such as cardboards and picking the bugs by hand are two other solutions.
- Aphids: cause the tomato plants to dry.How to solve: remove the aphids with a blast of water.
- Hornworms: voracious eaters of tomato fruits and plants.How to solve: Hand pick the bugs and apply organic sprays.