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Sun-bathed grapes Transformation at your summer cottage

Sun-bathed grapes Transformation at your summer cottage


Grapes, like no other culture, are caressed by the warmth of earthly juices and sunlight. And this is no coincidence. Indeed, according to an ancient legend, it was the Earth and the Sun who were the parents of the vine. The color of the fruit depended on their care. For those who were matured under the light of the morning dawn, the parents gave a delicate pink tint. Those that poured into the midday sun were rewarded with golden glitter. And those that matured under the cover of twilight were presented with blue and black flowers of a scorching hot night.

Three main whales of the Transfiguration

Grape Transfiguration did not fit into this legend. Its color turned out to be absolutely fantastic - golden-pink with delicate tints and transitions. The authorship of this miracle belongs to Viktor Krainov, a breeder from the city of Novocherkassk, the author of more than 45 hybrid forms of solar culture. He called his masterpiece a real breakthrough and revolution in the domestic selection of table grapes. Still would! Indeed, the list of the main qualities of the Transfiguration variety includes:

  • high commercial properties of fruits;
  • super low cracking;
  • practical absence of gray rot during cultivation.

These are the three main whales: you can rely on them in further hybridization and for them you can safely recommend this variety for breeding on large and small private plantations.

The Transformation got into the annals of the State Register of the Russian Federation for the Protection of Breeding Achievements only in 2014, after the author left this world, and his associates continued to work on the variety. The hybrid form obtained from crossing the varieties Kishmish Radiant and Talisman turned out to be very successful. The early ripening period of only 105–110 days made it possible to grow crops not only in the regions traditional for viticulture, but also in the temperate zone of Russia, where the duration of the warm summer season was 3.5–4 months.

The color of the fruits of the Transfiguration can vary from golden to pink. It all depends on the degree of sunlight

Almost perfect makeover

Why almost? Because, the variety has much more positive qualities than negative ones. Culture has become a favorite not only of experienced winegrowers, but also of beginners. After all, working out and consolidating your grape-growing skills on it is no more difficult than growing potatoes.

Ideal for growing from Kaliningrad to the Urals

From the description made by the state. Register of the Russian Federation, it follows that the Transfiguration grape under any weather conditions gives a full-fledged stepchild's harvest without a tendency to pea, while maintaining bright taste, marketability and transportability. The flowers are bisexual with good pollination, therefore, neither planting seedlings of other varieties, nor artificial pollination of the variety is required. The grapes form many large cylindro-conical bunches, which, with proper care, ensure high yields. At the same time, the mass of one bunch can vary in the range from 500 to 1200 grams, and in some cases even exceed this weight. Large, elongated berries with an average weight of 10–11 grams, up to 4 cm in length and a light waxy bloom, turned out to be very fleshy and juicy. The considerable sugar content in fruits - up to 20 g, gave them both sweetness and pleasant sourness at the same time. According to the results of tasting, the variety was given an assessment from experts of 8.5 points.

The Transfiguration variety is considered large-fruited. Its fruits reach 4 cm in length.

Among professionals, Transfiguration is considered a table variety, but this does not mean at all that making homemade wine from it is contraindicated. On the contrary, the drink turns out to be delicate, semi-sweet, rich and completely free of aromas of wine vapors.

If we add to the description also high yield, increased frost resistance, resistance to grape diseases above the average, then we get an ideal variety for growing from Kaliningrad to the Urals and from the south of Karelia to the outskirts of Krasnodar Territory.

The average mass of a bunch of grapes Transformation is about 800 grams

In general, over the years of working with it, the sun berry has confirmed its name - Transfiguration. After all, she proved that she is able not only to transform in color, but also to adapt to the climatic characteristics of a number of regions of Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, the Baltic states, not to mention the Transcaucasia and the Central Asian republics. It is important to note that winegrowers in southern latitudes have the opportunity to harvest twice a year - in July and October, bringing its productivity up to 20 kg per vine. Not every fruit is capable of such generosity!

Weaknesses of the Transfiguration variety

The position of the author of the article and the summer resident, who had grapes of this variety on her six hundred square meters, obliges to report on the shortcomings. And there are only two of them:

  • The variety is not suitable for regions with winter frosts above -200C, after all, the Transfiguration belongs to the covering cultures.
  • The variety requires constant care, from examining the first seedlings when buying planting material and ending with the technology of constructing a winter shelter.

In order not to make your own mistakes when growing Transfiguration grapes, it is recommended to study someone else's experience. It might be helpful. Therefore, we move on to the stages of cultivation.

Reviews of experienced and newbies

This vine grows in an open sunny space, therefore the color is golden

Perfect fruit with even color and sweet taste is a winegrower's dream

Agricultural technology from choosing a seedling to planting in the ground

Perhaps, to someone out of habit, the process of agricultural technology will seem difficult. After all, you will have to count the kidneys, and sharpen the tool, and apply fertilizer according to the scheme, and build drainage grooves, and prepare the covering material. But there is nothing sweeter than fruits grown by your own hands. And therefore - get down to business!

The choice of planting material

Grape seedlings or cuttings should be purchased only from specialized stores, where a variety is guaranteed without traces of cross-pollination. When buying a sprout in private farmsteads or from neighbors in the country, it is impossible to be sure of such a guarantee.

When choosing roots, special attention is paid to the roots themselves, or the root system of the seedlings, and the flower-fruit buds of the plant. As for the roots, they should be strong and straight - without signs of damage, curvature, unnecessary growths and peeling of the bark on the root collar. There should be no frost-bitten, rotten or dried out areas on the root material. After all, the roots are the heart of the plant, and if their condition is deplorable, then the seedling will be frail, if at all.

If the roots are the heart, then the buds of the seedling are its arms and legs. There is no them - there is no movement, no transformation, no flowering, no fruiting! There is only an empty stick, not capable of producing offspring. Therefore, the presence of 3-4 healthy buds on cuttings or seedlings are required! At least one 9–11 cm long bud is also required.

The total length of the seedling with roots should be at least 40–45 cm in length. The stalk can be shorter - 30–35 cm.

High-quality planting material of grapes, has strong roots and one bud sprout

Place for the vine and preparatory work in the fall

A place for a future vineyard is chosen in the fall, if the rooting of seedlings is planned for next spring.

Since grapes are a sunny culture, then the place needs to be chosen as open as possible, but protected from the winds from the north side by a fence or wall of the house. Both the taste and color of future fruits depend on the correct site. Indeed, in the sun, the prevailing pink color of the Transfiguration will also be complemented by a warm golden hue of the skin. In the shade, the color will be rather saturated pink-raspberry, but without a golden tint, and the berries will acquire an excessive sourness.

Since the fall, the earth is dug up onto one and a half bayonets of a shovel, fertilized with humus, peat or humus, and in this state it remains to lie down until spring. During the winter months, the soil will rest, the soil will sag, the internal voids formed from the digging will disappear. The area for digging is determined based on the required space per seedling of 90–100 cm. It is recommended to cover the dug perimeter with a heat-protective film, but you can skip this step in the fall and transfer it to the spring.

Seedling preparation and auxiliary work in the spring

We start spring again with digging. It is produced with the onset of stable heat and the end of the threat of recurrent frosts on the soil. But a full-fledged digging process at this time will not be required, provided that the autumn plowing was of high quality and sufficiently deep. From gardening tools, only a pitchfork or a rake is required for easy stirring and enriching the previously dug earth with oxygen. Further, holes are formed to a depth of 40–50 cm, which are fertilized for the second time with humate and superphosphate granules. It is categorically impossible to introduce any fresh manure or non-rotting substrate, so as not to burn the roots or bring in any earthen larvae.

While soil work is underway, it is necessary to give time to the seedlings for adaptation and acclimatization. Without them, the implantation of roots into the ground under new growing conditions will be painful and long. Therefore, the little ones need help.

Healthy rooted grape cuttings ready for outdoor planting

The procedure begins, as with the purchase of material, with an examination of the seedlings for their vitality and health. If, during the time elapsed from the moment of acquisition to the moment of planting in the ground, the plant has given new tiny sprouts from the buds, then they should be removed, leaving only the largest viable sprout. And at the same time remove the dried leaves or twigs of last year, if any. At the main sprout, the top is removed with garden shears, leaving only a part of the stem with five eyes. The roots also rejuvenate and heal by cutting off the tips so that the total length of the roots does not go beyond the 15-17 cm mark. Further, the roots are placed in a container with settled water at room temperature with the addition of stimulant substances, such as Kornevin or Humate. In such an adaptive environment, the root system of young plants can stay for up to 24 hours, settling and saturating with juices in anticipation of its hour of planting in open ground.

Landing in open ground

There are a couple of things to do before the planting process is complete. The root of the seedling, prepared according to all the rules, is lowered into the hole, straightened and dripped with an earth substrate. If a seedling with a shoot served as a planting material, then it is he who will give rise to the entire vine. If a rooted stalk has gone into the ground, then only 2-3 buds should remain above the ground. The future harvest will be formed just from them. If you used a grafted shoot, then be sure to make sure that the grafting site protrudes 3-4 centimeters above the ground.

Abundant watering of the seedling with water when planting is the key to its successful growth

Watering a young plant is carried out with plain water abundantly and without any additives. After watering, the seedling is covered with a second layer of earth, and the place around it is compacted with the palms of the hands. Both watering and tamping are done in order to remove air pockets from the subsoil space, which often serve as houses for larvae and interfere with the proper development of the plant.

Circle mulch is also a very desirable element. After all, it, whether it be finely chopped bark, shavings or sawdust, will prevent moisture from escaping from the roots, protect the trunk and roots from slugs, those who still like to chew young stems, and serve as a beautiful natural decor in the vineyard.

Summer and autumn grape care

The Transfiguration grape, although it is positioned as a culture that requires regular care, is actually absolutely not a capricious variety. The correct initial planting of a seedling is like the first brick in the business. If I laid it down correctly, it means that you will not have to correct, supplement, or redo something later. Therefore, immediately, from the moment of planting, everything must be done so that later it will not be excruciatingly painful for the vine.

Soil moisture requirements

The key to success in growing grapes of any variety is maintaining moisture in the soil. A small bush will need systematic watering until flowering and the formation of an ovary. Dry land in the near-trunk circle, like a swamp overgrown with mud, is detrimental to culture. Only moderate watering will give all the necessary juices to the plant.

If the location of groundwater on the site is such that the roots are constantly getting wet, it is necessary to build a drainage system. To do this, dig a shallow groove near the trunk, which would provide a drain of excess moisture away from the roots.

If there is little moisture in the near-trunk circle, and the seedling barely survives, then mulch from humus, peat, sawdust will help out. It covers the space at the stem so that the thickness of the protective layer is 3–3.5 cm. Mulching is especially important in the spring, when the soil has not yet warmed up enough. In summer, you should not do a warm litter, so as not to provoke overheating of the roots.

Photo gallery: stages of flowering, fruiting and pruning

The role of fertilizers

Fertilization is a key moment in viticulture. In a land devoid of essential trace elements, there will be no normal plant development, no double harvest. The bush should receive:

  • nitrogen, which is responsible for the growth of green mass;
  • phosphorus, which contributes to the growth of the ovary and the correct development of the fruit;
  • potassium, which has a positive effect on the wood of the vine;
  • iron, copper and zinc, which increase disease resistance;
  • calcium, which slows down the aging and decay processes of plants;
  • boron and sulfur, which are responsible for the rational metabolism and for the build-up of chlorophyll in plant cells;
  • magnesium and silicon, which prevent premature aging and leaf fall.

The whole complex of micro and macro elements must be well balanced - only then will it work as a single team to achieve the overall goal. The following fertilizer table will help you navigate them correctly. The proportions are indicated in grams per bush.

Photo gallery: fertilizers for grapes

Pests of grapes

Wasps are called one of the main pests. They flock to the bunches of honey, arrange nests there, which spoil both the quality of the fruits and their presentation. Methods for dealing with wasps are divided into mechanical, botanical and chemical. Mechanical include:

  • traps from plastic bottles with bait inside;
  • mesh bags worn on the bunches.

The trap consists of two halves of a plastic bottle. Sweet water is poured into one of them, which attracts wasps

Both methods are quite time consuming, because one wasp brings several hundred of its companions with it. Catching everyone is unrealistic. Putting on bags for 300-500 bunches is even more difficult. Spicy plants with a strong odor, such as basil, mint, lemon balm, garden geranium, wormwood, coriander, tarragon, will help to partially solve the problem. They will scare away not only wasps, but also other harmful insects, lovers of grape nectar.

The burning and pungent aromas of herbs, unfortunately, will not work on aphids, spider mites, thrips, leafworms, scale insects and other pests. If signs of their presence appear, namely: leaves in a hole, weak shoots, leaf twisting, brown spots - then you must immediately switch to insecticidal preparations.In the gardener's first-aid kit, for such a case, there should always be Inta-vir, Fitoverm, Calypso, Aktofit, Omayt. They all have their own specialization. For example, Omite is marketed as an acaricidal or anti-mite drug. Calypso is effective against gnawing insects: leafworms and flower beetles.

When leafworms appear, you should immediately start treatment with insecticidal preparations.

As for wasps and chemical methods of dealing with them, it is possible to use a smoke bomb or vinegar solution, which lubricates the bunches. However, after harvesting fruits treated with such methods, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse them until all chemical residues are removed.

Diseases and their prevention

A vine without timely care is very susceptible to disease attacks. They are easier to prevent than to cure. The fertilization scheme given in the previous chapter will not only ensure proper growth, flowering and ripening of fruits, but also increase plant resistance to a number of diseases. The most characteristic ones are as follows:

  • Mildew or downy mildew. The ailment begins with spots on the foliage, then a spider's plaque joins, the fall of buds and berries. The cause of the disease is the increased humidity of the soil and air. For prophylaxis before flowering, medicinal preparations are used: Hom, Aksikhom, Polykhom.
  • Oidium or powdery mildew. Powdery is characterized by a white bloom on the leaves and fruits, as well as an unpleasant outgoing odor. The disease develops either due to a lack of moisture, or due to a sharp change in moisture regimes. Colloidal sulfur preparations will help solve the problem.
  • Bacterial cancer. The grape trunk is susceptible to the disease, on which an air bubble forms under the bark. As it grows in size, it tears apart the bark, creating cavities in the trunk that are vulnerable to parasites. Such an anomaly is usually a consequence of severe frosts and vines wintering without shelter. Having found cancer, the growths should be carefully cut off, and the cut site should be treated with Bordeaux liquid or a solution of ferrous sulfate.
  • Spotted necrosis. This is a fungal disease, manifested in the death of tissue on the bark. Autumn prevention measures will help prevent necrosis, such as deep digging of the earth around the trunk, cleaning fallen leaves, thinning the pruning of the bush, processing seedlings before planting with a solution of 4% ferrous sulfate.

Photo Gallery: Grape Disease Transformation

It is not possible to talk about all fungal and viral diseases in one article. You just need to remember that they are possible either from improper care, or from the inconsistency of the variety with the climatic conditions of the growing region.

Pruning and sheltering for the winter

Pruning plays an important role in crop formation and fruit size. In addition, a thickened vine will contribute to the development of various diseases. Therefore, grapes cannot exist without pruning. It is carried out in the spring before the buds swell or in the fall. It is believed that 7-8 eyes on one branch are enough for Transfiguration grapes. The rest, if there are more of them, are removed with a pruner. The recommended number of shoots per vine is indicated as 26-28.

Without pruning and forming a fruiting vine, you cannot count on the grape harvest

Blooming clusters are also thinned out. Only one is left on one sprout. Otherwise, the plant will give birth to many small berry brushes, the taste of which will differ significantly from the properties declared by the breeders.

Shelter for the winter is carried out after all the autumn dressings. The vine is removed from the support, pruned by 75% until two true shoots are preserved, and bent to the ground with garden staples. The trunk circle is mulched with humus and covered with hay or burlap. With such a blanket, the grapes will be cozy and warm - they will rest without any problems until the next growing season.

Many politicians of our time have called and are calling to invest in wine and vineyards, because this is a win-win business. The transformation will definitely delight everyone who decides to experiment on its cultivation. The bunch will not work, which in principle is impossible, so the aroma of the grape garden will turn out - one of the brightest pleasures of life.

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Grape variety "Zilga": description, photo, selection, planting and care features

Large berries of an early ripe grape variety "Zilga" are popular with the Baltic, Belarusian, Norwegian, Swedish and Canadian winegrowers. The hybrid has earned universal recognition due to its versatility, high frost resistance and ease of cultivation. The advantages, disadvantages and features of caring for the variety will be discussed further.

Breeding history

The authorship of the variety, which has won the love of winemakers all over the world for half a century of its existence, belongs to the Latvian breeder Paul Sukantieks.

On his account there are about a hundred popular varieties of grapevine. Therefore, the novelty immediately aroused interest.

It is based on the maternal pollen of the Russian varieties known at that time "Darkie", "Jubilee Novgorod" and the Latvian "Dvietessa".

The scientist set himself the goal of solving the problem of winegrowers from regions where winters are notable for their harshness.

As a result, the vine "Zilgi" feels comfortable even in a 30-degree frost and without shelter withstands snowless cold days.

The variety takes root even in areas where other varieties of grapes do not hibernate under safe cover. In addition, it is distinguished by good preservation of ripe bunches during their long stay on the bush.

Description

In order to get a general idea of ​​the variety, a brief description of the Zilga grapes can be conveyed in a few words: large-fruited, early maturing, winter-hardy a hybrid of universal use. But for the gardener, this information, of course, will not be enough. Therefore, we propose to study in more detail the features of the species.

The plant develops on its own or grafted roots and is distinguished by rather tall shoots, which ripen by 85% at one year of age. Scions usually reach medium height, and self-rooted specimens are much higher.

The hybrid bushes are characterized by solid, three-lobed foliage of large size and dense structure with small dissections. Each leaf on the back has a slight smoky bloom.

The variety is distinguished by high rates of self-pollination.

Bunches

You can enjoy the sweet fruits of this variety already in mid-July - early August. The grapes are densely collected in large cylindrical clusters, each of which weighs about half a kilogram. Additional wings are often formed on them. Lobular and conical clusters also occur, which is quite normal for the variety.

Important! If the vineyard area is limited in a close courtyard, experienced growers advise to restrain the growth of shoots, suppressing them at the level of 8 eyes.

The ripeness of the variety is evidenced by a dark blue tint and a weak bloom of oval berries.... They are remembered for their pleasant taste with light nutmeg notes and a delicate aroma. According to tasting qualities "Zilga" is estimated at 7 points out of a possible 10. The fruits contain about 20% sugar, and their acidity does not exceed 5 g / l.

Learn more about such hybrid grape varieties as, "Nizina", "Valek", "Victor", grapes of Burdaka A.V., "Lily of the valley", "In memory of Negrul", "Libya", "Talisman", "Valentina", " Romeo, Victoria, Sofia, Galakhid, Furor, Transfiguration, Baikonur, Extra.

A characteristic feature of the variety is a somewhat jelly pulp, thick skin and 2-3 grains inside. Housewives use berries for raw consumption, making homemade wines, juices and compotes.

Some in the reviews say that if ripe fruits are not removed from the vine for a very long time, they will gradually begin to wither in the sun and may even reach the state of raisins.

Variety characteristics

Thanks to the successful combination of maternal qualities, the creator of the hybrid managed to realize all the dreams of gardeners in regions with a harsh climate.

The variety allows, with elementary care, to collect high yields of high-quality fruits and not to worry that the plant will not overwinter or will be destroyed by pests and pathogenic fungi, microorganisms.

Let us consider in more detail in the description of the Zilga grape variety its main features.

Yield

On average, no more than 3 bunches are formed on one Zilga sprout. And each contains about fifty berries. Under favorable conditions of plant cultivation, up to 12 kg of harvest can be harvested from the bush.

Ripening period

Zilga is classified as an early variety. Botanists determine the optimal ripeness of fruits in 120 days, and consumers say that in favorable weather conditions, ripe berries appear in 100 days. In particular, a similar picture is observed in the southern regions, where the climate is milder.

Winter hardiness

The genetic tolerance of the variety to cold weather was the main task when breeding "Zilga". And the result obtained can rightfully be considered an achievement of Latvian breeders. After all, a vine without shelter can overwinter even at 32 degrees below zero.

Disease and pest resistance

Zilga is not sensitive to attacks of harmful insects and pathogenic microbes.

But in conditions of a damp rainy summer, when a favorable environment is created for the development of various fungi, it can be affected by gray rot, mildew, and powdery mildew typical of all grape varieties.

Therefore, experts recommend twice a season to carry out preventive spraying with any fungicide (Fundazol, Maxim) or a one-percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Important! When planting grapes as fertilizer, in no case use fresh pig manure or overripe from any other livestock. As a rule, it contains many larvae of harmful beetles, which, to the extent of their growth, will begin to feed on grape wood.

Among the insects that most annoy vineyard owners are wasps. As soon as the fruits begin to ripen, they immediately flock from everywhere for a sweet treat. Subsequently, the bunches lose their presentable appearance. And the berries will spoil soon.

To save the crop from striped sweet tooth, experienced owners advise first of all to remove all hornets' nests in the courtyard. It is better to do this at night when the insects are sleeping. It is better to knock them into a bucket of boiling water or into a bag with cotton wool soaked with insecticide (Aktara, Bi-58 Novy, Aktellik).

If for such manipulations you do not have enough courage or for some other reason it is not possible to carry out your plan, protect the grape bunches in special mesh bags.

Since the fight against wasps often does not bring the desired result, as a safety net, place homemade traps from plastic bottles near the vine.

We also advise you to familiarize yourself with how to deal with the scabbard and itch on grapes.

Planting and selection of seedlings

Experts call spring the optimal time for rooting grapevine.when the weather is stable and warm and the ground warms up enough. But preparation for planting should be done in the fall.

Important! In order for the hybrid to develop well, leave up to 30 eyes on the bush.

Already in the second decade of September - early October, you need to decide on the planting site of the future bush and prepare the soil for it. Ideally for "Zilga" a place protected from drafts is suitable, where northern winds do not dominate, water does not collect during thaws and precipitation.

After digging up the selected area, make a hole half a meter deep and wide. Cover its bottom with a layer of drainage, then cover it up to half with fertile nutrient soil.

Usually gardeners use compost, chicken manure or horse manure and the top layer of soil for these purposes. All components are mixed in equal parts. Granular superphosphate is added.

Agrochemists advise, as a matter of priority, to combine all fertilizers and only then pour out the soil. The pit is filled to the top, covered with dark plastic wrap and left until spring.

It is advisable to purchase a seedling during the period when you plan to plant. It is better to do this in specialized nurseries and garden centers.

Remember that the quality of the planting material determines the viability and prospects of the bush for the next five years, therefore, be very careful when choosing. Take a good look at the root system and stems.

They must have a uniform surface, without sagging spots, cracks and any other mechanical damage.

The roots of a quality seedling should be smooth and fresh. Make sure that there are no putrefactive, dry or frost-bitten areas on them. Experienced gardeners advise to lightly scratch the tip of the root scion. Fresh wood that appeared at the site of the wound speaks of the freshness of the seedling.

From the offered assortment of grape seedlings, give preference to the strongest and most well-developed ones. If you want to buy a scion, choose specimens with a half-meter rhizome and vine. On self-root seedlings, there must be at least one ten-centimeter shoot.

Just before rooting it is necessary to put the seedling in a container with water, any growth promoter can be added if desired. After that, the roots must be treated with a clay mash, which will protect them from drying out.

When planting in a pit prepared in the fall, the necessary layer of soil is removed so that the roots of the plant are comfortable. Then the recess is watered until the soil no longer absorbs moisture.

After that, you can place a seedling in the hole, straighten its roots and cover it with a substrate. Do not forget to tamp it thoroughly so that the voids formed in the root system are filled. Make sure that 2 eyes rise above ground level.

If we are talking about a grafted bush, the grafting site should be 3 centimeters above the soil.

Important! When planting large vineyards, keep the distance between plants within 1.5-2 meters.

After planting, the hybrid needs to be watered again and mulched with humus or peat around the trunk circles. Mulch will prevent moisture evaporation and weeds.

Care features

"Zilga" has established itself as a very undemanding and grateful variety of grapes. For full development and abundant fruiting, the variety needs moderate moisture, timely feeding and competent pruning. Let's figure it out in order.

Watering

The hybrid will respond well to moderately damp soil, but will ache and wither in swampy areas. Therefore, it is important to water the plant taking into account the location of the groundwater.

Young bushes require intensive and systematic moisture after planting, as well as during the beginning of the growing season until budding itself.

After flowering, when the ovary begins to form on the vine, it is recommended to stop watering and resume only if necessary during prolonged sultry weather. Experts advise to make a shallow ditch along the near-trunk circle to drain excess water.

Top dressing

In order for the hybrid to bear fruit generously every year, the gardener must make an effort. They consist in feeding and alkalinizing the acidic earth. But it is extremely undesirable to be limited to only one organic matter or mineral substances. Indeed, at each stage of development, the bush requires certain components.

Illiterate feeding aggravates the development of the vine, so it is important to figure out what and when to bring under the bush.For example, in spring, when the active biomass build-up begins, the plant needs nitrogen.

Therefore, experts advise at this stage of development to use urea, ammonium nitrate or a solution from the infusion of chicken manure. During the flowering period, the culture needs phosphorus substances. Therefore, superphosphates are recommended for fertilization.

And to strengthen the vines and cuttings of grape clusters, you need potassium. It is better to apply it in the fall, like copper, which affects the frost-resistant qualities of the plant. During the laying of the future harvest, zinc will not interfere, which affects the number of berries.

But for their sweetness during the formation of the ovary, you will need to feed the bush with a solution of boric acid.

Important! Grapes need 3-4 additional fertilizing: in early spring, 2 weeks before flowering, before the ripeness of the fruits and after they are removed from the vine.

Pruning

This procedure should be carried out in early spring or late autumn. And you need to start on two-year-old bushes. At "Zilge" fan-cutting is practiced, which provides 2-3 of the strongest shoots and the removal of their upper parts at the level of 8 eyes.

Like other early-maturing grape varieties, this hybrid gives a lot of lashes... They must be removed, otherwise the vine will not have time to ripen, and in winter it can destroy the bush.

Many novice growers complain that most of the plant must be removed. Some even think that after the recommendations for pruning it will have to be restored.

In fact, experts say that intensive pruning will not harm the grapes, but, on the contrary, will benefit them. Consider the weight of future bunches and do not overload the bush.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

In reviews of the Zilga variety, gardeners often mention the following advantages:

  • endurance to adverse climatic conditions
  • good rooting of seedlings and quick adaptation to a new place
  • unpretentious care
  • possibility of cultivation in a non-covering way
  • high yields
  • high commercial and taste qualities of fruits
  • abundance of harvest
  • versatility in the use of fruits.

Among the disadvantages, consumers call the presence of a dense peel and grains inside the pulp on the berries. But these insignificant nuances fully compensate for the variety's numerous advantages.

"Zilga" stands out not only for its frost-resistant characteristics, but also with abundant fruitfulness of sprouts. If you do not remove competing, weak and unnecessary branches, the plant will simply ruin itself under the weight of the bunches.


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