How to Make a Good Snow Shovel: Making Guide
Country estates, covered with a layer of white fluffy snow, are a truly fabulous picture that you can admire for hours sitting by the window with a cup of tea. But sometimes you have to go outside, but not for aesthetic reflections, but in order to clean up snow deposits from garden paths and a car park. A snow shovel will help to stretch your muscles and clear the area - a primitive tool, but very useful.
Step-by-step technology for making a shovel
Purchased products are good: durable, beautiful, lightweight. But why not make your own snow shovel? Almost all the tools and materials can be found right at the dacha, and the work will take only 2-3 hours. As a result, we save time and money, but most importantly - satisfaction from our own work.
A comparative overview of snow plowing equipment may also be helpful: https://diz-cafe.com/tech/uborka-territorii-ot-snega.html
The advantages of a wooden shovel on the face: it is light compared to a metal one, rather durable, and most importantly, it is suitable for self-production
Step I - Preparatory phase
The base will be a regular piece of plywood. Its dimensions may differ: if the shovel is intended for an adult - a square of 50x50 cm is suitable, for a children's tool 30x30 cm is enough.The plywood element is fixed on a piece of board cut from a workpiece, the length of which is equal to the width of the shovel (50 cm or 30 cm, respectively) ... A rail or a thin long bar (about 2 m) is required for the handle.
In addition to the basic materials, you will need a thin metal plate and fasteners - ordinary nails. As you can see, these are all the simplest items that anyone can find in the household. Special tools are also not needed, you need a file (jigsaw), a plane, sandpaper, a hammer, pliers.
The place of work depends on the weather. On a good day, you can sit right on the street, setting up a carpenter's table near the house. Any outbuilding will do in bad weather.
Step II - Making the end piece
We take an unprocessed piece of board and saw off the part necessary for the manufacture of the so-called end - the basis for fastening the plywood sheet. We plan the workpiece from all sides with a plane so that it becomes smooth. With a pencil, we draw the contours of the future part - we draw an arc on one side, the second remains straight. Middle width - 8 cm, edges - 5 cm.
Measure seven times, cut once - this proverb comes in handy. For accurate calculations, you must use a ruler, square and pencil.
We remove the excess wood and get the finished end.
For wood processing, along with hand tools, you can also use electric ones: the efficiency of work increases, and the quality becomes better.
Step III - Processing the cuttings
You should first determine what shape the handle of the product will be, since both round and rectangular cuttings can be found in snow shovels. We will make a handle with a rectangular cross-section, but for convenience we will round the edges a little.
For a start, we cut out a two-meter segment about 4.5 cm wide from a suitable length of edged board or lath.Make sure that the wood does not contain knots - these are critical, weak points that will break at the first load. It is not scary if there is a slight bevel along the entire length (discrepancy in width) - this does not affect the strength and convenience of the cutting.
If the shovel is attached to the handle at the right angle, it will be easier to work. To remove snow with such a tool, much less effort is required.
If there is a bark on the side, remove it, then shave off the workpiece, leaving but slightly rounding the edges. Finally, sand the stalk, giving it smoothness. There should be no untreated parts, as they can injure your hands.
Step IV - Sawing the opening
To secure the stalk firmly in the end part, it is necessary to cut out the opening. It is located exactly in the center of the part, and the kerf width corresponds to the width (or diameter) of the handle. It will turn out more accurately if you cut the opening with a jigsaw, and then use a chisel.
The depth of the opening from different sides should be different: 4 cm and 4.5 cm. Half a centimeter goes to the bevel, which ensures the perfect fit of the cutting. The angle of inclination of the scoop part completely depends on this bevel, it can be different - it depends on the height of the person and the manner of his work with the shovel. The half-centimeter difference is very convenient for most people, so you can stop there.
Wood is a soft and pliable material, so you need to work with it with care. One inaccurate movement - and the workpiece will become defective
Next, you should outline the line along which you need to cut the stalk. A square is useful for this. We carefully cut off the unnecessary length, while watching the angle of the cut - the bevel on the handle should coincide with the opening. We connect the two parts, checking the work.
Step V - Assembling the Shovel
All parts are ready, you can start assembling the snow shovel. A piece of plywood is nailed to the end part. Only three nails are required: one is nailed down in the middle, two at the edges.
Before joining the plywood and the end part, find the middle of both parts and drive the first nail right in the center, and then the other two along the edges.
There is one trick you can use to keep the plywood from splitting. We bite off the sharp parts of the nails, and their blunt end will not push the plywood fibers apart, but will simply tear them apart.
All parts of the product must fit snugly together, otherwise snow will fall into the gaps and crevices. Dampness will quickly spoil the wood
We take a tape measure and calculate the place where the handle is attached to the plywood. We mark the places of hammering nails on the back of the scoop part, and then nail the handle to the plywood. This is a crucial moment, since inaccurate markings threaten with cuttings deviations. It is difficult to work with such a tool - the snow shovel will constantly tilt to one side.
Step VI - Upholstery with metal strips
To give strength to the shovel, it is necessary to strengthen it with metal strips. Galvanized iron left over from roof repairs is ideal. In its absence, ordinary canned food cans will do.
Tin cans for work can always be found in the country refrigerator or cellar. You will need metal scissors to cut the can into strips.
To make the bottom edge, we cut off a tape with a length slightly longer than the width of the shovel - 55-60 cm. Width - 6 cm. Bend the cut piece in half lengthwise and get an edge that needs to be put on the scoop part from below and secured. To make the metal fit snugly against the plywood, it is adjusted with a few hammer blows.
Work gloves should be worn when handling metal strips to prevent injury, tarpaulin or garden gloves are also suitable
We bend the pieces of metal protruding from the sides, then fix the edge with three nails. Nails should pierce the plywood through, bend the excess parts. Similarly, we upholster the end part with a metal strip. Then we fasten the handle in the central part of the plywood with self-tapping screws, and reinforce the joint on the back side with a small piece of metal.
In the process of working with self-tapping screws, it is advisable to use an electric drill. The work will go much faster, and the holes for the screws will preserve the integrity of the wood
The shovel is ready, and there will be no more questions about how to make a spare shovel or how to make a small shovel for a child.
Store a wooden shovel in a warm room, but away from heating appliances - a veranda or corridor will do. Stored properly, the tool will last more than 5 seasons
If the dacha is viewed as a resting place and there are difficulties with materials and tools, then you can purchase a ready-made shovel in the store. There are many options for products - metal, plastic, wood.
For large areas, electric snow blowers are suitable: their performance is higher, but a power source is required.
A snow blower can also be made by hand. Read about it: https://diz-cafe.com/tech/kak-sdelat-snegouborshhik.html
To clear the path to the gate, a small shovel made of durable plastic is enough - it will last for many years.
Plastic and aluminum shovels are valued for their light weight - which is important when clearing snow, which itself is heavy. The cost of plastic shovels - from 850 to 1500 rubles
Wooden shovels are chosen by creative people who independently modify them - they give a beautiful look. The canvas of the product can be painted with paints - you get an exclusive model in the folk style.
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A few decades ago, there were only two types of metal blades in the farmer's assortment: a scoop and a bayonet.
The cuttings were not very diverse:
- a long
- broken off.
In recent decades, the range has expanded significantly, new types of shovels have appeared. The tool is selected according to several criteria. The main one is the type of soil on the site.
For loose and light soil with a large proportion of sand, a shovel is suitable, in which the blade has a rectangular, slightly rounded shape.
Attention! The effectiveness of the scoop is to lift a large amount of soil with the blade.
To work on heavy, hard loam, you will need a tool with a blade that has a sharp edge. The previous option is not suitable, since it is difficult to stick it into the ground. It is dangerous to use it in this case and for health - there is a strong load on the spine, back. A bayonet shovel is needed here.
Attention! Among the modern universal tools from the 3-in-1 category is the hand-held hiller. With its help, tubers are planted, further processing is carried out and the harvest is dug.
What to make a shovel from?
Before making a snow shovel, you should decide on the material for the job.
Most often, such devices are created from:
- Plastic... Plastic products are characterized by lightness and convenience, so they are used very often. It is quite easy to make such a scraper for cleaning snow with your own hands. To do this, you can buy a ready-made scoop in the store and combine it with a handle.
- Iron or zinc... The advantage of these materials is their strength. But metal products are heavy, which makes them difficult to use. In large areas, it is inconvenient to use such devices.
- Aluminum... The aluminum snow shovel is durable and lightweight. Therefore, such products are very popular. They are also often made at home.
- Wood... It is a strong and durable material. Subject to the manufacturing technology, the wooden shovel will serve for a long time.
Shovel Guitar - The Uproar
Have you ever walked into your garage and looked at a shovel and said, "I'm going to turn this bad guy into a guitar?" If not, then you are sane. However, in this article, I will explain how you can build a guitar with a shovel for about $ 30 with YouTube knowledge, scrapbook, trial and error.
I first went to Pittsburgh Guitars in Southside and spoke to the wonderful staff about my idea. They cheered me on, drew me a bad guy's wiring diagram, sold me a Danelectro pickup, volume knob and output jack, and wished me luck so I didn't get hurt by an electric shock.
Then I headed to Lowes, stopped an employee and asked, "Where can I find screws to install a guitar pickup and a shovel to make a guitar?" He gave me a rather curious look and then told me where to find them. I now had everything I needed for my project.
I put the shovel on my 200-pound steel-framed work table and got to work. I grabbed my palm with a sander and sanded down the shaft of the shovel to create the neck of the guitar. I then carried it to my belt sander with 40 grit coarse sandpaper and sanded the steel head until it was flush with the neck. Then I realized, "Oh, guitars aren't four feet long." Accordingly, I sawed off about a foot and a half of the wooden handle.
Then I used a belt sander to shape the guitar plate where the tuners would be placed. I drilled two holes in the wood and installed the tuners, but then I took another look at them and decided that two strings were very bad. So I drilled another hole about two inches from the neck and installed another tuner.
After securing the tuners in place, I sawed out a straight line and used a file to set the nut to the head. For the walnut, I found a tiny piece of wood scraps, shaped and shaped it, then I moved on to the guitar body or shovel head.
I used titanium drills to drill two holes in the center of the steel where the bridge will go. I found a nice piece of oak in my yard, which I used a belt sander to turn into a bridge. I then drilled two holes in the oak and used wing nut screws to attach the piece to the steel, making sure the bark stays on the piece to give the shovel more character.
Going through the wood waste again, I found a nice rectangular piece perfect for the cartridge holder. I drilled four holes in it - two to screw it into the bridge and two to screw the cartridge to the wood. I screwed everything into place and then took a much needed break to eat pasta.
After the food coma, I resumed my work, taking the golf club and marking with a pencil the straight lines along which the strings would run. Then I took the saw and carefully mapped out the lines to guide the strings on the bridge and nut.
At this point, I went back to the head and drilled many holes in the steel: two holes for the volume knob and output jack, a hole for the strap, three tiny holes to hold the strings in place, and one final hole to feed the pickup wiring through.
The next task was to solder the wires to the volume knob and the output jack. I don't know how to solder the wires, so I took it to a friend who did it, which I highly recommend if you want a quality guitar and not get electrocuted - both pretty beneficial benefits.
I went home, attached the strings, tuned it to open the G (G-D-G) for some blues, prayed I wouldn't get hurt by the electric shock, and plugged it in. Listen up above.
I've learned a lot along the way: steel is a pain when you don't have the proper tools, you don't use YouTube and don't do a lot of research, and if you ever need help with a project, seek the advice of a friend who builds and repairs things.