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Do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link mesh

 Do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link mesh


The netting netting is an ideal material for the construction of a light fence or fence. The sun's rays pass through it perfectly, so it can often be found when fencing garden beds and gardens. It is also often used to separate the territories of neighboring plots. Installation of a fence using a chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to erect such a fence, it is enough just to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can cope directly with the construction.

Mesh netting - what kind of "fruit"

The chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive when compared with wood or corrugated board. You can buy such a mesh at any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of purchasing such material, it is very convenient to transport it.

There is no need to hire specialized construction crews to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And this can be done in two ways: by sectional installation and by the method of tensioning the material.

The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

  • it is an inexpensive material.
  • no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. It's easy and simple to build.
  • the site is not hidden from sunlight.
  • the chain-link has a long service life.
  • to decorate such a fence, you can let climbing plants grow on it.
  • having installed such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.

Everything would be fine, but such material also has drawbacks:

  • it's hard to hide privacy behind a grid. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
  • no sound insulating properties.
  • if you put a non-galvanized mesh, then it rusts quickly enough.

Grid views (table)

Type nameDescriptionPhoto
Non-galvanized networkThe cheapest material presented. Only temporary fences are made with it, since rust quickly appears on it, often even immediately, as soon as the first rains have passed. Its service life is no more than three to four years. Of course, such a mesh can be painted or coated with water-repellent agents. But this must be repeated with some frequency. And as a result, it can be much more expensive than purchasing a galvanized look

Non-galvanized chain-link in a roll

Galvanized netIt is initially protected from moisture. Visually more attractive when compared with the previous chain-link. It looks beautiful on a sectional fence. Naturally, it costs a little more than the non-galvanized version. But the game is worth the candle. This option is much more practical, because its service life is many times longer, and it does not need to be tinted.

Galvanized chain-link

PlasticizedMesh with a special polymer coating that does not corrode. This coating is not only very durable, but also has a wide range of colors. It is possible to choose a color that will match, for example, the roof of the house. Most often you can see the blue and green chain-link. Less commonly red, white, or yellow

Polymer coated chain-link

What materials need to be purchased, drawing

  1. Directly the chain-link itself.
  2. Wooden, iron or concrete support posts.
  3. The tools with which you will tighten the mesh. They can be used, for example, fittings or clamps.
  4. A level to help you check the evenness of the structure.
  5. Roulette for measuring grid parameters.
  6. Anti-corrosion primer.
  7. Paint for painting the pillars of the support.
  8. Cement mortar.
  9. Crushed stone and sand.
  10. Welding machine.
  11. For the sectional method of installing the fence, you will also need steel corners of 4x4 centimeters in size.

    schematic indication of the elements of the fence from the chain-link

Pay attention to the choice of support posts. Most conveniently, pipes are made of metal with a square section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the net. Some people use old pipes, on which they weld these hooks on their own.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Most often, for the construction of the fence, a 150 cm wide net with 4-5 cm cells is used. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. In order to prevent sagging of the fence, the support posts are installed at a distance of 200-250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, one roll requires five posts. The support pillars should protrude 100 millimeters above the ground above the netting. They should go into the ground by 1/3 of their length.

Now it is clear that for the construction of, for example, a 30-meter fence, it is necessary to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 posts 230–150 centimeters long. Each of the posts must have at least three hooks. If they are on the poles initially, then no problem. And if they are not, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 posts by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the posts using a welding machine.

If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set on the basis that the length of one is 200-250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, you can calculate the required number of metal corners, for which, by the way, there are also recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use corners of 4x4 centimeters, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.

We put a tension fence from a chain-link

A stretch fence can be delivered much faster than a sectional fence and it will be less expensive in terms of cost. To erect a fence, you just need to mark the territory, prepare pits for the support posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's look at the process step by step.

Fastening the netting of the chain-link

  1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the previously cleaned area. First, mark the locations where the outermost pillars will be located. Drive in the pegs in these places. Pull a rope between them, 100 millimeters above the ground, which will serve as a kind of reference for the intermediate posts. If the fence is not straight, but broken, then it is necessary to mark the corners of the kinks with pegs and connect each one in turn with a rope to an adjacent peg. Using a rope guide, drive in the pegs in the installation meta of the intermediate posts with the same pitch equal to the width of the run.

    Installation of a chain-link tension fence

  2. The next stage is the preparation of pits for support pillars. For convenience, it is recommended to use a drill. Holes need to be made in the places where you installed the pegs. Their depth should be equal to 0.8-1.2 meters, and their diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the support posts. The bottom of each pit must be carefully tamped and covered with a sand-crushed stone half (tamp it too).
  3. Now mounts the support posts. But they must first be prepared: cleaned of oil stains and remove rust, grind and weld the hooks, if they are not there. Before welding the hooks, the places for them need to be cleaned and descaled. Then the pillars need to be primed and painted. After they have dried, they can be submerged in the ground. Using a level, set them level and secure with spacers. Pour the grout into the pit, periodically piercing it with a rebar to catch air bubbles.
  4. Now we attach the mesh to the chain-link. To do this, you do not need to unwind the entire roll. Place it in an upright position, attach it to the first support post and hook the roll onto the hooks. Leave 100-150 millimeters from the ground to the bottom edge of the net. It is not necessary to fasten it close to the ground so that the cells of the net do not entangle the grass and do not accumulate debris.
  5. Unwind the roll carefully to the second support post. Place the roll on it and stretch the net. For uniform tension in the upper cells of the chain-link roll, pass a steel rod 150 centimeters long. It is much more convenient to do this work with an assistant. You, for example, will pull on the net, and the second person will put it on the hooks. Thus, the mesh is stretched over all support pillars.

Even if you've pulled the net really really well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you just need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel rods through the cells of the chain-link. They must be passed through the cells through the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the upper edge of the mesh, and welded to the support posts.

Some people thread such a wire along the lower edge of the chain-link 200 millimeters from the surface of the earth.

DIY sectional fence

Sectional mesh fence chain-link

First, you need to mark and install the support posts. The process is practically no different from the previous one. Unless, hooks are not attached to the posts, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They must be welded one at a time from the top and bottom of the support pillar, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.

Installation diagram of a fence from a mesh chain-link

  1. First, the frame of the fence is assembled. Establish at what distance the support posts are located from each other and subtract 150-200 millimeters (frame width) from this number. The height of the section will be the same as the width of the netting. Cut corners from steel to the desired size and weld a rectangular section from them. Then remove the scale. Grind the frame inside and outside.

    Installation of the chain-link on the frame

  2. Now prepare the network. Place a roll of netting on the ground, unwind 200–250 centimeters from it and carefully cut a piece with a grinder. It is necessary to thread reinforcement rods along the extreme row of cells from all sides. Do not connect them to each other.
  3. We mount sections. Lay the net over the frame and weld the top reinforcement bar to the inside of the frame corner. Tighten the chain-link well and weld the lower reinforcement to the frame. Secure the side rods. The section is ready. Now it must be raised to a vertical position, brought to the support posts and welded to the metal plates.
  4. Secure all sections in this way. Then cover them with primer and paint.

    Sectional chain-link fence

When welding the section to the supports, try to place the welds on the same level. Even the smallest deviation will be clearly visible and the aesthetic appearance will be lost.

We decorate the fence (table)

Decoration optionDescriptionPhoto
Colored chain-linkThis is the easiest way to customize your fence. You can paint it yourself or purchase it already painted. This also includes a plasticized mesh. A competent choice of shade will perfectly complement the overall design of your site

Colored grid

Climbing plantsThis method is also quite simple and popular among summer residents. Bindweed, climatis or morning glory can be put on the net. The netting netting is a very good support for these types of plants. Thus, the boring fence seems to come to life and transform. Naturally, it looks beautiful only in the warm season. In winter, the fence will lose its attractiveness. Such a fence will hide your privacy from neighbors' eyes for a while.

Climbing plants

Plant trees and shrubs around the perimeterThis option, like the previous one, is classified as a "hedge". Only some species of plants remain green in the cold, and the fence will not lose its attractiveness. Thuja, yew, climbing rose, wild rose, spirea are planted. Often the choice falls on fruiting plants, for example, blackberries, barberries, chokeberries and others. Naturally, such a fence needs constant care. This decorative design of the fence, too, like the previous one, will hide you from the eyes passing by

Trees and bushes along the fence

Decorative chain-linkThere is a company in Denmark that manufactures fences. It was they who came up with such a network. In it, the wire is weaved so that a variety of patterns are obtained that look like lace from a distance.

Decorative mesh

Fence gardenYou can easily hang various pots and containers for flowers on the net. Sometimes garden plants are planted in them. The second option will appeal to those who have a small plot of land. As a result, it is both beautiful and useful, and because of the fence, no one sees what you are doing on the site

Fence garden

Street artMany have old skeins of knitting threads at home. They can be cross-stitched onto the fence mesh. Thus, interesting, individual and striking fences are obtained. This type of decoration is gaining its popularity in Europe and is already considered an urban art. Why not decorate our fences in this way. Moreover, it is quite cheap.

Street art from threads

Photo gridThe use of a polymer mesh with an image applied to it will help to give the fence an individual and beautiful look in a very short time. It is durable, is not afraid of bad weather, the color does not fade. The pattern on the net is located on one side only. On the other hand, the chain-link is white.

Photo grid

Video: self-installation of a tension fence from a chain-link

Self-installation of such a fence is a simple process. Now you know that. Such a fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to assemble, durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!


The original fence from the mesh-chain-link for the suburban area

In order to protect their possessions in a summer cottage or in the private sector, they use a fence. The construction of such a structure requires additional investment of money and time. In order to save money, you can make a fence with your own hands. For this, a fence made of a chain-link mesh is the best fit.


Benefits

Some owners of cottages and houses are skeptical about installing fences made of corrugated board with their own hands, fixed on poles. They do not believe that such fences will truly protect their territory. However, the masters can assure that the profile sheet will last a long time. A strong fence is more reliable than a chain-link mesh, wooden fences and many other structures.

This material is suitable for long-term use and has other advantages:

It doesn't take a lot of time for the master to erect the fence. Moreover, a fence made of corrugated board with metal posts is usually installed in a short time. You can do without special skills and expensive construction equipment. The most difficult task will be welding, but if you do not know how to do it and you do not have a welding machine, you can easily skip this step. Even non-professionals can work on a fence from a profile sheet. To carry it out, craftsmen use simple tools. They can be found in household outbuildings. Prices for building materials are quite reasonable, so such fences are considered one of the most affordable.

The profile sheet is not continuous, like a picket fence, solid, so it will completely hide from strangers what is happening in the local area. You yourself choose what its height will be. On order, profiled material will be delivered to you in any length. Even low fences from it will protect the courtyard from prying eyes.

Some owners of suburban dolms wrongly believe that such a structure will not protect the house and garden from intruders. It is more difficult to climb over a profiled fence than over a solid fence. The edges of the sheets are sharp, so it is difficult to grasp them.

Follow the installation order and order good quality raw materials.Then the structure will be durable. She will serve for more than a dozen years.

A metal fence made of durable material will not only be a reliable fence, it looks good, it can be matched in color so that it matches the roof or the garden plot as a whole. Decking can be of different colors and shades. Compounds with protective properties, which cover its surface, retain the properties of the metal. The paints do not fade when exposed to sunlight.

Maintenance of the structure does not require much time and effort. If dirt appears, wash it off with normal household cleaning agents, and then rinse the fence with clean water. Some types of profiled sheets are covered with polymer compounds, so dirt does not stick to them, and a fence made of profiled sheet with metal pillars is cleaned with rainwater.

A solid fence will not only protect against unwanted attention to your property, but also muffle noise from the street, for example, when cars pass by. Of course, one should not hope for complete soundproofing, but the owners will be more comfortable in their territory.

The choice of corrugated board

If you decide to choose profiled sheets as a fence, feel free to start purchasing material. How do you select the raw materials to create a solid structure?

Here's what we advise you to pay attention to:

  1. Appearance. The sheets should be even in length and width. Examine the surface for any delamination, damage or scratches. Otherwise, the material will collapse after a while.
  2. Res. Its length is determined by the master during profiling. It is desirable that the sheet be cut with a guillotine. If a grinder is used for this, irregularities and notches will appear on the metal, which in the future will lead to the appearance of rust.
  3. The sheets should overlap perfectly.
  4. Warranty card.

Which metal profile is best for installing a reliable fence made of profiled sheet? Craftsmen recommend choosing the C-8 brand for the manufacture of temporary fencing. For a more stable structure, select grades C-10 through C-18.

The color matching depends on your preferences and needs.


Preparation for construction: calculation of the area

We will build a fence from PET bottles, as they allow you to choose any type of fencing.

  • To lay a capital fence, we need cement mortar and 100 plastic bottles (per 1 sq. M. Area).
  • A decorative sectional fence will require 30 bottles (per 1 sq. M.) And strong wire or metal rods.
  • For fencing small flower beds and front gardens, you need about 10 bottles (1 running meter / meter).

The fence can be built from any PET bottles. The main thing is that they are the same in size and shape in order to avoid deformation of the structure.

If you collect bottles of different colors, then you can build a fence with an original pattern or ornament.

The choice of material depending on the purpose: tips for choosing

  • Plastic bottles should be selected only in good condition: no damage, dents or other defects.
  • Before starting work, it is recommended to wash all bottles and remove the labels from them. It is best to use bottles made of durable plastic.
  • For the construction of a capital fence, a certain amount of cement, washed sand and crushed stone will be required.

The advantages of plastic (PET) bottles as a building material:

  • Availability and low cost. You can collect or find bottles for a fence yourself in a few months. And if you buy a lot of mineral water or lemonade in the summer, then you will have the right amount in a week.
  • Strength, elasticity and lightness. A variety of structures resistant to mechanical damage can be built from PET bottles.
  • Water and moisture resistant. Plastic bottles are not afraid of water, they are resistant to the development of fungi and mold. They do not fade in the sun. On contact with fire, the plastic will only melt.
  • Plastic bottles have good thermal insulation properties.

  • Plastic can be strongly deformed from temperature extremes. In the hot sun, it can shrink and shrink, and crack in the cold.
  • Some people think that plastic is not a sufficiently environmentally friendly material, but on this issue everyone has a personal opinion. Since plastic products surround us everywhere, a fence made of PET bottles is unlikely to greatly harm the environment and human health.

Calculation of the material for the structure

  • To erect a solid fence 20 meters long and 1.5 meters high, we will need about 3,000 plastic bottles if we build the fence in one row.
  • If you want to build a small decorative sectional fence around the front garden, then for a 10-meter fence 1 meter high, you will need 300 bottles.
  • For a low fence of a flower bed, with a circumference of 6 meters, we need about 60 bottles.

We may also need wooden and metal pillars for the construction of supports. When installed every 2 meters for a ten-meter fence, we need 6 bars - 2 meters long.

To create a frame, you need 10 or 20 wooden boards, depending on the method of fastening the fence. The size of the boards is 2 meters.

Instruments

To build a fence from bottles, you will not need a lot of tools, since here you will have to work more with your hands.

  • Concrete mixer
  • Trowel, spatula
  • Building level
  • Roulette
  • Plumb line.


Do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link mesh: all installation methods with instructions and advice

How to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands - all installation options and decor ideas

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has served as a reliable version of the material for fences for more than a century. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer box, a sports ground and a land plot - such a grid can be found everywhere.

There is no alternative to it in the delimitation of neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is forbidden to install boundary fences made of opaque materials.

The task of how to make a fence from a chain-link with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which mesh netting to choose for the fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous web of wire spirals intertwined. This design allows for easy splicing of fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common dimensions are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

In the manufacture of the mesh, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; most of the chain-link on sale is made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

  • Uncoated ("black"). It is better not to use a mesh from it for capital fences, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the "advisers".
  • Zinc coated is the most common option. The galvanized chain-link will fade after a while, but it will not rust, having served for more than a dozen years.
  • Stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
  • In a polymer shell. Such a mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (subject to choosing a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies through a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized Wire Mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands, you can not only build a fence from a chain-link, but also weave the net itself. There are many drawings of a manual machine for weaving it. The manufacture of the machine will require some milling, welding and simple turning work. One person is able to make up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, in the presence of wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for the construction of fencing

There are several options for making a fence from a chain-link mesh. In any case, the most responsible and laborious process is the marking of the territory and the installation of support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing the fence from the grid, you should accurately, according to the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think over the location of the gates and gates. To clear the place for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then hammer in the poles (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of the future corner posts and supports for the gates and wickets.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to pull a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed every 2-2.5 m from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the posts should be between 2 and 2.5 m

In this way, the number of corner posts is found, the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the above distance by the number of posts. Places of future supports must also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods of mounting the supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties in attaching the mesh.

The best solution for making a fence from a chain-link with your own hands will be metal racks from a round or shaped square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next, we will consider this particular option.

Methods for installing support pillars

You can install metal racks:

  • just by driving them into the ground
  • clog up - place in a pre-prepared hole and cover it with stones or large rubble, constantly tamping
  • partially (when the end of the rack is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in previously prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - with the determination of the type of soil, the level of groundwater flow and the depth of soil freezing.

But for an easy fence from the chain-link mesh, possible movements of the supports of several centimeters in height are insignificant, therefore, in practice, a simple rule is used - at least 40% of the column must be in the ground.

That is, a fence post with a height of 1.5 m should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but complete concreting is optimal.

In practice, the process looks like this:

  1. Install corner (or end, in the presence of wickets and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
  2. Prepare pits for intermediate posts according to the preliminary marking. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil greatly facilitates the work!
  3. After the concrete has hardened, pull the cord over the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports to be installed, another one from the bottom to control the placement of all the posts on the same line.
  4. To facilitate the alignment of the posts in height, fill the bottom of the pits with sand, gravel or fine gravel and simply change the height of this pillow by adding or removing material.
  5. Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control; if necessary, install stops and supports.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week), the racks must be primed and painted.

Installation of intermediate supports

Instructions for building different types of chain-link fences

Before you start building a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength.

Indeed, in one case, you need a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with a wire of 4-5 mm for grazing livestock, in the other - a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills at the borders of neighboring areas. There is a variant for each task.

The simplest fence for the site

The easiest way to mount a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or preferably two.

  1. Roll the chain-link before fastening on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the uprights.
  2. Check the height of the spiral wire, if necessary screw in or unscrew the offset ones. The fact is that it is not visible in the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh, it will be impossible to align the links.
  3. Bend the edges of the spirals immediately with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
  4. Unwind the net further as it is fastened.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the racks, but it is highly desirable to fasten not the mesh itself (in order to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. For one more similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant must pull the canvas.

At the same time, no blocks, levers or complex structures are required for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts of one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support as follows:

  • just tie it to the post with soft wire. The fastest way, but not too pretty
  • use not wire, but special clamps

Fastening with clamps

  • put the pin on the hooks prepared in advance and bend them. Hooks made of pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the post at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is stretched

Fastening with hooks

  • weld a rod (not a canvas!) to a post in several places, having received a non-separable connection
  • sew the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into the previously welded pipe sections with a diameter of 1 / 4ʺ, 15-20 mm long. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the small length of the segments will allow them to fit into the mesh cells. The most aesthetic way of collapsible connection.

End and corner posts will experience constant loads from the tension of the mesh, so braces (stops) are imperative.

Corner post mounting method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and prevent sagging of the curtain, one (from above) or several rows of rope or wire 4-6 mm thick can be pulled.

Such strings can be attached to the supports and pulled in any convenient way, but the most practical option is with the help of special ties or tensioners.

Tie for string tension

When installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands using stretch marks, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3m. But it should be borne in mind that when stretching, the load on the extreme and corner supports increases many times, therefore, their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the fabric is through stitching along the length of the mesh. But this process is long and laborious, and with an increase in the diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire, the complexity increases.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first pulled, then the chain-link is installed similarly to the simple method described above, and then, after 200-300 mm, the mesh is tied to the braces with galvanized knitting wire with a section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed racks, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, therefore the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not "fold" when the mesh is stretched and the subsequent operation of the fence. With this method of installation, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Mesh netting on a frame with lags

Since most of the effort will be applied at the top of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or even tension the strings, as in the previous method. Tighten the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good start for the future, if it becomes necessary to decorate the fence by hanging additional material on it. Also, you can easily replace the netting with a profiled sheet or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

  • this design is the most beautiful and flawless from an artistic perspective
  • each section is a separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss of protective properties
  • if necessary, the sections can be dismantled and the pillars can be used to build new fences
  • the possibility of installation with a large slope of the enclosed area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be pulled when the ground level rises no more than 6 ° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, a sectional fence with uniform steps is the correct solution.

Sectional fence with ledges

For the manufacture of the section, a solid-rolled steel corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm is used.

  1. Using a "grinder" (better - an assembly saw), cut off the parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
  2. Spread out the frame on a flat surface (or level all corners with shims), carefully measure the diagonals. Boil the frame to avoid twisting it should be in opposite corners.
  3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to renovate the places burned from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
  4. It is imperative to install the netting through the rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as well as to the posts). At the same time, fix the first pin on the side of the frame, after stretching the mesh - on the opposite side, and then above and below.
  5. Do not use excessive force when tightening, otherwise the section may "fold" inward. Fastening from all sides, even with minimal tension, will not allow the canvas to "flutter" and sag.
  6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections according to the already known distance between the posts).
  7. To fasten the sections to the posts, weld metal dies in advance (approximately 6 * 60 * 250 mm).
  8. The frames can be fastened to the dies both by electric welding and by bolts, having received a collapsible design.

Approximate scheme of securing sections

: do-it-yourself mesh fence

How to decorate a mesh netting - original solutions

Many do not want to make a fence from a chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A laborious way, but beautiful and lasting.

The use of polymeric multi-colored ribbons and cords. Bright, smart, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques from ribbons and cords

Live plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the period of active vegetation and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if you do not remove the dried stems in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light shading mesh. They come in a variety of colors and degrees of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, therefore they will not be suitable for a simple stretch fence.

Light shading mesh application

Photo fencing made of PVC or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

Decorating the fence with a photo grid

On this question, how to make a fence from a grid with your own hands, can be considered closed. Success in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!


Methods for attaching the lag to the posts

Metal logs are welded either between the posts or in the front. The first method is more laborious, and more waste is obtained: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with such an arrangement, the lag structure turns out to be more rigid: each pillar serves as a support for the sheet and it "walks" less, if desired, you can put a couple of additional fasteners along it.

If you weld pipes in front of the post (from the side of the street), there is less work, but you still have to cut it and there will be waste: it is necessary that the welded seam of the two sections falls on the post. Unless you guess the distance so that they lie flat. Then you purchase the materials in advance, and then calculate the step of installing the pillars.

There are two ways to weld metal logs to the posts.

For fastening wooden bars, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled in them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.

There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated board without welding. For this there is a special fastening element called the X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is attached to self-tapping screws.

X-bracket for a fence made of profiled sheet without welding

This is how it looks when mounted.


Installation of fences from corrugated board - price for work and material

To make an estimate and calculate how much a fence made of corrugated board costs, you should know the main cost items and the cost of the material, which are shown in the table.

subject to do-it-yourself installation
(the price of the material is indicated)

The cost of installing a fence made of corrugated board

subject to the involvement of employees
(only work without material)

The total cost of building a fence made of corrugated board is determined based on the need for a particular type of material.

The cost of installing a “turnkey” corrugated board fence (price per meter of work, materials with installation) is shown in the table.

Conclusion

A fence made of corrugated board looks great, withstands any temperature extremes and all types of atmospheric phenomena. But there are two weak points - windage and poor-quality installation. We hope that the information provided here will make it possible to take into account and promptly eliminate both of these shortcomings.


Watch the video: Fence Contractor Reacts to DIY Chain Link Stretching Technique