Pushkinia: planting and care in the open field, photos, types and varieties
Flower pushkinia (lat.Puschkinia) belongs to the genus of the subfamily Hyacinths of the Asparagus family, although some experts prefer to include it in the Liliaceae family. Plants of this genus are named in honor of Musin-Pushkin, a Russian chemist and mineralogist, a member of the Royal Society of London, who was the first to collect these plants on Ararat. Sometimes Pushkinia is called dwarf hyacinth, because hyacinths and Pushkinia are the closest relatives and have great similarities.
The genus Pushkin has two species and several varieties that grow in nature on stony wet slopes, as well as among shrubs and on mountain meadows in the Caucasus, Asia Minor and Western Asia.
Planting and caring for a cannon
- Landing: sowing seeds in the ground - in June, immediately after harvest, or from mid-September to the third decade of October.
- Bloom: April May.
- Lighting: bright sunlight or light partial shade.
- The soil: fertile, permeable, rich in nutrients.
- Watering: regular, moisture is especially needed during the growth of the leaves.
- Mulching: desirable.
- Top dressing: in early spring, still in the snow, full of mineral fertilizers.
- Reproduction: bulbs or seeds.
- Pests: mice, root meadow mites.
- Diseases: gray rot, bulb rot, achelenchoides.
Read more about growing Pushkinia below.
The Pushkinia plant is one of the most attractive spring primroses with a height of 15 to 20 cm. It is a herbaceous plant, ephemeroid, with ovoid bulbs in brown and thin outer scales. The leaves of Pushkinia are linear-belt-shaped, dark green, located at the base of the stem in the amount of 2-3 pieces. Pale blue or white bell-shaped flowers, collected in racemose inflorescences and differing in a weak, but not very pleasant aroma, sometimes appear on peduncles a few days later than leaves. The fruit of Pushkinia is a juicy box with round changes of light brown color.
Pushkinia, in addition to being a long-awaited spring flower, has, despite its small size, one more advantage - high decorativeness. It looks great in rockeries, in small backyard gardens in combination with other primroses or perennials.
Planting Pushkinia in open ground
When to plant
Growing Pushkinia from seeds will require time, since the first flowers on a plant from seeds appear only four years after sowing. Only the germination of seeds takes at least a month. However, the generative way of growing Pushkinia is just as reliable as the vegetative one. Sowing seeds of Pushkinia is carried out immediately after collection, in June, or in the fall, from mid-September to the twenties of October, but in this case they will have to be stored before sowing in the refrigerator, reliably protected from drying out.
How to plant in the ground
When sowing podzimnym in open ground, the seeds of Pushkinia undergo natural stratification during the winter, which in the future has a beneficial effect on their health and development. However, before sowing, you need to prepare the site: make good drainage, if necessary, loosen too dense soil with peat, sand and leaf humus. The site itself may be sunny or in light shade. Sowing is carried out to a depth of at least 5 cm, the site is then mulched with peat for the winter.
Pushkin care in the garden
Pushkinia care, like caring for other garden flowers, includes:
- regular watering;
- loosening the site;
- fertilizing with fertilizers;
- removal of wilted inflorescences.
In order to make your work easier and save time, mulch the area with peat peat. In all these types of work, it is very important to observe regularity and methodicality, because if you neglect, for example, weeding a site with a push, then aggressive weeds will easily clog the fragile little push.
In early spring, even in the snow, Pushkinia is fed with a complete mineral fertilizer, for example, nitrophosphate, spreading it evenly over the site in an amount of 50-60 g per m² (this is about two handfuls). In April, when the seedlings are already clearly visible, and the ground has thawed, loosen the aisles.
In dry spring, plantings need watering, but the need for moisture in Pushkinia is especially strong during the rapid growth of leaves. In the summer months, despite the fact that the Pushkinia has already faded, it is necessary to keep the area clean by immediately removing weeds and loosening the aisles. If you find sick or yellowed specimens on the site, immediately dig them up and burn them without regret.
As you can see, planting and caring for a cannon in the open field will not require heroic efforts from you, but the pleasure of these delicate primroses can hardly be overestimated.
Reproduction of Pushkinia
Planting and caring for the Pushkinia flower also provides for the timely transplantation of the plant, since in 4-5 years an adult bulb grows a whole nest of 5-7 children of different ages, which becomes cramped, and the decorativeness of the plant suffers from this. The transplantation of Pushkinia is accompanied by dividing its bulb - a vegetative method of reproduction, which, along with the seed method described by us in the previous sections, propagates Pushkinia. The nest of bulbs is removed from the ground, separated from the mother's bulb of the babies, sent for storage and in the fall they are seated at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other. The bulb is divided every five to six years.
In this matter, it is important to dig up the bulb on time, since if this is done too early, the unripe bulbs will be poorly stored, and if it is too late, the babies easily break off from the mother bulb in the process of removing them from the soil, often go unnoticed in the soil and clog the area ... The sign by which it is determined that it is time to dig up the bulbs is the drying out of the leaves of Pushkinia.
Remove the bulbs from the ground, dry them in the shade, clean them of soil and old roots, separate the children, sort them by size: small bulbs are planted on a training bed for growing, and large ones are suitable for planting in the ground or for forcing at home. Sorted planting material is stored until planting in a cool room with good ventilation in slightly damp sawdust or peat.
Pushkinia planting in the ground is carried out in the fall. The bulbs, depending on the size, are buried by 5-7 cm, keeping a distance of 10 cm between them.
Pushkinia reproduces well by self-seeding, and if you take control of this process, you will not need to fiddle with seed reproduction.
Pests and diseases
Pushkinia suffers from common bulbous and small-bulbous diseases, for example, from gray rot caused by the fungus Botrytis and manifested by brown spots on the ground parts of the plant. The danger of the disease is that Botrytis is omnivorous, it easily migrates from one plant to another. As a prophylaxis of the disease, when watering, avoid getting water on the leaves, do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers, and immediately remove the affected parts of the plant. The fungus is destroyed at the beginning of the intervention by treating the cannon with Topaz, Champion, Cuproxat or Bordeaux liquid. In case of severe defeat, they use Previkur, Skor, Fundazol.
Bulb rot caused by various fungi is an equally dangerous disease. Affected plants turn yellow at the base of the leaves, the infection penetrates the bulbs, red-brown spots appear on them, as a result, the bulbs die. The infection can persist in the ground. Timely treatment with copper-containing preparations will save Pushkin. Before planting, carefully inspect the bulbs and in no case plant suspicious specimens in the ground.
Achelenchoides is a disease that causes the scales of the bulbs to turn brown, which is why they rot in rings, necrotic spots of light brown color appear on the surface, at the very bottom, the plants begin to lag behind in development and lose their decorative effect. Damaged bulbs are to be destroyed, and the rest are soaked in hot water (43 ºC) before planting.
Of the pests, mice are dangerous for Pushkin, which are scared away by poisoned baits spread around the site, and root meadow mites, gnawing the bottoms of the bulbs, penetrating deep into and feeding on internal scales, causing the bulbs to dry out or rot. As a preventive measure, before planting, the bulbs are etched with insecticides, which subsequently, when a danger arises, treat the plants on the site.
Pushkinia after flowering
Autumn and winter care
We have already described the stage-by-stage vegetation period of Pushkinia. In the fall, when the bulbs of Pushkinia are planted, and the seeds are sown in the ground, a period of dormancy begins for the plant. In order for the Pushkinia to winter calmly, the site is mulched with a layer of humus 2-3 cm thick or a layer of peat 5-7 cm thick.And there is no need to rush to remove the mulch: in spring and summer, it will protect the Pushkinia from drying out and young weeds.
Pushkinia lends itself well to forcing and can bloom in the winter on your windowsill. To do this, several bulbs of Pushkinia are planted in November in a pot with a diameter of 13-15 cm and a height of about 7 cm, filled with an earthen mixture consisting of two parts of sod land, one part of river sand and one part of leaf humus. The pot is kept for 2-2.5 months in a dark basement with a temperature of no higher than 10 ºC and an air humidity of 85-90%, and after this period it is transferred to a bright room with an air temperature of no higher than 15 ºC and watering begins.
Pushkinia will bloom in 2-3 weeks. Take your time to throw away the Pushkinia bulb after it has bloomed: there is an article on our website that describes how to care for the bulbs used for forcing after flowering. With proper care, this bulb can bloom more than once.
Types and varieties
In culture, only two types of Pushkinia are grown: hyacinthous and proleskidny.
Pushkinia hyacinthus (Puschkinia hyacinthoides)
Grows in nature on the slopes of the mountains of Northern Iran and Eastern Transcaucasia. This is a charming small plant with linear fleshy leaves up to 15 cm long and about 1 cm wide.The bulbs in plants of this species reach 2 cm in diameter.Strong peduncles up to 15 cm high bear dense oval inflorescences of 12-30 drooping pale blue, almost white flowers up to 1.5 cm in diameter with a bright blue stripe along the back of the petals. One adult bulb produces up to 4 peduncles. Pushkinia hyacinth blooms from 10 days to three weeks.
Grows in meadows, forest edges among shrubs in the mountains of the Caucasus, Turkey, Iran and Lebanon. This is a small plant with two basal dark green narrow-linear fleshy leaves 12-15 cm long, which are formed simultaneously with peduncles reaching 20 cm in height. On the peduncles, fragrant bell-shaped pale blue flowers with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm with a blue stripe in the center of each part of the perianth are revealed. The flowers are collected in a small-flowered racemose inflorescence up to 12 cm long. This species blooms from May for three weeks.
There is a widely known variety of Pushkinia proleskovid, which is called Pushkinia Lebanotica, or Pushkinia of Lebanon. This variety differs from the main species in larger flowers with two-toothed crown lobes. Planting and caring for the Lebanese cannon is carried out in the same order as planting and caring for the main species, the pristine cannon.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Asparagus
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Information about Herbaceous plants
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Pushkinia - how to plant in open ground?
So, when does pushkinia begin to bloom? This is an early flowering plant, so it will delight your eye already at the beginning of April. Immediately after flowering, the stem and leaves dry out, the flower dies off. How to sit down Pushkinia? Bulbs or seeds can be used as planting material. The latter option is rather impractical and most often does not give any results, therefore it is recommended to germinate seeds in advance, at home. This is easy to do - you just need to deepen the seed into a loose, nutritious, moist soil, cover with a thick cloth and put in a dark place. In a few weeks, the first shoots will appear, which need to be watered and a little fertilized. As soon as the seedlings reach a height of 15 cm, it's time to plant them in open ground.
When is it necessary to plant a cannon? The optimal planting time is autumn (September, October). But it is important that the air temperature does not drop too low, otherwise the root system of the plant will not have time to take root and survive the frost.
Planting Pushkinia in open ground
In order for Pushkinia to begin and delight you in the spring with beautiful flowering, it needs to create the most optimal conditions:
- Location. The best place for planting a plant is a sunny, well-lit area. You should not plant a flower under a tree or a shrub that is too tall. Also, make sure that the root system of the plant does not come into contact with groundwater, which will cause irreparable harm to it. Pushkin does not tolerate drafts, therefore, it should be protected as much as possible from such influence.
- Priming. Like any other plant, Pushkinia prefers a loose, nutritious soil in which a wide variety of trace elements will be present. This can be purchased in specialized stores, or you can mix it yourself with your own hands.
- Pit . How to plant a cannon in open ground? To begin with, a small hole is dug, at the bottom of which humus and a drainage system (expanded clay or crushed stone) are placed. The roots sink slightly into the hole, but do not go deep. Within a couple of weeks, your seedling will take root and take root in a new place.
Reproduction and planting
Choosing a place in the garden
Due to its high tolerance, bergenia can be grown in various places - shady, semi-shady, sunny. The penumbra position is most optimal, but with good soil moisture, the plant grows well in a sunny position. In strongly shaded corners of the garden, it blooms less, but forms a lush bush.
Advice! It is better to avoid places strongly illuminated by the sun, where the leaves of the heart-shaped incense can sometimes burn.
The optimal place for this perennial plant is not far from water bodies, because badan really likes a well-moisturized substrate.
When planting badan, one should be guided by the principle: the more sun, the more humid the substrate should be.
Badan can be grown in a variety of soils - from neutral to alkaline, moderately and constantly moist.
However, if large flowers and attractive leaves are to be obtained, care must be taken to ensure that the substrate is fertile enough. Although the plant can grow even on rocks, and there delight with beautiful flowers.
Badan reproduces effortlessly in 4 ways:
- dividing the plant in early spring
- dividing the rhizomes into pieces - cuttings followed by rooting
- cuttings cut from shoots
- sowing seeds.
Most often, badan is propagated vegetatively, because seedlings obtained from seeds do not always retain the characteristics of the parent plant.
By dividing the bush
Reproduction by division is possible in spring and autumn. For this, large bushes are divided into several smaller ones (2-5 parts). Badan spreads very easily on its own, so after a few seasons you will have to dig out the bushes and divide them again. If this is not done, there is a risk that the plant will dominate the entire flower bed.
The rhizomes are divided into fragments of several centimeters (at least 3 cm), and then rooted in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand. When the roots sprout, they can be planted in separate pots.
Cuttings from shoots
Another method of breeding badan is cuttings from shoots. Cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots from April to June. A fragment of a shoot with 3 leaves is cut off and rooted in peat.
Reproduction of badan from seeds is much more difficult. Seeds germinate at 15 degrees Celsius, but this is a long and uneven process. They are sown on the surface of the substrate because they will not germinate without the sun. The resulting young plants are planted in the garden only in the spring, when the frost returns, because they may be slightly more sensitive to cold than adult specimens.
Landing in the ground
Planting badan is carried out in mid-autumn or early spring, preferably until April. Although the plant is small, the distance between the bushes should be 30-45 cm, because incense tends to spread. It is worth highlighting a place where the plant can develop freely.
Monarda is propagated in 3 ways:
- division of plants,
By dividing plants
In spring and autumn, plants are separated, choosing well-developed specimens, and planted in the ground for rooting. This method is especially recommended in the case of overgrown bushes that need rejuvenation after a few years in order to maintain a pleasant shape. This is the best way to reproduce a flower, each division yields 2-3 new plants that can be planted in a different part of the garden.
- With the help of a sharp shovel, the bush is divided in half, one of the halves is dug out.
- Gently shake off the soil. Then, using a pruning shear, the main roots are pruned and the plant is divided into 2-3 parts, making sure that each also has small hair-like roots.
- Plants are planted separately in flower beds.
In early spring, cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots, dipped in a rooting agent and planted in the soil for germination.
Alternatively, monarda can be propagated on a larger scale from seeds obtained from flowers left on the stems until completely dry. Thoroughly dried seeds should be refrigerated prior to planting.
The term for sowing monarda seeds for seedlings is spring (February-March).
Seeds are sown in seed boxes, placed in a warm room. The soil for seedlings is taken universal, mixed with sand. Sowing monarda with seeds for seedlings is carried out in prepared, well-moistened soil and covered with 3 millimeters of substrate.
In warm and humid conditions, the first shoots will appear within 2 weeks. After 8 weeks, the seedlings are transplanted into large containers. After spring frosts, young plants are immediately planted in a permanent place. Monarda sown with seeds do not always retain the varietal characteristics of the parent sample and bloom only in the second year after sowing.
It is better to propagate the monarda from rhizomes or cuttings; seed propagation is less likely to be successful.
Use in landscape design
Weigels are planted in the garden in different combinations:
- These shrubs look better as single plants planted against the background of a bright green lawn, light wall or wooden fence.
- Shrubs also look beautiful when planted in single-species groups or as part of flower beds.
- They can be used to create a loose, unformed hedge.
Low varieties are planted in containers, used to create green borders. Weigelu can be combined with other ornamental shrubs - fragrant jasmine, forsythia.
The shrub tolerates air pollution quite well, therefore it is suitable for urban gardens in industrial areas.
It is not difficult to grow Weigela, when creating a garden, it is worth planting this shrub, and without any problems enjoying its abundant flowering at the turn of spring and summer, and later, because it often repeats flowering. Despite the fact that the shrubs are not particularly demanding, it is worth providing them with conditions as close to optimal as possible.