Fatsia: caring for a Japanese beauty at home
Living in the bosom of nature is a pipe dream of many townspeople. Indoor plants will help to get closer to its implementation, they create an aura of natural freshness. Moreover, the green corner in the apartment can be a semblance of not only the tropics, but also our Central Russian forests. For example, fatsia (or Japanese aralia) will remind you of a chestnut or maple grove. Its large patterned leaves are very similar to the greenery of their favorite trees. To make them green for a long time, you need to know the basics of caring for fatsia at home.
Fatsia origin, appearance and care features
Fatsia is a native of the Asian southeast. This plant, which in nature reaches 5 meters in height, is common in Japan, Korea, Taiwan and New Zealand. In its natural environment, Fatsia is accustomed to warm and humid summers, cool, but frost-free, dry winters. She tolerates significant daily changes well.
Fatsia is a popular landscape plant in countries with warm climates.
The plant is used for landscape gardening in regions with a subtropical climate. In Russia, fatsia is grown in the open field on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and in the Crimea.
In Japan, fatsia is traditionally planted near houses on the north side. There is a belief that the plant protects the inhabitants of the dwelling from the evil spirits of the north.
How Aralia became Fatsia: the difficulties of classification
Until the middle of the 19th century, no one knew the plant with the name Fatsia. The evergreen tree, brought to Europe from Japan, won the sympathy of flower growers under the name Japanese Aralia. The plumose, large, glossy leaves and the relatively undemanding nature of the new plant were liked by many.
Fatsia became a popular houseplant almost 200 years ago.
Japanese aralia began to be grown at home, using mainly for landscaping shaded areas. However, botanists who studied the representatives of the large plant family Aralievs, in 1854, decided to single out a separate genus with the name Fatsia. It included only three types. Fatsia differ from other Araliaceae in the special structure of the leaf and inflorescence, and most importantly, in that they are evergreen, and not deciduous plants.
A new genus of Araliaceae was identified by French botanists Joseph Decken and Jules Planchon. They formed the name of the plant from the old Japanese word fatsi, which means the number 8. Thus, scientists noted the number of leaf blades. However, their number may vary. The young leaf is not divided into shares at all.
The number of leaf blades of fatsia changes with age, but there are no more than 9 of them
Japanese aralia at home
Fatsia has been grown in indoor floriculture for over 200 years. However, the plant, popular in the 19th century, has now given way to more exotic tropical flowers. Although Fatsia has many advantages. Unlike the Tropicans, she is able to put up with a lack of light, she does not need high humidity all year round, she grows quickly, and the lush foliage is very spectacular and is not inferior in beauty to other plants.
Fatsia is often called the Japanese chestnut for the similarity of its leaves.
It is generally accepted that Fatsia is easy to clean. This plant is generally very hardy and adapts to any conditions, writes florist guru Dr. Hession. He advises giving the flower fresh air, coolness and diffused light, then there will be no problems. However, he notes that there are some difficulties in growing fatsia. According to Russian amateur flower growers, this plant is not as simple as it seems at first glance. It is especially difficult to adapt to watering, Fatsia almost equally does not accept either drought or overflow. But fans of chestnut greens find an approach to the oriental plant and have already learned to overcome difficulties. The most important thing, they admit, is regular and attentive care.
Russians often call Fatsia home, or Japanese chestnut. Its crown, in fact, resembles a chestnut one, only it grows much faster and retains its greenery all year round.
Indoor fatsia does not usually grow above 2 meters
In home keeping, fatsia rarely grows above 2 meters. Over the years, the straight stem is covered with bark. If the plant is not helped, it branches weakly. Fatsia has a fluffy crown, consisting of large leaves (up to 35 cm) of the original shape. They are located on long petioles. At first, the rounded sheet is solid, over time it is divided into blade parts with a pointed end, there can be from 5 to 9. The texture of the sheet plate is dense, glossy. The base form is deep green in color; there are variegated varieties with contrasting spots and edges. Openwork foliage is the main decoration of fatsia.
The flowering of the plant is not very bright, but the umbrella inflorescences are interesting in their own way.
Flowers at home are rare and not very decorative. They are white or greenish, collected in umbrella inflorescences. When pollinated, blue-black berries are tied, but the seeds of fatsia do not always ripen completely.
Fatsia fruits vaguely resemble chokeberry
Fatsia juice is slightly toxic. It can cause an allergic reaction in people with sensitive skin. Therefore, when transplanting and forming a plant, you should wear gloves, and then wash your hands thoroughly.
The colorful forms of fatsia look very elegant, but more whimsical.
Japanese Fatsia, its hybrids and varieties
In indoor floriculture, only one type of fatsia is cultivated - Japanese aralia, as well as its hybrid with ivy and various varieties.
- Fatsia (Japanese aralia or Siebold) is a basic plant for other forms. In room conditions, it grows up to 1.4 meters. A fast-growing shrub with large, chestnut-like, monochromatic and shiny leaves. The plant is more hardy than variegated varieties.
- Moseri is a compact fatsia, no more than half a meter tall. The petioles are shorter, due to this, a bush with a dense crown is formed. Leaves are dark green, glossy, characteristic shape.
- Fatsia of the Spider's Web variety has large leaves of an unusual bluish-green color. They are decorated with silvery white spots along the veins.
- Fatsia Tsumugi Shibori is similar to Spider's Web. But in this variety, the spots are larger and there are more of them, so that the white color predominates over the green.
- Fatsia Variegata is a plant with green foliage, trimmed along the edges with an uneven cream or white stripe.
- Fatsia Annelise is a bright variety. Leaves with white veins, covered with golden yellowish and light green stains.
- Murakumo Nishiki is a fatsia with leaves that seem to be ready for autumn, a pattern of light yellow in green with a lemon tint.
- Aureimarginatis is a Fatsia variety with green leaf blades framed by a gold-colored border.
- Argenteimarginatis is a variegated indoor chestnut variety. They are green in the center and decorated with a silvery-white stripe along the edge.
Varieties of indoor flower in the photo
Fatsia + ivy = fatshedera
Fatskhedera is a hybrid of Japanese fatsia and hedera (common ivy). The plant appeared at the beginning of the 20th century by accidental crossing in a greenhouse in Nantes (France). This is an evergreen vigorous (up to 3 meters) shrub. Shiny leaves are smaller, no more than 18 cm. The plant is very unpretentious, it can be a bush or curl on a support. Another difference from fatsia is the number of leaf blades. The fatshedera has 5 of them, and the leaf looks more like a maple leaf, while the fatsia has at least 7.
The hybrid of fatsia and ivy retained the lobed leaves of the mother plant, but there are no more than five lobes.
Lovers of experimentation can create an original design plant by combining two original species - fatsia and ivy, as well as a hybrid - fatshedera. They all lend themselves well to vaccination.
- Take an adult fatsia at least 70 cm tall.
- Cut the stem with a sharp, sterile knife at a level of 40–45 cm from the ground and split it.
- Insert the apical stalk of the Fatsheder into the cleft, fix it with special tape, masking tape, plaster.
- Wait for the plants to completely grow together and new growth appears on the fasheder.
- Cut off the fatshedera shoot, split it and plant 3-4 ivy stalks.
- As a result, you will get a plant with a straight stem and large leaves of fatsia, in the middle part there will be smaller fatsheders, and the top will be crowned with a cascade of drooping ivy branches.
Video: acquaintance with Japanese fatsia, the basics of plant care
Conditions for fatsia: how to properly care for her (table)
Fatsia and florariums
Plants that are demanding to the conditions of keeping can be grown in a home greenhouse - a florarium. There it is easy to create a humid atmosphere and a microclimate with a constant temperature. Compact Moseri fatsia bushes are suitable for open florarium. This can be a transparent container, for example, an aquarium. But next to it, flowers with the same needs must be placed so that there are no difficulties in leaving.
Fatsia grows too quickly, so it is inconvenient to grow it in florariums.
Large specimens of fatsia cannot be placed in a small aquarium garden. For them, the so-called green showcase or window will be more appropriate. The transparent aviary, filled with green inhabitants, looks very original and decorative. But such a structure is not easy to make. You will need equipment for watering, ventilation, lighting and bottom heating. AND it will not be very comfortable in a green showcase of a rapidly growing fatsia, it needs a lot of space for development. It is much easier to provide the plant with the necessary conditions in the wild.
Transplant: soil, drainage and pot
Fatsia for the active growth of beautiful leaves requires a nutritious and at the same time loose and porous, slightly acidic or neutral soil. Potting mix options:
- universal primer with the addition of coconut fiber and vermiculite;
- 2 shares of sod land, one share of sand, peat and humus land;
- equal amounts of leafy soil, high-moor peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half of perlite or coarse sand.
A pot for a young plant that has not yet gained weight is easy to choose. Almost any will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new container should be 3-4 cm larger than the old one. Opt for a tall rather than a wide pot. This will make it more convenient to place the drainage layer, which should occupy about a third of the height. A ceramic container, especially for tall fatsia, will be better than a plastic one. It is heavier, and a flower with a massive crown will not topple over.
It is better to grow tall fatsias in ceramic containers, they will not allow the flower to tip over
Young fatsies need a pot change every year. They quickly gain green mass, therefore they grow out of the old container. With age, the transplant, or more correctly, the transshipment, is performed at the request of the plant, when its roots are cramped. The earth ball is not destroyed, keeping it entirely from the bottom and removing a little soil from the top.
We transplant fatsia
- Sterilize the potting soil, drainage and pot before planting.
- Fill the bottom of the pot with a drainage layer (about 1/3 of the volume) (large expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, vermiculite).
- Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to scatter the earthen ball.
- Examine the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
- Place the earthen lump in a new container in the center. Place the support next to it if necessary.
- Fill in new soil carefully and compact it lightly.
- Water the plant, put it in a permanent place, spray.
- A transplant for fatsia is stressful and the humid air helps to adapt.
- If you are planting young plants, you can place several bushes in one pot. This will make the flower more decorative.
Fatsia transplant becomes more and more difficult every year. Therefore, sometimes only the top layer (5–6 cm) of the soil in the pot is changed. Humus or other nutrient components must be added to the new soil for nutrition.
From the store
When choosing fatsia in the store, pay attention to the condition of the leaves. They, as an indicator, reflect the health of the plant. Leaves pointing down, hanging, indicate that the plant is unhealthy, it is not properly looked after. Returning them to their normal horizontal or elevated position will be difficult or impossible. Therefore, refuse to buy such a plant. Check fatsia for pests.
These fatsias are healthy, their leaves are cheerfully raised
Florists recommend buying small specimens of fatsias. They will cost less. And the flower will grow quickly.
At home, let the Fatsia settle down, keep it in quarantine. And after 2-3 weeks, transplant into a suitable pot and soil. During transplanting, inspect the roots, cut off the unusable ones and try to remove the old soil as much as possible.
How to help a flower grow properly: support for a homemade chestnut
In nature, Fatsia dispenses with support. But at home, the plant often needs support. A rather thin stem is not always able to hold a weighty crown. The flower grower must take care of the support in advance, otherwise the plant will be bent, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to correct the situation. Fatsia shoots are not elastic. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.
A tall plant needs reliable support, it is better to install it in a pot in advance.
Support for fatsia can be bamboo sticks or coconut-wrapped posts, which can be found in flower shops. Or make a do-it-yourself support structure. The most important thing is that it does not interfere with the growth of leaves and is stable.
Video: transplant of Japanese aralia
All About Home Fatsia Care
Fatsia is both hardy and demanding to care for. She will tolerate some problems with lighting and temperature, and is ready to tolerate dry air. But watering must be extremely careful, without excessive dryness and waterlogging, otherwise the plant will not restore the leaves or completely die.
Fatsia does not like either dry or flooded soil
For fatsia, the purity of the leaves is also important. This procedure not only gives beauty to its crown, but heals it. Clean leaves provide the plant with respiration and nutrition, and prevent the appearance of pests. Wipe the Fatsia foliage regularly with a damp cloth, and they usually do not need polishing, they have a natural gloss.
About watering and feeding
Large leaves of fatsia evaporate a lot of moisture and grow actively from spring to autumn. At this time, the plant requires drinking a lot and often. If you forget about watering and dry out the soil in the pot just once, the foliage will sink sadly. And after you pour the fatsia, she will no longer have enough strength to pick them up. We'll have to help the plant: tie the leaves on a support so that they are horizontal.
This fatsia clearly suffers from a watering deficit.
But due to waterlogging of the soil, Fatsia suffers no less. This usually happens in winter, when the plant reduces its water consumption, and the grower continues to pour it. Undigested moisture leads to rot, leaf plates lose their elasticity, wither, turn yellow and die.
So keep a reasonable balance when watering, keeping in mind the life cycle of the fatsia. In the warm season - more, in the cold - less. Water with soft water, only after checking the condition of the soil, remove excess from the pan.
During growth, feed the fatsia with mineral complexes so that the plant does not deplete. Any liquid fertilizer for decorative leaf flowers will do. Apply them with irrigation water 2-3 times a month.
Fatsia is grown for its patterned and vibrant foliage.Blooming is an added bonus for the diligent grower. In indoor conditions, inflorescences appear infrequently. By the way, there is an opinion that they should be removed in an embryonic state so that the plant does not waste energy. But no particular harm from flowers was noticed. And the lace tassels still give some charm.
Blooming fatsia looks pretty
Fatsia throws out peduncles at the tops of the shoots, then spherical clusters of inflorescences appear, consisting of small flowers, white or yellow-greenish. If you do not remove them, after successful pollination, the fatsia will reward you with dark blue fruits.
About the dormant period
Fatsia, like most plants, prefers to take a break in winter. With the arrival of cold weather, it slows down all life processes. It consumes moisture and food very sparingly, new growth hardly appears. This means that feeding should be stopped, and watering should be significantly reduced. However, the soil should not be overdried.
The flower grower should take into account that the Japanese beauty prefers to rest at low temperatures. Ideally, + 15-17 degrees is enough for it, but for variegated forms at least +16, for green ones up to +10. If the wintering is cool, you should not spray the plant. If the temperature is higher than recommended, it is necessary to humidify the foliage and air.
Variegated varieties of fatsia need a slightly warmer wintering
At rest, especially when combined with high fever, fatsia welcomes an abundance of light. It can be placed closer to the window or artificial light sources can be installed nearby. Incandescent lamps will not be useful, they only heat the air. You will need fluorescent, LED backlighting or special phytolamps.
About the formation
Fatsia reluctantly branches itself, if you do not touch it, it will grow in the form of a stem with long petioles and large leaves. Over time, the lower ones will inevitably age and die off, and the trunk will become bare. You will get a crown on top, like a palm tree.
In order for the crown of the Fatsia to be lush, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots from the plant
But if you regularly carry out the formation, pinching the tops of the shoots, lateral buds will begin to develop. They will give new twigs, and the fatsia will become a fluffy bush. Pinching is done throughout the year. On the eve of the spring awakening, you can perform sanitary pruning, remove weak shoots that have lost their decorative effect.
Also, for large leaves of variegated coloring, it is popular with flower growers ktenant. You can learn how to care for this plant from the material: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/ktenanta-kak-uxazhivat-za-krasavicej-iz-brazilii-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html
About care errors (table): why leaves wither or turn yellow, do not bloom and other problems
Video: about some care mistakes
Diseases, pests, preventive measures and methods of treatment (table)
You can get new fatsias vegetatively and by seeds. There are two vegetative ways: apical cuttings and layering.
Cuttings of fatsia are carried out before spring awakening, it can be combined with pruning, or in summer.
- Cut the tops of the shoots with 2-3 buds.
- Dip the slices into a stimulant solution (epin, zircon).
- Prepare a sandy-peat substrate, pour it into a greenhouse or cups, moisten it.
Rooting requires poor and light soil.
- Bury the cuttings in the substrate.
- Cover the greenhouse with a lid, cups in bags.
- Place in a warm (+ 23–26) and bright place.
- Moisturize and ventilate periodically.
Air and moisten the cuttings
- Cuttings usually root quickly.
- After rooting, transplant the young plants into pots with nutritious soil.
This method is suitable if the plant is too elongated, and its stem is bare.
- In the spring, make a circular cut in the trunk.
- Wrap the place in wet moss, you can soak it with a stimulant, and cover it with plastic wrap or put on a glass on top.
- Keep the moss moist.
- After 4–6 weeks, roots form at the incision site.
- Let them grow stronger, after a month and a half, cut the trunk just below the new roots.
- Plant the plant in a suitable pot.
- Cut off the remaining trunk and cover with damp moss.
- Water it so the side shoots begin to grow.
Fatsia seeds, with some effort, can be obtained at home. But most often they give low germination, because they do not ripen to the end. You can purchase seed at the store. Just keep in mind that fatsia seeds have a short shelf life. And it is difficult to grow this plant from seedlings.
- Start the sowing campaign in March. Prepare a potting medium with equal parts of leafy soil and sand.
- Check the quality of the seeds before planting. Throw them into the water. Those that have surfaced are not suitable for sowing. Plant only those that have sunk to the bottom.
- Embed the seeds 0.5 cm deep into a damp substrate.
- Cover the greenhouse, put it in a warm (+25) place.
- When 2-3 young leaves appear, plant the seedlings in pots (5-7 cm in diameter).
- Over the summer, transfer them two or three times to larger pots and nutrient soil.
Video: reproduction of fatsia by cuttings
Reviews about growing fatsia
Fatsia fits perfectly into any interior. Its patterned and delicate leaves will remind you of summer landscapes in cold winter. It is growing rapidly and is relatively undemanding to conditions. But this plant is suitable only for attentive flower growers who are ready to pay attention to their pets. Fatsia leaves will quickly indicate care errors. And if it is constantly tested for strength, the bright crown will no longer recover. With careful and sensible care, Fatsia will live happily ever after.
I am a philologist by education. My hobbies are reading, traveling, caring for my garden and pets. Therefore, much of what I am writing about is not theory at all, but a practice I have gone through personally.
Rate the article:
(7 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
Share with your friends!
Aucuba home care
The simplest and therefore the most common way of reproduction of the Japanese aucuba is with the help of cuttings. However, for amateur gardeners there is another method - seed reproduction, which can be obtained from your own pet.
Aukuba has beneficial properties due to which it is used in traditional medicine in Japan.
Japanese aucuba is a dioecious plant. This means that its flowers are heterosexual. On one plant there are only males (stamens), on the other - only females (pistils). Accordingly, to obtain seeds at home, the plant must be artificially pollinated. Then, when the fruits are ripe, you can pick them and take out the finished seeds.
Sow seeds in a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1 ratio). The soil must be well moistened. For cultivation, room temperature is sufficient (not lower than 21 ° C). If the house is cold, it is better to provide additional heating with a lamp.
Seedlings do not appear immediately - it will take several weeks, for an aucuba this is quite normal. As soon as 3 leaves are born, the seedlings should be dived. At first, they are not watered, but simply lightly sprayed on the leaves and make sure that the topsoil is moderately moist.
Japanese aucuba - dioecious plant
Propagation by cuttings is best done at the very end of winter. A stalk is selected with at least 4 adult leaves. They are rooted in a mixture of drainage sand and peat, which are taken in the same amount by weight.
The transplant of established cuttings takes place in a month. In the first stages, the soil in the pot must be well fed with humus or fertilizer for indoor flowers.
Reproduction by cuttings is a very simple method, and at the same time it has its advantage over propagation by seeds - some characteristics of the parents may not be transmitted from the seed due to the redistribution of genetic material. But in the case of growing branches, an exact clone of the original flower is obtained.
Reproduction of laurel is possible by seeds, as well as vegetatively - by cuttings and layering.
Seeds at home
Therefore, the seed should be as fresh as possible, and to see the germinated seeds, you should be patient. Laurel is sown in January-February. To accelerate germination, the seeds are treated with a solution of a growth stimulator, and then planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm in a moist light soil.
Cover with plastic wrap, keep at 18 degrees, regularly ventilate and maintain the moisture content of the substrate.
As soon as germination begins, the shell of the seeds cracks and then they can be immediately planted in separate containers, placing them in the ground at a depth of five centimeters - but you will need to wait about a month for seedlings.
IMPORTANT: young "bay leaves" must be protected from heat and excess sunlight.
In the open field
Ripening of laurel fruits occurs in October-November. Once harvested, the seeds are released and scattered over a permanent area, at a depth of about 5 cm. Shoots, usually appear from late spring to late summer, at a temperature of + 20-22 ° C.
When planting laurel with seeds, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 5-8 cm between individual plants. Sometimes there are shoots in January, which, for the most part, die.
Propagation by cuttings
The best time for harvesting and rooting of laurel cuttings in room culture is March-April or June-July
ATTENTION: in an open area, cuttings are carried out only in June-July.
Cuttings with three internodes (usually 6-8 cm long) are cut from the middle and lower parts of semi-lignified shoots.
The bottom sheet is removed, the rest are shortened by half and the prepared cuttings are sent for rooting.
At 16-20 degrees, they are buried 1-1.5 cm into the moistened sand. Cover with plastic wrap, ventilate, spray.
Rooted cuttings begin to grow, as a rule, after a month, and when they grow by 2-3 cm, they are seated in separate containers.
Reproduction by layering
Usually, laurel gives lateral processes with a more or less developed root system, which are carefully separated and planted. Sprinkle the injured areas with crushed charcoal.
Thus, when growing laurel, you can focus on the following calendars of main works:
Spring. March-April - sanitary pruning: removal of damaged and frost-bitten branches. Rooting cuttings in a cold greenhouse.
- Summer. The whole period is the germination of seeds sown in autumn. Regular feeding
June-July - propagation by cuttings
August - formative pruning
- Fall. October-November: pruning, harvesting deciduous raw materials, harvesting fruits, sowing seeds
- Spring. March - sowing seeds.
March-April - propagation by cuttings, separation of lateral processes.
- Summer. The entire period is the germination of seeds sown in February-April. Regular feeding. June-July - propagation by cuttings. August - formative pruning
- Fall. October-November: pruning, harvesting of deciduous raw materials. Rare feeding.
- Winter. February - sowing seeds
Diseases and pests
Plants can infect pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases.
- Bacterial diseases
- bacterial spot - small watery spots that appear on the leaf blade. Occurs at high humidity and temperature
- red border - a brown-red border is formed on the lower leaves.
- Fungal diseases
- stem and root rot. A white fluffy mycelium forms on the affected area.
- Viral diseases
- young leaves grow deformed, a chlorotic pattern may form on them.
In case of diseases, it is recommended to cut off the damaged areas, treat the plant with special preparations according to the instructions. In some cases, including with severe damage to the bush, the only solution is to destroy the plant.
Most often, the philodendron can be attacked by such pests:
- scale - brown tubercles form on the leaves and stems. They are washed off with a sponge dipped in soapy water or treated with an insecticide
- spider mite - a thin cobweb can be seen on the plant. Treat the flowerpot with soapy water or insecticide solution
- aphids - green, gray or black insects can be seen on the philodendron. Treat the plant with soapy water or insecticide solution
- thrips - small black insects are visible on the flowerpot, a sticky coating appears. Treat with soapy water or insecticide solution.
Philodendron is appreciated by flower growers not only for its unpretentiousness, but also for its decorative properties. It does not cause much trouble, and the appearance of the flowerpot cheers you up. Grow this plant, it will bring light, beauty and comfort to your apartment.