Best Ways to Treat Tomato Fusarium Wilt
Any gardener growing tomatoes must know all the diseases that can affect a crop at any stage of growth. This requirement is mandatory for everyone who wants to get a bountiful harvest that is distinguished by excellent taste. One of the common diseases of tomato bushes is fusarium wilting.
To successfully deal with it, it is recommended to be able to recognize its main signs and take timely measures.
How to recognize fusarium tomato
Often, gardeners are confused about the signs of fusarium wilting of seedlings and other diseases. The lack of useful components in the soil becomes the reason that all the poisonous compounds and fertilizers at hand are used, which often do not bring positive results.
It is necessary carefully examine the signs this disease, which can occur not only on seedlings, but also on adult tomato bushes:
- the initial stage of the disease can be recognized on the lower foliage... After some time, the disease spreads throughout the plant. Leaves become pale or yellow, their veins brighten;
- leaf petioles are deformed, leaves begin curl up, then - to fall;
- upper shoots of the bush fade... After a while, the bush dries up completely;
- the final stage - the dying off of the root system;
- in the period of wet weather, a light bloom appears on the roots, in sunny weather the symptoms appear even more.
The signs of this disease can only be recognized at the stages of flowering and fertilization of tomato bushes. At this time, the main phase of the disease passes.
Causes of the disease
Fusarium is a common and quite dangerous disease. She appears in all climatic zones.
When a fungus is damaged, the tissues and blood vessels of the plant are affected, it begins to fade, the root system and fruits rot. The main problem lies in the fact that the pathogen can be in the soil or on plant debris for a long time, then inflict damage on new crops.
A disease provocateur can become and previously planted or sown material... Experienced gardeners have noticed that insufficient lighting and dense plantings are often the causes of the disease.
The importance is attached to and ecology of the area... If a large industrial enterprise is located in the immediate vicinity of a plot with tomato plants, then it can have a negative impact on the future harvest.
The cause of the disease is closely passing groundwater, excessive amounts of nitrogen and chlorine or their insufficiency, irrigation disturbances, erroneous actions in the organization of crop rotation.
Quite often, Fusarium enters the plant through small wounds remaining from pinching.
Methods for treating fusarium wilt
The disease is dangerous, the spores that provoke it are resistant to different chemical compounds to combat it. A large number of fungi are found inside the plant, not on its surface. Removing them from the vessels of a tomato bush is difficult, and sometimes impossible.
If the seedlings are severely infested, they are best remove along with the root and burn... In such beds, it is subsequently recommended to plant tomato varieties that are distinguished by good resistance to such a disease. But even in this case, there is no one hundred percent certainty that the future harvest is completely protected from fusarium.
To prevent further development of the disease, it is recommended to take appropriate treatment measures:
- thoroughly clean up the beds before the winter season;
- dig deep into the ground, decontaminate her before sowing;
- process seed material and warm it up;
- pinch the bushes with pruning shears;
- spud the planted seedlings.
If the disease is detected at an early stage, then you can apply chemical compositions from the fungus. Up to half a liter of the prepared Trichodermin solution is applied under each plant. Falcon is also effective, with which the foliage of plants is processed.
Identifying brown spot on tomatoes
The initial signs are recognized during the flowering period. The outer parts of the lower foliage are covered with spots of a light green hue. A grayish bloom appears on the inside of the diseased leaves.
Brown spot develops, moves to the upper branches of the plant, continuing to affect the foliage and without touching the stem with fruits... True, the latter do not fully receive useful components to support the process of photosynthesis.
Reasons for the appearance and methods of struggle
The main causes of the disease are:
- high humidity air;
- high temperature conditions;
- infectious foci in the form of the remains of last year's plants, contaminated soil, wooden elements of the greenhouse, garbage heaps.
There are two ways to deal with such a nuisance:
- folk remedies;
- chemical preparations.
In the first case, the plants are sprayed iodine chloride... With the same solution, the soil composition is poured to a ten-centimeter depth. The solution is prepared simply - 30 g of potassium chloride and 40 drops of iodine are added to a bucket of water.
Milk whey, which is used to treat tomato bushes, also helps. One liter is enough for ten liters of water.
Copper oxychloride, Bravo, Ditan are recommended as chemicals. Solutions are prepared strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Plants need to be processed twice, with an interval of two weeks.
Prevention of brown spot
It is recommended to take the following measures:
- having finished harvesting, remove the plants along with the roots and burn everything;
- follow crop rotation;
- ventilate greenhouse buildings so that the humidity level does not exceed seventy percent;
- remove and burn affected foliage;
- observe the watering regime;
- monitor the temperature regime.
Such diseases can cause significant damage to your garden. But if you constantly carry out preventive measures, then the chances of preserving plants will increase.
Fusarium wilt of tomatoes: a description of the disease and the fight against it
If there is a fusarium wilt of tomatoes, treatment should be started immediately, since only in the early stages of the disease is it effective... Many gardeners face this difficult problem. If the tomatoes wither in the beds, the future harvest can still be saved, but it is important to take the necessary measures in a timely manner. At the same time, only at the 2nd stage of the disease do the symptoms of plant infection with Fusarium become noticeable.
If fusarium wilting of tomatoes occurs, treatment should be started immediately.
Fusarium wilt of tomatoes: prevention and treatment
Fungal infection is the main cause of tomato crop loss. Fusarium is a common disease that occurs in most vegetable crops.
This article will tell you why the disease appears, how to recognize it, and whether it is possible to get rid of it. Check out a few gardener tips.
Fusarium wilting: description and photo
Fusarium tomato wilting is a dangerous infectious diseasecaused by fungi from the genus Fusarium. The pathogen lives in the soil and infects plants through young roots, or damage on the stem. The fungus is resistant to adverse environmental conditions, so it can be stored in the ground for years.
Fungal disease has other names - dry rot and fusarium wilting. They were obtained due to the underlying symptoms of the infection. Tomatoes wither, flowering worsens, leaves turn yellow and fall off. If you cut the stem, you will find a dark ring. This means that dry rot has already hit the root system and irrevocably destroyed the plant.
Young and weakened plants fall prey to fusarium wilting.... The disease develops due to:
- sharp temperature fluctuations
- lack of nutrients
- insect damage
- high humidity of soil and air.
The development of fusarium is enhanced if the tomatoes receive excess nitrogen fertilization, or a large amount of phosphorus accumulates in the soil.
Reasons for the appearance
Microorganisms clog the vessels of tomatoes, disrupting their metabolism. The vital activity of the mycelium leads to the accumulation of toxic substances in the tissues, followed by dehydration of the tomatoes. Here are the main reasons for the appearance of fusarium:
- Seeds or purchased seedlings were not pickled... Planting material or seedlings may already contain dry rot pathogens. The grower needs to disinfect the seeds or roots in a special solution.
- A dirty tool was used during pinning, or rough cultivation took place. Sloppy weeding or loosening is a direct path to root damage. Through the wounds, the pathogen penetrates the tissues.
- Improper preparation of compost, organic mulch... Getting into the fertilizer or mulch mixture, the fungus instantly "eats" the plants.
Signs and similar diseases
Fusarium is insidious and dangerous... Inexperienced gardeners often confuse it with vertilla wilt (wilt), which develops very quickly (tomatoes die in 2-3 days). Symptoms of wilt are similar to those of fusarium, but differ in the development cycle. Inadequate treatment leads to an even greater deterioration in the condition of plants, as well as a significant loss of personal time.
Here are the main signs of dry rot:
- It manifests itself only on stepchildren culturesthat have entered the fruiting stage.
- Fusarium develops from the bottom up... The first symptoms of the vital activity of the fungus can be found on the adult lower leaves. The leaf plates lose their turgor, acquire a yellow color, and disappear. The disease continues to move to the next tier of the plant.
- One side is very often affected... For example, tomato leaves fade and turn yellow, side shoots only on the right side.
- Wither tops... They look "jaded" but retain their natural color. It seems that the plant has not been watered for a long time.
- The conducting system is affected... On the cut of a lifeless leaf or shoot, the tissue acquires a reddish-brown tint.
There are times when tomatoes are affected by several types of fungus:
- fusarium wilting
- fusarium rot of the roots and root collar.
The following picture is observed: the root collar is covered with brown areas, the roots - with red-brown lesions.
Stages of development
The infection affects tomatoes in the following stages:
- The roots suffer first. The fungus poisons young and delicate roots with mitocoxins. The underground part rots and an outwardly healthy plant falls to the ground.
- Gradually, the fungus moves higher and higher along the vessels of the stem. Clogging of tissues occurs, the leaves wither at the base of the stem, become watery at the edges, acquire a pale green or yellowish tint. If the humidity is high, then the leaf plates are covered with a whitish bloom.
- The toxins completely destroy the plants, and eventually they die.
The plant resists dry rot from several days to 2 months. Tomatoes die much faster at + 16 ° C. The cycle of development of the disease is from 7 to 30 days, and depends on the composition of the soil, environmental conditions, age and variety of tomatoes.
How to fight?
There are various ways to prevent and treat tomato fusarium wilt.
It is important to follow the rules of crop rotation... They consist in regularly changing the area for growing tomatoes. Tomatoes can be planted in their original place after 3-4 seasons. Choose the soil for planting this vegetable crop after cabbage, pumpkin, cucumber. It is unacceptable to plant tomatoes in place:
If it is not possible to plant tomato seedlings in another place, then varieties that are resistant to fungal infections should be chosen.
Moderate feeding promotes good plant health... Before planting seedlings, the soil must be fertilized with compost or manure. If there is no organic fertilizer, then nitrogen-containing preparations will be a good option.
It is important to understand that "grandmother's advice" is not effective against fusarium in advanced stages. The following folk recipes are good because they are able to slow down the development of the disease:
- Wood ash... It is enough to powder the bushes with dry ash, or prepare an infusion. Recipe: 1 tbsp. pour the ash into a bucket of water and mix. Application: pour this solution over each bush - 0.5 liters of mixture under 1 bush. Apply 1 time during flowering and fruiting of plants.
- Garlic tincture... Chop the head of garlic and pour 1 liter of warm water. Insist the remedy for a day. Then dilute with 10 liters of water and spray the tomato bushes thoroughly. Apply once a week.
- Milk serum... Well suited as a preventive measure. Recipe: Add 20 drops of iodine to 1 liter of whey, and then dilute the resulting mixture with 10 liters of water. Spray the bushes with the ready-made composition 1 time a day in the evening, throughout the development of the tomatoes.
Treating infected tomato bushes is always difficult. Experienced gardeners recommend treating them with modern chemicals.
Initially, you should carefully examine the diseased bushes, remove and burn the affected areas. Then prepare the preparations. Here are the most effective ones:
- Bayleton... Recipe: dilute 1 g of the drug in 1 liter of water. Treat the bushes by spraying no more than 2 times during the entire period of tomato growth. It should be sprayed in the evening or early morning. The cost of the drug varies between 250-900 rubles.
- Quadris... Suitable for spraying greenhouse tomatoes. Preparation: dilute 40 ml of fungicide in 10 liters of water. The consumption rate in this case is 5 liters of solution per 1 hundred square meters of plantings. Re-processing should be performed at least 2 weeks later. The price of the drug starts at 400 rubles.
- Fundazol... Recipe: dilute 1 g of the substance in 300 ml of water. Then bring the resulting solution to a volume of 1 liter. Spray the bushes with the resulting mixture 2 times throughout the growing season.
The best drugs against fusarium wilt are:
Kills the infection with Trihoderma lignorum fungi and Pseudomonas fluorescens bacteria... Experienced gardeners recommend pouring ready-made solutions under the root of the bushes. Here are some recipes:
- Dilute 30 g of "Trichoderma Veride" in 15 liters of water, and pour the prepared solution 1 time over vegetating tomatoes. Pour 1 liter of the mixture under each bush.
- Dilute 20 g of "Trichodermina" with 10 liters of water, and pour 1 liter of the finished solution under each bush. Watering is done once a week.
- Dilute 1 g of Planriz in 10 liters of water. Water the tomatoes every week, starting with phase 3 of the true leaf.
It is much easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. There are several proven prevention methods that can help reduce the likelihood of dry rot on tomatoes. Let's take a closer look.
Compliance with crop rotation
Tomatoes are planted in a new place every year, while not forgetting about the basic rules of crop rotation. In the fall, you need to clean the area:
- remove tops and old weeds
- apply organic fertilizers to the soil and dig deep.
If nightshade is grown in a greenhouse, the top layer of soil is replaced annually.
In order for the soil to be suitable for growing tomatoes, several measures should be taken:
- The substrate should be rich in calcium, and its acidity should be neutral.
- Add dolomite flour or crushed chalk in an arbitrary amount to the soil, and then dig everything up thoroughly.
- Pour the ground with a solution of copper sulfate (dilute 70 g of the product in a bucket of water).
- In the middle of summer, once pour tomatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate with boric acid (dilute 1% potassium permanganate and 5 g of boric acid powder in a bucket of water).
- In autumn, add 100 g of lime to the soil for each 1 sq. m.At the same time, water the dug up earth with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Spud growing bushes with a lot of soil, and cover the space around them with a black film. Observe the temperature in the greenhouse:
Ventilate the room regularly.
Disinfection of planting material
- Dip the roots of the seedlings in a solution of an antifungal drug for a few minutes. For example, in a powder preparation "Trichodermin". Dilute the powder in the amount of 10 g in 1 liter of water, and dip the seedlings into it.
- Dry the roots slightly, and plant in the ground.
Disinfection during bush formation
The infection penetrates into the structure of the plant through the wounds left after pinching. For this reason, pinching should be done with tools treated with a 5-10% solution of ferrous sulfate or dark pink potassium permanganate, which will exclude the infection of tomatoes with dry rot. Then you should wipe them with a dry cloth.
If cases of tomato fusarium infection have already been noticed on the site, then for subsequent planting, it is recommended to choose varieties:
- Jamaica F1
- Tango F1
- Merchant F1
- Fontana F1
- Aurelius F1
- Alexa F1
- Reflex F1.
What to do with seeds and fruits of diseased plants?
Disinfect seeds before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate... Sick fruits must be ruthlessly destroyed. Fusarium is dangerous for the human body: due to the fungus, a toxic substance (vomitoxin) accumulates in tomatoes, which causes severe poisoning in humans.
Here are some tips from experienced growers to combat fusarium.
- Soil plowing... In late autumn, it is necessary to loosen the soil with a plow 20-25 cm deep. This will solve 90% of all problems. Fungi and some species of insects hibernate deep in the soil. During late plowing, the land turns over and the frost can kill all pests.
- Temperature control in greenhouses... Too hot summer is another reason that affects the deterioration of the condition of tomatoes. You can solve the problem like this - whiten the glass surfaces of greenhouses.
- Focus on the rains... If a gardener cares for his harvest, he should tirelessly spray the plantings with preparations after each rain. It is rain that is the very trigger that activates fusarium wilting. Many gardeners think: "I missed the treatment after the rain - expect trouble."
- Irrigation water treatment... Typically, summer cottages are located far outside the city, where there is no city water supply. Gardeners water tomatoes with rainwater or from natural reservoirs. Before watering, you should add Fitosporin-M to the water and keep it for 20-30 minutes.
- Regular inspection of other plantings on the site... Dry rot can attack flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs. Sick plantings are dug up and destroyed.
Fusarium is an extremely unpleasant and dangerous fungal disease. It is very difficult to fight him. It is necessary to learn how to recognize the first signs of the appearance of dry rot on the site, and as soon as possible to take appropriate measures to destroy it. Only in this way will a person be able to collect a rich and healthy crop of tomatoes.
Symptoms of tomato damage
External signs indicate the incidence of tomato bushes with fusarium wilt.
The pathogen tends to penetrate into the vessels of young seedlings through the root system. The disease develops as the plant grows. It manifests itself at the stage when the bush begins to bear fruit and the immunity of the green organism decreases.
The main signs of morbidity are yellowing of foliage, its wilting. Determine whether the plant is affected by Fusarium before the onset of the main symptomatology by cutting off the stem. Brown vessels will be visible at the cut site.
You can verify the accuracy of the diagnosis by leaving the cut stem warm and damp for several days. The appearance of a snow-white mycelium will be observed on it.
As the disease progresses in tomato bushes, the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, then those on top. In this case, the veins on the sheet plate become lighter. In damp weather, whitish bloom is noticeable on the roots of bushes that have withered. In hot climates, the disease develops more intensively.
Fusarium wilt of cabbage
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Fusarium wilt of cabbage - a very harmful disease that is more common in the southern regions. Seedlings and plants planted in the field are mainly affected, the death of which in some years can reach 20-25%. The harmfulness of this disease increases in hot dry years, which often leads to mass death of plants. The fungus affects the vascular system, penetrating the plant through the roots or through damage: it spreads through the vessels to the aerial part and significantly complicates the movement of water in the plant.
Causative agent of the disease - imperfect mushroom Fusarium oxysporum Schl. f. conglutinans Bilai
Symptoms and life cycle of the pathogen.
The main signs of the disease are yellowing of the leaves and their loss of turgor. Chlorosis begins between the veins of the lower leaves, later they fade. The leaf blade develops unevenly due to the cessation of the growth of the chlorotic part. One-sided lesion can be observed in the entire head of cabbage. Gradually, diseased leaves fall off; in case of severe damage, only a small naked head of cabbage remains. On the cross section of the stem or leaf stalks, a ring of brown-brown vessels is visible. The symptoms of the disease then spread up the plant.
One-sided yellowing of the leaves is often observed. In the absence of protection measures, plants die prematurely. In appearance, the manifestation of fusarium is similar to the symptoms of keela or vascular bacteriosis of cabbage.
The causative agent of the disease is the imperfect fungus Fusarium oxysporum Schl. f. conglutinans Bilai, forming macro- and microconidia on the air mycelium. Macroconidia are cylindrical, fusiform-sickle-shaped, the upper and lower cells gradually and evenly narrowed. Most of them have 3, less often 5 partitions. The size of the conidia is 28-34X3.2-3.7 microns. Microconidia (6-15X2-3.6) are predominantly unicellular, sometimes with 1 septum. The fungus forms 1-2-cell uncolored, rounded (3.5-7 microns in diameter) chlamydospores, which can persist in the soil for up to 11 years. Infection of plants occurs through the cells of the epidermis of the root cap. Through the vessels, the mycelium spreads to the stem and leaves, settling along the walls of the vessels in the intercellular spaces and entering the cavity of the cells. The hyphae in the vessels are thick (5-6 microns), and in the intercellular spaces and in the cells are thin (1.3-3 microns).
Distribution and harmfulness. The disease is widespread. In some years, the harmfulness can reach 20-25%.
Source of infection... Infected soil and diseased testes, in which the fungus persists mainly as chlamydospores.
Factors contributing to the development of the disease
- The development of the disease in the first half of the growing season is still facilitated by hot dry weather. The optimum soil temperature for plant infection is 15-17 C.
- According to foreign researchers, the development of the disease increases with a lack of potassium in the soil.
- Destruction of plant residues.
- Growing resistant varieties of cabbage
- Application of fungicides.
Methods for treating cabbage from fusarium wilt.
In the fight against fusarium wilting of cabbage, the biological fungicide Fitosporin-M has proven itself well. In addition to effective protection against the pathogen, itosporin-M possesses powerful anti-stress, growth-accelerating, immunostimulating properties, which is important for climatic, chemical, pesticidal and other stresses and for increasing the productivity of agricultural crops and reducing reinfection.
- Agricultural phytopathology.
- Atlas on the protection of crops from disease.
- Protecting vegetables and potatoes from disease.
Fusarium wilt of tomatoes: treatment. Tomato processing, disease protection:
Gardeners who grow tomatoes for a long time in one place in a greenhouse or in a vegetable garden sooner or later encounter the fact that one day their seedlings wither, although the soil under it is moist.
In fact, this is a tomato disease - fusarium wilting. Spots on the leaves of tomatoes are its symptoms. This disease manifests itself during the formation of fruits and leads to their death.
What causes fusarium wilting and how to prevent it? Is the fight against fusarium effective?
The nature of the disease
Fusarium is a fungal disease. A fungus called fusarium oxisporum penetrates into the young plant and begins to inhabit it. The spore of the fungus grows more and more. They not only fill the entire space around, but also release substances that are harmful to the plant. Gradually, these waste products of the fungus clog the vessels through which juice and nutrients move.
Fusarium wilting affects not only the vascular system, but also the roots, leaves, stem, and fruits. A plant can become infected with fusarium at any time. And it reaches its greatest development during the period of formation and ripening of fruits. At this time, the plant is weakened, because it spends all its strength on their development.
Where do mushrooms get inside a tomato?
They live in the ground and are found almost everywhere. Especially a lot of them are collected in places where nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) have been growing for many years. This happens when grown in greenhouses, if the land does not change from year to year.
The wounds that the plant receives during pinching can serve as a source of penetration of pathogenic fungi into the plant's body. They secrete waste products, from which the tissues of the tomato are dehydrated, and they wither. Gradually, the roots of the plant die off, and it disappears.
But maybe if the tomatoes are not pinned, then they will not become infected? Fusarium plants find other ways of penetration. And the thickening of unsaturated plants only contributes to their rapid reproduction.
The spores of the fungus remain in the ground for several years. In the cold season, they are at rest, but they always find food for themselves. For this, dried or rotted plant remains are suitable for mushrooms.
When the air temperature rises above 20 degrees, the fungus wakes up and begins to multiply. It is especially active at high humidity. This process is facilitated by a large amount of fertilizers containing nitrogen.
You can get Fusarium tomato and through the seeds of infected plants.
They are transmitted by planting seedlings, weeding and contact with contaminated garden tools.
Factors contributing to defeat
- Failure to comply with crop rotation.
- Thickened fit.
- High temperature and humidity during the day, cold at night.
- Using too much chemical fertilizer, especially chlorine.
- The bed is located in places of occurrence of groundwater.
- Location of the site in an industrial area.
- Short day.
- Poor watering and drying of the root system.
- Insufficient lighting.
Signs of illness
The leaves change their natural color to yellow-green (become chlorotic) and wither. The veins on them brighten. The leaves of tomatoes are curled. The petioles change shape. After a while, the leaves fall off. The vessels at the bottom of the plant turn brown on the cut. A brown fungal coating forms on the root collar.
Then the signs of the disease rise to the upper tiers of the plant. The upper shoots, trunk, fruits, roots wither and dry up. In the rainy season, they are covered with a white bloom. The plant dies. And the reason is the fusarium wilt of tomatoes.
It is better not to treat a plant with fusarium disease. It is necessary to uproot it as quickly as possible. But do not throw it out in the garden, do not use it for composting.
Indeed, in this way you will transfer the fungus to favorable conditions, where it will have a lot of food, and then spread it with compost throughout the garden. Diseased plants need to be burned. Together with it, the fungi that caused the fusarium wilt of tomatoes will also die. Treatment for this disease is ineffective.
Usually, at first, several such plants are found in the garden. If they are removed in time, the disease may not spread to the remaining tomatoes.
The problem is that signs of damage become noticeable already in the middle stage of the lesion, during flowering and fruit formation.
Usually gardeners manage to get a high yield of tomatoes. To do this, they have developed a whole range of measures to prevent infection with various diseases, one of which is the fusarium wilt of tomatoes. Control measures are prevention.
- Do not leave dry plants for the winter.
- On the site, you need to dig deep into the soil.
- Before sowing, pickle seeds with fungicides or warm them up, and sow them in warm soil.
- You can not collect seeds of diseased tomatoes for growing seedlings.
- Only healthy plants should be planted.
- The temperature during germination of seeds and receiving seedlings should be kept within the range from 14 to 27 degrees.
- Remove stepchildren not with your hands, but with a knife or pruner.
- It is advisable to disinfect the instrument with alcohol or potassium permanganate after this operation.
- Spud tomatoes periodically to a height of 15 cm.
- Mulching with black film inhibits pathogenic fungi.
Preventive measures in greenhouses
Sometimes gardeners explain the infection of tomatoes by the fact that in the open field they are more susceptible to various negative factors. But when grown in a greenhouse, no less problems await them. The effect of low temperatures disappears, but the problem of crop rotation, air stagnation and high humidity appears.
Therefore, the owners of greenhouses need to follow some rules to get a high yield of tomatoes:
- When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, the soil in a greenhouse should be changed as often as possible, preferably once a year.
- The air temperature during the day should be in the range from 22 to 24 degrees, at night not lower than 16 and not higher than 18 degrees.
- Humidity should be no higher than 65 percent.
- Do not water the beds too abundantly.
- In the heat, the glass of the greenhouse is painted over with chalk.
- Tomatoes are planted in the same place only after three to four years, or they change the soil every year.
- A tomato greenhouse is not placed in the place where potatoes grew a couple of years before. They have common diseases.
- Before planting, the soil is disinfected with copper sulfate, diluting 70 g of it in a bucket of water.
- By adding chalk or dolomite flour to the soil, they reduce the risk of fusarium disease. The fungus-causative agent of this disease does not like neutral soils with a sufficient amount of calcium.
- In summer, in order to prevent fusarium wilt of tomatoes, treatment and prevention is carried out with a solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of boric acid. Each plant is poured under the root with such an amount of solution that can well wet the roots and the ground around it. Such an operation can stop the fusarium wilt of tomatoes for a long time.
- Treatment with folk remedies involves shedding lime after harvesting in the fall, adding 100 g per square meter. After processing, close up the remains of lime with a rake.
- In the fall, the site is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Mixing ash with powdered sulfur, dust the soil.
The introduction of "Trichodermin" when sowing and planting seedlings will help prevent fusarium wilting of tomatoes.
Treating other tomato diseases can help prevent fusarium disease.
After the appearance of the first fruits, tomatoes are no longer fertilized with nitrogen preparations, replacing them with potash.
Liquid fertilizer "Effekton-O" is used not only to accelerate growth, but also to prevent fusarium.
Tomato processing products
After each rain, the plants are treated with drugs to prevent fusarium wilting. Especially if the air temperature is high. Such conditions cause increased growth of the fungus, which causes tomato fusarium wilting.
Treatment of plants in the early stages of infection or prophylactic treatment is carried out by various means. One of them is the biological drug Trichodermin. It should be used at air temperatures above 17 degrees and humidity ranging from 65 to 70 percent.
Then the action of "Trichodermina" is enhanced. It has a positive effect on the soil. Seeds and plants are processed.
In addition to it, from biological drugs used "Baktofit", "Fitosporin", "Previkur", "Fundazol" - chemical agents for the fight and prevention of fusarium.
What can be confused with fusarium
Tomatoes wither with improper watering. If the soil under the bush is dry, moisten it and mulch the trunk circle. You need to water the young seedlings a little every day. Seedlings planted in a permanent place are moistened after a few days. Adult tomatoes should be watered abundantly, but not often. Water for irrigation is taken settled and warm.
Signs slightly similar to fusarium are observed when plants are overheated. The leaves of tomatoes curl, turn yellow, plants stop growing, leaves, buds fall off.
If the temperature rises to 38 degrees, the leaves begin to fall off. But black spots on the leaves of tomatoes are not observed.
If the plants are in the greenhouse, they are shaded, the air movement is arranged in the greenhouse, but not in the lower part of it.
Tomatoes are less likely to be affected by fusarium wilting if the garden on which they grow is well-groomed. Therefore, you need to monitor the condition of the soil, remove weeds, and use healthy seeds of resistant varieties.
Fungicides for the treatment of tomato diseases
|Drug name||The disease against which the treatment is carried out||Consumption rate of the drug (kg / ha, l / ha)||Packaging|
|Acrobat MC, century (dimethomorph, 90 g / kg + mancozeb, 600 g / kg)||Late blight, Alternaria and other types of spotting||2 kg / ha||1 kg|
|Areva Gold, V.G. (dimethomorph, 90 g / kg + mancozeb, 600 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria||1.8-2 kg / ha||1 kg, 5 kg|
|Benelus, Ph.D. (tebuconazole, 125 g / l + cyprodynil, 187.5 g / l)||Cladosporium, anthracnose, gray and white rot, powdery mildew||0.8-1.6 l / ha||1 L|
|Blue Bordeaux, v.d. (copper sulfate, 770 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria, gray and white rot, anthracnose, bacterial diseases, powdery mildew||2.5-6.25 kg / ha||50 g, 20 kg|
|Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate-100 g + slaked lime-150 g)||Late blight, macrospariosis, anthracnose, ascochitis, olive spot, brown rot, tomato bacterial cancer||Watering with 1% solution at the rate of 0.1 l of working fluid per 1 sq.||300 g|
|Garth, S.p. (copper hydroxide, 770 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria, bacterial spotting||2.5-3 kg / ha||30 g, 60 g, 2 kg|
|Zakhist, S.p. (cymoxanil 250 g / kg + metalaxyl 100 g / kg)||Late blight and other spots||0.75-2 kg / ha||1 kg|
|Green shield (Copper oxychloride), s.p. (copper oxychloride, 861 g / kg)||Late blight, macrosporiosis, brown spot||40 g / 10 l of water, 10 l of working solution per 1 hundred square meters||40 g|
|Cabrio Duo, C.E. (pyraclostrobin, 40 g / l + dimethomorph, 72 g / l)||Late blight, alternaria||2.5 l / ha||1 L|
|Camelot, C.E. (miclobutanil 250 g / l)||Powdery mildew, Alternaria||0.15-0.2 l / ha 0.3-0.5 l / ha||10 ml, 60 ml, 500 ml, 1 l, 5 l|
|Quadris 250 SC, c.s. (azoxystrobin, 250 g / l)||Late blight, brown spot, alternaria, white rot, anthracnose, powdery mildew||0.6 l / ha||1 L|
|Colt, S.p. (dimethomorph, 90 g / kg + mancozeb, 600 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria||2 kg / ha||20 g, 1 kg|
|Cosside 2000, century (copper hydroxide, 350 g / kg)||Late blight, macrosporiosis, septoria, alternaria||2-2.5 kg / ha||5 Kg|
|Kuproksat, c.s. (copper sulfate trisasic, 345 g / l)||Late blight, macrosporiosis||3-5 l / ha||25 l|
|Kurzat M, century (cymoxanil, 45 g / kg + mancozeb, 680 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria||2-2.5 kg / ha||1 kg|
|Custody, c.s. (tebuconazole, 200 g / l + azoxystrobin, 120 g / l)||Late blight, alternaria, brown spot, septoria||0.8-1 l / ha||1 l, 5 l|
|Luna Experience, Ph.D. (tebuconazole 200 g / l + fluopyram 200 g / l)||Powdery mildew, Alternaria, stemphilium and other spots||0.35-0.75 l / ha||1 l|
|Magnicur Energy (Previkur Energy 840), c. (propamocarb hydrochloride, 530 g / l + aluminum fosetyl, 310 g / l)||Root rot, black leg, corking of roots||Watering with the drug after sowing, at a rate of 3 ml / 2 l of solution / m2. After 7-10 days, re-watering, at a rate of 3 ml / 2 l of solution / m2.||1 l, 5 l|
|Medyan Extra 350, c.s. (copper chloroxide, 350 g / l)||Macrosporiasis, late blight, brown spot||2-2.5 l / ha||20 ml, 1 l, 5 l|
|Metaxil, S.p. (mancozeb, 640 g / kg + metalaxyl, 80 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria, septoria||2.5 kg / ha||25 g, 1 kg|
|Nando 500, c.s. (fluazinam, 500 g / l)||Late blight, alternaria||0.3-0.4 l / ha||5 l|
|Orvego, Ph.D. (ametoctradine, 300 g / l + dimethomorph, 225 g / l)||Late blight, alternaria||0.8-1 l / ha||1 L|
|Ordan, s.p. (cymoxanil, 42 g / kg + copper chloroxide, 689 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria||2.5-3 kg / ha||1 kg|
|Penkoceb, s.p. (mancozeb, 800 g / kg)||Late blight, macrosporiosis and alternaria||1.2-1.6 kg / ha||20 g, 1 kg, 25 kg|
|Revus 250, c.s. (mandipropamide, 250 g / l)||Late blight||0.5-0.6 l / ha||5 l|
|Revus Top 500, c.s. (mandipropamide, 250 g / l + difenoconazole, 250 g / l)||Late blight, alternaria, septoria||6 ml per 5 l |
drive per hundred square meters or 0.6 l / ha
|Ridomil Gold 68, century (metalaxil-M, 40 g / kg + mancozeb, 640 g / kg)||Alternaria, late blight, septoria, stemphilium||2.5 kg / ha||25 g, 50 g, 250 g, 1 kg|
|Rinkotseb, s.p. (metalaxyl 80 g / kg + mancozeb 640 g / kg)||Alternaria, late blight||2.5 kg / ha||1 kg|
|Somersault, c.s. (thiophanate methyl, 500 g / l)||Fusarium and verticillary wilting, anthracnose, powdery mildew, gray and white rot||15 ml for 5 liters of water for 1 are||30 ml|
|Switch, century (cyprodanil, 375 g / kg + fludioxonil, 250 g / kg)||Alternaria, anthracnose, fusarium, verticillosis, sclerotinosis, wet and gray rot, powdery mildew||0.75-1.0 l / ha||10 g, 100 g, 1 kg|
|Rock, c.s. (pyrimethanil, 400 g / l)||Gray rot||2 l / ha||3 l|
|Skor, c.e. (difenoconazole, 250 g / l)||Alternaria, cercosporosis, anthracnose, powdery mildew, gray and white rot||0.3-0.5 l / ha||2 ml, 100 ml, 1 l|
|Scooter, century (sulfur 800 g / kg)||Powdery mildew||30-50 g per 10 liters of water per 2 hundred parts||40 g, 200 g|
|Stark, Ph.D. (250 g / l azoxystrobin)||Late blight, alternaria, brown spot||6 ml for 5 liters of water for 1 are||6 ml, 20 ml, 100 ml|
|Stroby, V.G. (kresoxim-methyl, 500 g / kg)||Powdery mildew, phomosis, gray spot, gray and white rot, anthracnose||0.2 kg / ha||200 g|
|Thanos, V.G. (cymoxanil, 250 g / kg + famoxadone, 250 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria, septoria||0.5-0.6 kg / ha||400 g, 2 kg|
|Tiovit Jet, century g. (sulfur, 800 g / kg)||Powdery mildew, gray and white rot, anthracnose||2-3 kg / ha||40 g, 20 kg|
|Fundazol, S.p. (benomyl, 500 g / kg)||Spot, powdery mildew, phomosis, septoria, fusarium and verticillary wilting||10 g / 10 l||10 g, 200 g|
|Tsilitel, s.p. (mancozeb, 640 g / kg + metalaxyl, 80 g / c)||Downy mildew, alternaria, late blight||25-30 g per 5 liters of water per 1 hundred square meters||25 g, 50 g, 250 g, 1 kg|
|Charivnyk, s.p. (metalaxyl 75 g / kg + mancozeb 525 g / kg + dimethomorph 115 g / kg)||Late blight, alternaria||15-20 gr / weave||20 g, 40 g, 200 g, 1 kg|
|Champion, S.p. (copper hydroxide, 770 g / kg)||Late blight, macrosporiosis, alternaria, sclerotinosis, gray rot, anthracnose, powdery mildew||2-3.5 kg / ha||10 Kg|
|Energodar, r.k. (propamocarb hydrochloride, 530 g / l + aluminum fosetyl, 310 g / l)||Root rot, downy mildew, late blight, corking of roots||3 ml per 2 liters of water per square meter (watering after sowing or planting seedlings) 2.5-3.0 l / ha (watering through drip irrigation or spraying)||30 ml, 500 ml|
|Uniform, s.e. (azoxystrobin, 322 g / l + metalaxyl-M, 124 g / l)||Complex of root diseases (fusarium, pytium, rhizoctonia, etc.)||0.4-0.9 l / ha||1 l|
If you adhere to the technology of growing tomato and plant resistant varieties and hybrids, you will not find these diseases in your field or in a greenhouse.
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