Homemade pool from scrap materials
We create a pool from a tire, a bath, a concrete ring and other materials at hand
The hot summer will come very soon, when the mercury column of the thermometer goes off scale and so you want to rinse yourself in the cool water of the pool.
However, a full-length pond is not a very cheap pleasure. Therefore, we recommend that home craftsmen turn on their imagination and find options for making a bathing bowl from scrap materials.
We will try to give you useful tips and consider the already implemented options for small homemade pools.
Preparation and calculation of the structure
A wise saying says: "Measure seven times, cut once." Therefore, you need to make a calculation to find out how many materials you need for a reservoir of the required size.
To make a reservoir of tires, you need a simple formula: V = π * r * h. V is the capacity of the future reservoir, π is a constant value (3.14), r is the circumference of the materials used, h is the height.
If we use a tire with a width of 1175 mm and a diameter of 3575 mm as a basis, the calculations look like this:
- calculate the radius of the tire: 3580/2 = 1.790 mm
- use the formula to find out the volume: 3.14 * 1.7902 * 1.175 = 11.82 m3
- we calculate how much sand and cement is needed: 3.14 * 1.7902 * 0.15 = 1.50 m3.
For wooden pallets, a different formula applies: V = So * h. So is the size of the base and h is the width of the pallet. It is most convenient to make a reservoir in the form of a nine square. To find out the size of the base, you need to multiply 6.18182 by the height of the pallet.
- find out the size of the base: 6.18182 * 1.22 = 8.90.
- reservoir volume: 8.90 * 0.8 = 7.12 m3.
Before making a pool in the country, it is necessary to prepare the site for work: clear the ground from leaves, grass, bushes and debris.
Construction of a pool buried in the ground.
Armed with all the necessary tools and materials, you can start laying the first stone. In other words, we are waiting for the marking of the pit for the pool and its digging. We take stakes, tape measure, cord, rope or wire and mark the construction site. The area should be 0.5 m larger than the desired pool on each side. To clearly define the boundaries, you can drive stakes into the ground around the perimeter and pull a rope or cord between them.
Formation of sand and gravel bedding.
We begin to dig the foundation pit itself of the sizes we need. Keep in mind that the bottom of the pit should be 25-30 cm deeper than the depth of the pool itself! Also, try to immediately make the walls of the pit relatively flat. In order for unnecessary water under the already finished pool not to accumulate, but to drain, the bottom of the pit is made with a slight slope, about 5-7%, and this slope is directed to the place of water drain.
Pulling out the pit, you need to make sand and gravel bedding. First, a layer of sand 20-30 cm thick is poured, and then a layer of gravel about 10 cm thick is laid. All this is compacted tightly. At this stage, you can already think about installing a bottom drain. If you decide not to drain the bottom, then it is necessary to provide a special depression in the bottom of the pool bowl, into which you can lower the drain pump and pump out the water.
Waterproofing and insulation of the outside of the pool bowl.
Before pouring the floor screed, you need to take care of its waterproofing. If this is not done, then the groundwater will slowly destroy the concrete.
Bitumen deposited rolls of the Bikrost and Technonikol types can be used as waterproofing. This material must be laid with the launch on the walls of the pit. This is necessary for the subsequent waterproofing of the outer walls of the pool bowl.
When it comes to waterproofing the side walls of the pool, then before melting bitumen rolls on them, the walls must be pre-treated with bitumen mastic.
As a waterproofing material, you can use a special bubble membrane for waterproofing foundations. It can be purchased at almost any major hardware store.
In order for the water in the pool to warm up faster and, accordingly, cool down more slowly, it must be insulated. They insulate not only the side walls of the pool, but also its bottom. As a bottom insulation, you need to use a special insulation with a high density - foam glass. In no case should you use foam for these purposes. Over time, it can sag under the weight of water and thus cracks appear between the bottom and walls of the pool bowl.
As a heater for the walls of the bowl, you can use extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 50 mm. This insulation is glued after the walls are waterproofed.
Pouring concrete to the screed of the pool floor.
Before pouring the floor screed, the reinforcement mesh must be installed. For these purposes, you can use fittings with a diameter of 8-15mm. The mesh size should be approximately 150-200mm. This mesh should be at some distance from the tamped pad. This can be done using props - large stones, pieces of board or brick.
Before pouring the screed, you need to install metal or wooden beacons in order not to miss the height level and to control the thickness of the screed.
Pouring concrete screed.
At this stage, it is advisable to lift the reinforcement rods up along the future walls of the pool. In this way, the reinforced floor chord will be connected to the reinforced wall chord.
Pouring must be done in one day, so that the slab is monolithic. If this is not done, then when the soil subsides or moves, cracks may appear in the slab.
The thickness of the concrete-monolithic slab must be at least 200mm.
To avoid uneven drying of the concrete slab and the appearance of cracks, it should be watered periodically with water. This is especially true in the hot season.
Construction of pool walls made of in-situ concrete.
Pool walls up to 1.8m deep should be approximately 250mm thick. This must be taken into account when installing the formwork.
Before making the formwork, it is necessary to make the reinforcement grid of the pool walls. To do this, place reinforcing rods around the perimeter of the excavation in 30 cm increments. Maintain a 50 mm gap between the reinforcement and the edges of the future pool. Fasten the reinforcement rods with wire.
Now you can start making formwork and pour walls... This requires a 30 mm board. Instead of boards, you can use laminated moisture-resistant plywood.
If you want to create a pool of any unusual shape, then, therefore, the formwork must be the same shape.
In addition, the formwork structure needs to be reinforced with stiffeners and spacers. It is not worth saving on spacers. With a lack of them, concrete can squeeze out the formwork and, as a result, you get not a flat wall, but a convex one.
When installing the formwork, you need to try to put it as evenly as possible. This will reduce the cost of leveling the walls with plaster.
It is worth noting that at this stage it is necessary to provide for the presence of mounting holes required for the pool equipment (skimmer, lighting shades, nozzles, counterflow). You also need to allocate a place for a pit in which the filter station will be located. The dimensions of the pit inside should be approximately 1000x1500mm.
It is recommended to pour concrete in horizontal layers of 150 mm, slowly and gradually so that it is better distributed. After a few days, the concrete should cure well.
To avoid air bubbles in the monolith of the walls, a deep vibrator should be used.
Construction of walls from expanded polystyrene or expanded clay concrete blocks .
Pool walls do not have to be made of in-situ concrete. They can be made from other materials.
The construction of such a pool begins with a pit. After that, a concrete floor screed with mandatory reinforcement is performed. Reinforcement of the floor must be done so that reinforcement bars stick out from it along the perimeter of the pool walls. After the walls are erected, the excess protruding reinforcement is cut off. Polystyrene foam blocks will be put on these rods. Instead of expanded polystyrene blocks, you can use any others, for example, expanded clay concrete block with round holes.
Pool floor screed with protruding fittings.
Between each row of blocks, be sure to put a masonry mesh with a bar diameter of at least 2.5 mm. Reinforcement of the masonry is necessary, since when jumping into the water, a wave is created that hits the walls with great force. She will not be able to break the board, but cracks can form.
Installation of polystyrene foam blocks.
After installing all the blocks, the free space inside them is filled with concrete. Thus, these blocks act as permanent formwork.
Filling of expanded polystyrene blocks with concrete.
After that, the equipment for the pool is installed, the outer walls are waterproofed and the pit around the pool bowl is filled up.
Pool equipment installation.
Video: a pool made of polystyrene foam blocks.
Backfilling the pool bowl.
Backfilling is performed only after the installation of the pool equipment (skimmer, lantern, nozzles). The pit should be filled with sand only with tamping and pouring in layers. This is necessary to insure against frost heaving of the soil. Over time, the backfill around the pool will sag slightly and then it will be possible to make a concrete blind area.
Liquid waterproofing and PVC sheet for sealing the pool.
When you are convinced that the walls are completely dry, then you can proceed to waterproofing the inside of the pool.
Before applying waterproofing, the walls must be primed and leveled with a special waterproof plaster.
Plaster should be mandatory for facade work, and even better, special all-season for swimming pools.
The plaster should be applied with a glass mesh. That is, a layer of plaster is applied, then a fiberglass mesh and another layer of plaster. Without such a mesh, the plaster layer will not last long. The energy of the shock waves from a passing person will inevitably and quickly destroy him.
After that, it is again primed and waterproofed, for example, ceresite 66.
When using liquid waterproofing, it is applied with a brush in two layers. Moreover, the first and second layers should differ in the direction of the layer application. For example, the first coat is applied horizontally only. And the second is only vertical.
After applying the waterproofing, you can paint the inside of the pool with rubber paint. The rubber paint forms an additional water-repellent layer. This paint can be used as a finish, but you need to understand that it is not durable and will have to be renewed once every 2-3 years.
Painting the pool bowl with rubber paint.
If the pool is located in a warm room, and not outdoors, then you can tiled it with ceramic tiles or mosaics. This finish is more durable and of better quality, but it costs much more.
On the street, ceramic tile cladding is not used, since seasonal temperature drops contribute to its flaking from the wall.
In pools, PVC sheets can also be used as waterproofing. Such a canvas can be seen on the awnings of trucks.PVC cloth in the pool bowl.
Firms that are engaged in the manufacture of such awnings can, to order, make a sealed basin for the pool from such a canvas.
Such waterproofing has a number of disadvantages:
- over time, the canvas "dubs" and becomes less elastic, so its service life is about 5 years.
- If the PVC is colored, the chemicals used to clean the pool can discolor it. Also, the water in the pool acts as a lens and sunlight passing through such a lens also accelerates the discoloration of the PVC bowl.
The pool bowl made of PVC linen can be used in pools deepened into the ground and in frames on the surface of the ground. The principle is the same, the main thing is that for such a bowl there is a container of the appropriate shape.
In fact, if there is a pit for such a bowl, then it only remains to level and fix it.
Before laying the PVC bowl, the pit should be thoroughly vacuumed so that no small debris remains in it. Also, in order to get the most even floor, it is recommended to put the thickest linoleum under the PVC bowl. It will hide all the imperfections and unevenness of the floor.
Pool using polypropylene liner.
If you don't want to build a concrete pool, you can use a polypropylene liner. These are ready-made sealed pool bowls made of plastic with a thickness of 5mm.
This liner does not require additional waterproofing. All it needs is a specially prepared pit.
Propylene has one drawback - the design of the bowl is limited by the color of the plastic. Also, if you plan to use chlorine disinfectants during the operation of the pool, then we advise you to choose a white bowl, since the colored one will lose its color from chlorine.
The construction of a pool of this type must begin with digging a pit and an ebb of a reinforced concrete screed. This stage is performed in the same way as when building a pool bowl made of concrete or expanded polystyrene blocks.
Since the material of the pool bowl is a plastic of small thickness, a perfectly flat floor is required under it. Otherwise, the water pressure can bend or tear the plastic.
Immediately before installing the pool bowl, you need to sweep or vacuum the concrete screed well. If a stone or any solid object gets between the screed and the bottom of the plastic pool bowl, a bulge will appear at this place and the color of the plastic will change to white.
After cleaning the screed from debris, you should put insulation, and already install the pool bowl on it. It is best to use foam glass as insulation, as it is very strong in compression and can easily withstand the weight of the water in the pool.
No construction equipment is required to install the bowl in the pit. It can be installed by several people.
Installation of a polypropylene pool bowl.
After installing the plastic bowl, its walls can be insulated by gluing foam or other insulation between the ribs of the bowl.
Now you can make the piping and install the necessary equipment for the pool.
The space between the side of the bowl and the wall of the pit is filled with a sand-cement mixture. The mixture is prepared in a ratio of 4: 1 (4 parts of sand and 1 part of cement). Before sprinkling, it is necessary to pour water into the pool bowl to a height of about 30 cm. The water will hold the bowl in place and prevent the walls from bending inward.
Performing sprinkling of the pool bowl.
The sprinkling should be done in layers with a thickness of 30-40 cm. After that, the mixture is well spilled with water and left for 3-4 days to dry.
Then the water inside the pool is added to the level of backfill and the whole cycle is repeated until the bowl is backfilled to ground level.
If the edge of the pool is above ground level, then it will be necessary to install the formwork, make reinforcement strapping and pour concrete flush with the upper edge of the pool bowl.
Concreting the upper bar of the pool bowl.
After the concrete hardens, the edge of the pool is arranged and the surrounding area is decorated.
Swimming pools are installed according to the same principle, the bowls of which are made of fiberglass or other similar materials.
Video: pool from polypropylene.
Pool made of plastic bottles
Plastic bottles have long established themselves as a useful, practical and affordable material that is widely used in everyday life, especially at their summer cottage. The manufacturing process of such a pool does not require large cash costs and deep knowledge in the field of construction. In addition to bottles, you will need: sand, gravel, concrete solution.
- Having chosen the shape of the future pool, we prepare the site: remove the sod and fill in a layer of sand and gravel.
- Fill the bottom with concrete.
- We start laying the bottles tightly into the walls and bottom of the pool, while it is very important to fill both vertical and horizontal seams - this will ensure maximum tightness.
- We design and decorate the pool.
If you have set yourself the task of building a pool yourself, choose the method that suits you and feel free to start! The result will pleasantly surprise all family members and guests, and will also become a source of pride and a highlight of the suburban area.