Repair and decoration of entrance doors and doorways

 Repair and decoration of entrance doors and doorways

Metal and wooden doors differ in purpose, service life, repair features. Finishing options are also due to many factors - a product that faces the street differs from that that exits the staircase. The doorway is no less important: together with functionality, it must match the design of the door.

How to understand in time that the door needs repair

The main reason for the wear and tear of the front door is active operation. Other factors that are classified as force majeure also affect: hacking, fire, exposure to moisture.

The first signs that the door needs attention:

  • door hinges creak;
  • seizes the lock;
  • there is a skew (the door does not close completely or force is required);
  • there are traces of corrosion;
  • the door covering is damaged by mechanical or other means;
  • fittings cease to fit snugly (door handle, peephole);
  • there are traces of a break-in attempt or other damage.

The later the repair is done, the more expensive it is.

The interior door helps to retire in the room

There are types of work common for all types of doors:

  • recovery after burglary and other damage;
  • increasing the level of noise insulation;
  • insulation.
Popular means for lubricating door hinges: WD 40 - not only improves the sliding of parts, but also prevents corrosion, lithol is a waterproof and frost-resistant grease, suitable for outdoor structures, solid oil and cyatim are universal means.

There can be many reasons for door malfunction. If there are problems with the entrance structure, then the sediment of the house can become the cause of the skew. Repair is being carried out and to update the appearance of the door, the owner often wants to insulate it and increase the level of sound insulation.

If the new door leaf does not close well or the door handle is difficult to press, then this may not be a breakdown, but the result of the fact that the parts have not yet been completely worn down. There is no need to repair such a door; it only takes a little time to restore functionality.

An interior door can change the interior of a room

Preparing the door for repair

During preparation you need:

  1. Determine what specifically requires intervention: the door itself or the door frame.
  2. If the hinges do not work correctly and lubrication does not help, find out if they are welded to the door frame or bolted. In the first case, you need to contact professional repairmen for replacement.
  3. Determine the type of lock if the problem is with its functionality. It is easy to change the larva (core) of a cylindrical model on your own, and for more complex systems, for example, a safe-type lock, it is better to involve specialists.
  4. Prepare the required set of tools.

To carry out repairs, the door must be dismantled:

  1. Remove it from the hinges. To do this, you can use a crowbar with which the canvas needs to be lifted.

    To remove the door from its hinges, it is enough to lift it with the help of available means.

  2. Place the door horizontally. But some of the work, for example, changing locks or handles, can be done in an upright position.

    It is more convenient to repair the door if it is located horizontally.

  3. Remove the fittings (lock, peephole, handles, hinges). When dismantling, you must be careful and remember the sequence of actions.

    The door leaf must be freed from handles, hinges, lock, peephole

  4. Clean the door leaf from dust and dirt. First wash with a cleaning agent and then degrease with a solvent or similar.

    Use a chemical solvent and spray to degrease the surface.

The choice of tools depends on the type of tasks, but the basic list consists of the following items:

  • screwdrivers, hammer, chisels, nails, screws;
  • roulette;
  • plane;
  • hacksaws;
  • spatula;
  • building hair dryer, other means for removing old paint;
  • grinding tool (sandpaper);
  • putties.

Additionally, you may need varnish-and-paint materials, brushes, stencils, glass cutters, tools for welding and cutting metal, lamination, and additional finishing.

How to repair a metal door

The main reasons for repairing a metal door: distortion, rust, breakage of fittings, problems with cladding.

Do-it-yourself skew elimination

The reason for the skew can be the shrinkage of the house, as a result of which the door frame is deformed. This is true for new buildings. In a private house, the problem can be solved by driving a wooden wedge under the bottom panel of the door frame, in apartment buildings - to wait for the final shrinkage of the house. This problem is also corrected by replacing the door hinges with stronger ones. It is almost impossible to do it yourself. Without the help of a specialist, you can only adjust the metal door:

  1. Use a socket wrench to loosen the middle hinge, then the one that needs adjustment.
  2. Pull the blade off, move it to the box, tighten the outer nut.
  3. Wiggle the door until the hinges snap into place. The nuts can now be tightened.
  4. Check the door is working properly. If the problem persists, the procedure can be repeated.

Sometimes it may be necessary to add another hinge if the door is too heavy.

Changing the hinges will help to fix the skew of the metal door

Corrosion control

Metal doors are coated with special anti-corrosion agents, but if the surface is damaged, the iron will begin to rust. Corrosion usually appears on the underside of the web. For repair you will need:

  • fine abrasive sandpaper;
  • brush for metal work;
  • solvent;
  • putty knife;
  • putty;
  • primer;
  • paint;
  • brushes, rollers or spray bottle.

Work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Remove the door from its hinges and remove the hardware.

    The door leaf is lifted and removed from the hinges

  2. After removing the old coating (paint) of the door, clean the rust with a brush. Then sand and degrease. After the solvent has dried, putty the problem areas, after the surface has dried, sand the canvas again and prime it.

    It is better to remove rust with a special tool.

  3. Paint the door surface and cover with anti-corrosion compounds.

    The spray gun will allow you to paint the door quickly and efficiently

Professionals recommend that during door repairs, check if everything is fine with the door frame.

The author's grandfather was still cheerful, every summer he renovated the country house and garage. Including the iron gate. Started in July, finished in August. Not in the sense that he put the gates in order for two months, but simply they were included in the program of mandatory annual repairs. He removed the gate and put it under the shed in the yard. He polished, painted, removed the door from them, fingered the hinges and the lock. The garage is almost 40 years old now, but the gate "feels" great. They have never been replaced. Now his age does not allow his grandfather to be engaged in repairs, but he examines them regularly, pours antifreeze into the hinges, fingering the lock. Calls her grandchildren for painting.

Restoring the functionality of the lock

Often, the reason for the repair of the door is the elements of the fittings: a handle, a peephole, hinges, windows, chains. They are usually replaced with new ones. The exception is complex locking systems, which are repaired by professionals.

If there is a cylinder lock in the door, the repair is carried out according to the plan:

  1. First, unscrew the locking screw. It is located in the lock strip at the end of the door.
  2. The core is removed with a key. It is necessary to turn it so that the core comes out. Before that, the protective covers are removed that cover the end sides of this part (a key is inserted into them). The external parameters of the new core must completely match the parameters of the old one.
  3. After replacing the broken element, the lock returns to its original position and is secured with a locking screw.

In a cylinder lock, it is enough to replace the core to restore its functionality

To replace the lever lock you need:

  1. Fully move the crossbars by turning the key.
  2. Unscrew the screws at the end of the door that hold the lock, replace it with a new one.

If the lever lock is out of order, it must be completely replaced.

In both cases, after completing the repair work, the door must be opened and closed several times.

Repair of metal door cladding

Partial repairs to the front door lining are rarely done. It is more effective to change it completely. For cladding, laminate, MDF panels, leatherette are usually used.

If the defects are small, then a wax pencil will help to fix them on the laminated door. If more serious, you can put a patch of film of the same color and texture on the damaged area, masking the edges with retouching wax.

If the MDF coating is damaged, then the repair is carried out as follows:

  1. The damaged area and an area of ​​about 1 cm around it are cleaned with sandpaper, the wood dust is removed.
  2. Wood putty is applied to this area, and its remains are removed with a rubber spatula.
  3. After drying, the restored surface is re-cleaned with fine-grain emery cloth. Then it is primed and dried.

    Before covering the door with enamel or paint, the surface must be sanded

  4. The entire door is covered with paint or enamel.

You can also replace a damaged MDF panel with a similar one. The leatherette sheathing cannot be repaired.

Video: DIY front door repair

How to repair a wooden door

Wooden front doors are commonly used indoors, but they are also subject to wear and tear. They are vulnerable to changes in humidity and temperature. The main differences between wooden doors are composition (solid board, composite) and purpose. The service life, the need for repair depends on this. For example, an interior door made of a solid board will "live" longer than a similar entrance door.

Skewed wooden door

One of the most common problems is the tight fit of the door leaf to the frame. If the problem is in it, then you need to determine in which of the racks. If the gap is too large, it is necessary to remove the canvas, deepen the seats for canopies in the rack that is too close to the door. For this, a chisel is used.

Deepening the places under the door hinges sometimes helps when the door is skewed

Sometimes, over time, the caps of the screws that hold the awnings begin to protrude too high above the surface of the box. It is enough to twist them, which will allow the door to snap into place.

Sometimes it is enough to tighten the self-tapping screws in the door hinge deeper to eliminate the skew.

If the appearance and service life of the door is not important, you can simply trim the door leaf with a plane from the problem side.

There is a more complicated method: forced deformation of the door frame post. For this you need:

  1. Determine where exactly the door rests. At this point, drill the box from the inside.
  2. After that, drill the second hole through the hole in the box with a puncher at the end of the opening.
  3. Then install a wooden block between the posts, it wedges the box. Place a long dowel in the previously made hole, and remove the bar. Fill the formed gap with polyurethane foam.

Each specific case of deformation of the door frame is considered separately, since sometimes to solve the problem it is enough to simply remove the excess foam, and in case of deformation of a seasonal nature, repair work is carried out after the door takes its normal position.

From personal experience: one of the important points when painting doors is the choice of the season. In my case, the beginning of September was chosen. In our area it is "Indian summer": it is not damp or hot outside. That is, the door and the door frame returned to their normal state - not swollen from moisture, not shriveled from the heat. After the repair, the door endured damp autumn and winter perfectly.

It is better to entrust the installation of a door chain, an additional lock, drilling an eyelet to professionals.

Restoration of a wooden door

A more complex repair option is partial or complete restoration. Partial - elimination of minor defects. The damaged area is cleaned of old paint, coating, and the defect itself is putty, sandpaper and painted.

A complete restoration of the door must be carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Removing old paint or other coating. Usually, a building hair dryer and a spatula are used for this. When removing paint, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that come with the tool, observe safety measures. It is necessary to work carefully with a spatula, especially in embossed places.

    The old coating can be effectively removed with a spatula and a building hairdryer.

  2. Grinding. It is carried out in order to remove paint residues, renew the top layer. If you need to eliminate minor defects, then you can use a putty. It is important to follow the grain direction when sanding, otherwise the sandpaper marks will be too noticeable. This is especially important if varnishing is planned. Experts recommend pouring water over the work surface after the main sanding, and then again walk on it with fine-grained sandpaper.

    It is more convenient to use a special machine for grinding the door leaf.

  3. Painting. The surface is wiped with a damp sponge to get rid of dust, covered with enamel and then paint, but only after the previous layer has completely dried. To do this, use a regular paint brush or spray gun. It is important to move from above, avoiding drips. After the paint has dried, it is better to treat the surface with fine-grained sandpaper. It is recommended to repeat this procedure several times. The door leaf must be covered with two or three layers of paint, and each subsequent one must be applied only after the previous one is completely dry, that is, not earlier than in a day.

Antiseptic treatment will not be superfluous, even if it has already been carried out. This will reduce the risk of mold, mildew, and other threats.

It is better to use a spray gun to paint the door.

Video: restoration of an old door from A to Z

Repair of veneered doors

Repairing a veneered door usually involves eliminating the following troubles:

  • peeling off the decorative layer;
  • chips;
  • scratches.

When peeling off the decorative layer, the putty will not help, so it is again fixed with a special tool, then ironed through a sheet of paper and pressed with a load through the fabric for 3-4 hours.

There is another common problem - veneer swelling. The main reason is incorrect gluing of sheets. If the veneer has been overdried, “waves” may appear on the surface. To avoid cracking, heat the hazardous area with an iron through a sheet of paper or cloth. To avoid the problem of dry veneer, you can cover it with a damp cloth for 10-15 minutes, and only then glue it.

Swollen veneer looks very bad

If the problem is more serious, you can make a patch from a veneer that matches the color and texture. For this you need:

  1. Cut rectangular "windows", removing damaged areas completely.
  2. Seal these areas with pieces of spare veneer. Remember to cut the material across the texture.

A wax crayon is used to remove scratches. It is matched by color. Before use, it is kneaded to the state of plasticine, then applied to the damaged area with a spatula and polished with felt.

A wax pencil allows you to get rid of minor defects on the door

The restored veneer door is usually varnished.

Repair of laminated doors

Minor defects are covered with hard furniture wax. It is heated and applied to the damaged area. Excess wax is removed with a rubber spatula. Sometimes, for accurate shade matching, you will need to mix material of several colors.

Another remedy is a furniture touch. It is applied in 2-3 layers, after drying, the surface is wiped with a damp cloth. If the door is punched through, a laminate of the same color and texture is bought before the repair. Hardboard or plywood is inserted into the hole, a laminate patch is glued on top, and the traces of repair are smeared with a stroke.

The main disadvantage of furniture shrikh is a small assortment of colors.

Modern possibilities of finishing the front door

The modern building materials industry offers a wide variety of front door finishes. For products leading to public areas (street, staircase), powder spraying is used, for "internal" - lamination, plastic, MDF.

Laminate finish

Laminate is usually used to decorate a door from the inside. It is a multi-layer tile, the front surface of which can contain an image. To finish the door with your own hands, you need:

  1. Lay the door leaf horizontally, after removing the hardware.
  2. Make accurate measurements and assemble a shield of laminated tiles using them. It is important that they fit snugly together. The method of connecting the tiles is usually indicated on the packaging. The excess parts are cut off with a jigsaw.
  3. On all sides of the door leaf, fix the slats in the color of the laminate, the shield will be placed between them.

    Laminate tiles have special grooves on the sides, thanks to which they are tightly joined to each other

  4. Apply glue to the previously cleaned and degreased surface of the door leaf, on top - a prepared shield. Holes for locks, an eyelet, and other accessories are made in it in advance.

    Instead of glue, you can use liquid nails.

  5. Then place a weight on the shield, which remains until the glue is completely dry. The final stage is the installation of fittings and the hanging of the door on the hinges.

There is a classification of laminate flooring according to the degree of wear resistance. For a house, you can choose a lower class, and for doors that are more actively used, the quality of the cladding should be higher.

MDF door trim panels

A popular alternative to laminate is MDF panels. This material is more expensive but looks more attractive. Technically, these are strips of veneer material covered with glue on the inside. Each part is attached to the door with the sticky side, from above it is ironed with an iron through paper or fabric. With this method of cladding, it is important to first draw a vertical marking line strictly in the center of the door leaf. You need to start work from this place.

It is important to carefully mark the door leaf.

A classmate spent almost half a year deciding how to sheathe the door to a new apartment, while repairs were underway in it. As a result, he and his wife settled on MDF panels. Mostly because of the discounts in the store, but now both are completely satisfied. The doors are four and a half years old - as if they were installed yesterday.

Anti-vandal powder coated door finish

Powder spraying is used for steel surfaces and is carried out only by specialized enterprises. Feature - anti-vandal properties. The essence of the method: a special powder is sprayed onto the surface under high pressure, consisting of a mixture of polymers, ceramics and metal. The object is then exposed to high temperatures. The applied powder is polymerized by melting into the door surface. Such a coating is resistant to almost any type of mechanical and chemical damage, and has fire-fighting properties. Modern technologies allow you to choose almost any color scheme of such a coating.

Anti-vandal coating will protect the door not only from damage, but also from drawing with a marker.

Other door finishes

The simplest and cheapest option for door trim is chipboard. But it has a number of disadvantages:

  • poor colors;
  • fragility;
  • low resistance to damage.

Chipboard doors are cheap, but short-lived

Other options are more popular:

  1. Leatherette. One of the easiest and most affordable ways. Usually, the door is insulated from the inside or from both sides simultaneously with the upholstery with leatherette.

    Doors with leatherette are not very popular nowadays.

  2. Glued rail. Aesthetic, but more difficult to install cladding option. On the outside of the door, at least 4 holes are drilled for each rail. For the installation of the cladding, a frame is mounted on the inside, to which the cladding is nailed.
  3. Lining. The material has special grooves and spikes for installing hidden fasteners.
  4. Fake diamond. It is used less often than other options due to its high cost. Pros: a wide range of colors and textures, aesthetics, resistance to mechanical damage, changes in humidity and temperature.
  5. Plastic. Sheathing with this material is mainly used for office doors. Plastic is one of the cheapest options.
  6. Paint. Sometimes a metal door is covered with anti-corrosion compounds and painted in one or more colors, a pattern can be applied.

    The paint helps to give the door any shade

  7. Mirrors. They are used for finishing the inner side of the door to visually enlarge the hallway.

When choosing a door trim material, it is important to consider in which mode the door will be operated, how important the visual component is, and the total cost of work.

Doorway repair

The main problem faced by the owner of a renovated or new front door is the design of the doorway. The new door, in contrast to the old doorway, looks less attractive.

Almost all finishing work can be done by yourself. Their main task is to eliminate drafts due to leaking joints between the walls and the door frame. This will increase the indoor temperature in winter and prevent unnecessary operation of the air conditioner in summer. Usual polyurethane foam is used:

  1. It is poured between the wall and the door frame both from the inside and outside of the room. An easy way to determine if there is a draft is to sweep a lit candle along the seam after pouring the foam. The flame will show if there is air movement.

    The use of polyurethane foam is the most convenient way to seal a doorway

  2. If the seams are tight, the excess foam is cut off, and finishing work begins.
  3. Elastic cement-glue is used to close the mounting gaps.
  4. At the end, the platbands are mounted using special brackets. They are connected at an angle of 45 °. For cutting, you will need a miter box or a rotary hand hacksaw. If neither one, nor the other - there is an option of cutting at 90 °, but it requires skills.

    Installation of the platband at an angle of 90 ° is not possible for every master

  5. The slopes are now being installed. To do this, all traces of the old coating are removed from them, the surface is primed, covered with glue-cement and leveled. In apartment buildings, usually work with the outer part of the doorway ends there, the owners of the cottages can trim the slopes within their capabilities. Most often, MDF panels are used for this.

Video: how to use a miter box when cutting platbands

Interior finishing of door slopes

Various materials are used to refine the interior of the doorway. It all depends on the wishes of the owner's capabilities. Used by:

  • drywall;
  • MDF panels;
  • laminate;
  • plastic panels;
  • wood;
  • plaster;
  • cement strainer;
  • fake diamond.

You can decorate the entrance opening with almost any building material - the number of options is limited only by the owner's imagination and resources. The main thing is to take into account the interior design of the room and the exterior of the building. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the climate, the activity of door operation, the complexity of the care of the cladding.

Various materials are used for facing the doorway

Decorating slopes with plasterboard

The most popular way is to finish the inner slopes of the doorway with plasterboard. This is due to its versatility, low cost and good performance. The main difficulty in working with drywall is to properly cut a standard sheet into pieces of the desired size.

The marking of the material is carried out only with a pencil, it will be extremely difficult to remove or hide the traces of a ballpoint pen or marker later.

Video: how to cut drywall without special tools and helpers

Drywall tools

The optimal thickness of drywall is from 9.5 to 12.5 mm. You will need:

  • dowels 6x60 with screws;
  • self-tapping screws for metal;
  • plastic starting guide.

The following tools are needed:

  • knife;
  • roulette;
  • a hammer;
  • screwdriver;

    For self-tapping screws, you can drill holes in advance

  • puncher;
  • putty knife;
  • building level;
  • aluminum rule or long section of the profile;

    The rule allows you to evenly distribute the building mixture

  • simple pencil;
  • container for diluting the adhesive composition.

Procedure for installing drywall slopes

To install gypsum plasterboard slopes, you need:

  1. Level the surface as much as possible, cut the foam. Drill holes in the walls in 20 cm increments, insert dowels. Screw the screws into them. This will allow the slopes to hold on tightly.
  2. Measure the length of each side of the door frame. Cut three strips of the appropriate length from the starting guide.
  3. Make the upper guide equal to the width of the opening. Measure the same distance from the door frame (box) and fix the guide in three desired directions with self-tapping screws. The short side is on the inside, the long side is on the outside.
  4. According to the measurements made, mark three stripes for cladding on a drywall sheet. When working with this material, it is worth considering its capriciousness. If there is no experience, when pruning, you can get a broken edge, which will sprinkle. It will no longer be possible to work with such material.
  5. Mix the adhesive solution. Get rid of lumps, the composition should be homogeneous. Apply it to drywall strips and dowels.

    The adhesive solution must be sufficiently viscous, but homogeneous

  6. Insert the drywall strips into the appropriate guide and press down firmly. It is important not to overdo it with the amount of adhesive solution. If there is a lot of it, drywall can bend. The remaining gaps between the wall and the drywall after this should be covered with the remnants of the solution.

    It is important to correctly calculate the amount of glue

  7. Check the result of your work with a building level. Leave the structure for 10-12 hours.
  8. Fill and paint the slopes.

Video: installation of plasterboard door slopes

Finishing the doorway with plastic panels

Decorating the doorway with plastic panels is a popular option. Its advantages:

  • affordable price;
  • easy installation;
  • immunity to mold and mildew;
  • low flammability;
  • durability.

Traditional set of tools:

  • puncher;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • building level;
  • jigsaw or scissors for metal;
  • fastening material.

Finishing technology:

  1. Installation of lathing (this is easier than achieving a perfect surface) and panels on it. The frame can be wooden or metal. The second option is much more expensive.

    Metal sheathing can cost more than the panels themselves

  2. Padding. If you mount the slopes without lathing, they cannot be removed. Such a need may arise to remove mold and mildew. A quality primer will prevent this problem from occurring.
  3. Plastering surfaces where slopes will be located. If it is perfectly smooth, you can do without the crate.
  4. Removing traces of finishing.

Plastic slopes are more often used for window and doorways to a balcony or loggia.

Making the plastic slopes of the door to the loggia can be done independently

Alternative installation options for door slopes

There are other materials that can be used to decorate the doorway:

  1. MDF panels. Installation technology is similar to plasterboard cladding, sometimes screws or polyurethane foam are used. Advantages - high wear resistance, aesthetics, a wide range of colors and textures. Disadvantages - the relatively high cost of the material.

    MDF panels cannot be used in a room with high humidity

  2. Laminate. Installation technology is similar to the previous version. The disadvantages include problems when cutting laminate. Often the material cracks at the same time, but this can be prevented with the help of a special crayon.
  3. Plaster. The easiest and cheapest option. Advantages - nothing will bend or deform from changes in humidity and temperature, voids will not appear. The surface must be primed, then set the corner (it forms an even edge), apply two layers of plaster, the first of which is thicker. Prime, putty, wipe, sand again.

    The surface of the slopes must be perfectly flat

  4. Wood. Quite an expensive option. Usually they are not mounted on glue, but on a frame made of a drywall profile or wooden slats. Before constructing the frame element, the walls must be aligned. Dowels or impact screws are suitable as fasteners. Iron bridges between the supporting elements will help make the frame stronger. The electrical wiring is hidden under the slopes at the stage of frame installation.

Decorating doorways with stone

The advantages of stone finishing are its durability, durability, environmental friendliness, beauty and originality. The stone does not condense water. In addition, the laying of this material does not require a large number of repair skills, so anyone who will approach the matter with diligence can do it.

The technology of finishing with artificial and natural stone is the same. The first has a wider assortment. When choosing a natural stone, you can give preference to sandstone, it is ideal for facing, especially when cut into thin strips of various lengths.

Instead of stone, you can use the remnants of tiles that were not useful in the repair of a bathroom or toilet. This will save you some money.

Stone cladding technology

The general rule for the design of openings is that there should be more stone on top than below. You need to lay the stone as follows:

  1. Clean and degrease the work surface, prime, treat with "concrete contact".

    When decorating a doorway with a stone, it is not necessary to observe symmetry

  2. Lay out the stone tiles on a horizontal surface, creating a layout for the future cladding, understand where which tiles will be located.
  3. Perform cladding. Work should start from the bottom from any convenient angle. The tiles are attached to the wall with special glue or liquid nails.

    Stone cladding is placed on glue and liquid nails

  4. If, as part of the design concept, some kind of tile needs to be cut, this should be done as carefully as possible. The edges of the stone must be sanded, erasing sharp corners.
  5. On the vertical edge of the doorway, attach the tiles end-to-end to the border of the future casing. At the corners of the walls, a butt joint at an angle is used.
  6. After the fastening material has dried, decorate the stone cladding with tint paste. Usually it is made on the basis of water and acrylic varnish. This will give the stone the desired tonality.

Video: the process of finishing a doorway with a stone

It is better to entrust the repair of metal doors to specialists. This is due to the large mass of the structure and the complexity of the work.But some can be done by yourself, for example, adjusting the loops. Repair and reconstruction of wooden doors, the design of doorways is quite within the power of an ordinary person. Especially if there are assistants, desire and minimal hand skills.

It is not a problem to make wooden doors yourself, but first you need to figure out where you intend to put this canvas and what requirements are imposed on its aesthetic and operational data. After all, you must admit that a pantry in the backyard is one thing, and making doors with your own hands for rooms or your favorite bath is quite another.

Massive canvases

In this case, the term "massive doors" does not in any way refer to either the dimensions or the weight of the door leaf. This means that the doors are completely made of wood and there are no technological voids inside. Plus, such a canvas is assembled from solid boards and does not have any windows or other inserts.

Massive doors belong to an elite product

In stores, the price for such a product is one of the highest, and at the same time, making solid massive doors with your own hands is quite possible for any home craftsman. The strength of such a canvas is the highest, only iron doors are stronger than massive ones, and even then not all, if compared with Chinese goods, it is better to make the door yourself from a tongue-and-groove board.

Making doors with your own hands from a solid board for a beginner is quite realistic

Of course, you should not immediately take on a solid canvas, shining with exquisite polishing, but how to make doors with your own hands, for example, for a bath, we will tell you in all the details, but a little later.

Paneled canvases

Simply put, the term "paneled doors" means prefabricated doors. That is, first some kind of frame is made, and then panels (inserts) are inserted in certain places of this frame.

Arrangement of inserts in paneled doors

In classic paneled canvases, such inserts are made of wood. Glass can be used instead of wood in interior paneled doors. The design turns out to be light and beautiful, plus less material is spent on it.

But we do not advise novice craftsmen to take on this type of door. Firstly, in order to correctly dock the frame strips and insert panels into them, you need skill, and secondly, to make such canvases, a lot of good things are required, including a professional tool.

Inserts in interior paneled doors can be made of different materials

Panel and frame canvases

From the point of view of the layman, panel and frame doors are not much different. It is believed that the panel door consists of a rectangular box, which is sewn on both sides with solid sheets of fiberboard or plywood. At the same time, her frame sister is made of the same box, only stiffeners from wooden bars are installed inside.

Professionals divide these doors according to other criteria; they distinguish between solid, hollow and small-hollow canvases.

  • Solid canvases are the highest quality in this niche. Inside, the box is filled with a wooden lath, which significantly increases the strength of the structure. True, the quality of the slats is not the highest; waste often goes there. In part, this design resembles a solid block, only a high-quality grooved board is used there, and here production waste
  • Small-hollow canvases - such doors differ from solid ones in that the inside of the canvas is filled in fragments. Roughly speaking, when they want to save money or do not have enough wooden slats for continuous filling, these slats are fastened with passes, through one

On the left (A) continuous, and on the right (B) shallow filling of the canvas

In panel boards, the technology and existing GOSTs allow using chipboard, MDF, polystyrene and even honeycomb cardboard as a filler in addition to wooden slats.

  • Hollow canvases are the simplest and cheapest option for doors. Here, sheets of plywood or fiberboard are simply stuffed on both sides of the box. To make the empty box not so noisy, a filler is mounted there. The cheapest filler option is honeycomb cardboard, and the best is polystyrene.

It is clear that it is easier to make simple doors with your own hands, so we will leave the paneled structures alone and focus on massive and panel canvases.

Watch the video: Door Threshold leaks, Video 1 of 2. Water wicks towards wood jambs.