Information About Echeveria

Information About Echeveria

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Echeveria Pallida Plant Info: Growing Argentine Echeveria Succulents

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

If you enjoy growing succulents, then Echeveria pallida may be just the plant for you. This attractive little plant isn’t finicky so long as you provide suitable growing conditions. Click this article for more information on growing Argentine echeveria plants.

Perle Von Nurnberg Info: What Is A Perle Von Nurnberg Plant

By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Echeveria are some of the easiest succulents to grow, and the Perle von Nurnberg plant is one of the prettiest examples of the group. Click here for some comprehensive Perle von Nurnberg information.

Topsy Turvy Echeveria Care: How To Grow A Topsy Turvy Plant

By Mary Ellen Ellis

Succulents are varied and come in a lot of different shapes and colors. A Topsy Turvy plant is a stunning type of echeveria, one large group of succulents, that is easy to grow and adds visual interest to desert beds and indoor containers. Learn more in this article.

Arctic Ice Succulent: What Is An Arctic Ice Echeveria Plant

By Amy Grant

Succulents are enjoying immense popularity as party favors, particularly as wedding take away gifts. If you have been to a wedding lately, you may have come away with an Echeveria ‘Arctic Ice’ succulent, but how do you care for it? This article will help.

Doris Taylor Succulent Info: Tips On Growing A Woolly Rose Plant

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

Echeveria "Doris Taylor," also called the woolly rose plant, is a favorite of many collectors. If you’re not familiar with this plant, you may ask what is a woolly rose succulent? Click this article to learn more about this interesting succulent plant.

Irish Mint Echeveria Info: How To Grow An Irish Mint Succulent

By Liz Baessler

Echeveria is a genus of stonecrop plants with a huge variety of species and cultivars, many of which are very popular in succulent gardens and collections. One beautiful and easy-care variety is Echeveria ‘Irish Mint.’ Click here for more info on this echeveria plant.

Caring For Ramillette Echeverias – Information About Ramillette Succulents

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

The Ramillette echeveria plant is also called Mexican hens and chicks, but don’t be misled. These plants are only hardy in USDA zones 9-11 for year-round outdoor planting and growing. Click here to learn more about caring for a Ramillette echeveria plant.

Echeveria ‘Lola’ Info: Learn How To Care For A Lola Echeveria

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

Another of the most commonly owned succulents, the popular Echeveria ‘Lola’ plant is a beautiful, rosette that may be surrounded by pups. Offsets produce readily on this grayish-blue leafed favorite. Growing Lola echeveria is simple too, and this article will help.

Care Of Peacock Echeveria – Tips For Growing Peacock Echeveria Plants

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

Somewhat unusual and possibly hard to find, the Peacock echeveria is a fast-growing succulent plant with rosettes up to six inches (15 cm.) across. It is unusual for a succulent to report fast growth. Learn more about growing a Peacock echeveria succulent here.

Care Of Allegra Echeveria – How To Grow An Echeveria ‘Allegra’ Plant

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

Allegra succulents, with bluish-green leaves and showy flowers, are some of the most sought-after echeverias. Learning about Echeveria ‘Allegra’ before growing it can help keep your plant happy and healthy. This article will help with that.

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ – Tips For Growing Black Prince Echeveria Plants

By Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ is a favorite succulent plant, especially of those who like the dark purple look of the leaves, which are so deep they appear black. Those looking to add something a little different will certainly enjoy this easy-care plant. Learn more in this article.

Chroma Succulent Care: Learn About Growing Chroma Echeveria Plants

By Amy Grant

Chroma echeveria plants are hybrid succulents. They are comprised of a small rosette, which makes them the perfect size for a take-away gift. Their diminutive size isn’t their only selling point; they also have lovely shiny, deep rose to maroon foliage. Learn more here.

Echeveria Parva Care – Growing Echeveria Parva Succulents

By Teo Spengler

Resilient and striking is the Echeveria succulent. This genus of easy-care succulents has attractive rosette-shaped foliage. If this sounds promising, click this article for more echeveria plant information, in particular growing Echeveria parva.

What Is A Minima Plant – Echeveria Minima Information And Care

By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

What is a minima plant? This miniature of the Echeveria genus is native to Mexico and has sweet rosettes and blush tinged leaves. Best of all, minima succulent care is so simple that even a novice gardener can succeed with ease. Learn more in this article.

Echeveria ‘Black Knight’ – Tips For Growing A Black Knight Succulent

By Mary H. Dyer, Credentialed Garden Writer

Black Knight echeveria is an attractive succulent plant with rosettes of fleshy, pointy, blackish-purple leaves. Interested in growing Black Knight plants in your garden? It’s relatively easy as long as you follow a few basic rules. This article can help with that.

Painted Lady Echeveria: Tips For Growing A Painted Lady Plant

By Tonya Barnett, (Author of FRESHCUTKY)

With its unique blue-green pastel color, it’s easy to see why the variety Echeveria derenbergii is a long-time favorite of succulent plant collectors and hobbyist gardeners. Click here to learn more about growing and caring for this “painted lady” plant.

Red Velvet Echeveria: Learn How To Grow Red Velvet Plants

By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

The Red Velvet succulent plant is not freeze tolerant but makes a beautiful interior plant for the office or home. Try growing a Red Velvet plant with other small succulents in a container display, providing varied texture and color with little maintenance. Learn more here.

Planting and care

Weather and Sun

Winter / Cold Temperatures

Garden Soil and Potting Mix


Symptoms of Water Problems


Pests and Diseases

Air Plants - Tillandsias

Weather and sun

Succulents tend to prefer a temperate climate. Generally they do best in areas with filtered sunlight and temperatures below 90 degrees. Most succulents can tolerate full sunlight, however some can get sunburn if they are in full sun during the afternoon when the temperatures are highest (Aeonium are especially susceptible). Full sun in combination with temperatures above 90 can damage most succulents. Morning and/or evening sun with afternoon full or partial shade (at least 50%) is ideal.

Newly planted succulents, especially those that have been growing in a greenhouse, will need to be shaded for a few days and gradually introduced to more sunlight. This is also the case when bringing succulents that have been grown indoors outside.

Read more about this topic on our blog: Sempervivum and Sunlight
Find even more information at Succulents and Sunshine: Succulents and Heat - Bringing Tender Succulents Outdoors for the Summer

Colorful succulents will maintain their color best with at least 6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight each day. Without enough sunlight they begin to revert to green and stretch out. Heat and extreme cold generally bring out the deepest color in succulents. Most Sempervivum have their richest color in spring when extra sunlight combines with cold nights. Some succulents, such as the Sempervivum heuffelii and many of the Soft Succulents, keep their color better when it gets hot.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Keeping Succulents Colorful

Photo: Left shows stretching on an Echeveria hybrid from insufficient light. Right shows sunburn on a Jade Plant from too much direct sun.

Winter and Cold Temperatures

Cold hardy succulents will do well year round outdoor. They can tolerate freezing temperatures for extended periods of time, though many varieties will go partially or fully dormant in late fall (e.g. hardy Sedum). Most tender (“Soft”) succulents will die if the temperature falls below freezing for more than a day or two, but many will survive below 32 for brief periods of time (6 hours or less in a night). You can move tender succulents indoors for the winter and bring them out again in the spring. Some succulents change very little during the winter months, while others change dramatically.

Read more about this topic at our blog: How Winter Cold Affects Your Succulents
Find even more information at Succulents and Sunshine: Winter Care of Tender Succulents

Garden Soil and Potting Mix

One of the most crucial parts of working with succulents is having a well-draining soil. Succulent roots will rot if they sit in water or wet soil for too long. If the soil you are working with doesn’t drain well, you can add a soil amendment such as pumice, perlite, or coarse sand. These will help loosen the soil and allow the water to drain more quickly, thus allowing the soil to dry faster. When planting succulents in the ground, creating mounds or planting on a hill will also help increase the drainage.

It is even more important to have well-draining soil for succulents grown in containers. In general, it’s best to use a pot with a drainage hole to allow water to flow out of the pot. Succulents will do best in a soil with a particle size of roughly ¼” or 6mm. Standard potting soil is too dense for succulents and doesn’t allow their roots to get the oxygen they need.

While most store bought succulent and cacti mixes (e.g. Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm, and Citrus, Black Gold Cactus Mix) will be fine for succulents, mixing your own will generally produce the best results. The best ratio for succulent soil is ⅓ organic material such as coconut coir or pine bark fines and ⅔ inorganic material such as crushed granite, coarse grain sand, perlite or pumice.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Well-Draining Succulent Soil

Using a top dressing, such as a pea gravel or decorative rock is recommended. It adds a professional touch to an arrangement and minimizes moss growth. A top dressing also keeps succulent leaves off of the soil which can help prevent rot.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Top Dressings

Your succulents will also benefit from regular fertilizer. Use a fertilizer with low nitrogen such as a 5-10-10. It’s best to dilute the fertilizer to half strength to prevent burning your succulents. Spring is generally the best time to fertilize as this is when most succulents begin actively growing.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Fertilizing Succulents


A common misconception is that succulents don’t need very much water to survive. They in fact need enough water to keep their leaves, stem and root full in order to withstand periods of drought.

The best way to water succulents and encourage healthy root growth is to completely soak the soil and allow it to dry out completely before watering again. Lightly spraying the soil will cause succulents to put off small thin roots which will easily wither and die. Soaking the soil allows them to absorb the water they need. Letting the soil dry out completely allows the succulent time to grow and put off strong healthy roots.

How frequently you water is greatly determined by your climate, soil and the type of succulents you are growing. When the weather gets hot your succulents will need more water than in the winter when it’s cold and they are dormant. Succulents with thick leaves will tolerate longer periods of drought, whereas succulents with thinner leaves will need to be watered a little more frequently.

Watering once a week is a good place to start if you’re unsure of how often to water. However, you’ll want to adjust based on temperature and the type of succulent you’re growing. Look for signs of watering problems to help determine if you need to increase or decrease your watering frequency. Making gradual changes to the watering frequency as you notice early signs of over or under watering will help ensure your succulents stay healthy.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: How to Water Succulents

Symptoms of Water Problems

Over watering is one of the most common ways to kill succulents. An early sign of over watering is your succulent’s leaves falling off with just a slight bump. As the damage from over watering continues, your succulent’s leaves will begin to yellow and look more transparent. The leaves will feel mushy and wet. At this point the best option is to let your succulent dry out for a few days and reduce your watering frequency in the future.

If your succulent starts to blacken around the stem or leaves, it is suffering from rot. You’ll want to cut off the succulent above the rot, allow the cutting to dry for a few days and then replant the cutting in soil.

When a succulent isn’t getting enough water you’ll notice the leaves start to look limp and soft. You may begin to notice wrinkling near the top of the plant in the new growth. The lower leaves of succulents will die eventually as part of their normal life cycle. If you notice that the leaves are drying up faster than usual, you’ll want to increase your watering frequency slightly.

It’s much easier to rescue a succulent that has been under watered so when in doubt, water less often. Then, if you notice signs of under watering, gradually increase how often you’re watering.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Rescuing Over and Under Watered Succulents

Photo: Left shows underwatering for a Portulacaria. Right shows overwatering for an Echeveria.


Succulents are tough plants and can grow in a variety of places. For long term growing, it’s generally best to place them in a container with a drainage hole and to use well-draining soil. While you can plant succulents in fun containers with no drainage such as old shoes, tea cups, votives, etc. they may not be the best long term solutions due to watering challenges. Terracotta or ceramic pots will dry out more quickly than plastic or other materials, so be sure to adjust watering accordingly. As succulents get too big for the container they are in, you can cut back the new growth and plant it elsewhere or move the whole plant to a larger container.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Choosing Pottery for Succulents

Browse our selection of pots for succulents here: Pots for Succulents

Most succulents also perform well in raised beds and rock gardens where they can be easily viewed. You'll want to check the hardiness rating on any succulents before you plant in the ground to make sure they will survive the winter in your zone. Also be sure to plant them in well draining soil.

Pests & diseases

Mealybugs are the most common pest for succulents, although they generally only affect succulents in containers. Aphids are another common pest, usually appearing in the summer. Mealybugs, aphids, and most other pests, can be treated by spraying the succulent with 70% Isopropyl alcohol or an insecticidal soap. Be sure to get in between the leaves and near the stem as bugs tend to hide in the crevices. It may take several applications to completely get rid of all the bugs.

Read more about this topic at Succulents and Sunshine: Treating Mealybug Infested Succulents

Air Plants - Tillandsias

Tillandsias are low maintenance plants that only require water. Most varieties do fine with weekly misting/showering, but larger plants need to be dunked in water for 15-20 minutes per week. These plants will thrive in dry or humid climates as long as they receive adequate moisture. Direct sunlight is not recommended, but often times will inspire color with in some varieties. It is important to drain the water out of the crevices. When using Tillandsia for terrariums or art projects they cannot be used with any potting soil or dirt (hence the name Air Plants). Air Plants can be used with sand, sea glass, rocks, pebbles & bark chip. Tillandsia will color up and also spike a bloom that will flower. They also produce pups that create a whole other plant.

Tips & Information about Echeveria - garden

We were recently asked a series of questions by a customer about growing Echeveria indoors during the winter. So, we thought we’d post the information shared to hopefully help others. We were specifically discussing Echeveria, but it applies to all tender succulents.

Echeveria and other non-hardy succulents look amazing in patio planters. Echeveria are originally from Mexico and Central America. They aren’t used to the cold and will die in freezing temperatures. Just because you live where winter is a real winter doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy these colorful plants.

You can keep them healthy during the cold months by moving them indoors. Then, once the threat of frost has past, gradually move them back outside in the spring. Other people who want to enjoy these colorful plants, but don’t want houseplants, treat Echeveria like annuals and just plant anew each spring.

Like they’re used to in their native growing grounds, Echeveria like full sun. However, try to avoid these two things: drastic sunlight changes and summer afternoon full sun.

Dramatic changes in lighting can stress plants out. If you are moving your plants outside in the spring, do it gradually. A couple hours in morning sun, then a few more, until they are in full sun.

Intense afternoon sun can, in some regions be too strong and the leaves will sunburn. Burned leaves will not heal and since Echeveria keep their leaves for a long time, it will look burned for a long time. If the damage is severe you will be best off to cut the head off the plant and let it re-grow from the stalk.

During the winter, when your plants are inside, put them near the brightest window in your house. Your plants will stretch if they don’t have enough sunlight. Ideally you would put your plants near a south-facing window. If that isn’t an option, though, put them near a window that gets the most light.

Echeveria, indoors or outside, don’t like to be kept too wet, but they also don’t like to be kept too dry. We typically find that succulents like more water than most people think. In a house the dry home temperatures dry things our even faster. You don’t want your soil to be bone dry or it will wither the plant’s roots.

When you water Echeveria, water the soil and not the rosette. Pour on the water until it drains out the bottom. Repeat this a couple times. Then don’t water again until the soil has dried out. You don’t want your plant to remain soaking wet all the time. To help prevent this, don’t let the pot sit in a saucer full of water. The time between watering depends on the temperatures and conditions of the plant.

The most common problems seen on Echeveria are due to poor watering habits. Over and under watering can both produce similar symptoms. Wilting, shriveling, dropping leaves. You know your own watering habits best. Keep an eye on your plants and make adjustments if needed.

Like all succulents, Echeveria need soil that drains quickly. This helps prevent moisture from rotting the roots. Many growers will create their own special mixture of soil and perlite. However, good quality potting soil, or a cactus mix will work fine. As a rule of thumb, when you squeeze a handful of moist soil together, it should crumble apart again when released.

You will often read “sandy” in the soil requirements for succulents. This simply means that the soil needs to drain well. If you do add actual sand to your soil, make sure that it is coarse grained. Fine sand will clog the air pockets in the soil.

If you keep your plants alive for several years, you will want to re-pot them. Getting a fresh change of soil every couple years will keep them healthy and growing well.

Fertilizer is not a continual requirement for Echeveria. Succulents grow natively in soil without a lot of nutrients. So, they are especially susceptible to fertilizer burn. However, they can benefit from the occasional extra boost. Use a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of spring, or a liquid fertilizer diluted 2-4 times more than normal and used less often than recommended. Use a low nitrogen mix or a cactus fertilizer. Remember that it is a lot easier to over-fertilize succulents than to under-fertilize.

When you pot up you Echeveria, you have a wide range of containers to choose from. Generally the smallest size possible, or something that is just bigger than the root ball is the right choice. People sometimes worry about overpotting. This is when you use a large container for a small plant. The potential problem is that greater soil volume can hold more moisture and lead to the risk of rot. However, the soil you use with succulents should have excellent drainage anyway and larger pots shouldn’t pose any problem. So, find the container that you think looks great, small or large, and let your Echeveria grow.

Here you'll find expert advice to help you grow echeverias perfectly, with a gallery of 150+ beautiful, notable species and cultivars. Learn about the plants' native habitat, optimal care, light and water requirements, flowering, soil, fertilizer, pests, and propagation.


Echeverias are native to remote, mountainous terrain between 1,000 and 4,000 feet elevation. They range from Mexico to Argentina and grow in rock faces and ledges on near-vertical cliffs. Many of the 150 recognized species have been crossed to make new cultivars, of which there are well over a thousand. Most echeverias that are cabbage-like, ruffled, crinkly or bumpy are hybrids (names shown in single quotes).

Seasonal Care

Echeverias look good in spring due to fresh new growth, but autumn is when they attain their best color. In summer the leaves can be weak and brittle. In winter, plants go dormant and dry lower leaves hug the stem to protect it from cold. Wait until spring to remove dead leaves and tidy the plant.

Air circulation

Echeverias do best in dry air and dislike high humidity. Good air circulation keeps pests from settling in.


Ideal daytime temps are in the 70s F nighttime, 40-60 F. They can’t handle soil temps above 100 F or below 32 F. “They like to cool off at night,” says expert Dick Wright, adding that similar day and night temps are one reason echeverias don’t do well in Florida and Hawaii (that, and high humidity). In his greenhouses on cold winter nights, Dick uses heat mats to warm the soil. “Warm roots keep plants from freezing,” he says.

Light-deprived (etiolated) echeveria

Protect echeverias from intense summer sun, hail, and excessive rain and humidity. Most handle some frost, but none do well in desert heat. Because echeverias grow in the direction of greatest light, they may become unbalanced, so rotate the pot 180 degrees every so often for even exposure.

Will Echeverias grow indoors?

Unless you have a greenhouse, it's best to grow echeverias outdoors where they'll get balanced sun and good air circulation. In low light, echeverias flatten to expose more leaf surface to available sun. Stems stretch and new growth is pale. Reintroduce such etiolated plants to greater sun gradually, lest they burn.

Light Requirements

To bloom, echeverias need both intensity and duration of light—two separate things, Dick notes. "In summer the light is intense, so plants need only two hours of full, south-facing sun a day.” In his greenhouses during long winter nights, he increases the duration of light with 7-watt bulbs.

Echeveria Flowers

Echeveria blooms make lovely, long-lasting bouquets. The main flowering time is spring, but some species bloom at other times of the year. Nurseries and collectors may remove flower stalks because they make the plants lean toward light and drain their vitality.

Watering Echeverias

As with most succulents, drench soil and then let it dry between waterings. When echeverias are actively growing, keep soil moist. When they’re dormant, keep it on the dry side (in winter, water sparingly every two weeks).

These cliff-dwellers need superb drainage lest roots and stems rot, and they like rich soil. Repot every year or two (less often when plants are mature).

Dick Wright’s soil formula:
6 parts pumice or perlite
2 parts compost
2 parts washed concrete (builders') sand

OR simply use equal parts bagged cactus mix and standard potting mix.


If you use bagged soil, don’t fertilize the first year. Feed when the plants are actively growing, but not in autumn in order to heighten color. “Don’t fertilize when they’re really pretty,” Dick advises, and “don’t use anything that’s more than 5% nitrogen, or the plants will grow awkward. Use 5-2-2 or 10-5-5 half-strength. Quit in November and don’t feed again until February."


Echeverias are prone to mealy bugs in leaf axils and aphids on flower buds. Remove dry leaves and cut off bloom stalks, and/or spray with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Crackling and scabby areas on leaves indicate mycoplasma bacteria. “It’s not worth trying to treat it,” Dick says. "It's best to simply discard the plants."

Propagating Echeverias

Echeverias attain maturity (maximum diameter) at two to three years of age. Rosettes typically end up atop stems pocked where leaves were attached. These growth nodes are capable of producing roots and new little plants. Even large rosettes can be severed from their stems (beheaded) and rooted as cuttings.

>> Propagating succulents is easier than you may think! See my video series on succulent propagation for simple tips and techniques.

Beheading Older Plants

The longer, thicker, and older an echeveria's trunk, the smaller the rosette at the tip will be. Behead an echeveria when the rosette is still large in proportion to the stem. Once it's thick and woody, it's not as likely as a green stem to produce roots or offsets.


Gift basket of echeverias

Echeveria gift basket video

Plant an Echeveria Garden in Pots (5:22) My own potted echeveria garden.

On this site


If you're in the San Diego area, find an outstanding selection of echeverias at Oasis Nursery in Escondido.

Or order online from Mountain Crest Gardens. The family-owned nursery sells quality succulents for pots and garden beds at great prices. Echeverias are available as solo specimens ("a la carte"), bare-root, in assortments, and as cuttings.

Cuttings from Mountain Crest Gardens

Look for well-grown, collectible echeverias at shows and sales of the Cactus & Succulent Society of America.

Wright Nursery, located in a remote area north of San Diego near Camp Pendleton is by appointment only. The nursery ships worldwide, with a few exceptions (notably Spain, Australia and Paraguay).

Dick wants to thank everyone who has contacted him as a result of this post and my YouTube series. He’s been swamped with inquiries, so please be patient. “It’s wonderful, but I can’t keep up with them all." Also, providing a list of plants is difficult, because “I don’t know what we’ll have from week to week.” Dick turned 90 in September. He's says he's doing great, "and so are the plants."

Watch the video: Succulent Echeveria Care