Hypoestes - planting and care at home

 Hypoestes - planting and care at home

Hypoestes is an aesthetic plant that can inspire designer collections. Its foliage is decorated with traditional and timeless patterns: rounded specks, stripes and strokes. The original coloring of hypoesthesia catches the eye. On a bright green field, neon-pink or snow-white peas, a blood-red border and a pale greenish center or a white leaf with a dark outline of greenery - this beauty directly asks for fabric. And flower growers create magnificent compositions, "painting" with hypoesthesia foliage. After all, this intricately painted flower is completely unpretentious when leaving at home and is surprisingly simple, almost like a weed, multiplies. True, fans of flowering plants will not be pleased with hypoestus. Its main treasure is leaves. But flowers can cause problems. There are several important characteristics in growing hypoesthesia.

Hypoestes: rich foliage and modest flowers

Like many other plant inhabitants of our apartments, Hypoestes is a native of humid and warm tropical forests. Its wild species originally inhabited Madagascar and southern Africa. Through human intervention, hypoesthesia has crossed the oceans and spread to the tropics of Australia and South America.

Variegated hypoestes - native to tropical Madagascar

However, not everywhere this bright plant got along with the local flora and fauna. For example, in Costa Rica, a tenacious and prolific hypoesthesia replaces plants that served as food for tropical butterflies. And its variegated leaves are not to their taste.

In English-speaking countries, the name "polka-dot plant" has been assigned to variegated hypoesthesia. This phrase is translated from English as "polka dot plant".

Plant with polka dots - this is what the English call hypoestes

Hypoestes is a branched deciduous shrub. In nature, it grows about 50-60 cm. At home, both tall and more compact forms are grown, no more than 15–20 cm. Florists appreciate hypoesthesia for the original foliage. Juicy and rather large (about 10 cm) leaves in shape resemble an elongated heart with a smooth or serrated edge. But the main thing is that they are richly colored. Patterns and color combinations are the most unusual. On a green background, pea spots of various sizes and colors can be scattered: dark burgundy, purple, pink, cream or white. The main color also has color options: purple, white, yellowish or red. There are varieties that have leaves with colored veins and edges.

Small flowers are lost against the background of variegated foliage

And the flowers of hypoesthesia are not very attractive. They are medium-sized lilac, pale purple or white, in the form of a pharynx, which hides under the bracts. Novice flower growers are sincerely happy when hypoestes suddenly blooms in the winter cold. They consider modest inflorescences a reward for their hard work. However, those familiar with hypoesthesia know that this is not a reward at all. After flowering, the plant can, having spent all its strength, go into hibernation and not wake up. Therefore, most often, hypoesthesia is not allowed to bloom.

The plant with peas, in comparison with its tropical fellow countrymen, is undemanding to home conditions. Although there are, of course, some subtleties in growing it, hypoesthesia will not require excessive care and attention from its owner. With proper care, you can admire the exotic variegation of leaves for many years. And at the same time, experiment, developing design talent.

By planting hypoesthesia of different varieties, you can create picturesque canvases

Fans of hypoesthesia put different varieties next to or planted in the same pot. This is how it is possible to create the most picturesque compositions. Hypoestes is grown as a groundcover. For example, to decorate the bare trunk of a ficus or palm tree. Miniature forms are bred in aquarium or bottle gardens. Undemanding and vivid hypoesthesia allows you to embody the most daring ideas.

Together with hypoesthesia, other plants with decorative foliage look advantageous in flower compositions: begonias, dieffenbachia, calathea, coleus. Also, bright leaves of hypoesthesia successfully set off the beauty of flowering plants. Place a phalaenopsis orchid, miniature geranium, or hydrangea nearby.

Bright hypoesthesia serves as a decoration for flower arrangements

Varieties and varieties

Hypoestes belongs to the Acanthus family. There are more than 150 species of perennial evergreen shrubs and semi-shrubs in the genus of this plant. But only two of them became the ancestors of indoor flowers. These are blood-red and leaf-spike hypoestesses. On their basis, varieties with leaves of the most bizarre color were bred.

  • Blood-red hypoestes - a native of the island of Madagascar. It is a dense shrub with ovoid and wavy leaves along the edge. The main background of the leaf plate is dark green, blood-red veins are traced on it, sometimes there are bright pink or scarlet spots. The flowers are small, pinkish, the throat is white inside.

    Hypoestes blood red

  • Spikelet hypoestes is similar to the blood-red species, but there are some differences. Its mottled leaves are colored in different shades of purple. It is hypoesthesia that is called a pea plant. This shrub has solitary pale lilac or lavender flowers.

    Leaf spike hypoestes

On the basis of two types of hypoesthetics, many varieties have been bred. Among them there are plants with entirely pink or white leaves, which are decorated with small spots, strokes or borders. The most popular are the compact varieties of the Confetti and Splash series. The height of these plants usually does not exceed 25 cm.

  • Pink (Confetti Pink) - pale pink leaves with green veins and edges.
  • White (Confetti White) - large white spots are located on a dark green field, veins and edges are greenish.
  • Red (Confetti Red) - the main background of the leaves is crimson red. Only along the veins and on the edge are green strokes.
  • Crimson (Сonfetti carmine-rose) - medium-sized pale pink "peas" are located on burgundy-green leaves.
  • Red wine (Confetti Wine Red) - rich green leaves with burgundy reflections, small spots and strokes of cyclamen color on them.
  • Pink (Pink Splash) - The main background of the leaves is blood red, decorated with pink splashes.
  • White (White Splash) - a delicate cream-colored pattern is painted on the whitish leaves.
  • Red (Splash Red) - the surface of the leaf is painted with crimson and red-green large splashes.

Types and varieties of flowers in the photo

Video: Introducing Hypoesthesia

Living conditions for hypoesthesia

Hypoestes is not the most demanding plant, but still there are conditions without which it will not live or lose its original appearance. This flower is warm and moisture-loving. But without a bright color, he will live, only boring and pale. With a shortage of light, the foliage of hypoesthesia will forever lose its exquisite color. So the best place for a flower is south, southeast or southwest. East and West directions are fine too, but you'll need to add backlighting in winter.

Table: How to make plant growing as productive as possible

SpringBright, diffused, useful a small amount of direct sunlight. They will brighten the color. It is necessary to shade from the hot midday sun.High. Spray the leaves regularly. Rinse the plant and humidify the air around in any way:
  • Place the plant on a pallet of damp pebbles or moss.
  • Use a double pot - fill the space between the walls of the inner and outer pots with peat or moss, keep it moist at all times.
  • Place a home fountain or electric humidifier next to it.
Moderate. Optimum 20-25 degrees. Avoid drafts and significant temperature changes.
FallBright, diffused. Daylight hours should last at least 12 hours, otherwise the leaves will lose their motley color and turn green. Provide artificial lighting.Moderate, slightly reduced + 18–20 degrees. Below + 17 is unacceptable. Do not place near heaters and cold window glass. Maintain an even temperature, without drops.

Useful transplant

Hypoestes is transplanted every spring. Annual transplantation, or rather transshipment (that is, relocation of a slightly larger pot), has a beneficial effect on the decorative effect of the flower. It rejuvenates and the foliage looks more vibrant.

Young hypoestes look more attractive than old ones.

Hypoesthesia will like the soil that is neutral in acidity, light, but at the same time fertile. Without nutrients, the color of the leaves will fade. Approximate soil compositions:

  • Universal soil for indoor plants, you can add soil for orchids.
  • A mixture of compost, leaf soil, peat and sand in equal proportions.
  • On two parts of leafy land, one part of humus, peat, sand.

The pot for transplanting should be taken only 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is better to choose a wide rather than a deep container with large drainage holes. The root system of hypoesthesia is located at the surface of the soil, so it does not need a deep pot. A good drainage layer is a must. You can take a larger container and plant several varieties of hypoesthesia in it at once, choosing them according to the color of the leaves.

You can place different varieties of hypoesthesia in a spacious pot to get a bright bouquet.

If everything is ready, proceed with the transplant.

  1. Prepare and sterilize the pot, soil and drainage (expanded clay, fine gravel, gravel, crumbled brick or foam).
  2. Fill the pot with a drainage layer, about 2–3 cm high.
  3. Carefully remove the plant from the old container, you can carefully divide the bush into parts to plant them.
  4. Examine the roots, if you find damage, remove them.
  5. Place the earth ball in the center of the new pot. Carefully fill in the new soil by shaking the pot lightly and tamping down the soil. Thus, fill the entire volume with soil, leaving no voids.
  6. Water the plant, put it in a permanent place, spray. The humid air will help the hypoesthesia adapt in the new pot.

How to take care of a handsome man

Caring for hypoesthesia is not difficult. You just need to take into account his tropical inclinations: love of warmth, high humidity of air and soil. And we must also remember that the variegation of the leaves must be maintained with top dressing. And do not forget about the formation of a bush.

As for the flowering of hypoesthesia, decide for yourself: do you want to risk the health of your motley-green friend for the sake of not the most expressive flowers, or would you prefer to remove the buds.

How to water and fertilize

Quite large leaves of this plant evaporate a lot of moisture. Therefore, hypoestes loves soft and slightly warm water, and abundant watering in spring and summer. It is only important to maintain balance and not flood the plant. Excess moisture can cause root rot. Water the plant during active growth, when the topsoil dries out by 1–2 cm.

Reduce watering in the fall. And in winter, wait until the soil is dry for at least two days, and only then water. And stick to the rule: the lower the air temperature, the more modest the watering.

In spring and summer, fertilize hypoesthes twice a month with mineral and organic fertilizers, alternating them. Pay attention to the composition of the mineral complexes. Potassium is most useful for plant leaves. And nitrogen negatively affects their color. In winter, hypoesthesia also needs nutrition. But at this time, feed only once a month and reduce the dosage of the nutrient solution.

To bloom or not to bloom?

The beauty of hypoesthesia is not in the flowers, but in the bizarrely colored leaves. This plant blooms more than modestly: small pinkish or white inflorescences-pharynx appear one by one or in small semi-umbrellas on the stem. In winter, of course, it's nice to see even modest flowers, but is it worth allowing hypoesthesia to bloom?

Many experienced florists recommend removing hypoesthesia buds.

Most hypoesthetics tend to think that flowering is best prevented by cutting off the buds when they first appear. The plant gives so much energy to flowering that it may die afterwards. Florists assure that faded hypoestes often passes into a dormant period, but then it does not always wake up. More often he dies.

Another side effect of flowering is that small seeds of hypoesthesia, while ripening, fly over rather considerable distances. They germinate easily, only this growth is difficult to control. Young growth is able to fill all neighboring pots with different flowers. So decide: bloom or not for your hypoesthesia?

Rest after flowering and bush formation

If you decide to allow your hypoesthesia to bloom, collect seeds in time and be sure to remove wilted inflorescences from the stem and from the pot. And when your flower has retired, try to help it, cut the stems, reduce watering and wait for young growth from the roots.

Hypoestes should be pinched regularly, as it is forced to branch

With age, the stem of hypoesthesia is exposed at the bottom. Therefore, young plants look more luxuriant and more decorative. The regular formation of the bush will help to preserve the beauty of the flower. Feel free to pinch the tops of the stems. After that, the plant branches better. If you haven't done shaping and the hypoesthesia is stretched out awkwardly, try a radical method. Cut the long stem close to the ground, continue to moisten the soil. Most likely, after a while new shoots will appear from the roots.

How Care Errors Manifest

Hypoestes is in good health. To make him sick, you need to "try". But often care errors worsen the appearance of the plant. How to restore hypoesthesia to its former beauty?

Table: Maintenance errors and their elimination

The edges of the leaves dry up.Excessively dry air.Spray hypoesthes regularly and humidify the air using all available methods.
Leaves fall.
  1. Temperature changes.
  2. Not enough watering.
  3. Low temperature.
  1. Protect hypoesthesia from drafts.
  2. Prevent the soil from drying out, especially in summer.
  3. Make sure that the temperature does not drop below +17.
The leaves began to turn yellow and lose elasticity.Excess watering.Adjust the watering mode. Wait for the topsoil to dry out.
The leaves turn pale and green, the variegated color disappears. The stems are extended.Little light.Place the plant in a lighter spot. Provide artificial lighting for fall and winter.
Brown spots appear on the leaves.Sunburn.Shade the plant at noon.
Spots on the leaves become faded, yellowness may appear.Excess nitrogen in top dressing.Change the top dressing. Fertilize with a high potassium complex.

Diseases and pests (table)

How to recognizeWho hurtsWhat to do
Brown plaques below the foliage, along the veins.The defeat of the scabbard.Remove the pest by hand. Then spray the hypoesthes with an insecticide. Carry out the processing until you completely destroy the shield.
Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. After a while, the leaves fade. On a heavily affected plant, a white spider web is visibleSpider mite infestation.Remove leaves affected by the pest. Treat the plant with a systemic insecticide, phyto-farm or derris. Spray more often. The tick does not like high humidity.
Leaves droop, wither. Shoots lose their elasticity and die.Damage to root rot caused by the fungus.Remove the plant from the soil, remove damage, treat the roots with fungicide and activated carbon. Then plant it in new soil. Prevention of rot: plant the plant in a sterilized substrate, do not overmoisten the soil.

Reproduction of hypoesthesia

Florists love Hypoestes because it actively and willingly reproduces. Sometimes, when the seeds ripen, it is even necessary to restrain its fertility. And cuttings root easily in water.

By cuttings

There are some tricks when propagating hypoesthesia by cuttings. For example, they take root better in water than in soil. How to do it correctly?

  1. In the spring, cut the cuttings 7-10 cm obliquely and place them whole in a wide container filled with water. This is necessary so that they are saturated with moisture.
  2. The next day, place the cuttings in an opaque container of water and cover with a plastic wrap or bag, creating a greenhouse.
  3. Place the greenhouse in a warm (+ 22-25 degrees) and lighted place, without direct sun. Shade the cuttings if necessary.
  4. When white thin roots appear and grow a little, plant the cuttings in small pots with a wet substrate (composition in the transplant chapter), several pieces each. Do not unravel the roots to avoid damage.
  5. After planting, pinch the top of the shoots so that the bush branches.
  6. Spray rooted cuttings, cover with foil, put in the shade or partial shade for several days.
  7. Air and moisturize regularly.
  8. When new leaves appear, remove the film and put it in a permanent place.

Hypoesthesia cuttings root quickly in water, but it is better to use an opaque container


If your hypoesthesia bloomed and got seeds (by the way, they are very small), and there were pots with other plants next to it, then you probably won't even have to arrange a sowing one. According to experienced flower growers, hypoesthes does an excellent job of sowing on its own. Its sprouts will appear in neighboring pots without your participation. And then see for yourself: save them or weed them out.

Hypoesthesia seedlings germinate amicably and quickly

But if you got a bag of seeds, start sowing in early spring.

  1. Prepare the nutrient medium (formulations in the transplant chapter) and the seedling container.
  2. Pour the substrate into a container and moisten. Spread the seeds over the surface, sprinkle a little.
  3. Cover with a transparent lid or foil, put in a warm (+ 22–25) place.
  4. Seeds germinate quickly, in 5–6 days. After the sprouts appear, remove the protection, moisten the soil regularly.
  5. Plant the grown seedlings in separate containers.
  6. When the shoots are 10-15 cm long, pinch the top to stimulate the development of lateral shoots.
  7. After 3-4 months, young hypoesthesia will get stronger, take care of them as for adult plants.

Video: How to grow hypoesthesia from seeds

Florist reviews about hypoesthesia

Hypoestes is an extremely useful plant. Scientists think so. The brightly colored leaves of this flower contain a lot of phytoncides. This means that hypoesthesia works like an air filter, destroying harmful impurities in the room where he lives. In addition, hypoesthesia does an excellent job of being a color therapist. From its variegated foliage, you can create magnificent paintings that will raise the most decadent mood. The conclusion suggests itself: if you want not to get sick and enjoy life, surround yourself at home and at work with multi-colored hypoestes.

Aglaonema flower at home, how to properly care for it

Home care for aglaonema is a minimum of care and attention with a wonderful appearance of the flower. Aglaonema home care is not difficult if you know some of the nuances that I will discuss in the article. The plant got its name from two words "aglos" and "nema", which translates from Greek as "bright thread" or shiny stamen, belongs to the aroid family. The family is extensive, more than 50 species. Native plant penates: islands of the Indian and Pacific oceans, the Philippines, forests of Southeast Asia.

How to grow a dicenter, the rules of planting and caring for a flower

Dicenter belong to the genus of herbaceous perennials and annuals from the subfamily Dymyankovye. It is widely known for its flowers that grow in the shape of a heart.

Because of its shape, the plant was named "Broken Heart Flower". The unusual shape attracts gardeners, and many are wondering how to grow a dicenter at home. This will be discussed in our article.

Dicentra: description of the plant

The genus dicenter has about 20 species. Most of them grow in Eastern China, the Far East and North America. The flower can grow up to one meter in height.

This beautiful plant has a fleshy long root, ornamental petiolus pinnately dissected green leaves and pink or red, slightly squeezed heart-shaped flowers. The size of the flowers does not exceed two centimeters. Dicentra seeds are in an elongated black box, they can remain viable for about two years.

What should be the temperature, humidity and lighting

For the comfortable development of the plant and the formation of beautiful flowers in the shape of a heart, it needs to create an appropriate microclimate.

For example, everyone loves the lighting of the dicenter, but, like any flower, it will be better in a well-lit area. In a sunny area, the plant will grow rapidly, bloom profusely, and look healthy. Also, the dicenter will not turn yellow leaves from a long exposure to the sun.

Dicentra is a fairly frost-resistant flower that does not need to be covered for the winter. She also feels good at high and low temperatures. But the optimum air temperature for the normal growth of a flower is required + 17-25 degrees Celsius.

Humidity does not play a key role for the flower. He feels very well both with high humidity, and that with normal. The flower does not need spraying.

How to plant a dicenter

Dicentra is a flower, planting and care in the open field for which will not be too much trouble.... It is customary to plant the dicenter either in late spring or early autumn. The main thing is to let it germinate and settle in the ground before the frost begins.

The flower will grow well both in an open sunny area and in a shady place. The plant is unpretentious to the soil, but if possible, it is better to plant it on light, nutritious, drained soils. The soil is prepared in advance.

If you decide to plant a dicenter in the fall, then the planting site is prepared in spring, and vice versa - when planting in the spring, prepare everything you need in the fall.

Site preparation

Having decided on the planting time, it is necessary to prepare the area on which the flower will grow. The site should be dug up, and about 5 kilograms of humus per square meter should be brought in for digging. After that, the site should be saturated with mineral fertilizer. It is diluted in an amount of 20 grams per 10 liters of water.

Bush planting scheme

Planting the dicenter begins with the preparation of holes with a depth and diameter of about 40 centimeters. The distance between the pits should be at least 50 centimeters.

At the bottom of the hole, crushed stone or broken brick should be poured, and then sprinkled with earth mixed with compost. When everything is ready, the rhizome of the seedling is placed in the hole and filled to the top with earth and compost.

Important! If a site with heavy soil needs to be added to the soil of limestone chips, for this plant "broken heart" will only be grateful.

Dicenter care

Although the dicentra is an unpretentious plant that blooms in almost any conditions, it still needs special conditions.

Features of irrigation dicentra

On hot summer days, when the weather is especially dry, the flower needs a lot of water. If the roots of the dicenter do not receive the required amount of moisture, the plant will quickly wither and die.

Focus on the dryness of the soil near the rhizome, if it is dry, it's time to water the plant.

It is important to take care not to overdo it with water, because due to abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, which also leads to the death of the plant.

Important! You need to try to water the dicenter so that the water penetrates as deep as possible into the soil and moistens the root system.

Fertilization and feeding

Dicentra is a plant, planting and caring for which simply cannot do without top dressing. To prevent flowering from becoming worse from year to year, you need to feed the plant with superphosphate and fertilize the roots with humus. This is especially necessary in the spring, when the plant begins to develop after winter frosts.

When the flower begins to bloom, it is important to feed the dicentra bushes with fertilizers high in nitrogen, this will prolong the flowering time. In the summer, it will not be superfluous to feed the flower with nitrogen fertilizers or mullein infusion.

With the onset of autumn, each bush must be fertilized with humus and well watered with manure infusion. Correctly selected timely fertilizers will allow you to grow a beautiful bush.

Pruning the dicenter

If you want to admire a strong and flowering plant, then it is vital to produce pruning of the dicenter for winter. This will allow her to gain strength and sleep well.

You need to trim up to the stumps. You can remove all branches after they have faded and turned yellow. To prevent the flower from freezing, it must be covered with peat or branches of spruce branches. But since the dicentra is quite frost-resistant, in regions with moderate winters, you can not cover the stumps too much.

Reproduction of dicentra

Dicenter can be propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings and using seeds (this method is rarely used).

For grafting exclusively young shoots and roots are used, the length of which is about 12 centimeters. They are planted in slightly moist and nutritious soil to a depth of 10 centimeters. To keep moisture as long as possible, cover the soil with a film. If spring or autumn is cold, then the dicenter should be planted in a greenhouse.

After a month, you will notice the appearance of the first shoots, which means that the cuttings have taken root. The next year, already rooted cuttings can be safely transplanted to a permanent place. It is very convenient to use special peat pots for these purposes, which form a root ball and hold it during transplantation.

Without a transplant, the bleeding center can grow quietly for at least 5 years. Then the roots become larger, grow profusely and even partially die off, which is why the flowering stops.

The optimal time for reproduction of the bush by division is 4 years after planting. The division should be done before or after the active growing season, which occurs in the summer.

For division you need to carefully dig out the roots and divide them with a knife into pieces 15 centimeters long. Each separate part should have at least three strong and healthy shoots. Each part is planted in a permanent growth site. If you plant several shoots in one hole, then you can grow a lush bush.

As for the seeds, this is a laborious and complex method. Seeds must be planted in September and the ambient temperature must be kept within 19 degrees Celsius. A month later, the first shoots will appear. The resulting seedlings dive and cover for the winter. If everything is done correctly, you will see the first flowers after three years.

Diseases and pests of dicenter

The flower "broken heart", planting and caring for which is not too laborious, is also resistant to various diseases. But if conditions are unfavorable, the plant is susceptible to parasites.

For example, ring spot... It is a viral disease that most commonly affects mature plants. The characteristic differences of this sore are an annular or spotted pattern, the shade of which is lighter than the leaves themselves. Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure an infected plant. It is recommended that the affected flower be removed immediately to avoid spreading the infection.

Another virus that stains the leaves of a flower in a marbled color is called tobacco mosaic... There is also no cure.

Due to microplasma the flowers of the dicentra turn green, and because of a severe lesion, they do not appear at all. To prevent the disease from developing, it is necessary to destroy its carriers - aphids and leafhoppers. To do this, use "Biotlin", "Confidor", "Fitoverm" or "Aktara".

Colossal harm bear... They gnaw at the roots of the flower, and it withers. To get rid of the bear, you need to use chemicals like Medvetox or plant phytoncidal plants on the territory, whose smell scares off the bear.

The use of dicenter in landscape design

Dicenter, whose cultivation delights gardeners, attracts the attention of landscape designers as well. The plant is great for both single plantings and group plantings.

It looks great against the background of decorative conifers. In natural gardens, you can often see extensive flower beds with dicenter. This flower will be appropriate both in ordinary flower beds or mixborders, and in flower beds. Dicentra looks great in tandem with tall plants.

Now you know how to plant a dicenter, how to care for it and how to deal with its pests. Pay attention to this romantic flower, which looks like two halves of a heart, as if crying with a white tear, and you will be able to admire it for a long time in your area.

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How to care for a dicenter in a garden or flower bed

For a plant to develop properly, it is necessary to provide a constant access of oxygen to the root system. Each time after moistening, the soil around must be loosened, while removing weeds.

Watering schedule

Dicenter watering is moderate, since the flower does not like waterlogging and drying out of the soil. The plant does not tolerate hard and cold water, so you first need to insist on it. Water after the soil dries slightly, but will still be slightly moistened.

During dry periods, watering is done more often, but too much water is not used. If moisture stagnation occurs, the root system will quickly rot.

How to feed the dicenter in spring, summer, autumn

In order for the dicenter to bloom profusely, it is important to fertilize it correctly and regularly. In spring, a nitrogen-containing top dressing is introduced, which contributes to the abundant growth of foliage.

In the summer, when the shrub blooms, superphosphate is used. In autumn, the plant is fertilized with organic matter, spilling mullein infusion, and then mulched with humus. The listed dressings are applied only once in each season. This is enough volume for the dicentra to be healthy and pleasing with abundant flowering.


A flowering shrub does not need strong formation. Its stems naturally bend to the ground. Large buds do not need to be tied. Dicenter pruning can be carried out to maintain a beautiful shape. It is enough to remove wilted buds in a timely manner, which will contribute to the rapid growth of new flowers.

Dicenter care in autumn and preparation for winter

It is necessary to provide the dicenter with proper care in the fall. For this, the entire ground part is cut off. Only stumps should remain no more than 5 cm in height. The plant is frost-resistant, but the shrub should overwinter under a layer of mulch, which is chosen as peat. The thickness is made at the level of 7 cm. If you pour a more voluminous layer, then the shelter will turn out to be too warm, and the roots will begin to rot.

Description of popular species

Despite the fact that many types of Ripsalis are capable of growing exclusively in natural, natural conditions, some are quite well adapted for growing in indoor floriculture conditions.

Ripsalis cassuta

This species is a hanging succulent plant with rather long and soft shoots. Indoor culture blooms very beautifully in the last decade of spring.
Ripsalis Kassutha (R. cassutha) is characterized by the formation of drooping, cylindrical shoots, the length of which often reaches three meters. The flowers are greenish-white or whitish-cream in color, fragrant. After flowering, red berries are formed.

Ripsalis Cereuscula

Cereuscula Rhipsalis (R.cereuscula) has long and thin shoots, divided into short and fleshy, strongly branching segments. Segments up to 10 cm long extend from the base of the plant, which are divided at the tops into smaller and spread apart parts. In winter, medium-sized, white flowers with a slight pinkish tint are formed. The petals are narrow, pointed at the ends. Flowering is quite rare in indoor floriculture conditions.

Ripsalis mix

This species is especially often cultivated at home. Indoor unpretentious perennial has thin, articulated, hanging stem parts, due to which a very interesting and highly decorative effect is created. The flowering of the mix species is rarely observed,
small and inconspicuous whitish flowers.

Other varieties

Some other types of indoor ripsalis are often grown by domestic amateur flower growers:

  • Barchela
    (R burchellii) with primary stems 60 cm long and terminal stems up to 60-70 mm long with an average diameter of a couple of millimeters
  • hairy
    (R. capilliformis) is a well-known ampelous ornamental plant, which has soft and thin branching stems and small, whitish flowers
  • Gobeliana
    (R.goebeliana) has rounded and flattened stem primary segments, as well as terminal segments up to 30 mm wide
  • curly
    (R.crispata) - bushy plant with wide leaf-like stem segments no more than 10-11 cm long
  • Lindbergh
    (R.lindbergiana) - has long and drooping shoots, which are represented by long primary and short secondary segments
  • mesembryanthemoid
    (R.mesembryanthemoides) - indoor perennial, resembling spruce branches in appearance with rounded secondary segments
  • rounded
    (R.teres) - belongs to the category of strongly branching perennials with cylindrical erect and hanging shoots and small, yellowish flowers
  • prismatic
    (R.prismatica) - a branching species with a strong cylindrical stem with multifaceted shoots and whitish unattractive flowers
  • barren
    (R.cassutha) - characterized by the presence of thin, segmented, hanging type of shoots and small, not too attractive flowers.

General description of the plant

Home Buttock - Strawberries and strawberries in your home.

My name is Zoya Pavlovna, I am 52 years old. The cottage is small - only 6 acres. But the harvest is enough. Still, help, saving the family budget.

Hypoestes belongs to exotic vegetation, is a native of the tropics and belongs to the acanthus family.

Initially, it grew in the territories of Madagascar and southern Africa.

Later, under anthropogenic influence, hypoesthesia appeared in the natural environment of South America and Australia.

In Britain and the United States, many people call hypoestes - polka-dot-plant, which literally means "polka dot plant".

Interesting! Undoubtedly, during relocation, this plant did not benefit everywhere, for example, on the territory of Costa Rica, its appearance largely supplanted the local vegetation, which served as the main source of food for certain species of insects.

By its own structure, hypoesthesia refers to shrubs and in the natural environment can reach a height of 50-60 cm.

In the case of indoor growing, it is possible to grow not only full-size options, but also dwarf ones - no more than 15-20 cm.

Landscaping, so prized by hypoesthesia, is represented by heart-shaped leaf plates.

Their size, even in low-growing variants, can reach 10 cm in length.

The following colors can be combined in the color of the leaf plates:

  • white
  • pink
  • purple
  • burgundy
  • cream
  • yellow
  • red.

Moreover, the order can be very diverse. In some plant species, there may be a pronounced colored line along the edge of the leaf or veins.

The flowering of hypoesthesia is of no decorative interest, since their appearance, compared to landscaping, is completely nondescript. Often they are lilac in color and hide under the bracts.

Most often, hypoesthesia is grown in groups of different varieties, which are placed in one or more pots.

Also, it is not uncommon to plant shrubs under other exotics to hide the appearance of the trunk.

Interesting! Miniature forms of hypoesthesia are quite common among lovers of aquarium and bottle gardens, since the plant itself is undemanding and has a separate appeal even in a reduced version.

Transfer to a permanent place

To grow a lemon from a cutting at home, you need to properly care for it at every stage of development. A year after planting, when the seedling gets stronger, it is transplanted into a larger pot. A volume of 0.5-0.6 liters will be sufficient. The diameter of the pot should be 8-10 cm at the top edge. A stalk that has already begun should not be transplanted into a large tub immediately. The plant in it will develop poorly and may die.

A seedling obtained by propagation by a cuttings is transplanted carefully, trying not to damage the roots. They carefully pry it off and take it out together with an earthen lump. The root collar is not buried. The soil in the pot is greatly moistened, the plant is shaded for 10 days, then moved to a bright place.

Lemon loves frequent light watering and feeding. The main substances required for lemon development are phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium. He also needs sulfur, manganese, calcium, boron, copper. Correctly selected fertilizers contribute to the timely entry of the plant into fruiting. The first time a lemon tree is fertilized 1.5 months after transplanting. From now on, it will need to be fed during periods of intense growth. To do this, use:

  • fermented slurry, supplemented with superphosphate, 50 g per 10 liters of water
  • wood ash - 1 tbsp. l. for 1 liter of water
  • 0.5% ammonium nitrate solution
  • 10 Day Weed Infusion
  • aquarium water

In flower shops special liquid concentrates are sold for fertilizing citrus crops. The leaders among them are Kemira, Citrus Mix, Master.

A lemon tree grown by propagation by shoots should begin to flower and bear fruit after 3 years. If this started earlier, it is recommended to pick off the flowers so that the plant does not consume nutrients for premature flowering. As the root system grows, the seedling will need to be replanted. A young plant is transplanted 1-2 times a year, an adult - once every 3 years.

At the age of 1 year, at the end of winter, a seedling grown from a twig is cut for the first time. Lateral shoots are formed on the annual stem, no more than 4 should be left when pruning. In the future, the plant will need to be periodically subjected to formative pruning, this is necessary for the health of the tree and full fruiting.